GTX 470 IHS *Removed*

Hi mate

Here's some
http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/100_3461.jpg

http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s...0/100_3460.jpg

Can i just use it with out IHS *direct contact to the HEAT PIPES*

Can it make any diff ?

removed with 4 blades at the same time?

any damaged parts...

are you testing without ihs?

Nice work pr@$r1g :clap:

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Can i just use it with out IHS *direct contact to the HEAT PIPES*

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Yes, as long as the heatsink still makes good contact

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Originally Posted by CrazyNutz

Yes, as long as the heatsink still makes good contact

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+1


i want to see result :)

The problem is contact area.
I really do not think its good idea to remove IHS on GPUs unless you are putting 3rd party cooling / waterblock on it.
In case of GTX 470, assuming its a reference cooler, only 2 are 3 (that too partially) heatpipes out of 5 will make contact with the core with IHS removed. I really wont already toasty chip like GF100 running like that. It would be different story if you get something like VF3000 or shaman or put it on water.

+1 for water on removed IHS

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Originally Posted by Andrea deluxe

removed with 4 blades at the same time?

any damaged parts...

are you testing without ihs?

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No 4 blades this time :)

Applied heat on top of the IHS at the same time removing the IHS with a screw driver ... it just poped up :p:

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Originally Posted by Olivon

Nice work pr@$r1g :clap:

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Thanks, but can i know anyone(Any link to a particular website/forum) who has done this before.

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Originally Posted by Funky

The problem is contact area.
I really do not think its good idea to remove IHS on GPUs unless you are putting 3rd party cooling / waterblock on it.
In case of GTX 470, assuming its a reference cooler, only 2 are 3 (that too partially) heatpipes out of 5 will make contact with the core with IHS removed. I really wont already toasty chip like GF100 running like that. It would be different story if you get something like VF3000 or shaman or put it on water.

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yap i tested it without IHS noticed that there was no contact between the GPU & heat pipes (Stock Cooler) :shakes:

Its taking so much time for the VF3000F to come to retail :ROTF:

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Originally Posted by Boulard83

+1 for water on removed IHS

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Me too ,But i don't have any kind of water cooling setup :yepp:

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Originally Posted by Boulard83

+1


i want to see result :)

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mate there's no contact between the two

I've delidded my 480 some time ago. No need for the heat you just slice around two corners and twist the blade, popped right off. I didn't really get better temps (w/c) but it handles higher juice way better allowing me to bench at 970Mhz core with 1.27V or so. Could prolly go higher but i'm on gpu-only block and the stock front plate can't handle the VRM's at 1.3V+...

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/6362/img2669f.jpg

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Originally Posted by pr@$r1g

mate there's no contact between the two

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Then put the heaspeader back on duh..:) Take the opportunity to clean it up and put some ceramique in between first:up:

That is exactly the same problem i had, my wb didn't make good contact with the naked die so i applied a fresh blob of tim and glued back the IHS but i was getting really crappy temps do to pretty crappy contact. Had to use a copper shim in the end.

^ u r right man ,temps are really bad ,used to be 48 at idle now at 50 idle :shakes:

I bought this second one for sli ,so i have to rma ... fuk myself

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Originally Posted by QuadDamage

That is exactly the same problem i had, my wb didn't make good contact with the naked die so i applied a fresh blob of tim and glued back the IHS but i was getting really crappy temps do to pretty crappy contact. Had to use a copper shim in the end.

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so did the copper shim help more then IHS ?

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Originally Posted by pr@$r1g

^ u r right man ,temps are really bad ,used to be 48 at idle now at 50 idle :shakes:

I bought this second one for sli ,so i have to rma ... fuk myself

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sand that IHS a bit to make sure it's copper from that 470 GTX.

Yeah because like i said, the IHS that i glued back didn't seem to make a good contact. The shim i'm using now came with some crappy Scythe Setsugen cooler by the way. All i need to do is sand down the stock plate around the core just a little bit and i'll be running direct die again.

If you have a full cover block you won't need to mod anything, just slap the cooler and you're good to go. It's worth it if your water block fits.

:ROTF:Thats crazy :rofl:

No it's not :p:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...ng/coreraw.jpg

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Originally Posted by G H Z

No it's not :p:

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That pic is deadly :)

Just needs a pic with a Tek 9 Fat on there :up:

i will try lapping it at the base will see if any diff :rolleyes:

I only did hw mods when performance or stability goin to be rised.
Up to you guys

MY mods that i did..
Athlon xp1600+ home mod up to Athlon xp2200+ soldering on cpu jumpers using microscop
Some gf6600 graphics, voltage rise
mainboard asus x-600 voltage drop gained stability and speed

^ o wow man u r a free upgrader ,Im thinking the same "Can i make my 470 have 480SP's" :D

yea why not. if may will work, why not.

Sometime ago my dad got ati x800 and with enabling pipelines on inside gpu will make x850 graphics, i fail do do anything it didnt support enableing pipelines but some did with rivatuner some with reflashing flash-bios and some with hw mod using jumpers.

What i do, is wait and grab whats best for money, and before i buy one specific product i go check internet and check if any bad coments being written on products. Then i check what i can do after all... :-D