That make two of us. Never bother to put mine back when it was "glued" to the heatpipe when i took it of.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
Printable View
That make two of us. Never bother to put mine back when it was "glued" to the heatpipe when i took it of.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
Nice, lucky guys. I also join the lucky club. I had used some Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy on my Southbridge of my older 680i board. It worked great. But I am selling the board and decided to try and remove the chipset cooler I "bonded" on. Yeah.....totally ripped the whole tiny IHS off that tiny little chip. I am not sure what kind of metal it is, but is sure is shiny.
Anyway, after freaking out, I mixed up a bunch more thermal epoxy, stuck a bunch in where the IHS used to be, then stuck the stock cooler on, and prayed.
Yesterday, I thought I would give the board a try. To my amazement, the thing booted up, got into the BIOS, temps were Great, and all the devices were showing up! I am so lucky!
So there is now 3 of us with working nake X38's? Only 3 i know of!
The IHS is the same as the IHS on a CPU, Nickle plated copper
Might lapp it and re-fit it!
I dont follow you here. You all mean that the "chip" it self came out of its socket and then was re-inserted to its socket??Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
The SB is bare chip and allot of surface area I might add, which is handy for AS Adhesiveing a heat sinks to it! ;)
The NB has that metal plate we attach our waterblocks to. It's called the IHS. Pete is saying that the IHS is made out of the same material as a CPU, "Nickle plated copper". So just like a CPU, it could be lapped.
The guys are just poping the metal cover on and off of their NB chip.
Anybody have a photo handy of the NB Chip just hanging out in the wind? :)
http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/7629/pic053lq6.jpg
The NB has a metal cover just as does the CPU, a few of 3 in total have been lucky in the fact out IHS on the NB came off so we are left with this (photo below) and it also still works!Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...E/PC110197.jpg
Photo has not been tweaked in any way as manny have said
I see what you mean, Well good news.. i did manage to remove mine . it took me a while but i manage,,,
see my work log for details
MIPs in action,,
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/237/pict0150gy1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3361/pict0148vf5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/4691/pict0154fa0.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/2110/pict0156ly2.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/6901/pict0157dh0.jpg
By neo_rtr at 2008-02-20
well im redoing my loop this weekend, exchanging the stock block with a mcw30 and using tygon r3400, jus a quick question for you guys.
I have never drained a loop with the block stuck on the motherboard before. What's the best way of dismantling the loop with the stock fusion block? I was thinking to try to drain my loop as much as possible via reservior and then carefully removing the tubes from the block while the mobo is upside down??
that seems to be the most logical procedure..
Thanks for the picture Pete. :)
Sweet looking blocks neo!! :cool:
Aldy402, if your planning on using the MCW30 on your NB, make sure you understand we have had 2 reports of members thinking it was a tad small, while others installed it fine....
Just thought you should know.
This is the 1st test with the MIPS on the QX6700 3.6Ghz NB Vcore 1.70
http://img49.imageshack.us/img49/3218/mips36vt8.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-02-21
It landed at 33c for both SB NB and 44c for CPU
I did stopped it to take the picture reson the timer says 15secs only
Ambient 24c
Your CPU is not gonna be 44c if your cores are near 60c. I think that reading is about 15c off.
Nice blocks!!
This is my test with the MIPS on the QX6700 3.6Ghz NB Vcore 1.70
I run it for 45mins, then stopped it and re run it for about 20mins
NB 28c
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/7856/tempsov6.png
By neo_rtr at 2008-02-21ambient 19
Now that I have been seen how much your ambient can effect all your temps accrost the board, I think the ambient column needs to be added to the OP. Sorry guys with small screens... I hope it dosen't make it too hard on the eyes?
So boy's, how do you think we should proceed? :)
Do we want a few entries by members at different ambient's, or 1 entry each, and let them pick their favorite? ...
I think I lean toward 2 or 3 each, but would go with the flow...
Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU -------------- Ambient ---- NB Block
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 33°C ----------------- Q6700 @ 3.6GHz ---------- 33°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 28°C ----------------- Q6700 @ 3.6GHz ---------- 19°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
Talonman --------- 1.60v ------ 22°C ---4HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz ------ 12.7°C -- EK S-MAX Acetal (Then I can officiall make this entry with a clean spirit!)
Screen shot: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...162085&page=35
Is your info correct as listed neo? :)
I'd say if possible, let people post a minimum of 2 ambient/ load temps, mine seems to be about 59F minimum and whatever max people may experience. I won't be able to post a max till summer and I see 95-100F. After being stable for 7 days at previously posted settings and temps, I went from a Windows SMP to VMware Workstation with 2 instances of Linux 64 and the corresponding folding smps. I've had to up voltages considerably and NB is currently hitting 35C. I suspect I'll have to go to 1.70v NB to get stable again. At least 2 ambient temps should be allowed. I have no objections to using the scroll bar if others want more ambient options. :yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Thanks for the input WFO... :up:
I also plan on doing another run, when my basement heats up!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
It should read Ambient 24c
Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU -------------- Ambient ---- NB Block
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 33°C ----------------- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz --------- 24°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 28°C ----------------- QX6700 @ 3.6GHz --------- 19°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
Corrected! Thanks.
I think your the first member to post his temps running 5 blocks in 1 loop. :)
I was wondering how much it would change your temps on the NB and CPU.
Looks to me like you won't be having too much of a problem running cool... :up:
I also took more of the info from your build thread for my OP!!
Thanks again for all the help you have given us on ordering these blocks...
I hope you don't mind neo buddy. :D
My read is your a team player, and don't care!
No problem. More that welcome!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
True 5 blocks in 1 loop !!! hehe ! way togo:up: thanks for pointing it out
I believe if I were a Borg, the correct statement would have been: Your data has been assimilated, to service us. ;)
Heck, if you look at yours and my entry, when our ambient temp was closer togeather, I can tell we are getting very similar performance. :)
Only thing is, I'm running 2 blocks in 1 loop, -vs- your 5. :shocked: :clap:
I believe you should be pleased with your temps...
The MIPS blocks look to be solid performers to me. :cool:
Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU -------------- Ambient ---- NB Block
Talonman --------- 1.60v ------ 22°C -- 4HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz ---- 12.7°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
Creek Tha Gray --- 1.61v ------ 24°C -- OCCT at 30min ---- Q6700 @ 4.2GHz ---------------- EK S-MAX (Vapor Phase Change user)
Nikhsub1 ---------- 1.52v ------ 25°C ---------------------- Q6600 @ 3.7GHz --------------- MCW30
Talonman -------- 1.55v ------ 26°C -- 1HR Prime95 -- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz --- 16.6°C --- EK S-MAX Acetal
neo rtr ----------- 1.70v ------ 28°C ------------------- Q6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 19.0°C --- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
WFO -------------- 1.46v ------ 30°C -- Folding 48Hrs -- Q6600 GO @ 3.7GHz ---- 21.1°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 33°C ----------------- Q6700 @ 3.6GHz -------- 24.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
Clunk ------------- 1.74v ------ 35°C -- Prime over night --- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz ---------------- DangerDen Maze4
Borg, It sounds Swedish!!! heheQuote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
Pls when possible just add the "X" to my cpu as iam running on a QX6700
.
Done! :p:
Finally I got my NB backplate sorted, and I have now mounted all my blocks.
Gonna start testing for leaks tomorrow.
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/8...forsidefs5.jpg
http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/5...baksidehc4.jpg
For some reason, the screws I got from EK with the SB block (same thumbscrews that came with the NB block) was a tight fit. But I think they are ok.
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/8...bscrewsem0.jpg
I look foward to your results Durkadurka.
Thanks for the post. ;)
What RAD are you going to be running?
I have already mounted a ThermoChill PA120.3 in the top of my Lian Li A70B case, using 3 Zalman ZM-F3 fans in a pull configuration.
I'll be using the Swiftech MCP655 pump, Clearflex 1/2" tubing and Feser One (Black) cooling fluid.
For hardware I got the QX9650, 4x 1GB Crucial Ballistix PC8500 and a 8500GT passively cooled videocard (using this while I wait for the nextgen topcard to be released).
All top quality gear... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
It should do a fine job for you.
Just as a matter of trivia, did you go heat or cold to remove your stock cooling?
I went for cold. I put it outside on the balcony for 30 min in -5 C, and then I could simply lift it off.
The board was brand new when doing this, hadnt been used so the TIM wouldnt have hardened on the NB.
Clever. :p:
You just have to love the the weather in norway!Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
Good job!!
I just corrected your entry... I never gave you your 20C credit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Creek Tha Gray
I would love to see a picture of your setup BTW. ;)
A 20°C loaded NB with an ambient temp of 24.6°C... These Vapor Phase Change guy's, what are you going to do with them? :shrug: :p: :D
They are the only ones I know that can give me a loaded temp 4.6°C below their ambient, and I still believe it! :rofl:
Do you think we need to kick Creek and his fancy rig to the curb! He may be out classing us water only boys, and his numbers may make the pattern looked more skewed? :)
We could give him some Xtreme-Maximus title or something, wish him well, and send him on his way. As long as we keep his s#@% off the chart.... :clap:
What say you?
All better, data integrity has been preserved:
Members reported loaded NB temp's in the 'Aftermarket Block Club':
ABC Member ---- NB volts -- NB Loaded ------------------- CPU ------------- Ambient --- NB Block
Creek Tha Gray --- 1.61v ------ 20°C -- OCCT at 30min - Q6700 GO @ 3.9GHz ---- 24.6°C ---- EK S-MAX (Vapor Phase Change user)
Talonman --------- 1.60v ------ 22°C -- 4HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz ---- 12.7°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
Nikhsub1 ---------- 1.52v ------ 25°C ---------------------- Q6600 @ 3.7GHz --------------- MCW30
Talonman --------- 1.55v ------ 26°C -- 1HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.8GHz ---- 16.6°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 28°C ------------------ QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 19.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
WFO -------------- 1.46v ------ 30°C -- Folding 48Hrs -- Q6600 GO @ 3.7GHz ---- 21.1°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
neo rtr ------------ 1.70v ------ 33°C ------------------ QX6700 @ 3.6GHz ------ 24.0°C ---- Sixdesign sold by MIPS
Clunk ------------- 1.74v ------ 35°C -- Prime over night -- Q6600 @ 3.6GHz ----------------- DangerDen Maze4
3rd bord has died! Ops! Next one will get some Vmods, but im tempted to get P35 again to be honest! We'll see
Sorry to hear that buddy...
Wow, I'm sorry to hear that you lost that expensive hardware. I'm about to watercool my Maximus Formula (non-SE), so I'm curious as to how you think your hardware was damaged. You're much more experienced than myself, so maybe I can learn something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
Also, I was wondering if it may be easier to use the SB heatsink that comes with the maximus by detaching the heatsink from the heatpipe. Here's a pic from Exahertz http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...riheatpipe.jpg
Thanks
1 - don't leave a suction line from your cascade fitted to the bord
2 - don't let your kids near ya stuff
3 - don't let your kids have friends over
4 - no kids partys at all what so ever
5 - there are locks on doors for bloody good reasons, start using them
3rd bord was snapped in half, my youngest and his new love were playing kiss chase and ran through my pc workshop/room thingy and caught the suctionline on my brand new uber cascade and it tore the bord off the bench table and snaped it.
No worrise, i will just take £200 out of his account and tell him when he is 18.
Other 2 gone via abuse to be fair, one died after BIOS flash withing the EZ BIOS due to powercut (out of my control) and lastly no idea on 2nd, just went pop..meh
SB on water was showing around 35c on mine, then again it was last thing in the loop after
CPU>NB>MOSFETS X 2>GFX
I also did remove the SB at one point and i think there was a lack of TIM there.
Screwdriver under the copper end will do the job, it's only firction and doubble sided tape holding it in location!
I'm no expert but i share my findings and what not. Thats what forums are all about. I just dont give a toss to what happens too much if it's me killing my stuff
After about 1 1/2 months of usage i decided (late tbh) to remove the stock M/B heatpipes so as to reapply some thermal paste to see if it would make any difference. I am up to 20 mins atm heating the nb with a hair drayer and the hs doesnt even move 1 mm. Shall i try more or shall i give up? Do i have any chanche to take it off?
damn... i can't believe it's that hard. both of mine practically fell off the board. somebody at the asus factory must be playing games.
Fell off after usage or just out of the box?
after about a week of use on both. all i did was pull the mounting hardware off and it came off before i even finished removing the pins. that was before overclocking on both boards. my friend has a P5E and it did the same.
Did u reapply any thermal paste?Did u see any temp difference?Heating for more than 35-40 min atm. :(
temp difference was substantial because i went with the EK waterblocks to cool the NB, SB, and VRMs. i used MX-2 on the NB and SB and used thermal pads on the VRMs. temps are the same as everyone else has reported.
i'd be careful heating your board up too much. have you tried the above mentioned idea of prying the heatpipe out of the SB cooler? a lot of people that have had the same problem you are having did that and it made it a little easier to get them off.
Have a link to check this out?
Nice
Durkadurka (best name ever) nice set up, did u remove the IHS off the north bridge?
take a look at my log page about the removal of the fusion block.¨¨Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosAD
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&postcount=23
I did try the hot air but i manage to remove it with compressed air meaning "cold".
Nope, the IHS is still on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeywoman
The only thing I struggled with was cleaning the IHS.
That stock TIM is some rugged stuff.
Thanx for the replies guyz. I finally managed to take asus hs off.It took me over 1 hour of heating the mb.You would be amazed on how much thermal paste (more like cement i would say :P) there was under the hs. So far so good. I just hope no damage on the mb from all that heat.
Mine popped right off after 20min in the freezer, no need to heat it up.
To remove the ASUS TIM, nail polish remover melts that stuff right off.
Hilarious. I guess you can't blame the the MB being snapped in half on Asus. Thanks for the tips. I think I'm going to go ahead and make my purchases, watercooling the NB while leaving the SB to be air-cooled.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete
Well, I started building my WC loop on my Maximus Formula. Since I don't have an SE, I had no choice but to remove the NB block if I wanted better NB temps on OC'ing than I've been getting while air cooling. (I've been using the board for a month now.)
I went with cold to remove the NB.........but instead of 20 minutes in a freezer, I bought a can of circuit freeze spray (it's used to trace down circuit problems that occur when the circuit heats up....spray the circuit to cool/freeze it down, etc.)
20 seconds of spray onto the block and the NB block popped right off.....no drama at all. I left the SB block in place and will aircool the SB.....the heat pipe lifted out very easily from the block using a small flat blade screwdriver under it and lifting it carefully.
In total, I spent maybe 1.5-2 minutes getting the entire NB heatpipe assembly off the board.
Going onto the board is a Q6600 cpu, 2 x 2GB Mushkin DDR2-1000 RAM, Asus Radeon HD3870 video card....well, it already has those components, actually.
The water cooling loop consists of D-Tek FuZion cpu block, DD Maze 4 for the NB, DDC2 pump w/an XSPC top, Thermochill 120.3 radiator, and a Swiftech MicroRes.
Sounds like a good start for me. I looked quickly for circuit freeze spray and it seems like something I'm going to have to get mail-ordered. http://www.chemtronics.com/products/product.asp?id=80 Thank you for your help.Quote:
Originally Posted by C'DaleRider
C'DaleRider, I liked your instructions...
A section of your text has been put in the 'Tips' section of the OP. :up:
On the way from ek i have
EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 for the SB so i can get a 3870x2 in
also
2 x EK-Backplate Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a
1 x EK-Supreme - Plexi (universal socket)
1 x EK-Backplate LGA 775
1 x Metal plate 775 - Supreme
removing the phase change and only using it for benching in the future.
Yes you say wTF it takes some time to turn on and is using some 300w of power and I love it but the ek water block is looking like the way to go. will post updated pics with all the parts on the mobo when there in so to post a updated setup of ek waterblocks in the first post.
I will be looking foward to it!!
Then I want some temps put of you withought the phase change unit! ;)
There is a spot in the OP just waiting for a picture of your new blocks mounted on your mobo. :up:
No worrise. Get shot of the stock NB cooling, pop the heat pipe off the SB and use a proper block on NB and get some uber cool temps to big FSBQuote:
Originally Posted by deepcover
you know, the best part about this whole thread is the fact that it applies to the new rampage formula board as well. im pulling my blocks off today because i just heard word that my rampage is on the way!
After cleaning up both NB and SB i applied new thermal paste and reseated hs on stock form. I am afraid i dont see any difference on temps at all. Maybe i did something wrong.
Allright, I am now testing for leaks.
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/9...ting800dy7.jpg
So far so good...
Running the pump (MCP655) at full speed, and I can't really hear it over the PSU (which is also very quiet)
you'd be the first not to notice a difference... something here is odd.Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosAD
man i love that black feser one!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
Watch it like your first born!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
Good job buddy!!
Did you do the block too, or just the base?Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaosAD
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exahertz
I just did the base, i have the non-SE version.
Have hooked everything up now, but cannot get passed "CPU INIT".
The CPU is a QX9650 and I put one stick of Corsair DDR2-6400 in the ramslot.
Is there a common cause of stopping at CPU INIT ?
1) Does the PC start, meaning do you get power to the mb.Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
2) i was getting the following... the reset button on the mb is green, the power botton is lighting red.
no matter how much i ws presssing the "power" button on on chassi it wouldnt boot. i was pressing the power button on the mb for up to 2 mins before i could get it to start. It turned out to be a sort circuit on the mb.
iam writing this just in case same is happening to you
Yeah LEDs are on across the board. Reset has a green light, while the power button has a red light.
Both the RAM and CPU leds are up to red.
So you get power to the mb but it will not boot. you get lights across the mb when you press the power button, meaning the funs are workingQuote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
you might try this already and changed the ram from one slot to the other.
Red means that the voltage is high, unless you find a way to reset your bios, as it might be stuck in some strainge voltage.
Did you set everything back to default before you took the CPU out?
This was my first ever run.
I put the cpu in, mounted waterblocks, ran leaktesting, and then started up for the first time today.
This MB should run QX9650 right of the shelf right?
I have an e6600 on the computer I'm writing on right now, would it be worth it to test this on the Maximus perhaps?
If that boots, flash to BIOS 0907 and give it another go?
Or am I reaching here, and should be looking for other possibilities?
I would say definitely test if it boots with another CPU....
Then update the bios.
Process of elimination...
I know that was the case for me for the E8400. I had to put an older chip in and update the bios before I could use the E8400. It's definitely worth trying the other chip when you exhaust your other options. I would first try clearing the CMOS if you haven't already. Remember, to clear the CMOS the sliding switch on the PCB must be in the correct position. By default, mine was set to disable. Thus, when I hit the clear CMOS button on the back of the computer, it just reboot my computer, but didn't clear the CMOS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
Early bios' did not support the 45nm chips. I believe you need to install the E6600, flash to 907 and then swap the cpus. I'd clear cmos once the E6600 is out before installing the 9650. :shrug: If your board came with the beta 907 maybe someone else has a better answer. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
One thing I notice is that I was mistaken about before, is that I get no lights on the CPU LED. I get red on all the other LEDs; NB, RAM and SB.
Oh well, I'll try the other CPU tomorrow after work, too tired now to do it.
I've had this board since it came on the market, was the first item I got for my new build.Quote:
Originally Posted by WFO
So it probably has one of the earlier bioses that didnt support 45nm then.
Crap! During the process of switching CPU, I managed to pull one of the hoses off the D-Tek block, and spilled quite some liquid (Feser one) onto the MB.
How should I go about cleaning/drying it?
Should I remove all the blocks and hang it to dry ?
The bord do not what so ever persiod ship with the new bios to suport 45nm, you have to flash it.
No matter what rev or date of this bord.
I think you can get into it without a CPU.
Hopefully it aint killed the CPU!
If your board wasn't plugged in you shouldn't have anything to worry about with Fesser 1 or distilled water considering your loop was new and not likely contaminated. I would just dry it thoroughly with a rag and perhaps let it sit for 24 hours to ensure all of the moisture is evaporated. Perhaps use a hairdryer to ensure all water is evaporated as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
Anyone else?
I had already disconnected all power, so yeah I guess I need to empty the loop, remove everything and make sure everything dries up. *sigh*
Well, it seems I have managed to kill my MB. Hooking everything up again after cleaning/drying, and the card simply wont start.
I get the red light on the power button, green light on the reset button and greenish light on the clear cmos on the back of the MB. Also blue light in the LED poster.
But it seems the PSU dont get the signal to start up, if I take out the 24-pin and use a starter-pin, it starts like normal.
Is there anything other than a dead MB that would cause it not to start the PSU ? I've checked all the cables several times, tried with different mem modules, with or without PCI-e videocard and there is just nothing that will make it start.
Just thought I'd ask if anyone have any suggestions before I order a new MB.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
I had exact the same things happening. The lighs on mine as you say and the light on the LCD with CPU INIT exacly the same.
It turn out to be sort-circuit on the backplate of the SB.
if you take the mb out of the chassi and just power it up outside the box with just the onboard speaker , probably a sound can be heard, (beep) and you go feom there..
just switched out the fusion block for a mcw30
I can confirm that it fits but it takes a little manipulating..
it only works with the hard mount
also switched to black tygon r3400
somehow I lost a stick of ram in the process
also cleaned as hard as i can, still couldn't get the damn purple out of my loop , anybody know where I can get some black dye?
cable management is still ongoing .. got black sata cables on the way...
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/4162/img0752bh4.jpg
what size r3400 is that?
3/8" id 1/2" od
what wall size?
Quote:
Originally Posted by disruptfam
If me math skillz are right, it's 1/8in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Aldy402
Close: the correct answer is 1/16" as there are 2 walls to consider when measuring the diameter.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate P.
any unmodded passive cooler for sb like the enzotech CNB-S1L that can be fixed up at this mobo?
1/16! :(
heres some more details about the tubing i used
Specifications: Part # AAE00027, 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD, Wall Thickness 1/16", Minimum Bend Radius 1-3/4", Maximum Working Pressure at 73°F (psi): 25, Vacuum Rating, In. of Mercury at 73°F: 11
UpdateQuote:
Originally Posted by Creek Tha Gray
one shipment here
2 x EK-Backplate Mosfet ASUS 1, 3, 3a
1 x EK-Supreme - Plexi (universal socket)
1 x EK-Backplate LGA 775
1 x Metal plate 775 - Supreme
the ek supreme is clean looking
Good deal buddy!!!
I'm sure you will have some fun with them... ;)
Keep us posted.
i have 1/16 wall size and it kinks so easily swapping out for a thicker wall sizeQuote:
Originally Posted by Aldy402
Alright, now we are cookin!
Installing Vista Ultimate 64-bit right now, cpu is running default 3 GHz (qx9650) at 1.19v! :clap:
Glad your making foward progress again... :up:
what was the problem with the motherboard? did you solv it? how?Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
The Enzotech Forged Copper CNB-S1L for the SB doesnt fit with screws?
Nope...
For the SB:
The Enzotech low profile, Forged Copper CNB-S1L sink can work here, providing your willing to rotate it 90° from the norm, and permanently attach it.
I did on my Maximus SE using 100% Arctic Silver Thermal Adhesive. She's on there for keeps, and now is making excellent chip to sink contact!
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/5084/pic057ad7.jpg
Hmm, what SB heatsink are you using Aldy402? http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=981
It looked like an enzotech one without having to rotate it.
it was taken from a p5b deluxe southbridge
same mounting pattern
same sink is also on the p5w deluxe
While not exactly an SE, actually just the plain Jane Maximus Forumla, I got my loop, as it is, up and running last week. Course, not much different from what others have posted here.
http://jamayer.org/pics/computer1.jpg
http://jamayer.org/pics/computer2.jpg
http://jamayer.org/pics/computer3.jpg
Not much really.....Maximus Formula mb, Q6600 cpu @ 3.6GHz, 2 x 2GB Mushkin Redline DDR2-1000 RAM, Asus HD3870 video card......D-Tek FuZion cpu block, DD MPC universal chipset block on NB (essentially the same block as a Maze 4, just different pattern on block itself w/pins instead of a maze), Laing DDC2 pump w/XSPC top, Swiftech MicroRes, Thermochill 120.3 rad w/3 Zalman ZM-FC fans.....but I've found them to whine too much so they'll be replaced soon with Scythe S-Flex "F" fans.
Why do everybody buy a Maximus Formula SE when you change the NB-block anyway. Isn't it better to buy the non-SE because it's cheaper?