Isnt their something that is better to use than water in liquid cooling???
Was just wondering...
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Isnt their something that is better to use than water in liquid cooling???
Was just wondering...
Not that is readily available, no. I'm sure NASA has some stuff though. Water is actually very good at thermal transfer.
d-tek sells something called fluid xp
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/index.asp...rodID=139&HS=1
it is non conductive meaning no corrosion.
well it may corrode but who knows
i really wouldnt say it is better, because it doesnt transfer heat as good as water or something like that. it also cost around $120 plus for a gallon of this stuff.
here is a review at overclockers.com.
check it out
http://www.overclockers.com/articles1028/
Pure water is always the best heat conductive fluid. Adding anything else will always lower performance...
The only real downside of water is that it dissolves a lot of stuff. But as long as you don't mix metals the dissolved material will reach a safe equilibrium, your system won't corrode, and you'll enjoy the very good thermal properties of water.
has anyone here heard of flourinert? that is actually the best to kmy knowledge. u can actually submerse a motherboard in it to cool the system. it isnt that expensive but extremely hard to find. there's an article on overclockers if anyones interested.....
I've read quite alot about Fluid XP, most agree the claims are questionable at best, and considering the price probably not worth it. If interested head over to procooling for some good discussions on it.....
Water is great, unfortunately mixed metals in water loops is pretty common, so we typically need to have some sort of corrosion inhibitor. Another cocern with un-treated water would be biologicals.
Flourinert has been experimented with quite alot when it comes to computer cooling. Unfortunately last I heard it was still somewhere near $500 per gallon, considering this, its not practical for the average PC user.
There are a few Deicing, and anti-freeze formulas patented by the military. These are manufactured/marketed by a single company in Texas. They would probably be worth looking into, unfortunately its bulk purchase only.
Low freezing point of -25 C is equivalent to 45% propylene glycol
Non-Toxic
Non-Flammable
Non-Combustible
No OSHA hazardous components
Non-Corrosive
Non-Conductive
Low viscousity
Neutral pH
what about alcohol? (mthyl/methanol? the kind u can drink ;))
Don't drink methanol, it will make you blind. Instead....try ethanol. :D
And as I said earlier, water is the best. Anything you add to it, whether that be to inhibit galvanic corrosion or biological growth, give your lines color or lower the freezing point....you are reducing the ability of the water to remove heat. That's the bottom line.
-Kris
Quote:
Originally posted by freecableguy
Don't drink methanol, it will make you blind. Instead....try ethanol. :D
And as I said earlier, water is the best. Anything you add to it, whether that be to inhibit galvanic corrosion or biological growth, give your lines color or lower the freezing point....you are reducing the ability of the water to remove heat. That's the bottom line.
-Kris
Unfortunately for most of us additives are a necessary evil....
On the topic of additives...
Windshield Washer Fluid?
windshield wiper fluid is great for chilled water cooling but i dont think its as viscous as regular water nor does it conduct heat as well
Well there is no way I'm using water wetter again...The Swiftech Hydrx crap is out of the question too.
What do you suggest?
Antifreeze
Distilled water and less than 10% antifreeze is all you need.
Whys that? I'd think most people are running all copper, or at least they should given the advantages.Quote:
Originally posted by Karnivore
Unfortunately for most of us additives are a necessary evil....
Some of us have Aluminum in our loops:eek: , many commercial manufacturers have aluminum tops, I've seen first hand what a poorly anodized Swiftech block can look like after a couple weeks in untreated water, the minor difference in performance is acceptable when I don't have to worry about that corrosion, as well as bio problems.Quote:
Originally posted by saratoga
Whys that? I'd think most people are running all copper, or at least they should given the advantages.
Now please try to pick out a couple mis-used words, or perhaps point out how things work on a molecular level..
EDIT: I should also add for accuracies sake many radiators aren't even really copper...
Use all copper. You'll get better performance, and the system will last longer in the end. Not to mention copper is a biocide and has no corrosion issues with itself. Its one of those nice engineering problems that solves itself, unlike aluminium and anticorrosive addititves . . .Quote:
Some of us have Aluminum in our loops , many commercial manufacturers have aluminum tops, I've seen first hand what a poorly anodized Swiftech block can look like after a couple weeks in untreated water, the minor difference in performance is acceptable when I don't have to worry about that corrosion, as well as bio problems.
That are commonly used? Like what? (serious question, I'm not aware of any)Quote:
EDIT: I should also add for accuracies sake many radiators aren't even really copper...
Actually I'll just stick to Phase change, however IF I ever liquidcool again I'll run right out and replace all my blocks that have aluminum tops... If we lived in perfect we could all gain what, a couple degrees C, and use distilled water, however for those of us not living there, some additives are still the ticket...
Radiators suitable for liquid cooling a PC have been spotted in Aluminum, Brass, and various other Copper alloys:eek:
Hey me too. Well I will be if i ever get enough time to finish make an evaporator :(Quote:
Originally posted by Karnivore
Actually I'll just stick to Phase change, however IF I ever liquidcool again I'll run right out and replace all my blocks that have aluminum tops... If we lived in perfect we could all gain what, a couple degrees C, and use distilled water, however for those of us not living there, some additives are still the ticket...
Well brass is copper with an anticorrosive element added (zinc), so thats fine. As for aluminum, I haven't seen one sold in ages. Maybe with some crappy kits though, I don't pay too much attention to the low end stuff so I could be missing some (sounds like something koolance would sell).Quote:
Radiators suitable for liquid cooling a PC have been spotted in Aluminum, Brass, and various other Copper alloys:eek:
in WW2 a considerable number of russian soldiers died or went blind because they drank anti-freeze when they ran out of vodka :(Quote:
Originally posted by freecableguy
Don't drink methanol, it will make you blind. Instead....try ethanol. :D
-Kris
also water is better than glycol, and methanol in terms of heat conductivity, but 3M flourinert is a lot better than water IIRC, try to find some of that
that listerine mouthwash stuff works great and leaves your rig with a minty freshness tooQuote:
Originally posted by Gogeta
Well there is no way I'm using water wetter again...The Swiftech Hydrx crap is out of the question too.
What do you suggest?
WWF works well its water and methanol mixed.
It can leave a film due to the dye so best case would be a water/methanol mix.
non chilled water/meth 90/10 chilled depending on temps use more meth.