this is on the socket?
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Well I'm having some problems. I had a P5B deluxe and it died so I went with the P35-DQ6. Everything is working great and I haven't noticed any problems until now. I was doing some overclocking just trying to get a measily 3.2ghz out of my E6400 which I was able to do on my P5B at like 1.4v. I can get it to boot no problem, but running orthos will freeze the computer within seconds or the highest I've seen is about 6 minutes. I even tried running it at 1.5v vcore, +.40v DDR2, +.20 FSB volt, and +.20 MCH volt with no luck. I am running my memory 1:1 with the clock 400x8 with stocking timings, etc. I even loosened the timings a little. Anyhow overclocking doesn't seem to be the real problem...I can't even run orthos without the computer locking up with everything stock. I do kind of feel stupid to say I killed my P5B with a multi meter lol...I wasn't paying attention and I think I touched two points with one lead. This leads me to ask...could this have harmed any other component or would it have just killed the motherboard as it did? Everything seems to be fine and the +12v, 3.3v, and 5v seem fine. Core temp is reporting in the 30's idle so that isn't an issue either. I was a little pissed about the overclock, but now I'm worried I can't even run orthos stock and not lock up. Any help is appreciated. Thank you in advance.
EDIT - Just to confirm the PSU's volts were fine I used a paperclip to get the PSU running and tested the +12, +5, and +3.3 and they read 12.04-12.05, 5.00-5.01, and 3.29-3.30. So it isn't the PSU I would have to say... I also ran Memtest and did not get any errors.
Jared
what voltage were you measuring?
btw my 6400 clocked better on my p5b
i just think we need better bois n board to mature
Well a couple days ago I put new hard drives in and on an accident put Vista x64 on. Out of curiosity I put my old 80 gig hard drives back in with Vista x86 and orthos is running fine....
So I imagine it was a bad install of 64 bit or something because I know people who have no problems running Orthos on Vista x64. Either way I'm going to format the new drives and put 32 bit on and see if all goes well. Damn I'm pissed...I tore my whole computer apart to find this out... I'll report back after I'm done :)
Jared
can anyone recommend a watercooled mosfet for the dq6? im looking at removing the fancy cooling device and place water blocks on hte south/northbridge. along with hte mosfets if available.
So noone knows how F5G / latest F5 BIOS of your motherboard compares to F3 in memory read/write & latency? :( I would test it out myself but I get the hardware on tuesday perhaps.
Yeah but Reggie I don't think I found my answer. Anyhow I used a iso file from my school to install x64 this time. A while back I used a downloaded copy of x64 and it worked fine. Of course I'm using a legal key from my school. Anyhow, maybe the iso from my school was corrupt or the install itself was. Anyhow to get to the bottom of it I just installed x64 from the original cd I had from a while back. We shall see...otherwise I will try 32 bit on the new hard drives and if I still have an issue then...I'll worry about that then lol.
Jared
Well how long did orthos run on the old drives? It may just be down to a voltage issue now, unless your running with everything @ stock settings. Either way you should start out with a fresh install windows and see how far you get.
Well with everything aside and a fresh install of Vista x64 from a different cd...over an hour running orthos and still running great. Looks like either the cd was corrupt or the install didn't go well. Either way I'm a happy camper. So all along I thought my cpu was crap and it was a corrupted install. :)
Jared
Does any one have problem about power/standby on DS3R? My board keeps giving me issues related to it. Gigabyte support is not very helpful and keeps talk about overheat or power supply issue, kept talking about putting PCIE_12V power although I have told him twice my video card does not have PCIE_12V connector. (low end 2400PRO card) But my e6600 is hardly overheat, core temp 45C idle/65C load, and my Seasonic S12 500W has been awesome in doing it's job on the other board.
Problems on this system let me think it's DS3R related:
1) resume from standby doesn't work for USB mouse/keyboard. Unfortunately I do not have PS/2 keyboard/mouse. It's kind of ridiculous that this is not supported.
2) When hit power button, first LED will come up, just a flash then go down. And go up after 5 seconds. It does this every time.
3) Occasionally the system will shutdown/restart out of no reason at all - not running heavy apps, no gaming on this system.
4) Happen once, hang during Windows trying to go to standby mode.
I really doubt that this board has some design problem about ACPI/standby, etc. Any one has similar problem?
Is there a way to isolate the problem beside getting another motherboard?
I have a P35-DQ6 on the way. Can anyone who has this board recommend good FSB/MCH voltages for 400FSB?
Also, hows the PWM area in terms of temps with quads? I don't care about dual cores because those don't raise the PWM temps nearly as much as a quad will. Will I need a fans over the giant array of heatsinks?
Well after lots of testing and going through stuff to try finding out what the issue was I have come down to this...
I believe Kaspersky 7.0 is the problem. Seeing that a clean install of Vista x64 ran orthos fine until I put Kaspersky 7.0 on it. After uninstalling Kaspersky 7.0 orthos runs fine again. Whether Kaspersky in general won't work well with Vista x64 or if it is just 7.0. I know 6.0 works fine with Vista x86.
So my question is...
Does anyone run Vista x64 and Kaspersky 7.0? If so, do you have any problems with running orthos?
Thank you,
Jared
I used to enable Power On By Mouse and Power On By Keyboard, found they did not work so restore BIOS to factory default. Now it is as follow.
http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1263/...5c27b9_o_d.jpg
It might be my illusion but after restoring BIOS to default, the random shutdown/restart (item 3) no longer happens. (Used to be once or twice each day in the first two days.)
OS is Windows XP Pro SP2
All drivers appear to be loaded okay. No unknown device in Device Manager.
Power On By Mouse and Power On By Keyboard leave that disable. u should be able to awake from standby with them disable at least i can useing usb mouse.
i had same problem as u did but i change few setting in xp pro sp2 and in bios u can try this.
acpi susepend s1 (pos)
soft-offbypower-bttn (delay4sec)
leave the rest in default
add: in windows i change some setting in screen saver then click power make sure ((standby, turn monitor off,turn off hdd))i have them set to never. i don't have that problem any more.
Anyone know what Gigabyte broke in F11b and F12 bios? F10 and F11a work great on my board I run 3.6ghz stable (515FSB) around the clock folding.
Flashing to F11b or F12 and I cannot boot over 400FSB, no matter voltages or timings.
The one problem I have is sometimes the PC doesn't startup after I reboot and I have to reset it (with the button) and then it's away again. This is noted as fixed in F12 which is why I was interested in flashing to that bios revision.
I don't want to lose 115mhz of FSB headroom just to have my computer reboot successfully 100% of the time. Any thoughts?
My old E6300 i could only get to 3.1ghz no matter what (P35C-DS3R)
I just bought E6550 and it fly over that, i was hurry to play so i didnt test too much, got it booting 500x7 but my memory would not cooperate and did not load to windows, anyway working steady now at 475x7 with 1,325v. not sure yet wich temps are correct but ~45c on max load.
I just found out about the FSB straps and that it's not manually selectable in the Gigabyte motherboards. Will this be a problem for me in case let's say I'd reach my goal of 8x 450~475 FSB using 5:6 ram divider resulting in 540~570MHz ram clock or let's say I'm VERY lucky and can get 7x 515~529 FSB stable with ram 1:1. Since I'm not familiar with this as I've been using only AMD until now, any1 care to explain how much of a performance impact and does any1 know at which FSBs the straps changes? I'm a tweaker and I really want to run my systems at optimal performance and my goal is also reaching 10000MB/s memory read in Everest for example with acceptable latency :p:. Should I have choosed ASUS or Abit instead or it won't be a concern for me?
Any response on this is very appriciated, thanks.
I have a P35-DS3R board. At 1.45v bios, speedfan reads 1.39v idle/load 1.34v
I tried to measure VCORE with DMM just like this guide:
http://www.vr-zone.com/index.php?i=4966&s=10
However, at load BIOS 1.45v, i read 0.4 on DMM.
Its set to 20V DC having units X.XX I have red point to point in picture and black touching ground metal of case.
Am i doing something wrong? Is this the right place to measure Vcore. It looks to be the bottom right point of that chip/mosfet? if the board's I/O connectors are facing to the right. There seems to be 4 of those points on that mosfet and ive tested the bottom right but end up getting wrong reading?
Ive used the gigabyte thingy on the cd to flash in windows. Works fine.
just make sure firewall allows it to work
priggy might feeze but no problem
hey loco i noticed nb is volt hungry after 575fsb
but no real gain soo...
Well I found something is wrong with this mix from my past posts.
Vista x64 + Kaspersky 7.0 + Orthos = Computer locking
I uninstalled Kaspersky 7.0 and the issue has vanished. I installed NOD32 and have had no issues...
Anyone else that could test this out and see if they get the same problem?
Honestly I don't care anymore because in the day of using NOD32 it completely surpasses Kaspersky in my eyes. Kaspersky Anti-Virus became an annoying program acting like a damn firewall popping messages up about blocking programs. I never asked for a firewall and I just wanted a anti-virus.
Jared
P35C-DS3R Rev 1.1, bios F2
I set 5-6-6-18, but cpu-z1.40 read 5-9-9-31..:confused: :shrug:
PLEASE >>> Who know, Why..???
Http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc?id=229270
Whats the highest FSB stable, as in being able to run a full benchmark like 3D or PC mark series with E6850 & DQ6 board users are getting?
New GA-P35-DS4 beta bios out there...
F6a can be found here:
jzelectronic.de
and here:
Station-Drivers
Have not tested it yet my self... But im itching tooo...
Can anyoen confirm that the pinmod meant for E4300 does not work on the P35-DQ6 ?
Tested a E4300/E2140/E2160 , did on all the cpu's the 266 and 333 pinmod, non of them worked...
Just got a black screen where he should post.
If anyone can cofirm this also ?
Thanks ;) .
I have the DS3R board with a Q6600. In my BIOS the multiplier is set to 9 but the FSB is showing 200mhz. Why is that? When I run CPU-Z I get the correct FSB of 266.7mhz.
Could this be a BIOS issue? I see the F5E bios update is available ... any good?
How to obtain 400 FSB on E4300 with 8x multiplier?.
I try to 1,35 vcore, 2 vdimm and increase 0,5 v MCH and FSB but I can´t boot.:(
E4300 (L701C637) + GA-P35-DS3P (BIOS F4) + 2 gigas RAM GeIL (5-5-5-15 supports to 2,2v).
Everyone else probably already knows this, but whats up with the Gigabyte P35 DQ6 marketing two 16x pcie slots.
I had put my 8800 in second slot, not thinking it mattered. Could not figure out why I was getting 9900's in 3dmark6 when everyone else was getting 12K+ with similar setup. Finally I saw the 4x listed instead of 16x on 3dmark6 comparison. Read fine print in manual says supports 4x in second slot. Switched it and now instead of 9900's I always get ~13,500.
I dont care that it only has one 16x slot, if I wanted sli, i would not have this board, so why even use the terms 16x, it is 4x.
Can some one help me over clock my rig GA DS3P mobo, q6600 go stepping,2 gigs 8500 ram, TT 120 extreme heat sink. i dont want mess up because this is my first time overclocking. i need some basic step for overclocking, which programs do i need for measuring temp? btw i only want go up to 3.0.
Got lazy guys and haven't really added any updates...lots have appeared, driver/bios and reviews;
Realtek 889A codec drivers, version 1.73:
http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...&GetDown=false
New Jmicron drivers for Gigabyte branded JMB363 (SATA II) controller:
http://www.station-drivers.com/telec...ivers.com).exe
Intel Matrix Storage Manager, version 7.6.0.1011. The drivers and software have been updated, driver dated and WHQL July 12th 2007:
http://downloadmirror.intel.com/1380...iata76_enu.exe
New beta bios for the P35-DS4, F6a:
http://www.station-drivers.com/page/...ga-p35-ds4.htm
New Intel Chipset Software 8.3.1.1009, includes support for X38...read the following link....drivers are not uploaded as yet:
http://www.station-drivers.com/forum...hp?p=8587#8587
In addition if you go to the GB website they have new motherboard revisions listed, the P35-DQ6 is now only listed as Revision 1.1, other boards have revision 2.0 and 1.1.
New version of Easy Tune 5, page says August 3rd 2007:
http://www.gigabyte.com.tw/Support/M...lity&FileID=49
New review of the P35,DQ6:
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/hardw...rd-review.html
A review of the P35T-DQ6. The DDR3 flavour of the DQ6:
http://www.neoseeker.com/Articles/Ha...yte_ga_p35dq6/
I have tried various BIOS files for my DQ6, F4 BIOS and later versions. All had a strange reboot error, where the PC would post, then shutdown and reboot with default settings.
It was annoying having to enter the BIOS each time and select "enable" for the FSB and 2:2 for ram.
I tried the F3 BIOS after I read it was offering good performance, and the above problem has gone away! It posts and runs with the correct settings every time :)
I have my E6850 at 434x9 for 3900Mhz, and everything is working sweet at that speed :D
However I can't get the board to post and/or boot over 475ish though, even if I lower the CPU multi right down. I have 2GB OCZ DDR2 PC2-8000 Titanium Alpha VX2, which should be good up to 500mhz I think, but it just won't do it :(
Do you think it could be my E6850 not liking high fsb? Or that I have crappy ram or poor mobo?
Cheers :D
Anyone know what size the P35-DQ6 nuts are that you are supposed to attach when removing the Crazy Cool back plate?
Either my DQ6 did not come with any nuts or I lost mine... and I need replacements in that case. Either that or I have to cut the black plate, which my dad said he would do at work but that's not until Monday... I'm not powering up the DQ6 with a loose NB but I also don't want to wait any longer on system downtime. :(
>> I have tried various BIOS files for my DQ6, F4 BIOS and later versions. All had a strange reboot error, where the PC would post, then shutdown and reboot with default settings.
I use F5G. It performs about same for me at F4. F5L had an infinite reboot loop with certain OC settings.
I couldn't get my E6850 to do much OC at all. Running 3.5 at stock voltage. Couldn't do 3.7 or 3.8 at 1.42V or with auto voltages.
My Patriot 8500 memory can do 1066 5-5-5-9 easy at 2.0V, or can do ~1216 at 2.3V and loose timings but I didn't get any Prime benchmark improvement.
Overall, the board seems finicky in its OC settings, especially for RAM.
>> Anyone know what size the P35-DQ6 nuts are that you are supposed to attach when removing the Crazy Cool back plate? Either my DQ6 did not come with any nuts or I lost mine... and I need replacements in that case.
See photo of the nuts. I measured the nut, and it looks like the screw would be a 2mm diameter screw. I'm guessing it is a metric thread, but could be wrong. Plus, as you can see, they are not your typical nuts. If you want it, I guess I could sell them for $10, and I'll put them in a US Mail $0.41 envelope, but I wouldn't mind keeping them in case I need a different future cooler or something.
If it is worth anything, I use a "Scythe SCNJ-1100P 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler - Retail" which is simply the Ninja Rev B I believe (just got it from Newegg) and it fits perfectly (1/8" gap all around), and keeps the crazy cool on the back in place - no need to remove it. It used to be the #1 highest rated cooler at silectpcreview.com, and is very cool.
I might be interested in purchasing them, I'm not sure yet. I'll know after Monday, or hopefully by then (contacted Gigabyte and asked whether or nut cutting the back plate voids warranty).
Also, was the sealed bag they were in very small?
I think you're doing better than I am with my 4400 if that makes ya feel any better. Right now i'm at 356x9 1.525v(on water) ram at 890 4.0-4-3-11-2t 2.2v. The rest of the voltages are at auto and everyting seems pretty cool. It's much faster than my Opteron was so i'm pleased so far. EDIT/ wanted to add that i'm seeing 22c idle 52c load in speedfan for the cores with 23c ambient.
i finally found the sweet spot
530fsb:D
weird thing is the board is cooler now than @ 430fbs and i uped the voltage
Sorry, my mistake.:(
I need really 1,425vcore in 356x9, vdimm 2,1 at 5-4-4-13 and +0,15 vMCH & vFSB to obtain system stable....:( , but the temps are normals in IDLE and full.
Another question....who micro is better to reach a greater FSB on this GA-P35-DS3P? C2D E6420 or E6600 (within my budget) ???
P.D.: sorry for my bad english.
Poof my DQ6 problems are all gone. I assembled my brand new DQ6 and my brand new E6850 and my new radeon HD2900XT with 4gb of ram. Well from the first day. Everytime I tried to overclock using bios only settings it would always reset back to default settings on startup. I have a multi boot system It would do this with WinXP,WinXP 64,Vista x32, and Vista x64. I tried changing bioses several times to no avail nothing worked except once in a while it would mysteriously work if I was luck till the next reboot. I had tried everything from taking out 2gb of memory didnt help. was brand new power supply 750 watt thermaltake toughpower so i know there wasnt power issues. No heat issues its watercooled I had everything I needed shut off in the bios. For some weird reason I couldnt never use my reset buton youd just hear the pc cycle on and off watching the cool blue leds blink on my video card would have to flip the power off on the back of the power supply and restart. I evertried the dreaded Easytune always same issues. Well I was getting sick of all the crackes pops and lag effect from the onboard sound. So I went out and bought myself a bluegears b-Enspirer and disabled my onboard sound and Poof my overclocking works 100% od the time either in bios or with Easytune. My reset button actually works now. My conclusion either theres a batch of DQ6's around with onboard sound issues or maybe its just noone uses it to have noticed the problem. Ive seen some post to the sort of other people having issues with setting always reverting back to default Im curious to see if they were using onboard sound and if so try disabling it and see if your problems go away
Yay now im OC'ed to 3.6 at 32c 100% load Woot
I'm having a slight problem getting my E6420 to ~3.6 without going above 1.5v. Currenty, I have got 3.2@1.35(bios) and 3.4@1.38 stable (I keep my normal usage at 3.2). When I try to bump it to 3.6, not even 1.48 or so would stay stable - Orthos keeps crashing after a couple minutes or I get a BSOD. I have all my other voltages set as normal besides for the ram which I have at 2.2v running at 450 5/5/5/12 (instead of 4/4/4/12 just to get this OC stable). Should I raise the FSB volts a bit or that isn't needed and I just need to pump out some more Vcore?
My max temps are around 54-55 on Orthos full load and around 30c Idle.
Also, does anyone know what stock Volts are for MCH, FSB and PCI-E Overvoltage?
Well perhaps it scales bad with voltage like my new E6750, does up to 3.36GHz on 1.35v bios value with 1.33v idle and 1.31v load after vdroop. To get 3.6GHz stable for example it needs even 1.40v load, to get to 3.75GHz it needs even 1.5v load. Honestly I had hoped for a lot higher clock when I found out it did even 3.36GHz Orthos stable on a 1.31v load but it turned out to not be as I had hoped for such as 3.9GHz at 1.5v or so, instead it did only 390MHz more with an almost 0.2v increase. Can the scaling get any worse than that? :p: If I would go for the voltage/MHz sweetspot, 3.36GHz would be it for this CPU but meh I'm a performance enthusiast and 3.36GHz is too low clock for my liking so I just use 3.75GHz despite the quite a lot wasted power consumption for a relatively small clock increase.
I just got my P35 DQ6 and the first thing i did was to remove the "crazy cool" plate. Now i'm just wondering if supplied nuts really gives enough pressure to the heatsink? Mine seems a bit loose and im experiencing really :banana::banana::banana::banana:ty ram problems (memtest fails).
I don't have any nuts on mine (probably a very bad thing) but so far... other then a few random reboots when trying to load CoreTemp... I haven't really seen any problems.
Did you nuts come in a small sealed bag? I am just clueless as to where mine went or where they may be.
Yes the nuts come in a little sealed bag. Took me a while to figure out what they were for and had to read the directions duh lol
Forgive the intrusion but I have a lil question............
Confused by all these Gigabyte P35 board variants.
Which one would best suit my needs?
All I need is a good clocking board to house a Q6600, I don't need a squillion features as it will pretty much be a barebones crunching rig, no OTT graphics and such.
Seems the options are:
Gigabyte GA P35C-DS3R.....£73.
Gigabyte GA P35-DS3P.......£87.
Gigabyte GA P35-S3.........£64.
Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R......£71.
I don't envisage using DDR3 anytime soon.
On my DS3 I get a decent fsb with my Geil PC2 6400 so I assume it would be decent enough in these boards too?
I know the price differential between these boards isn't great but no point paying extra for features I won't need.
Which board would you folks suggest?
Thank you :)
The p35-ds3r is a great board if you can live with the vdroop. I had it over 500fsb with an e6400. It will run my q6600 at 9x400 with 1.42 after droop. If you are looking for a no frills board, it's the one.
>> NJDevilsFan21 -- I might be interested in purchasing them, I'm not sure yet. I'll know after Monday, or hopefully by then (contacted Gigabyte and asked whether or nut cutting the back plate voids warranty).
>> Also, was the sealed bag they were in very small?
The sealed bag was about 1.25"x1". It was loose in the box with the other cable bags (the nut bag was not in a bigger bag - a bad idea, but it is the way they did it). The nuts are about 1/4" diameter, by 3/8" long.
Regarding warranty and the back plate... let's be logical: If you can remove it (and, say, discard it) and continue to be under warranty, then you can remove it and modify it any way you want.
Since the Crazy Cool backplate can only be beneficial, if there is a way to modify it that will fit your special cooler, then do that.
Here's a brilliant idea for all those people who want to remove the backplate entirely, but don't have the nuts:
1. Make your own nuts out of the crazy cool (logically, the crazy cool could be considered, itself, several nuts assembled with a whole bunch of other metal)
2. Identify the parts of the crazy cool you need to retain the screws.
3. Using a hacksaw, Dremel, or something else, cut everything off around the crazycool threaded holes that you don't need/interferes with your other stuff. Leave enough metal around the threaded holes to make the resulting metal nut-shaped. Copper is soft, so it cuts like butter with the right tools.
4. Voila. Your "threaded holes" have become your missing "nuts".
Bit of a newbie here with this board.
I am more experienced with Asus boards
Has anyone got this P35-DS4 and an E6320 (4mb)?
I managed only 400FSB, I am not that clued in with the finesses of this board.
Running Crucual Ballistix tracers 6400 2gigs
And bios F5g
:D
Has anyone reach over 550fsb on DQ6 board ?
I thought about just separating the entire NB chunk away from the main CPU part, that way I could still get some Crazy Cool under the NB. :cool:Quote:
Here's a brilliant idea for all those people who want to remove the backplate entirely, but don't have the nuts:
1. Make your own nuts out of the crazy cool (logically, the crazy cool could be considered, itself, several nuts assembled with a whole bunch of other metal)
2. Identify the parts of the crazy cool you need to retain the screws.
3. Using a hacksaw, Dremel, or something else, cut everything off around the crazycool threaded holes that you don't need/interferes with your other stuff. Leave enough metal around the threaded holes to make the resulting metal nut-shaped. Copper is soft, so it cuts like butter with the right tools.
4. Voila. Your "threaded holes" have become your missing "nuts".
Measure the diameter of the hole. If it's 2mm it'll need M2 bolts, 2.5mm it'll need M2.5 bolts, 3mm it'll need M3 bolts, 4mm it'll need M4 bolts etc etc.
Anyone know if Home Depot or Lowes sells 2mm nuts and washers? I went there yesterday but the smallest I could find in the nuts & bolts section in either store was 4mm. Hopefully I can get the plate cut tomorrow though.
> Cob -- Measure the diameter of the hole. If it's 2mm it'll need M2 bolts, 2.5mm it'll need M2.5 bolts, 3mm it'll need M3 bolts, 4mm it'll need M4 bolts etc etc.
The diameter of the opening of the _threaded_ hole is smaller than 2mm (a screw's diameter is the solid part of the shaft, plus the threads thickness; thus it is the overall diameter of a screw). As an engineer who deals with small screws all the time, I estimated that that diameter of the screwes that would fit the holes (holes are around 1.25-1.5mm??) would be 2mm. If NJDevilsFan21 can take one of the NB screws and measure the diameter with some calipers, then we will all know for sure.
> NJDevilsFan21 -- Anyone know if Home Depot or Lowes sells 2mm nuts and washers? I went there yesterday but the smallest I could find in the nuts & bolts section in either store was 4mm. Hopefully I can get the plate cut tomorrow though.
Nah, you're talking about almost watchmaker parts. Try mcmaster.com. They are mega huge, and have everything in stock. Their catalog is like 2500 pages long, and they stock it ALL, from small teany parts to 2" diameter bolts.
> NJDevilsFan21 -- I thought about just separating the entire NB chunk away from the main CPU part, that way I could still get some Crazy Cool under the NB.
That's a brilliant idea. Make the NB chunk of the crazy cool a single chunk/double-holed nut. Don't mess with anything else. You have figured out the perfect solution.
Highest FSB for my ES E6850 & DQ6 board which has no mods Orthos stable Blend priority 5
Its already on Max volts for NB. At least I can use it more effectively with F5L bios, before with F4 bios it was a real pain to change Ram timings like it would boot with 5-6-6 on my Corsair Dominator sticks...:shakes: All this is on x86 Vista which is on Hardware Raid. If I go any higher Vista wants to shut down Orthos almost immediately.
Brand new Realtek 8111B LAN drivers, August 20th 2007:
http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...&GetDown=false
Have you guys tried F5m beta for the DQ6?
Great stuff for a few bucks :up:
http://img476.imageshack.us/img476/3...e675zi8.th.jpg
I also have a few general questions about the DQ6.
What does Option 1 & Option 2 for the memory do in the BIOS? Manual says like absolutely nothing about them. And will running the memory enhancing setting effect stability? By default mine was set to turbo, so I changed it to standard.
Now to go get this back plate cut :)
figuered this is as a good a thread as any to ask. Anyone have experiance with the P35-S3L mobo? i've got that running right now (tight budget build) and was wondering if anyone has gained anything from the recently released F3 and/or Beat F4 bios for it
for those not knowing what it is, its just eh p35-s3 minus raid and what not, there is also a ds3l with the ss caps but not raid
well seeing that I am not able to get help here I will just go back to my P5B board and sell this piece of crap!!
Well.... I installed my new GA-P35-DQ6.
Its not going well.
I mucked with the thing for near 10 hours. Tried 3 different bios(s)
4 different pairs of memory.
The best I have been able to achive is a quasi stable machine using Mushkin Xp2-8500 at lower than stock timings.
Infact I can not even get the computer to pass a single pass of memtest test 5 at any DDR voltage higher than +1.5
Its a Rev 1.0 board.
I also read almost every post in the thread looking for something that would fix this.
I think I got a bum board.
I other news my Noctura heatsink cooled my QX6700 down to 48 C. Thats 8C cooler than my old Ninja.
I would like to flash my P35-DS4 motherboard BIOS F4 to F5G but would like to know first whether it will affect my OS especially my Windows is sit in RAID volume before I proceed.
I am new in this area, hope expert may help to answer my question. Will I lost my data? Is my windows still remain accessible after flash the new bios? Do I need to reinstall my Window or rebuilt my RAID array after motherboard bios update?
Thanks :)
I am running raid 0 and the rig in my sig and the only thing I had to do after flashing was go back into the bios and reset all my settings then everything was fine, otherwise it will not detect the drives because raid is not enabled in the bios after flashing everything returns to default bios settings
After bios flashing just goto BIOS setup set SATA RAID/AHCI Mode to RAID, it will able to auto detect my existing RAID array, right?
Do I still need to enter the RAID BIOS setup utility to configure a RAID array by pressing CTRL+I?
For your information, I'm running Intel Matrix RAID 1 & 0 at two Seagate HDD.
Thanks
Hi there!
Sounds to me that you have the exact same problem as I do. Try running one stick and see if memtest passes 3-4 hours. It worked for me.
I will wait until i get some other ram sticks to try with, otherwise i'll rma this board since it just don't wants to be stable in dual channel mode.
172x: Don't worry about your data. The RAID setup, I believe, is stored on the drives themselves, not the BIOS or in flash. It's nice, so if you take your drives out and put them into another ICH9R system (and it has RAID enabled in the BIOS), it will automatically recognize the RAID setup.
The manual says that after loading in a new BIOS that you should load default settings. Probably a good idea, but I didn't do that. Nothing bad happened that I saw.
FYI, I setup a RAID 10 & RAID 5 setup on my four 250GB drives. I've flashed the BIOS 4 times or so with NO problems.
Yep, running in single channel mode. It is stable.
I ordered 3 GA-P35-DS3P for overnight delivery.
Alsmost the same board without the fancy heatpipe and 6 phase power instead of 12.
Michael
What vFSB and vMCH were stable for people who run 400FSB? Trying to find a nice setting for 400x9 on a Q6600.
no more than +1