Mmm, I don't know that many fan controllers are going to be able to handle a pump. Possibly the Sunbeam Extreme and some of the Lamptron ones that support 30W per channel.
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Mmm, I don't know that many fan controllers are going to be able to handle a pump. Possibly the Sunbeam Extreme and some of the Lamptron ones that support 30W per channel.
I run a pump off the Bitwpower no problem
Your using a D4 or a D5? I think I will probably be upgrading my D5 to a speed control version when I get ready to add in the GPU when the GTX 300s, as I seem to be noticing it a bit more now. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
Using a D4 - they're known for being notoriously noisy. I knew this when I bought it, but I certainly wasn't expecting this... Sorting out a video now for my log...Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Those of you suggesting alternative fan controllers - have a look at my build log (link in sig) to see why I unfortunately can't use them.
Yes a lot of people have said the thicker/fatter O rings seal the BP fittings...no I do not remember what size...I SORT of remember somebody posting it was a #2 for what that's worth.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
Brian tells me he has just added a German reseller so there will be a shipment headed that way in about a month. It also looks like I will be shipping some Murder Mods parts to Germany here in a while so worst case I can stuff 10 feet of tube in there lol. Where there is the will...and a little patience...Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
Yup, the noise is pretty much why the D4 has gone the way of the Dodo for water coolers. Make SURE you have all the air out as that magnifys the noise issue a LOT.Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
#9 o-ring is what you want :)
Home Depot stocks Danco brand...not sure about Lowes....both should have them in/near the plumbing section, might be hard to find though depending on the store. Should be a box of 10 for ~$2 though :up:
I saw saw folks talking about the LED mounting to light up the res, I found that inserting them from the back into the side holes where the screws hold the res to the case is the best place for them. It lights it up perfectly if you use the bottom ones. As far as the pump goes, I believe it is cheaper to buy the res and pump separately and getting the variable one is a must. I run mine between 3 and 1 and that keeps it pretty quiet.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
Hmm, so i presume #9 is the size? Will have to see what we have over here in AUS :)
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9404/reservoirs001.jpg
I rate it M for Mod-it :D
Nooo CD, don't do it!! :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid
i would rather see a certain wannabe texans head on thereQuote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid
I need advice from the T3 flow experts.
I just added an Enzotech WMST-81NP mosfet block to my system, and figure I should probably split some of the stuff I have on my loop onto the other inlet/outlet of the T3.
My system now consists of:
Feser 360 rad
Swiftech Apogee GTZ
Swiftech MCW30
Enzotech WMST-81NP
D-Tek FuZion GFX 2
D5 var and T3
Supposedly the Enzotech WMST-81NP is pretty restrictive for a mosfet block, so I was originally gonna just put that by itself on one loop. But I was thinking that the Apogee GTZ + MCW30 + D-Tek FuZion GFX 2 has to be more restrictive then just the Enzotech block, so i was thinking of moving the rad to the other loop to kinda even things out.
But, I am not sure about everything, and just kinda guesstimating based on things I've read in the past.
So my thoughts are:
Loop 1 = Feser 360 rad + Enzotech WMST-81NP
Loop 2 = Apogee GTZ + MCW30 + D-Tek FuZion GFX 2
So what do you experts think, how would you set everything up?
IMO, either put the GTZ on its own subloop or GTZ + Feser :)
Agreed, and in that order.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
He is posting that to motivate me into getting off my arse and getting him some pump backs into the mail...it's working too :DQuote:
Originally Posted by CyberDruid
How goes your dive into the world of 3D modeling Warren?
I was busy getting 10 top port T3's off to Modders Mart and 25 each of PEC's and 8 ports...should be preselling this weekend if they are not already gone.
The 10 polished face plates went in like an hour so I may polish up 5 of the silver and 5 of the black if there are any left for Brian to ship to me after the week end.
Y'all are now up to speed. :)
Oops, almost forgot. The new single bay SFF style reservoir production sample arrived this week--it's stunning (IMHO anyway). The metal compression fitting samples are machining early next week...cross your fingers. I am down to one or two more prototypes of the new D5 pump top and then it will go into production--also pretty awesome I think. Also have the DDC full conversion (including lower case) just about where I want it so it will likely release at about the same time the D5 does.
I drew up a dual in dual out CPU block (micro channel) and the preliminary testing is pretty positive. I don't see it as a mainstream block obviously, but I think there might be SOME guys that would run them if the performance is there...leverage some of the extra flow rates the T3 offers up in parallel loop mode. The look is very minimal (think Murder Box and the less is more convention). I guess anyone that might be interested sound off...I wouldn't mind doing a short run of 50 or something.
NOW your up to speed.
.....and still waiting that res with fillpot ahhhhhhhhhhhh
would like to get that faceplate but without the res .......... ahhhhhhhhhhh
I got my black T3 faceplate today; it looks great with my lian li :D
Now I just need to put my pc back together, pc parts are taking over my kitchen... well actually my whole apartment lol
I just changed my loops around with the addition of EK chipset blocks. I feel fairly comfortable but would like an opinion.
Loop 1 - mcr320, mosfet, mosfet, heatkiller cu, TIII
Loop 2 - 120.3, n.bridge s.bridge block, mcw60, mcw60, TIII
Temps all look good with a 10c delta amvient to water.
Thanks
Where are the Murder Mods parts going? Will they be for sale somewhere?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
If you are offering to ship me some tubing I will take you up on it. There's no hurry. Patience I've got in this regard.
Sounds like my faceplate just arrived at the parent's i will get it tomorrow. :D
The vario pump really is a must for the T3. I got the fixed speed and it is getting a bit nosiy mounted up there in the bays. I will probably be upgrading to one when the GTX 300s make it to market. :yepp:
The VARIO pump is great, I can run it at setting 2 with no temp differences.
I ordered one of the faceplates to the UK but the shipping costs were scary!
I did not know that the T3 was released with the bonding strip removed.
BOXGODS what other mods do you have in planning for the T3?
Anyone know where to get these with quick and cheap shipping to Australia? I need one but Jab-Tech (Whom have everything else I need) won't be getting them for about 2-3 weeks!
yupii!!!! just got one of this res with fillport
it ships to 17th sept
the shipping cost is very scary to spain "WTH"
hope that one day there will be a oficial seller here from spain
I am not sure where they will be selling...I know SOME of it is going to Germany. Beyond that you need to pop over to Murdermods.com and see whats up.Quote:
Originally Posted by century child
OK, I will try to remember to have them add some black tubing for you when the new reseller gets their first shipment.
PICTURES!Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Because Spain is on a continent Far Far away...:)Quote:
Originally Posted by strike
that´s true jajajajaja so far from spain
any advice? for the loop?
striker II formula
8800 GTX SLI
swiftech MCR220
Thermochill 120.3
GTZ
EK Fullcover 8800 GTX
EK-NB S-MAX ACETAL
EK-SB STRIKER 2 FORMULA ACETAL
Feser tube 1/2ID 3/8 OD Blue
Distilled water with Silver coils
MCP 655
Typhoon III
all will be inside on antec 1200
That may be true, but ordering from the PC website to Australia I also noticed that shipping was far, far more expensive than it usually is for ordering from the USA. I normally pay somewhere between USD $30 and $40, but the cheapest option available was USD $60 - for less than two weeks shipping time I would have been charged USD $100.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Since Geno asked. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
http://i621.photobucket.com/albums/t...9/P1000278.jpg
The faceplate really does set the T3 off. It looks really good and for those of you wondering, it is a 1 sec install. The six pieces of foam tape were already applied, just peel and stick. :up:
You will have to slide it back into the bay a little. I will probably redrill the holes when I get ready to do the next upgrade. Great addition G, keep up the good work. :yepp: :)
There is an order shipping out to Australia tomorrow (Monday the 14th).Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
No idea on shipping costs. I was making a sort of joke because my nephew Markus is a Missionary on assignment in Spain and his emails are sent "From a land Far Far away"...think of it as a shout out. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by SoulsCollective
+1 points towards pimpness :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
If I get some time this coming weekend, plan to head over to Micro Center and get these and point them right at the res. The rest of the case will be lit with white LEDs. I hope that it will set it off that much more. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
The T3 picks up light really nicely - I'm not really into bling but light leaking from my fan controller gives it a nice subtle blue glow.. I'll try and show some pics when I get a chance...Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
I'm going to wire them up to a switch so I can turn all the lights off when I want. I don't like the bling lights on all the time, but are great to show off the build when friends come over. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
That would be great to see the photos. :up:
Thanks much. U da man!Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
here ya go..Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
http://www.abload.de/img/dscf16490i6v.jpg
http://www.abload.de/img/dscf1669cfbc.jpg
Here you can see where the light comes from:
http://www.abload.de/img/dscf1675iefx.jpg
Looks like i've still got some bleeding to do...
http://www.abload.de/img/dscf1658cdme.jpg
:shocked: O yea, that does look pretty sweet. I think those LEDs lights should do the trick then. :yepp:
Just got to get down to Micro Center this weekend. ;)
You need to get that black faceplate on there Karbonkid. That would look insane then. :up:
So Boxgods, you have a new block coming? And a new res? PICS please and some details. I would be interested in a new CPU block.
Here's mine:
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x.../TypoonIII.jpg
http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x...og/Parts-7.jpg
Not installed yet because I'm still working on my case. The double sided tape comes pre-applied btw.
I was meaning to take that back shot myself, but got a little overally excited to put it on that I forgot.:D
UTnorris is right about 5mm LED's fitting perfectly into the side slots BTW. No need to spend the dough on those fancy pointy ones when plain pigtailed LED's fit there perfectly...Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Yes. Its a dual inlet dual outlet design with micro Channels and a few other "old school" block tricks I pulled out of my hat. I actually had you partially in mind when I designed some of the aesthetics (followed your plating log). The new rez is aimed mostly at the SFF guys as we hardly ever get any love products wise...though it will have one feature the high performance guys will like maybe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
As for pictures...not till parts are heading out to the resellers this time--after what happened with the T3 launching late and the early bugs etc. Reservoir is done, but I have about a week till the sample for the block arrives...figure about 2-3 weeks for images. The matching D5 and DDC pump will be done about the same time so it all works out.
How cool is THAT! Man you guys take awesome pictures...I need to take a class or something.Quote:
Originally Posted by viper2004
More great pictures. See how well the rez picks up the light Millertime? Just use the side slots man :DQuote:
Originally Posted by karbonkid
Thanks Geno. ;) I fitted them up real quick and guess I only need to get the white LEDs for the case. I'll wait till I get those lights as I plan to wire them all up to one switch. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
You and me both bud. I just do my best to not completely embarrass myself. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Testing will tell you the truth!I believe!!!
any advice?
Loop order?
striker II formula
8800 GTX SLI
swiftech MCR220
Thermochill 120.3
GTZ
EK Fullcover 8800 GTX
EK-NB S-MAX ACETAL
EK-SB STRIKER 2 FORMULA ACETAL
Feser tube 1/2ID 3/8 OD Blue
Distilled water with Silver coils
MCP 655
Typhoon III
all will be inside on antec 1200
MB and CPU on 120.3 and 8800s on 220Quote:
Originally Posted by strike
okQuote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
so the order is
1 loop T3-rad 120.3-CPU -chipsets-T3
2 loop T3- rad 120.2 - 8800s - T3
and how about if i put the EK 8800s in parallel ?
I'd put the 120.3 and the CPU on subloop 1 and everything else on subloop 2. :yepp:
You can put the 8800s in parallel if you want, the performance difference is negligible at best.
hello to watercooler mate, :D. Usually i'm just lurking at here & OCN finding information for watercooling. Will start a build soon anyway. Today i'm just found a mod from T3 primochill reservoir at ppc.com, does anyone already know ??? the link isthe t3 reservoir 8 port version :d. why it has so soon after i'm already had two of the current version :D.Quote:
sorry for my bad english.....
You can't mount a pumps to those. It's just a res.Quote:
Originally Posted by levinan
thanks for the fast reply, actually looking at the pic finding the pump mount position atm :d. So it just reservoir then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Diverge
Hey! Reservoirs need luvs too :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Diverge
Just curious, what's features bout the 8 ports T3?
I think it is meant to be able to hook a couple of loops up to it and have a couple of ports to mount LEDs into for the bling.Quote:
Originally Posted by GregSG
It is just a res, so you can can feed anything you want off of it.
Does anyone have additional info on the top fillport version of the T3?
I tried looking back through the threads and see mention of it, but I couldn't find any pics of it or whatnot. Primochill's site also doesn't have any top fillport specific pics of the T3.
Is it basically another G1/4 threaded port in the top of the T3, like around the area of the inlet ports on the back of the T3?
Just seeing if anyone has a pic or can explain what it looks like and/or if you can see that top fillport from the front.
Been thinking of getting a new T3 with the top port to maybe use one of those aqua computer Tubemeters with it... Just thinking things up :)
Here it is: http://www.primochill.com/typhoon-ii...-fillport.html
It simply is a fill plug on the top of the unit very similar to the XSPC DDC 5 1/4 bay res. There were some photos posted in here somewhere, but forget what page they were on.
Thanks millertime
Yeah, the Primochill site doesn't have any pictures of the top fill port version, it's just the regular one shown.
I also tried searching this thread and around through some others, and I see lots of posts from BoxGods talking about it, but no pics unfortunately.
It's prolly a wild goose chase anyways, I just got this idea that it might be cool to run a T3 with the Tubemeter in it using the top port for that purpose since I'm probably going to have something in the bay above the T3 that doesn't take up the whole space and so could probably accommodate it.
Anyways, if anyone has a pic of it, much obliged. Thanks.
Hmmm, i know I saw a pic around here somewhere of it. Geno probably has one saved on his computer. He may be able to post it later. ;)
The T3 as only takes about about half of the bay and IIRC, the fillport was in the forward half so if there is a fan controller or something like that above it, it probably wouldn't work.
Ah, good call :up:
Looking at the regular T3 I have sitting here, I can completely see what you mean. There's no way you could put the top fillport on the rear half of the unit because it would potentially interfere with the rear ports. Not to mention that the front half is actually wider than the rear half, so it would make more sense to put it there.
Yeah, oh well, I think you're right, even with something not to big in the bay above the T3, it still wouldn't work. Oh well. Thanks!
For most people having the top fill port near the front and to one side helps because they just slide it out an inch or so for filling. That said, I make them custom anyway so if you wanted one with the fill port very near the back I can do that also. Can even put it on the bottom if needs be. The reason you could not find pictures in this and other threads is because I posted a video of it actually lol. Don't remember the post number but the port uses the same plug as the ones used on the front, but it is recessed so it fits flush.
Sorry for the delay in answering...I am in mod mode right now so it is eating a lot of my time.
I demand pics. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
He can't show you . . .although I have some ;) my lips are sealed.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
well, i will leak a pic of his mouse mod
http://67.199.7.46/_media/imgs/articles/a375_body.jpg
Hi there guys, kinda new here, at least posting (actually first post).
So been reading the post and saw those kick ass faceplates but no mention where to get 'em, (are there avaible here in the US?), got 2 reservoirs and would be a nice touch to the fron panel.
Go to PrimoChill's site: http://primochill.com/Quote:
Originally Posted by turon289
thanks, a million :up:, hopefully would be posting pics soon.
Nice work Boxgods
I like the anodizing color
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSC00692.jpg
my question is : hot to use this LED fittings?
I can put the C into B , but it it too loose.
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/v...DSC00693-1.jpg
insert LED into B, (guess you twist it a bit), then flip C over and put wire in slot on C and screw on.
There are also slots on the back of the T3 where the brass threads are located. You can place LED in there and it looks good. I test fitted one and it looked really cool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
No problem, thanks BG. I managed to go back and find the video you mentioned and that helped a lot actually. Gonna order one of those I think from Primo and see if it works out with what I was thinking about. If not I might take you up on that offer to have the extra port placed somewhere else. Have to see. Thanks again. :up:
TYQuote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/v...DSC00694-1.jpg
i think the bitspower' LED fitting easier install and low production cost.
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSC00700.jpg
http://i676.photobucket.com/albums/v...e/DSC00699.jpg
JUst a though, would the O-ring from the Typhoon compressions give a full seal on bitspower barbs?
I actually make the ones PrimoChill sells was my point. If you need the hole on top for the port in a special location then when you order a top port from PrimoChill just let them know where you want it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
The One included with the T3 is tool free. The cap top has the wrench for installing the plug into the port, then you flip it over and it holds the LED in place. The spacer A is NOT required for use in the T3 or any product with O ring captivation built in.Quote:
Originally Posted by canadiantire
Ah, gotcha. Well, I knew you were making them, just didn't realize one could specify exactly where. Thanks again, BG :) Actually, after viewing your video of the ported one, the spot where the top fill port was in that, seems pretty much fine where it is, I think, for what I want to try. Is that where it's installed by default if you order one without any special instructions on Primo's site?Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I can't remember where it was in the video....can you link to it please?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
Sure, no problemQuote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=425
http://geno.boxgods.com/MVI_0358.divx
This thread rocks!, i got almost all questions answered just by going through it.. now i know what size of O-rings to buy (ofcourse where to get them too :p:) and where to mount the LED's and how to :ROTF:
Here's my question(s):
I have HWlabs GTX 360, T3 (D5 vario), HK3.0 and DD GTX 285 v2 blcoks in SLI
1. what will be optimum loop for these components
2 . will it make a difference if i run SLI in a separate loop (since i'm using only one RAD)
HK3.0 in one subloop, everything else in the rest :)
Should get ~1.8-2GPM in both subloops :yepp:
Anybody got dimensions on this thing with D5 installed?
Also, more pics!@
complete dims and files of it in SW and Sketch UP are at PrimoChills site.
The top fill port is just about in the spot shown in the video but maybe 1/4 to 3/8" (10 to 12 mm) closer to the left side as seen from the front.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Awesome, thanks BG for confirming. :up:
Anyone?Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
I think you need a number 10 o-ring if I remember right and I do not believe the Primochill compression fittings are that size. You could always try it outside of the case to see if it would work.Quote:
Originally Posted by dingdong555
It's a number 9 o-ring you need and the ones included on the ghost compressions will definitely not work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by badboyze
Thanks vapor - based on your advice here is the loopQuote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
loop 1
T3 -> HK 3.0 -> T3
loop 2
T3 -> GTX 360 -> DD GTX 285 -> DD GTX 285 -> T3
Does that look right ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Yeah, BoxGods, thanks, but it turns out that I'm site-navigation impaired...
Where's the sketchup model? All I see is the brochure on the front page.
Anybody got a link?
I'd disagree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
I was trying to use BP fittings with the Typhoon, and was having no end of leaking issues despite tightening down the clamps with some pliers (so hard I was afraid of cracking the accy). Swapped out the O-rings on the BP fittings with the O-rings included with the Ghost compressions, and leaking problems solved.
Results are gonna vary from user to user. I had no leaks with using a normal oring, but after picking up a box of #9s at home dept, i can say there is a big difference in the sealing from using the correct oring (that being a #9).Quote:
Originally Posted by SoulsCollective
When using a #9, the oring seats and seals a significant time before the base of the hitting tightens to the T3. You get a lot better piece of mind to spend $2 and use the right oring:)
Were your stock o-rings smaller than the BP o-rings? I just tried it with BP fatboy fittings and the Ghost Compressions o-rings and it was leaking without even turning on a pump :(
It was a fairly slow drip compared to the stock BP o-ring, maybe a drop every 10-15 sec, but still a drip :(
I know with the #9 o-rings, I can just hand tighten and have no leaks even at really insane pressures (on my 8-port Typhoon). When I tore down a couple days ago, I converted all my fittings to #9s, they're really awesome :D
The O-rings I was using with the BP fittings were those that came with them stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
Does anyone have any measurements for these "#9" O-rings (preferably in metric)? Not being in the USA, I don't have your department stores or hardware standards and thus can't just ask for "#9 O-rings" at my local hardware stores.
I was asking about your Ghost Comps stock fittings, sorry :eek: Mine are noticeably smaller than the BP's stock fittings.
Hard to get exact measurements since they're flexible, but ~11mm ID and ~16mm OD.
They have the same OD as the BP stock fittings (~12.7/~16) and the same ID as the Ghost Compression fittings (~11/~14) for reference.
They should look like a thicker version of the BP stock fittings :)
Here's the ones I have: http://www.homeandbeyond.com/prod-cd-og-5123088.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by SoulsCollective
5/8"OD x 7/16"ID x 3/32" wall
Hmmm...it is NOT just you as I couldn't find the link either lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by meanmoe
I will ask Brian WTF as I sent him those like 3 months ago.
I know a few of you guys are electrical engineers...I need a little advice on running an ION motherboard on batteries for say a 2 hour stretch. The board comes with a 19V 4.74A wall wart/transformer that plugs into a jack on the rear I/O. From that jack there is the typical red and black wire--looks like about 18 AWG or so--that are hard soldered to the board. I am told that I can just build myself an 18V battery pack with twelve 1.5V Li-Po cells for something like 1200mAh to 1600mAh and hard solder the battery pack leads right to the same two solder points leaving the jack for the transformer connected. This will make the system run from the batteries when it is not plugged into the wall, and from the wall when it is plugged in, and recharge the batteries.
Seems TOO simple to me...like I need some sort of switching circuit or other complicated kit.
Any advice would be very much appreciated.
Just received the black T3 faceplate and it looks fantastic with the cosmos S case.
Looks FANTASTIC.
Just sent you a PM G. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Glad you are happy with yours. I just received mine as well but will still have to wait a bit before installing. Please post a pic or 2 if possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
Just make certain you add in the extra thickness of the faceplate when mounting it, otherwise it won't be flush. I have to flush mine one of these days.
My T3 was flush but because the top cover of the cosmos has a lip I was able to get away with it.
Olus I hated the thought of getting the electric drill out again.
But it really does look great.:up:
I thnk everything is good except the noise. It turns your pc into a big speaker. I was very happy with the performance but i had to set the pump to speed 2 so it could be bearable. I rather use D5 with custom tops.
It's cavitation.
You need to get the air out. I have 4 of these things, and they run near silent, even at setting 5.
If you bleed it right, and you need turn skyward, to get all the air out.
I had no air left in the system. I left the thing run all night skyward and wasn't happy with the results. People have different tolerance to noise. I don't think is a big issue since the majority are happy, i think i am just too sensitive to that noise.Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrout
It is a bit noisy on the non-vario. I can hear it more compared to when it was mounted down in the case. I think it is partly due to it being higher up in the case. I just got a vario one to replace this non vario and I plan to find some peices of rubber to stick to the sides. I know it came with those rubber isolation pieces, but I'm not certain what I did with them. I figured a couple of small strips down the sides where it meets with the case should help though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fafeifa
Also that vario set a 2-3 should help even more. :)
There are so many variables where sound is concerned. The first is the person listening--the difference between sound and noise. When I made the transition from Lian-Li cases to Silverstone cases everything seemed so much louder all of a sudden. After I had the entire case apart for painting with the rivets drilled out and then put back together it was as quiet as a Lian-Li...turns out on that particular batch the rivet machines air pressure was probably set a little low so the rivets were not clenching as tight as they should. Very subtle vibration in the chassis was causing all the joints to generate noise.
If you are sure all the air is out and you have used the included isolation washers then you might want to be sure the case/case sides etc are tight. On the plus side, running a T3 at 3 (as I do) is usually plenty as it moves a LOT of water =)
I have purchased a waterblock for the chipset of the EVGA classified.
I already have a heatkiller 3.0.
My current setup is T3 to heatkillerto rad and back to T3.
How should I setup up new block too?
Thanks.