true 20-> 24pin psu

Since many in Xtremesystems who don't have a 24pin psu, have been using a pointless 20->24pin adaptor, YES POINTLESS!!!
The boards already have the 4 extra pin connected to the existing 20pin correspondent pins.

The point of 24pin atx is to have more wires to supply the same current, and thus not letting the 12v, for example, overheat.
Well using a 20-24pin is not going to solve that, so...

http://home.mindspring.com/~jjcom/p1.gif

Just take those 4 pins carefully from an old or dead psu, they will be the extra 4 pins.

Then:

- Connect the 5v, 12v and GND, to the correspondent ones in a molex adaptor(this way the current isn't all coming from ATX20pin).

-Connect the 3.3v to a orange 3.3v line from the legacy AT conector, or simply leave it unplugged, since the atx 20pin already has 3 of them.

And you've got yourself a decent 20-24pin adaptor for free, and with 1 hour work.

Post back ur toughts.
Regards.

Sounds good by the description, but the picture doesn't work all of the time.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...id=29397&stc=1


I would just solder lines directly onto the board.

yeah, or u could just spend 8 bucks on a "pointless" adapter that does the same job

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Der_KHAN

yeah, or u could just spend 8 bucks on a "pointless" adapter that does the same job

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Not a "pointless" but a POINTLESS adpapter.

What part of "the board pins are already soldered to each other" did you not understand!?

I just left the schemes of how to make one that works accordingly with the principle that with was made for in the first place: reduce current and heat from a single 12v wire, dual 5v wire, existing in atx 20pin.
If you've ever seen a burnt atx 20 pin wire you'll know what i mean.

Just shared mine out, who thinks those 20->24 pin are fine, stick with them and don't come to forums complaining about DFI Nforce4 instability and such.

24pin psu's have increased rails power, but that's another story.

Regards.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eversor

I just left the schemes of how to make one that works accordingly with the principle that with was made for in the first place...

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the pic doesnt work. i guess it would help to use fileshack or load it here as an attachment

Just PM if you need it hosted. No problem putting it up on my space

Looks good, have you compared this to using a real 24pin PSU?

jjcom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jjcom

Just PM if you need it hosted. No problem putting it up on my space

Looks good, have you compared this to using a real 24pin PSU?

jjcom

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you all sure it doesn't work?!?

i tried in 2 diferent pc's im my house and it's fine, i´ ve put the link also on first post.

If it doesn't work i'll pm it to you jjcom.

I haven't tested toroughly, but i hadn't had 280x4 HTT stable not even with 1.4/1.7, now with this and 1.3/1.6 i'm at 275x4.
As i test better i'll post back.

mmm...works now....before it said something about not allowing outside links with your hosting

jjcom

this is all i can see:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...id=29449&stc=1

just post it as attachment plz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by jjcom

mmm...works now....before it said something about not allowing outside links with your hosting

jjcom

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Just host it for me if you can jjcom, then give me the link, and i'll change the first post.

http://home.mindspring.com/~jjcom/p1.gif
done :D

jjcom

fine lets get back on topic then.

all i can say about this whole issue is that my rig runs fine with 20pin+adapter and when i switched to a OCZ powerstream520 there were no differences in stability/clocks. so i think the adapter does a pretty good job.
thats why i put the info in my sig so ppl can see that they dont necessarily have to spend 150+ on a new psu.

and now u come along and claim that its all "POINTLESS". like i must be a moron or something.

anyway, i heard that not all 24pin boards support the use of 20pin psus without adapter but i.e. the dfi board does.
i could imagine this to be the reason why the dfi boards "already have the 4 extra pin connected to the existing 20pin correspondent pins". and that the board switches to different circuits when using a 24pin psu or a 20pin+adapter.

otherwise i couldnt explain why my system runs like a charm.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Der_KHAN

fine lets get back on topic then.

all i can say about this whole issue is that my rig runs fine with 20pin+adapter and when i switched to a OCZ powerstream520 there were no differences in stability/clocks. so i think the adapter does a pretty good job.
thats why i put the info in my sig so ppl can see that they dont necessarily have to spend 150+ on a new psu.

and now u come along and claim that its all "POINTLESS". like i must be a moron or something.

anyway, i heard that not all 24pin boards support the use of 20pin psus without adapter but i.e. the dfi board does.
i could imagine this to be the reason why the dfi boards "already have the 4 extra pin connected to the existing 20pin correspondent pins". and that the board switches to different circuits when using a 24pin psu or a 20pin+adapter.

otherwise i couldnt explain why my system runs like a charm.

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Like, i did this and posted to the "xtreme" people, and you came along and said "hell no, just use the adapter". I became a bit pissed off(sorry about that), the point of this thread is to have an alternative, a better one.

I think it doesn't make much sense to use the adapter, but now that i think about it twice...

The thing is, i had a multimeter that was crap, and has stopped working right. At the time i measured, the 4 pins had 0 resistence to the correspondent ones in 20pin atx. BUT i'm not sure if it was measuring fine, at the time i tought it was. This with the MB turn off.

The part where the 20->24 pin adapter that's sold in stores is it doesn't solve the problem that 24 pin psu's came to solve.
Intel added a extra 12v, because to the MB only one 12v exists in 20pin psu, so all the current hasn't to pass thru there, if u put one of those adapter it will still do that, the difference is it will be split in two at the end, so no point doing that, getting it from a molex, the same for other lines.
The board already has a atx12v, but that's just used for cpu, not graphics card, that's where the second 12v line comes in in the 24pin atx.

if the adapter really helps stability vs standard atx20 i haven't tested.

Maybe you can unplug yours and see if it's any different.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eversor

The board already has a atx12v, but that's just used for cpu, not graphics card, that's where the second 12v line comes in in the 24pin atx.

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well there have been noumerous posts proving this of ppl that had great results with a 20pin psu (w/o adaptor) as long as they used only an old pci graphics card - but had great problems when running a pci-e card.

since im fine with my x850xt i guess that the issue is more likely to be the power lines on the mainboard rather than the psus wires.
i mean the 12v wire on the psu has like 1mm diameter of copper but on a 6layer pcb there is just no space for such massive power lines. so they have to create redundant circuits that are still powered by the same source.

but thats just speculation.
it would be great to have a dfi engineer around at XS to get answers to this kind of questions.

No one could see my image? I downloaded his image and uploaded it here, it doesn't show for anyone else?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by craig588

No one could see my image? I downloaded his image and uploaded it here, it doesn't show for anyone else?

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I can see yours.

I get it. So, this thread hasn't been touched in a bit, but I have a 20pin Antec TrueBlue480 and it has these power connectors that I don't use:

http://www.antec.com/images/auxpw.jpg http://www.antec.com/images/fanonly.jpg

Is the left image the legacy AT you speak of? Antec calls it "AUX power connector."

I am thinking that I can use the 3.3 and 5V lines from that AUX connector and the 12V from the aux fan (even though the wires are a bit thinner than the normal molexes) to make the 24pin.

Whaddya-think?

Sorry to double post, but I also wanted to bump this after the forum fix.

Are all PSU grounds created equally? Does it matter which PSU ground I connect?

funny coincidence that u revive this threat right now.
since i upgraded to 4x512mb i have these occasional bsods so i got me an ocz powerstream520 again to see if my 20pin psu has finally become to weak.

but just yesterday i got another bsod so i can confirm that its not the psu and the 24pin adaptor is working fine.

Does anyone know about the ground issue? Does it matter what ground you attach to this mod? Are there specific grounds tied to the 3.3v, 5v, and 12v lines or is it all the same?

if you need some pictures for this mod you can find them here http://forum.hardtech.pl/index.php?showtopic=751

I did this mod myself and it works fine
I connected only 5, 12 and ground ... so if you want 3.3 also you must take it from AT connector (or "Aux Power Connector" ;) )

done.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Eversor

Like, i did this and posted to the "xtreme" people, and you came along and said "hell no, just use the adapter". I became a bit pissed off(sorry about that), the point of this thread is to have an alternative, a better one.

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ATX spec is 18ga wire isnt it? thats 18a per wire @ 120C. I really dont think the
wires are going to have a problem carrying the current.

Besides.. I came up with this mod right when the DFI mobo came out and I got one..

I robbed the AUX connector for a 3.3v line, and a Sata adaptor molex for a removable connection to use the 5v and 12v/gnd.

Take that, wire it into a looted 4 pin connector from a dead PSU, instant 24pins ;)

That article will be published on XS soon. :banana:

I did a test comparing a 24 pin adaptor to a 20 pin and there was a big difference, but the difference between the adaptor and this hard mod was nothing noticable.

Its all coming from the same sources anyways. If you have a PSU with dual 12v rails, it may change, however.

*cough*
I disagree with some of your comments DS...

Regarding wire size... depends on insulation type, air flow, and density of the wire bundle. I would not suggest you try putting 18A thru an 18Awg wire in a 24-pin wire bundle ;)

There is also much more to power distribution than current capabilities... I'll just refer to a previous thread on this:

The old thread is here

Regarding differences noticed in testing... keep in mind results will vary depending upon what is in your system and loading. Besides the things in the above referenced post, IR drop, particularly on the +12V rail (of which there is only 1 of in a standard 20-pin cnx) starts having affects with heavily loaded systems. There are also distinct benefits to extra seperate ground connections all the way back to the supply that have nadda to do with current carrying capabilities ;)

Peace :toast: