New build.. Model: ZRK (Zalman Reserator Killer!)

Just got my hands on this awsome radiator for my coming project (The ZRK)

I don`t like noise, but i do like overclocking, so passive watercooling suites me good. I have much expirience with passive systems, and all the hardware from my last project will be used "High MB temps? Cool your MOSFET`s and SFF R60 chokes "

The new radiator messure: 40cm x 35cm x 25cm and have 5mm between the fins, so it`s a good contender :fact:

http://www.diskusjon.no/index.php?ac...=post&id=56489
http://www.diskusjon.no/index.php?ac...=post&id=56494

Thats a big rad :o

Very little tubular surface area though. :(

so what was that radiotor's original purpose in life?

OT: have you given up posting at dfi-street, I saw THunDA getting on you about pic sizes.................

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Originally Posted by racinjimy

so what was that radiotor's original purpose in life?

OT: have you given up posting at dfi-street, I saw THunDA getting on you about pic sizes.................

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It`s originally a vaporiser from a cooling system (the one`s you`ll see at grocery stores -> meat section)

OT: Yes I know, but I`m too lazy to resize and edit all the post`s *sorry THunDA*. It`s not my mainforum anyway. Mostly attending the forum @hw.no anyways

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

Very little tubular surface area though. :(

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Didn`t you see the big nice pipes on the picture?! :D

If you count, you`ll see that it is 24 pipes with the lengt of 40cm running trought the radiator, the pipes them self is 13mm.. That`s a whole lot of tubular surface area if you ask me :)

A Powerful pump is suitable for that Radiator

Which pump are you to use?

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Originally Posted by Zenjirou

A Powerful pump is suitable for that Radiator

Which pump are you to use?

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Eheim 1250...Centrifugal pump
Pump output 1200 l/h 264 lmp. gal./h. 7317 U.S. gal./h.
Delivery head 2,00 m/wat.col. 6 ft. 7 in./wat.col.
Power consumption 28 W
Hose connection (suction side) Ø17mm (3/4")
Hose connection (pressure side) Ø13mm (1/2")
Dimensions: lenght x width x height 180 x 95 x 120 7.1 x 3.8 x 4.7 in.

Better off with a D5.

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Originally Posted by koei

Better off with a D5.

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No he's not, the heatdumps of D5's are unecessarily large for his passive setup. However, a Laing DDC would be a better choice than the eheim. Smaller, less heatdump, more head pressure = better flow/lower temps/smaller footprint.

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Originally Posted by EnJoY

No he's not, the heatdumps of D5's are unecessarily large for his passive setup. However, a Laing DDC would be a better choice than the eheim. Smaller, less heatdump, more head pressure = better flow/lower temps/smaller footprint.

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Link to product please?

Go to pumps on dangerden.com
The amount of tubing back through doesnt mean much. Your surface area is equal to the length thru X diameter of tubing X 3.1415
It's not as much as something with a huge amount of flat finned tubes.

http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...5&cat=4&page=1

Why not get a giant car radiator? :P

^^^^

snag one of those 60$ race car rads and hook an iwaki to it and your set lol.

just mount the rad to the back of your desk.

( would have to offset it some so its not up against the desk )

lol nice radiator. hope it will performs well

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Originally Posted by ArcticOC

It`s originally a vaporiser from a cooling system (the one`s you`ll see at grocery stores -> meat section)

OT: Yes I know, but I`m too lazy to resize and edit all the post`s *sorry THunDA*. It`s not my mainforum anyway. Mostly attending the forum @hw.no anyways

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I can't read Norwegian.........................so keep us updated here or the kitten will die

:kittenhat

That Condensor will likely give unexpected high temps if used passively. Condensors like that are very thick, and are designed to be used with a high Static Pressure Fan. Passive Radiators usually Maximize their Frontal Surface Area, such as the Innovek's Konvect-O Matic or any Single Row Automobile Radiator

That Condensor will get best performance with a Silent 172mm fan, as that will allow more air to move completly through it, rather than move around its frontal Fins.

As with my Radiator, the pressure drop with large radiators is larger than expected. A single pass dual row heatercore style radiator like my Koyo Racecar rad with 167 Tubes, will have a lower Pressure drop than a Winding Tube Radiator.

Because it is a Winding Tube, every 180 Degree Twist in Copper tubing drastically reduces flow..and a Single 12V DC pump will not be able to yield enough GPM (will be less than sufficient for waterblocks)

A high Head Pressure AC Pump is needed to achieve the minimum flor rate sufficient for your Waterblocks.

hwen do you think you iwll have this done?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zenjirou

That Condensor will likely give unexpected high temps if used passively. Condensors like that are very thick, and are designed to be used with a high Static Pressure Fan. Passive Radiators usually Maximize their Frontal Surface Area, such as the Innovek's Konvect-O Matic or any Single Row Automobile Radiator

That Condensor will get best performance with a Silent 172mm fan, as that will allow more air to move completly through it, rather than move around its frontal Fins.

As with my Radiator, the pressure drop with large radiators is larger than expected. A single pass dual row heatercore style radiator like my Koyo Racecar rad with 167 Tubes, will have a lower Pressure drop than a Winding Tube Radiator.

Because it is a Winding Tube, every 180 Degree Twist in Copper tubing drastically reduces flow..and a Single 12V DC pump will not be able to yield enough GPM (will be less than sufficient for waterblocks)

A high Head Pressure AC Pump is needed to achieve the minimum flor rate sufficient for your Waterblocks.

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I think your wrong at many points and right on one (the pump)

Do rember that the cooler has an extremly large surface area, combine that with the huge tubular area and I have struck gold :)

The main thing that separates my rad from yours is the large gap between the fins (5-6mm). This makes the rad extremely well suited running passive.. The airflow has minimal resistance when moving trought the wide fins! There is no need for a fan, and when the project is finished and running proof will come (failing is not an option ;) )

Yes I do need a powerful pump, but with pipes @13mm the negative effect of180deg turns is minimized. The pump I`m buying has 0,2bar pressure and I belive that is plenty :D

But thanx for the feedback anyway!

The one inefficient part that I see is that in a car radiator, the water is flowing through the fins - in this design, very little of the pipe is actually covered by heatsinks.

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Originally Posted by Overconfidence

The one inefficient part that I see is that in a car radiator, the water is flowing through the fins - in this design, very little of the pipe is actually covered by heatsinks.

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It`all about surface area, and I have plenty. Look one more time and you`ll see that the tubes is completly covered by the fins, do you see any copper between the fins? ;)

hark, is it 2002?
ehiem 1250s have anemic pressure next to anything but a CSP-Mag
the obscene quantity of sharp 180 degree bends, at any inner diameter, will destroy flow. One is bad enough, much less 24 (by my count). on a 1250, flowrates with that rad will be in the "is the water moving...?" range. hopefully.
Its a nice condenser, not radiator.

plenty of surface area, but plenty of 180 bends. even though their 13mm wide, you're still going to need quite a beastly pump to get water at decent rates

Hmmm
It has Multiple Sides Open for Air to Convect. Yet unlike automobile style Radiators, its not essentialy FLAT or relatively thin. Air may not reach the inside fins due to thickness. I'm sure that with even the most silent and slowest of 6" Fans will significantly improve performance, allowing air to move through its entire volume.

BTW-How many tubes are there?