-
Look at my big typhoon Lapping
-
-
make much of a difference in temps?
-
looks good, not torture your opteron
-
Damn.... nice job! I've lapped heatsinks but they never turned out that nice.
-
I havent tested this typhoon yet... so i dont what is the temp variation...
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew LB
Damn.... nice job! I've lapped heatsinks but they never turned out that nice.
Just needs polishing to make it like that sandpaper alone wouldnt do it
Was that a mistake in the levels used? 500grit is still pretty rough and possibly worse than the factory finish
-
i used 240 320 360 400 and 500 grit... 320 looked like factory finish..
-
Nice but your better use an hard support for lapping in state of wood . Best is marble work table
an example
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/6...origine6vc.jpg
-
That surface wont even be flat as the wooden table aint, use a thick sheet of glass, check it with something totally staight like a razor blade or stanly knife blade and it will be either converse or concave.
To test paint a black marker all over the surface and run it over the sandpaper and see if any black ink remains in spots
500grit isnt a good finish most start out at 400 and work up to 1500 or even 2000 or even 2500, then apply polish with soft cloth before totally washing and drying.
I lapped in engineering but we used rough then smooth paste on a surface table and a ink called engineers blue, to check for high spots.
-
@ humeyboy I'm french so i can't make a good traduction of what i want to said but you can be sure that a piece of marble will be flater and with less default than a sheet of glass or a wood table. And for best thermal performance NEVER any kind of shiny effect product...
-
that is not true the better finished the base the better but not with polishing thing because that is just filling the surface with it you have to use rubbing compound or some alu solution to lap after the 2500grit
-
Glass is easier and cheaper to obtain than marble, and if its at least 1/4" / 6mm thick it will be perfect.
Thats not true about artic silver5 it works fine on a mirror surface some other compounds prefer it little more rough.
Using polish does no harm as you totally wash the heatsink and dry it later (i wash in warm soapy water then run hot water tap on it very fast to totally clear it then i dry on top of a radiator or pop in oven for 10mins at 40-50C, there is no way any sandpaper grains or polish is left, also before fitting i give good wipe with lint free cloth with alcohol.
P.S Your trying to "teach your granny how to suck eggs", im 34 years old and have been a engineer 18years and i had to lap parts all the time, we used cutters/grinders then paste and if any paste was left on parts it was BOOOM to the engines, obv all parts were washed in a parts washer which was using very hot/detergant water (cleans and stops water rusting) but its that hot its dry as soon as you open door.
The parts were lapped GAS tight (valves in cyclinder heads 4 per head and 16 heads), thats far more than anyone here is going to do with a pc heatsink.
-
Lapping = ? I'm asuming taking your heatsink out of the package and sanding down the connection and polishing it for a better contact ?
-
wow how much horse power did u jus add to ur ttbt then?
-
^ rofl. I like it.
@Kemble - yes, we are talking about finely sanding down the base of a heatsink to make it perfectly smooth for optimum contact with the CPU.
-
@Humeyboy for the heatsink i don't need a perfect lapped and shiny surface. Just a better plan surface for better contact ;) I agee with you for the total cleanning of the surface after lapping. Using BELGOM ALU for example wich a use a lot to have shiny effect on Motorbike parts make an thermal barrier for heat transfert.
PS i dont want to teach to an engineer ;):toast:
-
Damn that's nice :slobber:
I can't get such fine sandpaper here :(
-
500 grit aint classed as fine, you can buy lapping kits, ok they are a bit of a rip off price wise, but some do include glass and all fine sheets (some will find it hard to buy anyhow thesedays like me, seems nobody repairs car bodys DIY now all done in bodyshops) and 1 of the kits includes artice ceramic.
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_3719.html
http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/info_3714.html
-
-
Can you report how much the temps drops ?
-
I just did mine... sorry no pics.... I think I gained 1-2C after the lapping.. :)
NC™
-
umm, polishing is bad idea. as it usually gets rid of the flatness acheived with lapping. and always do it on glass.
and only up to 500grit? id be suprised if your temps werent worse than before.
i always start at 400 and work up to 2000 grit. spending a good 15-20 minutes at each grit. doing it in a circular pattern.
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeStSiDePLaYa
umm, polishing is bad idea. as it usually gets rid of the flatness acheived with lapping. and always do it on glass.
and only up to 500grit? id be suprised if your temps werent worse than before.
i always start at 400 and work up to 2000 grit. spending a good 15-20 minutes at each grit. doing it in a circular pattern.
I've used the same grades of sandpaper in the lapping i've done in the past. Usually by the time you get done with the 2000 grit wet sanding, its got a pretty nice shine. Not quite as much of a mirror as has been created here.
.... looking at that shiny surface, i'm almost tempted to re-polish my entire setup.
-
Quote:
Originally Posted by humeyboy
Wish I could get that in the netherlands :stick:
Quote:
Originally Posted by NightCrawlerâ„¢
I just did mine... sorry no pics.... I think I gained 1-2C after the lapping.. :)
NCâ„¢
Where did you buy the fine sandpaper? You're from holland right? :fact:
