Ultra-D to SLI mod isint possible anymore right?

Well my DFI LP UT is deffinate toast. Good job me not using plastic when I did dry ice. Condensation under caps I guess. I still have to try my old 3000+ newcastle in it but I doubt the chip is the problem. I could just get a new mobo but I have to go PCIE sooner or later and sooner is better than later. I was going to try Intel but the CPUs are to expensive to be able to get DDR2 and PCIE with it.

So:
I can't mod an ultra-D to SLI anymore can I? I really want SLI 6600GTs...

how many of the new winnies work under sub zero? Andy's thread looks interesting... I havent read the entire thing but it seems like a good theory... Is 3ghz on a winnie possible assuming I don't get a sub zero bugged one?

Could my TTGI 520 handle SLI 6600s or will I need something beefier with a 24 pin ATX and PCIE connectors?

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Originally Posted by afireinside

So:
I can't mod an ultra-D to SLI anymore can I? I really want SLI 6600GTs...

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It depends if you can get an earlier board that does'nt have thr bridges covered with enamel. But you cannot tell until you look of the chipset. The enameled chipsets have only been out a few weeks so you might be able to find an older board in the channel still.

If you're going with the DFI I strongly recommend a beefy 24 pin PSU. It can make a difference in stability.

Could my TTGI 520 handle SLI 6600s or will I need something beefier with a 24 pin ATX and PCIE connectors?[/QUOTE]

Hmm I'm not a big fan of 200 dollar hit or miss...

If you want no risk, then pay the extra $30 and get an SLI-D. (Ultras run close to 150, SLI-Ds run about 180).

Or you could ask vendors what revision of MB they have in stock. AA0 or later all seem to have the enamelled bridges. Haven't seen or heard of any A01s that do.

Or you're patient and have a steady hand, the enamel can be removed... but you have to be very careful not to go to far or you take the bridges out.

Considering your desire for risk aversion... pay the extra $30 :)

Its 70 dollars more at ZZF? If I need a new PSU I wont go SLI...

My Thermaltake 480w Purepower is more than enough for my system, so I don't think you should worry about the PSU. The DFI are expensive indeed, why not try the MSI or Gigabyte? Epox SLI boards should be hitting the shelves very soon, interesting to see what they will do.

bud, 6600GT's SLI is USELESS! else if you play 3DMARK03 or 3DMAR05! :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by afireinside

Well my DFI LP UT is deffinate toast. Good job me not using plastic when I did dry ice. Condensation under caps I guess. I still have to try my old 3000+ newcastle in it but I doubt the chip is the problem. I could just get a new mobo but I have to go PCIE sooner or later and sooner is better than later. I was going to try Intel but the CPUs are to expensive to be able to get DDR2 and PCIE with it.

So:
I can't mod an ultra-D to SLI anymore can I? I really want SLI 6600GTs...

how many of the new winnies work under sub zero? Andy's thread looks interesting... I havent read the entire thing but it seems like a good theory... Is 3ghz on a winnie possible assuming I don't get a sub zero bugged one?

Could my TTGI 520 handle SLI 6600s or will I need something beefier with a 24 pin ATX and PCIE connectors?

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My Ultra-D is a month old and i just did a SLI mod, wich worked. Only be sure to use the lower PCI-E 16x if u want to run the chip in SLI mod, cus in SLI the lower is PCI-E nº1 for graphics. Any other way it won't boot.
That's after changing the jumper block, else it will just behave lika a ultra.

Your PSU should work fine, the extra 4-pins are connected to the existing correspondent rails in atx 20pin. Mine is 20-pin and i'm doing just fine.

Just be sure to connect the molex on the board, even with one 6600GT.

Is that depending of the mobo rev?

I did it with my Ultra D, pencil mod, work correctly until I installed the new bios (maybe it stoped to work before, I don't know cause I haven't 2 Graphics card, I've made it for fun)

So the unique majors differences between SLI D and ULTRA D, is the SLI bridge and a soldering point.

You can juste move out the chipset HSF and check if the PCB is the same, if it is, then grab and pencil and give us news.

ECK

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Originally Posted by afireinside

Its 70 dollars more at ZZF? If I need a new PSU I wont go SLI...

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Not the SLI-DR, just the "plain" SLI-D... full SLI, just doesn't have the extra RAID controller... it's only $180 here. I personally haven't done business with them, but reseller rating is here. Would expect about the same price breakdown elsewhere based on the SLI-DR and Ultra-D prices.

I forgot I'd need to find an SLI bridge if I modded a board... I'd need a new PSU as well... I think I'll skip SLI.

And yes, I play 3dmark :D

if only your board is buggered then replacing that might be the cheapest and best way to go. keep the caps and stuff on the dead one for use later

hell you could always whip out your soldering iron and replace the possibly defective caps.. would be a pain but might be worth it

I did my mod by soldering the bridges and it's working great. I'm just waiting for the bridges that are selling in taiwan to reach europe :)

At least for me saved me 50eur to the SLI-D.

is the R.A02 moddable?

I didn't checked mine, but will do so this week and then report back.

I'm using an A02 modded to SLI (for the fun of it) and it is recognized as an Ultra D/SLI using Everest. GL

Anyone got pics to this 'enamel' covering the soldering points? How hard is it to remove?

just as hard as the stuff on a locked AXP. You gotta dig a bit.

doesn't sound like much fun at all

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Originally Posted by cadaveca

just as hard as the stuff on a locked AXP. You gotta dig a bit.

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so it would be possible to unlock an axp by digging the enamal off then?

I dunno bout no enamel. The hardest were the palominos because you had to connect them all. Same concept for the later athlons just different and usualy fewer to connect. Pally was five right next to each other so you had to be careful not to cross them. You had to get some tape and mask the bridge contacts because you have to fill a laser cut between bridges at the factory, then connect the dots/bridges.

This should be wide open providing you can get to the pads, even if you end up going U shaped or anything. I just got an ultra. I'll have to rip off the cooler and take a look. Have to see how much of this enamel is on there. Sad... I thought this would be as moddable as ever still.

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Originally Posted by HKPolice

Anyone got pics to this 'enamel' covering the soldering points? How hard is it to remove?

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There's a pic here. It's on my Nf4-SLI chipset so the enamel is over a different set of bridges (still wondering about them), but it does give you a good look at the enamel job.

Regarding the "how hard" Q... nothing a steady hand and patience won't cure, lol. (have to slowly work your way down so as not to take the bridges off with the enamel).

yeah i unlocked my pally took like 5 tries and enough cursing to send 5 nuns to hell

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EMC2

There's a pic here. It's on my Nf4-SLI chipset so the enamel is over a different set of bridges (still wondering about them), but it does give you a good look at the enamel job.

Regarding the "how hard" Q... nothing a steady hand and patience won't cure, lol. (have to slowly work your way down so as not to take the bridges off with the enamel).

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hm.. I can see digging that off with a steady hand a a sharp knife, then you got a nice little valley to fill with conductive paint :p: