Quote:
Originally Posted by afireinside
Yeah, Im definately considering teh XBX2, only thing I dont like is the jumper nonsense but ehh I can live
Quote:
Originally Posted by afireinside
Yeah, Im definately considering teh XBX2, only thing I dont like is the jumper nonsense but ehh I can live
Jumper isn't all that bad as long as you have a bit of light and cables out of the way. (all depending on your case). A hell of a lot easier than the jumpers on seagate drives.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teratism
Well I just pulled the trigger on XBX2 lets hope it runs good for me haha :thumbsup:
I've been reading about the jumper thing on and off this thread quite a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teratism
Although this particular jumper being physically larger to your normal jumper is easy to use it is much easier to go to any electronics shop and buy yourself a switch that alternates the "midle" cable.
Plainly put this has 2 positions: 1 being the normal the other one being your maintenance for bad oclocks, or if you want to disable C1E, etc. It is very easy to setup - looks prety damn cool - and will make your ocking experience smoother to say the least ;)
Has anybody on water managed to stabilise QX6700 at or about 3.7 (orthos stable) ; and if so what settings.
I can boot up to about 3.9 - and run general purpose programs inc prime but can't seem to get it rite for orthos at 3.7 :( :(
Actually it has 3 modes, Normal 1-2 covered by jumper (what you use), Configure (fixing a bios and changing things around) 2-3 covered by jumper, Recovery nothing covered by jumper (getting a new bios from a recovery diskette after a failed bios attempt)
yep, you're right :) , but for all intents and purposes most people will be using just "1-2" & "2-3" combo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teratism
Do you have a picture of this switch you were talking about or are you referring to the switches from earlier in the thread that people hooked up?
Edit* I may have fixed my problem. I think it was C1E since I have shut that off I have run orthos priority 9 on blend for half an hour and still going good. Anyone know why C1E would create such a hassle if it is it?
I have a problem with my board.
When I am at the memory freq. page, if I adjust all the values at the same time then save and exit, some values will not be saved.
For example: 400fsb, 1:1, ref. freq. 266, memory freq. 533, memory with 4-4-4-8 timing and 2.2V. If I set them in one time then save and exit. After reboot the ref. freq. is 266 but with memory freq. 667 (4:5), other settings are correct.
So I need to set them one at a time then save and reboot then adjust another value. Anyone else experience this problem?
Also is there a way to force the iflash to flash the bios? As I am currently using 2395 and I want to flash it again to ensure the problem above is not caused by a bad bios flash, because iflash refuse to flash over same bios version. Or the only way is to flash back to 2333 then flash to 2395 again?
Thanks in advance.
I can't open the pc now as it is on memtest. Here you can see how it looks from outside
Attachment 54604
Closeup
Attachment 54605
When I finish with memtest i'll chuck out the cable and post close ups of the other end.
Its basically a normal 4 pin power cable (that i cut of from an old power supply); obviously only 3 out of the 4 wires used.
BTW i wouldn't dream of posting someone else's post as my own :D
I'm considering the BX2 and Xeon 3210. But I would need 400 or higher FSb. Shamino seems to have reached 400+... How high is possible on quad core?
How exactly would one make a jumper switch like that for this board?
Would I just need to get some wiring and a spdt?
i wonder, cant we just set C1E to disable when the jumper is at default position?
My english electronics terminology is crap..
Cut off the end from an unused fan (3 pin) or floppy power supply (4 pin)
Buy a standard switch with 2 positions that alternates the middle cable (that is what we want i.e. positions "1-2" and "2-3" ; the alternating cable being 2);
Or as per supertim0r's post get a 3 position switch (this would enable you to have "1-2", "2-3" or none(for a failed bios flash)
Connect the switch with the cable you cut (ok if the wires are not long enough you'll need to extend them). The normal position are the two pins closest to your ram.
Plug it on and you're ready to go.
BE VERY CAREFUL not to "switch the switch" while the computer is on... !
Quote:
Originally Posted by irenic
Nope you can't - it has to be done through the maintenance setup
So it's good to disable the C1E ?
and up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Suge Knight
Direct copy from Intel White paper found here:
http://cache-www.intel.com/cd/00/00/...772_321772.pdf
4.7 Enhanced Halt State (C1E)
Enhance Halt State, also referred to as C1E, is an enhancement
made to the initial Halt state (C1) that Intel introduced
to better manage system power and thermal requirements.
It is activated when the Halt instruction is executed by the
processor during OS idle mode. Like the initial Halt State (C1),
C1E turns off 90% of the clocks, leaving the remaining 10%
running. C1E also reduces the remaining clock frequency
down to the lowest possible level, from 3.6 GHz to 2.8 GHz
for an IntelŪ PentiumŪ 4 processor 660 sequence. In addition,
processor voltage (dynamic VID) is decreased. Similar to
EIST, Enhanced Halt State is one of the key Intel processor
technologies that lowers power consumption and improves
system acoustic levels.
Figure 12 is a time diagram showing that when C1E is
turned on the power jumps down and goes back up when
the processor becomes active again.
If you want to be sure about your voltages, turn it off, although in theory you should not gain or lose anything when the system is under load.
My computer was crashing tons under any kind of stress or load, it would crash to blue screen and blame whatever program was going on at the time like a kernel, several different virus scanners (not installed at the same time), several different firewalls (also not installed at the same time) total instability so far I have shut it off and have had orthos blend on for more than 2 hours at priority 9 when orthos at priority 1 would crash the whole system within 5 minutes, even games or web browsing would cause a crash and so far since it has been off I have been stable. I personally say shut it off. Same with EIST, whatever that management utility is and turn on power slope to be stable and sure.
*side note alexankius I wasn't saying you were stealing other people's ideas and making it as your own post, I was simply asking if you meant for us to look back to what was going on far earlier in the thread. Not everyone re-reads all the posts so we may forget things.
sorry, my bad, overreacted, need more maners!
Me too, I prefer the 2333 Bios, the 2395 have too much bug.
I will test to disable C1E this evening.
I ordered my BX2 today. I will be running a performance on demand software when overclocking. Is anyone using Crystalcpuid or similar multi/vcore on demand software with this board?
Hi anyone an idea why my CPU Temp is so high too??
I have changed the scythe samurai HS to the scythe infinity with 2*120mm fans on it one with 1200rpm other with 1000rpm.
Iīm now on 355FSB with 3.2GHZ - IDLE is 38-40 and full load 66-69 with an arctic silver 5 grease on it.
:confused:
Pushook: You can try remounting your heatsink to see if that lowers temps. Have you checked the contact to see if your chip or heatsink is concave/convex?
For one, BIOS over-reports CPU temperatures by about 10C, so disregard it. I use TAT to monitor temps and it works best.
Also, just to clarify, to disable C1E once and for all, I need to set jumper to 2-3, disable C1E in BIOS, save, then shut down, move jumper back to 1-2 and boot?
Does anyone know what XD Technology is in BIOS? It's right below VT Technology I think, but I forget its exact location. Should I disable this XD Technology? And could someone explain the Power Slope option?
you will probably top out around 380-390 with 2395. As with any BIOS ever, don't update unless it directly fixes something that you find wrong, or you want the hassle of messing with it and are a masochist:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by shogo_ca
My bios reports the temperature the same as TAT and coretemp.
Yes that is how you shut off C1E.
Power slope gives your processor more juice, not too sure how else to explain it. Think of it as raising your voltage a bit on your own but the board does that automatically for you.
hmm I have mounted it for about 3 hours does the grease take time to get its fully power?
I have swaped the tower carefully in all directions and there is no change to the temp!
I think 2395 is what killed my board. =/
It can take up to a week for the thermal grease to cure but that at max will give you maybe a 5c difference. Did you check to see if there is a good imprint from your chip on your heatsink? If there is bad contact from having a malformed chip you will get high temperatures. You can always try lapping both items if you are adventurous and don't mind killing a warranty.
In what way omastar?
yes, you are perfect on how to disable C1E ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Omastar
XD stands for execute bit disable.
http://www.intel.com/business/bss/in...rity/xdbit.htm
turn it off unless you are worried about hackers:p:
On the first HS there was on all edges a little bit rough but nothing in the middle of the HS.
On the new one I donīt know because the HS is about 3hours on it I will check this in a few days.
After I flashed to 2395 using Intel's stupid recommended fashion (the .exe way), I had no problems for hours until I shut it down and rebooted the next day and it wouldn't POST. Only the fans/lights/mobo LEDs would power on, but the fans would never cycle down below 100% speed and I'd never get a successful POST regardless of how many times I swapped jumper positions, cleared CMOS, etc. It's just a flawed BIOS. Really made me just want to beat something.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teratism
ok i think ill just not try to flash to 2395 hoping to have some performance boost with more tight 1066 strap timings. Is intel aware of various booting problem/stability with 2395 ?
Ouch that must have hurt.
Okay, so what about the VT is that for Virtualization technology about dual booting or something?
VT doesn't really serve a purpose unless you're going to be emulating another OS inside Windows. You don't need it for dual booting since that's not running a virtual OS inside of your main OS.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teratism
And yes, it did hurt. Everything was going so well. :(
Is the board back up and running or are you on another computer?
I'm on my Core Duo laptop which I finally got back from my dad right now. Waiting for my replacement board. I sent the old one back to Tigerdirect yesterday (it died on Saturday).
Did you try setting the jumper to nothing and using a floppy to fix the bios?
I dont think C1E is such a bad thing. According to Intel's explanation, it only lowers your voltages when your cpu is idling to save power. Under load, C1E shuts down and your voltages go back to normal. Mine is on and I'm not having any problems @ 400 FSB.
you disable C1E with the jumper @ clear ...in the bios
I left it at default
It causes vDroop. That is, the voltage of the CPU 'droops' between load and idle and we want to avoid that as much as possible, especially under load.Quote:
Originally Posted by chaotic646
Also, Teratism, how could I have repaired the BIOS with a floppy if I couldn't get anything on screen?
I do not really know how, but the board has a jumper setting for fixing a bad bios with a floppy. You take the jumper off, shove in a recovery diskette and it is supposed to fix it.
C1E may not be bad but it caused an insane amount of trouble with my board, I got the dreaded blue screen of death anytime I did something that had a lot of load in it, multi-tasking, gaming, stress testing etc. Since it has been off I haven't gotten any. Down with C1E!
I have to agree with you on this one. From my understanding, the voltage decreases as well as the cpu speed so the droop effect really isn't there. Also, really helps on the temps. I haven't had any issues with it enabled (nor EIST) so I like to follow the philosophy that if it ain't broken, don't fix it! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by chaotic646
Never tried that. I didn't have a recovery disk, to my knowledge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Teratism
You would have had to make one on another computer with a floppy drive since you didn't make one before hand. It is in the manual.
So the recovery disk would auto-exec when I set the jumper to Recovery mode and put the disk in?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Teratism
Wow, after reading that I think I just died a little more inside. ._. *hits self and leaves*
I'm testing this out right now with 2395. I was hitting some kind of a wall earlier at 3.5: just about anything above 3.495 (9x388) would be unstable.Quote:
Originally Posted by wa2000
If this still doesn't work, I'm gonna try disabling C1E, but Supertim0r seems to be quite stable with it on, so no need to take it off without testing first.
I think your IHS is concave. Mine is concave too. You need either put more AS5 at the center or lap the IHS:slapass:Quote:
Originally Posted by pushook
Another factor is your cpu batch number. Those B batch CPUs are hot.
thx for the info^^ i will try on weekend with more grease in the middle.
what do you mean with the B?
On my intel box reads"BX80557E6600
FPO# L627B042
Version#:D63625-002
L627B042Quote:
Originally Posted by pushook
You only scored a B. That's better than an A in real life.:D
I just tried reseting to default -> retweaking my 2935 bios, and I my system still BSODs at 3.6
1.425v cpu, 1.4 fsb, 1.675 mch; This time my RAM wasn't failing at all, at 5-5-5-15 2.2v (at a frequency of exactly 400), and it was memtest stable for about 20 mins.
I also disabled C1E, which did not stop the constant BSODs.
I can hardly open the start menu before I get a BSOD. I think I'm gonna try 2333.
Right now everything is OK @ 3.495, which seems to be a wall I'm hitting. This is annoying :mad:
It's a 2.4 processor, why would believe it should run 3.6 at any vcore... Some do, most don't. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by uberwurst
I did not see any difference when the C1E is disabled. I always have as much problem with the motherboard, it boot well at 444 MHz FSB and then of a blow, it refuses to boot, it is very irritating.
Curiously , the chart is faster into 4/4/4/12 than into 3/3/3/8:
4/4/4/12:
http://sugeknight.info/PC/Cartes%20m...X%202/4ghz.png
http://sugeknight.info/PC/RAM/Crucia...208000/444.png
It's not optimised ^^
I also reflashed from 2395 to 2333 today and now the problems with the keyboard has gone. And no more reboots in 3Dmark05^^ Also the bug with the ram has gone for me!
Quote:
Originally Posted by GPSeek
Sorry if I'm misunderstanding something but my 6600 is an A. Are the B batch supposedly better?
If your board would not post, stick your ear close to the speaker/buzzer of the board. If you hear couple beeps(very low volume) when booting up, it can be recover.Quote:
Originally Posted by Omastar
First remove the power cord or turn off the PSU. Ensure the small yellow light close to the ram slots is not on.
Then put the bios jumper into position 2-3. Then remove the CMOS battery for 30 seconds then put the battery back in.
Connect the power or turn the PSU back on. Turn on the computer, now you should able to go to the BIOS config screen.
Everytime after I did the above steps, only 2 values are incorrect in BIOS. Date/time and memory speed and voltage settings. Memory setting always went back to AUTO.
yes, they tend to clock betterQuote:
Originally Posted by chaotic646
supposedly better overclocking if you read carefully here.Quote:
Originally Posted by chaotic646
However, it's generally agreed B batch is hotter than A. :)
IMO, B chips OC slightly better than A on the whole, but I'd rather have significantly lower temps than an extra 100MHz.
Figures that I got an A then. :rolleyes: I have a few degrees to spare but I think I'm maxxed out @ 400 FSB. :slapass:Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertim0r
Little test with 2.8V and Crucial PC8000:
http://sugeknight.info/PC/RAM/Crucia....3.3.8/489.png
I succeeded to boot at 500 Mhz cas 3 (fsb = 333 Mhz) but the systeme crash when i open CpuZ. I hope we will have quickly a soft to overckock in windows to do maxscreen.
Any update on the "next" bios release????
hehe, i'll go into my rant on batch numbers that I've tried to impart before :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by GPSeek
the A/B is actually stepping, in CPU-z you can also see revision #'s. Everytime the stepping/rev changes that means some lithography mask gets reissued. The bulk of those changes don't actually end up with any change to the actual transistor layout or metal layers, but are more to improve manufactureability (not a word, but I don't really care). This is probably the only place where you will show up with any minor change to the ability of the chip.
Beyond that you end up with what week they were produced in. A lot of people like thinking that a given week of packaging means that you will be much more likely to have a good overclocker. Along the line, a lot will probably take anywhere from 20-40 weeks to make it from bare silicon to final cut die in its package. Over that time any number of process changes (most of which are put in place to cut down on cost and improve production tool use) could be made over one of the thousands of steps that the wafers go through. Then all the die on the wafers get tested and binned. After that they get shipped overseas to one of the assembly plants where they get cut up and soldered to a board and have a IHS put on. Lots can be waiting for 1-10 weeks just sitting around waiting for their turn to get hacked into. So the actual week that a chip gets packaged has very little to do with when that chip worked its way through the factory.
Some also feel that the factory that the chip ends up getting packaged at has a bit to do with its ability. If anything the factory that the wafer gets produced at has way more of a pull on how the chip will clock. they all just get sent out to the place that has room for the next shipment. So the factory that the wafers get cut at has very little to do with how the chip will do.
Beyond that you also have to factor in where your chip was in the lot that it moved through the factory in. conroe is 25 wafers per lot, something like 350 die per wafer. Each wafer in a lot ends up slightly different due to process variations that depend on location in the batch. Each die in a wafer ends up slightly different due to the location on the wafer.
More then likely tracking the week that a chip's batch (which doesn't even directly relate to what lot the wafer originally occupied because batches are assigned after the dies are tested, sorted, and binned) has little affect on the true overclockability of a chip. With all the variation that a chip goes through how well it does when you start testing it has almost nothing to do with the serial number on the front.
hehe. sorry guys, sometimes coming from the inside and seeing people clamoring over what week a chip is just kinda funny to me. Although you were only talking about stepping here, i didn't want it to start wandering down that road [/rant]:rolleyes:
No matter what I do, including a rollback to 2333, tame RAM settings, raised vcore, disabled C1E, among many other tactics, I can't get mine past 3495 GHz with any stability. And I don't mean ORTHOs unstable, I mean BSOD unstable.
cpu: L631b106 , mobo: rev 505
3495 is certainly good enough, although I wonder what makes my conditions so much different from everyone else's.
FUNNY how I selected most of my parts before seeing this thread, and my system is almost identical to Supertim0r's, right down to the tuniq tower, teamgroup RAM and OCZ gamexstreem PSU. UNFUNNY how fragile my system is compared to his ;c
I think you just got a bit of a crappy chip. Week 30 and week 32 both > week 31.
sigh...Quote:
Originally Posted by Omastar
Teratism wrote: I do not really know how, but the board has a jumper setting for fixing a bad bios with a floppy. You take the jumper off, shove in a recovery diskette and it is supposed to fix it.
I can verify that this works... :)
lol.... it could be that I got a lame chip, but judging it by its week is voodoo science man... listen to Blauhung.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blauhung
I'm running 2395 with an E6600 at 3.5 GHz (385 FSB). Just went 10 hours on Orthos blend...
Ran 2 hours on small FFT's last nite, and an hour with StressTest on everything except printer and DVD tonight (so far) while ripping CD's and reading XS.
$189.98 from mwave.com
http://www.mwave.com/mwave/viewspec....iteria=BA23276
nice price..wonder if its rev. 505Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Worm
2 975XBX2 mb, one board takes ~20-30 seconds before showing the Intel logo screen after pressing the power button. The other one just takes ~10 seconds to show the Intel logo. Both board have BIOS 2395.
Also the 2 boards have different readings in voltage and CPU temperature in IDU.
Just switch the mb and everything else remain the same.
late breaking news, ignore all my past posts about 2395 having tighter timings. LOL, i was way off. Whatever they did with the move to 2395 they lost performance on the board. Posting table soon :D
edit:
wait, maybe it's just mem bandwidth and latency. still testing
ok, 2333 is better, at the very least it is more stable and a tiny better performance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blauhung
blue is 2333 in the picture
oh and the last row of benches is 3dmark cpu test
and final edit, ignore my voltages i will still have to lower them a bit.
and also got some stuff of the 800 strap vs the 1066 one. Basically it looks like there may not be much difference at all. I was trying to hold as much constant as i could. the only real nod I would have to give the 800 is that it looks like it is faster on 3dmark06's cpu test then the 1066 strap
the real interplay that is going on here is the fight between memory bandwidth and latency. bumping up the FSB has a HUGE impact on how much bandwidth you get. It looks like that bump is fighting against the higher latency on the 1066 strap and is very close to winning especially with pi times. i will be doing more. The hardest part is trying to find settings to compare CPU speed at different FSB and still get the same memory clocks.
Nice one Blauhung! Those are really helpfull.
Ill stick with 2333 and 1066 strap.
Nice work, Blauhung :toast: That'll come in handy.
yep, awesome work :toast:
the 2333 need more vfsb ?
I would say nice work but I have no damn clue what it all means.
as i said, ignore my voltages, a few of them are higher then they need to be. I just was sitting at something i knew worked, I had to head to the girlfriends house so i didn't want to waste time messing with optimizing voltages.Quote:
Originally Posted by Supertim0r
Heh, you were gonna optimize something else. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Blauhung
I HATE this board :mad:
WHY do I need to switch that :banana::banana::banana::banana:ing jumper when an OC attempt is screwed. And that's not the only thing, you have to switch it back, and last but not least: It is so hard to reach there by my VGA card and some caps. I wonder how long it will stay working :confused:
Isn't there an option to "reset" the settings by holding a key or something? By my old MSI K8N Neo I could hold Insert and then power up, but it doesn't work on my badaxe 2.
IT DRIVES ME MAD :slapass: ALREADY beaten the front of my DVD player :D :D Throwed my PC on the side so what's next :cool:
Will this board run 400fsb on the 1066 strap? or does it go to the god forsaken 1333
I don't know why you guys are having these problems with reset, switching jumper, etc. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by NoepZor
I had never have to use that mobo switch. After each failed OC attempt when board does not post, all I have to do is to turn off PSU switch and wait less then a minute! Turn PSU on and board is alive again and I can get into BIOS. Sometimes reset button (case reset button) helps during the boot when there is no POST.
on 2333 bios you will get close if not over 400 FSB, depends on luck atmQuote:
Originally Posted by ChaosMinionX
make a switch like a few of us have. i actually really like the config switch. It gives you a stable center for setting up the boot options.Quote:
Originally Posted by NoepZor
take smaller steps in overclocking. 5 mhz at a time on the fsb. Shouldn't be a problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by NoepZor
Do you guys ever experienced hangs or freezes in the bios?
That (recommended method) didn't work for me. I had a bad flash yesterday and tried that method for over two hours; system tries to access floppy but then nothing happens for more than ten minutes.Quote:
Originally Posted by lad
This is what finally did it. I went from jumperless and switched to configuration mode (that is pins 2-3) and it worked. I think what happens is that the system tries to boot finds the bios corrupted and switches 'internally' to recovery mode. I did this twice and it worked flawlessly both times. It takes about 1-2 minutes to kick in so some patience is needed.
yup, seems to be if I wander around in there for any extended period of time It will freeze up on me eventually. I'm trying to get an answer from tech support, but so far they just tell me to try pulling the battery and letting the CMOS clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by tjelaw
here was the other suggestion
as if i wouldn't notice the board grounding out to the case while running windows :rolleyes:Quote:
Please, place the board over a non-conducting surface. Just plug in the power supply, the video card, minimum amount of memory, and the processor, and try to boot up. In some cases a metal piece coming from the chassis could cause grounding to the board and would not power up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blauhung
If i didnt know better i'd swear that was tech support from ASUS...:D
That is of course if you ever talked to a LIVE person.....:rolleyes:
yeah, made jumping over to the EVGA 680i kinda tempting considering they have someone who will talk to you 24/7. I think this board is much better though.
I do quite frequently. Its very annoying. Sometimes I have to reset 3-4 times just to get a few settings changed that I want. It seems like it does it more if I try to change multiple settings at once. If Im only changing one or two things its usually ok. Im sure this will be fixed in a futre Bios update.Quote:
Originally Posted by tjelaw
and hopefully you don't have to compromise between that and the stability and performance that 2333 gives.
That doesn't seem to work for me. :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by mnemonik23
After I got a stable OC set up, I then tried using IDCC to make tweaks. When it fails, I turn PSU off for a bit. Turn back on and still no POST. Have to go for the jumper. :( Am I doing something wrong?
Atleast I'm running at 3.6ghz on air though. :woot:
Temp is lil higher than I like so that means I won't try to go higher, which is slightly disappointing. Damn the B chips.
Also, is there any way to control fan speed in the bios? I'm using a 3 pin fan and I just want it to go full blast (or even up it's voltage, since it's silent :P). I tried turning off auto fan management in bios but that didn't work. I finally found the setting in IDCC to max it so I guess it's okay.
The other question is I've read some people are having success with Memset and recommend lowering tRFC from 42 to 28 or even lower. When I tried that my system "zaps" and then it wont post. I tried a few times with setting as high as 28 with no success. Do I just have crappy-ish ram? I have the OCZ OCZ2P800R22GK platinum rev2.
Thanks for any help in advance. Lots of good info in this thread!
The only way Ive found to control fan speed is with IDCC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rysing_Phoenix
From what I read on other forums, the freezes happen when using a USB kb or mouse. From experience, mine has never frozen and I am using PS/2 kb and mouse.Quote:
Originally Posted by chaotic646
-sfxs