My first build, low budget one

Hello


this is my first build ever. Although I dont have some high end components and did not really need water cooling, I always wanted to have water cooling in my case. As a student, I have no salary, so this will be the cheapest possible WC build.

Specs: Intel E5200, Gigabyte EP45-DS3, 2x2Gb Kingston, XFX 8800GT, WD640AAKS, Chiefetec 450W, Chiefetec Dragon DX1

some old bad phone pics

http://www.pohrani.com/t/g/AX/1BZosYS9/18032010259.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/3o/8i/10XYe6Qn/18032010253.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2r/125/3WLt...8032010256.jpg


For now I managed to get some second-hand parts

CPU block and radiator from TT LCS case
Zalman ZM-NWB1 and Zalman ZM-GWB3
few clamps, fittings
Eheim 1048

http://www.pohrani.com/t/2F/21/JRz7NWw/dscf6682.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2a/12c/2MeQrmrD/dscf6698.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/w/Dy/4oGohB6a/dscf6685.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2u/gf/t3GEdGz/dscf6705.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/24/rL/127VI66Y/dscf6670.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/31/rp/2m42Vvs4/dscf6675.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2o/13A/3371FSiz/dscf6711.jpg


I try to assemble without reservoir because i dont have it :D Thought I go with this loop: pump -> radiator -> NB block -> CPU block -> GPU block-> T line -> pump

Any suggestions for loop order? Thanks

sorry for my bad english

Congrats on starting your first project, Pupo. Have fun, and keep us updated.

(Your English is fine)

Congrats on your start.

Ya that's a kandalf Lcs kit minus the pump res.

Watch the block you overtighten and that will crack from the ports out. I had it happen.

Next first upgrade i can recommed is replace that rad with a swiftech.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

I can't wait to see how this turns out.... :up:

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Originally Posted by shazza

Congrats on starting your first project, Pupo. Have fun, and keep us updated.

(Your English is fine)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by malkiewicz

I can't wait to see how this turns out.... :up:

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tnx

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Originally Posted by MagisD

Congrats on your start.

Ya that's a kandalf Lcs kit minus the pump res.

Watch the block you overtighten and that will crack from the ports out. I had it happen.

Next first upgrade i can recommed is replace that rad with a swiftech.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

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It happens to previous owner, but nothing that superglue cant fix :D Problem in our country is that noone offer/sell parts for watercooling (except Corsair H50/H70). Only one store (in whole country) can order some stuff from Aqua Computer or Hardware Labs. There's no interest in water cooling, so the stores does not even try to have/sell parts for watercooling. Cant blame them :(

A lot of places ship international and I'd be realllllllllllly iffy on having my block held together with superglue.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by MagisD

A lot of places ship international and I'd be realllllllllllly iffy on having my block held together with superglue.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

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Ill try to keep it low budget, and waiting for a good second hand offer :). For glue, its just a temporary solution, probably going tomorrow at Turner that we cut(engrave) a new thread (I'm not sure if this is a good expression)

I wouldn't even bother using those Zalman blocks, they are made from aluminum. Save up and find some decent copper/brass/Delrin type blocks for those components instead...or go full aluminum (not recommended).

I bought Omron G5LE-1 relay that will start the pump when the computer is turned.

http://www.pohrani.com/t/3t/Dr/18gFEAzc/dscf6725.jpg

I put radiator on the rear side of case to see if it fits.


http://www.pohrani.com/t/o/mI/3WibCILD/05102010273.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1C/zz/2D2Ccjt2/05102010278.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/c/Lh/h7PUuBg/05102010291.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/X/cO/4hoV3vCT/05102010286.jpg

nice fit :)

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

I wouldn't even bother using those Zalman blocks, they are made from aluminum. Save up and find some decent copper/brass/Delrin type blocks for those components instead...or go full aluminum (not recommended).

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Missing the point of whole my build, since this is my first water cooling, I do not have a goal to have all high end components, and I cant afford them for now. Im satisfied with what I managed to get so far but I appreciate your thoughts about it and I hope that one day have a decent liquid cooling like many others here at XS :up:

Pupo: there are cheaper blocks made from copper & brass aswell. Aluminium component usage was discouraged because of problems those bring like corrosion and such in mixed metal components loop, requiring to use coolants with corrosion inhibitors and such.

How big and dangerous is the problem with corrosion if I use coolant with corrosive protection?

I hope that Zalman did a good coating on the inner side of the block then should not be problems with corrosion.

I manage to find secondhand

EK-FC88 GT for replacing Al Zalman

http://www.pohrani.com/t/2U/pg/3vJjIxpO/dscf6732.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2X/12w/NUVvQIK/dscf6740.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/4/Dp/2IlNR0hI/dscf6741.jpg

i also bought Gardena tubings :)

http://www.pohrani.com/t/3L/h/22dhOGHq/dscf6753.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2N/S8/3zg1Siz0/dscf6757.jpg



http://www.pohrani.com/t/3T/b4/2rUPXoNr/dscf6747.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2s/SP/10Z2WmET/dscf6748.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/3I/Hx/Ce5LNnK/dscf6749.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/3x/za/kVTdT05/dscf6750.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1F/Fg/1QEzMdKO/dscf6751.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/n/X0/1xWuTEpl/dscf6752.jpg

Small update,

I finally managed to assemble loop. For now everything is in the testing phase. When I have time, I agree hoses, cables and fix the pump to case.

http://www.pohrani.com/t/3c/go/4BtG6FS5/dscf6790.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/3E/bs/4QXfe3Ja/dscf6792.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1E/Wv/3EpEAZlH/dscf6795.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/33/TK/2DOGj3Qc/dscf6796.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/H/Qr/4maJdCQu/dscf6803.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/r/3a/2OO13CyP/dscf6804.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1/Mc/316nHpu6/dscf6807.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1b/NP/2Vbny0pG/dscf6810.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2m/3a/2oenlji2/dscf6813.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1f/fR/WqxZmXX/21102010321.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1X/Kq/3ZTCh9eK/21102010323.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2F/Q8/9oNHuS0/21102010328.jpg

Don't listen to ppl bashing products they never used! :p:
I ran a Zalman reserator loop for 6 years with minimal corrosion. It never affected cooling or flow, and the rig is still in perfect working order.
Mixing Alu and other metals is not a great idea, but when all (or most) of the metal is the same it is less of an issue.
Plus the anododising is good and does prevent corrosion.

1048 is a great pump! ive run eheims for over 20 yrs non stop. :up:

Only negative is the rad, gotta agree with WL on this one, TT is rubbish,
i had the same type of rad but 120mm in a TT tribe, the fins are packed so close together barely any air can pass through, and they are very soft and bend and break as u can see.
See how your temps are first, but keep your eyes open for a different 2nd hand one or even a 2nd hand motorbike rad or car heater core would be better. :)

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Originally Posted by Creekin

Don't listen to ppl bashing products they never used! :p:
I ran a Zalman reserator loop for 6 years with minimal corrosion. It never affected cooling or flow, and the rig is still in perfect working order.
Mixing Alu and other metals is not a great idea, but when all (or most) of the metal is the same it is less of an issue.
Plus the anododising is good and does prevent corrosion.

1048 is a great pump! ive run eheims for over 20 yrs non stop. :up:

Only negative is the rad, gotta agree with WL on this one, TT is rubbish,
i had the same type of rad but 120mm in a TT tribe, the fins are packed so close together barely any air can pass through, and they are very soft and bend and break as u can see.
See how your temps are first, but keep your eyes open for a different 2nd hand one or even a 2nd hand motorbike rad or car heater core would be better. :)

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I agree with you about TT radiator and when I get an opportunity, I will replace it. Is it not only problem in fins, tube is very small in diameter, smallest in the entire system and unnecessary reduce water flow.



All in all, for now I'm satisfied with water cooling, although there are room for improvement.

I mount 3 AC F12 PWM vents and connect it to motherboard to CPU PWM connector. On idle and when I watch movies, surf, play dota vents are at 900-950rpm. When start Intel Burn test and Furmark, vents are at full speed ~1350rpm

http://www.pohrani.com/t/1f/zS/43JWz...eenshot002.jpg


http://www.pohrani.com/t/D/kZ/1QpsLpB9/dscf7543.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2D/D5/2JoBJEJ3/dscf7545.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/P/10Y/3LY3GZfC/dscf7549.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1Z/dq/VGlqqwC/dscf7553.jpg


I still have not put cabels in order because I have to buy some snakeskin and heatshrink to sleeve them.

I bought few deltas for fun :)

http://www.pohrani.com/t/3H/5A/2p5MPHqg/dscf7537.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/3f/b1/2m4GJJj2/dscf7541.jpg

yeah i was going to mention the thin tubing in the TT rad also..
buying a bunch of new gear and bolting it in is one thing,
Modding what you have into something that works is alot more challenging and fun!
well done :)

i like your term "snakeskin" it is often called "sleeveing" but i prefer your way :up:

Brilliant start :).

Don't worry about corrosion for now, my guess is youll be swapping that last zalman block before it gets to be a problem anyway.

The eheim doesnt have great flow but its silent and ultra reliable. When you swap that last zalman block out though give the impeller a quick wipe to get rid of any corrosion goo, itll pick up there more than anywhere else.

Like people have said, the TT rad is poo, but its got you started. You can only improve on what you have now but have a fully working system, so like I said, good start :up:.

I agree with what the two people above me said. Though it's not really recommended, I think you'll like liquid cooling enough you'll change out some parts before any corrosion damage can be done. And with a decent corrosion inhibitor it should hold up pretty well.
The reason we don't recommend aluminium+copper even with a good inhibitor is because though there are numerous cases where there wasn't a problem at all, there have been cases where problems did occur, and we're trying to prevent people from getting the problem at all.

I purchased handmade tank, I got it almost for free, but I do not know yet how I'll fit it into this and if I do. But because the price was such, I had to buy it :D


http://www.pohrani.com/t/1V/qX/1V5utwOv/dscf7595.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/7/SY/1zXNlEIw/dscf7598.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/44/oP/1qHJiwbi/dscf7602.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/1t/Xo/45y9HEUX/dscf7599.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/2L/xg/2x31TkTF/dscf7603.jpg http://www.pohrani.com/t/16/PE/2mlkaWa8/dscf7605.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Creekin

yeah i was going to mention the thin tubing in the TT rad also..
buying a bunch of new gear and bolting it in is one thing,
Modding what you have into something that works is alot more challenging and fun!
well done :)

i like your term "snakeskin" it is often called "sleeveing" but i prefer your way :up:

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I usually use term "snakeskin", although I see that in English and here at forum is not be used at all.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PiLsY

Brilliant start :).

Don't worry about corrosion for now, my guess is youll be swapping that last zalman block before it gets to be a problem anyway.

The eheim doesnt have great flow but its silent and ultra reliable. When you swap that last zalman block out though give the impeller a quick wipe to get rid of any corrosion goo, itll pick up there more than anywhere else.

Like people have said, the TT rad is poo, but its got you started. You can only improve on what you have now but have a fully working system, so like I said, good start :up:.

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tnx

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Originally Posted by Alexandr0s

I agree with what the two people above me said. Though it's not really recommended, I think you'll like liquid cooling enough you'll change out some parts before any corrosion damage can be done. And with a decent corrosion inhibitor it should hold up pretty well.
The reason we don't recommend aluminium+copper even with a good inhibitor is because though there are numerous cases where there wasn't a problem at all, there have been cases where problems did occur, and we're trying to prevent people from getting the problem at all.

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When the opportunity arises, I will replace aluminum block. But I think there will not be problems until then. I have ti repair coating on the inside of Zalman bloc where it is damaged or not well coated :down:

Thanks to everyone for the support :up::up:

thats a beautiful res!! who made it?
where can i buy one?!?!?! :D