making custom water blocks

okay
i have an ASUS P5E3 mobo
and i want to OC this new machine when i get it up and running
and im very cautious that the chipset heatsinks will not be able to handle my................. quite possibly over zealous attempt at OCing
so i want to build a custom one piece block for the chipset
so i need your help
how thick is the overall height of the blocks?
i want to use a plexiglass top so that you can see inside and see the coolant
any suggestions on how to 'glue' them together, what would you stay away from and what would you suggest?
any design tips?
i want to use 10mm compression fittings on said block
what is the dia. of the hole that i need to make in the plexi for the threads to get a grip and to seal correctly?
how do i make sure that the block will be low enough to allow the GPU to seat correctly?
i do have some ideas and drawings
but its all just a proto and a top view
if i have left anything else out then let me know
thanks for any help guys

For dimensions I believe EK have specification sheets of all their blocks on their website, you could probably take a look at those.

'glue' is definately the wrong word... Attach perhaps... but anyway screws and rubber washers like any other waterblock.

12,75mm

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Originally Posted by Jamestuk

For dimensions I believe EK have specification sheets of all their blocks on their website, you could probably take a look at those.

'glue' is definately the wrong word... Attach perhaps... but anyway screws and rubber washers like any other waterblock.

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why not an adhesive of some kind?

You can't glue acrylic to copper and have it be leak free. You need a gasket of some kind to prevent leaks.

finding a gasket that will be the correct size will be almost impossible for me
do you think i could get away with making my own of rubber
or something like that?
maybe even useing a bead of automotive RTV sealent in a trough on both sheets to prevent leaks?
do you think that would work?

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Originally Posted by disturbed13

finding a gasket that will be the correct size will be almost impossible for me
do you think i could get away with making my own of rubber
or something like that?
maybe even useing a bead of automotive RTV sealent in a trough on both sheets to prevent leaks?
do you think that would work?

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Not just "possible" or "work" that matters, but better also be "practical".
Sure there are glues, sealant or epoxy that could seal things up,
but r u preparing to make a one-time block that is unable to be dismantled and you have no plan to clean it before dump?
Is this how a water block should behave?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disturbed13

finding a gasket that will be the correct size will be almost impossible for me
do you think i could get away with making my own of rubber
or something like that?
maybe even useing a bead of automotive RTV sealent in a trough on both sheets to prevent leaks?
do you think that would work?

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Use RTV Silicon to seal it up. Always works for gaskets on my cars engine.

I have seen someone create a custom rubber gasket by using a length of round rubber, winding it around the sealing trough of the block, and cutting both ends exactly to length at a 45 degree angle so that the two ends overlap each other. This way you may find an O-ring with a larger diameter than you need, cut it and trim the excess rubber to create your own custom length O-ring.

^ thats a good idea
thanks

how do you want make this block ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disturbed13

finding a gasket that will be the correct size will be almost impossible for me
do you think i could get away with making my own of rubber
or something like that?
maybe even useing a bead of automotive RTV sealent in a trough on both sheets to prevent leaks?
do you think that would work?

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http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=72oqvg

There you go.

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Originally Posted by Duniek

how do you want make this block ?

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i was hoping to have a sheet of copper machined to the required design
then to take a 3mm sheet of plexiglass and make/use gasket material to seal the 2 so that they are water tight
i want to be able to see the liquid flowing thru the block

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Originally Posted by OggeOJ

http://www.mcmaster.com/#o-rings/=72oqvg

There you go.

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is there any way of giving rep?
cuz you sir deserve it

Quote:

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Originally Posted by disturbed13

is there any way of giving rep?
cuz you sir deserve it

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Thought the same thing when I got that linked to me, good stuff indeed.

Note to you, 3mm plexi sounds awfully thin.

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Originally Posted by MegadetHCl

I have seen someone create a custom rubber gasket by using a length of round rubber, winding it around the sealing trough of the block, and cutting both ends exactly to length at a 45 degree angle so that the two ends overlap each other. This way you may find an O-ring with a larger diameter than you need, cut it and trim the excess rubber to create your own custom length O-ring.

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To properly make a O ring the length of O ring material is cut at 90 degrees,not 45 degrees.

There is a simple special tool to cut and glue O rings. They can be made any length and shape you need. There is a special glue (404)too but I found that any Loctite super glue gel works just fine and is available almost ever where.

I'm not at home currently,when I get home and get some time I'll take some pics and show you guy how simple it is to make a O ring of an size and diameter.

Walt

Here's a link to the Loctite kit from Grainger,it has severial O ring diameters, price 99.90. Note just the Loctight 404 adhesive is 26.05 a bottle. It doesn't show the tool or procees to make a O ring.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/ite...pplies-_-5A234

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Originally Posted by OggeOJ

Thought the same thing when I got that linked to me, good stuff indeed.

Note to you, 3mm plexi sounds awfully thin.

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yeah
im still playing with the thickness' of the sheets
5mm seems too thick also
in theory i want more copper so that the whole block will act like a heat sink
and the liquid will take all of the heat that it can possibly take as it goes through the block
thats why i want to go with a thin sheet of plexi and alot of copper
and im expecting to spend some major $$$$

To wdrzal: Great post! I was not speaking from experience by any means. I did see somebody create an O-ring from a cord stock, and as you have pointed out the ends were cut at a right angle. It just seemed to me that two overlapping 45 degree overhangs would reduce the risk of leakage and the joint site. I really wasn't aware that the two ends can be glued together!

To OP: The thickness of the plexi top plays a prominent role in achieving structural integrity, resistance to cracking, and ability to generate good quality tapped holes for your fittings. If you go with a 3mm plexi thickness, you run a high chance of cracking the top or introducing hairline cracks during drilling of the fitting holes, and may only squeeze two 360 degree turns with your tap, therefore increasing the chance the the thread might get stripped or damaged when you'll try to screw in your fittings. There has to be a good reason why most commercially produced plexi top are about half an inch thick! Again, I'm not talking from experience, just sharing my thoughts on the subject.

that is a good point
how well do you think 5mm would fair in the tapping process?

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Originally Posted by disturbed13

that is a good point
how well do you think 5mm would fair in the tapping process?

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Still too thin.

do you have a recommendation?

10mm min, preferred 12mm to 15mm

. . .and use quality polycarb (Lexan, Hyzod), not cheap acrylic.

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

10mm min, preferred 12mm to 15mm

. . .and use quality polycarb (Lexan, Hyzod), not cheap acrylic.

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+1, steer clear of acrylic.