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ok ive been asking around for a dry ice container and the prices arnt cheap :) so i decided to try and make my own and have a few questions.
1. about how much would it cost to make.
2. could i use a sodering torch and soder the pipe to the block since i dont have any other torch.
3. what thick pipe should i use.
Well I am FAR from being an expert on this, but the cheapest way to make would be to order the parts you need, cut to your dimensions, from www.onlinemetals.com :) They are a good site, though shipping on stuff is expensive :( I think something like a base 3/8" to 1/2" thick, brazed to a tube 2.5" in diameter (I just checked Online Metals, they only have 2" copper tube :( ), would be a good combo. My first container was 5/16" thick base, 2.5x4" dimensions, brazed to a 2.5" tube.... pics:
http://photobucket.com/albums/v223/t..._DIunit003.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/v223/t..._DIunit004.jpg
It now belongs to eshbach. Because base was 4" long I could just run bolts straight through it and through mobo mounting holes as you can see. I think Charlie or someone said that 3/8" thick base was a good size....
Anyways something like what I did would probably be the cheapest way to make a decent CPU container :)
About soldering torch.... I'm not sure that you could get it all hot enough with that. I got some local welders to braze mine together for me, and the one that did it said that at first he was using a hand-held torch, but that the copper just kept on sucking up the heat and wouldn't get hot enough, and that he finally just got out his oxy set to braze it together.
Copper is really good at absorbing heat :D
Anyways cheers, hopefully someone like Charlie who knows more will chime in with some more helpful info :)
^^^^^
Yeah, like HE said, hehehe....
The BEST you could do would be THIS:
get a 2.5" copper tube, 9 inches long, get a piece of 3/8 or 7/16 copper plate, or I think they call it "flat bar"...
Braze it together and fashion mounting and condensation.....
:thumbsup:
C
check my thread;)
use silfos brazing rod for brazing it
2.5" copper tube would be fine like charlie saids
and some armaflex insulation
about mounting, check also my pics.
there is going to be a guide of my containers online soon so
i'll post it in my thread when its online ;)
ok well i couldn't find any 2.5" so im going to buy some 2" also how long and wide do you suggest for the base plate?
Mine was 2.5 x 4 inches and it fit nicely on my DFI nF3 250GB. Any wider of base (like 3 x 4 inches) and it wouldn't have fit due to the caps. And the 4 inches of length is good, goes just a little past the mounting holes so you can screw thorugh the base, and into the mobo. Here are a couple pics of what it looked like when mounted up:
http://photobucket.com/albums/v223/t...c/th_DI012.jpg
http://photobucket.com/albums/v223/t...c/th_DI011.jpg
Well i was thining it over in english class and i will probable go with a rounded bottom and a mount higher up like the chilly1 container because that seems eaiser to change the mounts for different socket type.
Would I be able to use a cap as the bottom?
Ok on saterday im going to get 18inches of 2in copper pipe hopefully from my dads friend who is a plumber and has scrap. also im getting a 2in cap to go on the bottom.
Is this pipe to long?
And what should i use to make the mount to attach to the mobo? I see everyone using that grey stuff. what is it and where can i get it?
Although you can use it, 18in is pretty long. You could prolly cut it in half and be ok. Also the cap will work I think, but if it's pretty thin like I think then you will have more temp fluctuations between idle/load. However it should work for a cheap quick solution.
yea im just going to be using this on my 2800+ semprone system just to learn more about it and get experiance in using dry ice. Not going for any WRs yet... :D
For dryice the tube should be at least 20cm (8in). If u want stable tempratures the base should be at least 7mm thick (dont make it too thick that will have a negative effect on the temperatures). If you see the chance to make it round that would be a great advantage when issolating.
Here are 2 pics of my round container it has a 2,5cm (1in) base (wich is too thick) but im planning on making more like these with a thiner base.
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~vnrswk/DSCF1796tumb.jpg
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~vnrswk/DSCF1842.jpg
OK i got my pipe and the cap. They are 2inches in diameter and 12inches long. Got them at a local plumbing store so they only costed 12 dollars as oppsed to 15 online +shipping :D
Ok now im tring to think of a way to get more surface area on the cap. since its not excatly thick i cant cut into it but am thinking of putting like a large cooper scre sot of thingy ontop of it. Nothing as extensive as Chilly1's but somehting to help it
Got any ideas?
BTw Im not allowed to show you my face....Feds say soo :cool:
Edit: fogot to upload images :)
very nice m8
about the cap, maybe braze a round block on the outside bottem
btw article left the mailbox to owner of [M]
ok i sodered it on with the torch. must have used about half the can to get it hot enough. When it cools down and i polish it up illl post pics. looks kinda ugly now
you solderd it?
i think like everybody else you best braze it:)
sry i did but went blank on what to say
btw do you know where i can get some of that abs plastic to use for my mount?
the only place i say it sold it for lke 20feet at like $15 a foot
Edit: looked on ebay and found this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
would that work its only 2/8th inch though
PM Chilly and ask him to just ship you the plastic, I'll bet he can help :)
ok i have this new idea for a base. would this work.
Theorangeis the 2"cap on the bottom. then the other colored thingys are smaller and smaller caps.
Would this increase temps? i know that with a couple caps in there it will increase my thickness which is kinda thin right now.
i just wanna know your opion on this before i try it.
Edit: lol stupid me just relised i didnt upload pic :brick: :am: