xtreeme - a contribute to our dead redback spider

Hi all.
First of all my crew and I was a victim for "identity theft", we threw out one guy in our organization since he wasn't particular "customer friendly".
After we threw him out we found that he has been registering on several forums - pretending to be one of the remaining staff - and in particular me.
We need a lot of "customer awareness" since we partly live of building high performance workstations and gaming rigs.
It's not a big business - it's only something we do in our sparetime - but even so we have expenses that has to be paid and so on.
So a bad reputation can - and WILL hurt us. It's no point in discussing this any more - since we now have give him the alternative to face us in the court - or stfu.

So I have decided to present my own rig here, I am a fan of performance (overclocking friendly) before looks - but have always been looking for a reasonable balance beetween the two - with performance as number 1.

My rig is built in honour to Norways one and only known Australian Redback spider - a spider which we kept in a herbarium at our workshop/office for 2 years before it died.

http://tokyo5.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/redback.jpg

This little fella is one of the most poisonous spiders in the world.

Cabinet is a Tagan A+ Black Pearl - the cabinet is made by LianLi for Tagan - and is more or less a clone of the V1000 (LianLi actually came with V2000 after they made BlackPearl for Tagan - the inside of the V2000 are very similar to Black Pearl).
Somethings is better with LianLi's V1000/V2000 - and somethings is better with Tagan A+ BlackPearl - they are excellent for a watercooling setup, for my choice of cooling gear Tagan A+ was a better choice than LL V-1000/V2000.

Our spider's herbarium had three walls painted black - and with a "marble finish" - that's the reason why the Tagan A+ cabinet inside is painted like you see here

Modifications to the Tagan A+ that is done is ; compartments is isolated, original fancontroller is removed and is modified to accommodate aftermarket 5 1/4 bay hardware. The Tagan A+ is also modified with a 120mm hole in the front, two holes for bulkhead (panelmount) adapters for CPU cooling, four fillports in the front (left side of upper 5 1/4" bays).
Bottom in lower compartment is sealed off - I will come back to the reason of this later ;)

6x SSD's will be mounted in the lowest 5 1/4" bay - in a modified (UN)Designs X Bracket Horizontal, these will run in Raid0 on a Areca 1680ix (4GB) controller.
I am not gonna start a "hardware picture thread" with a lot of pictures which I belive it is a dedicated thread for that too ?
A lot of things might - and will change here - but I aim to be finished within a week with this project. The project was stacked 3 months ago because of lack of time, so a lot of the parts is already in house (most likely all parts is in house).

So with this modifications I belive I have a good starting point for a wc setup.


http://i45.tinypic.com/11j9j46.jpg

In the lower compartment there will be two radiators and three pumps (plus the PSU), for CPU cooling a Feser Monsta with 6 140 mm fan's.
Tagan A+ is so wide and long that there are no problem installing a Feser Monsta - and even leave place for a 120mm radiator in front of it !

Detailed info comes about the components choosen when the project goes forward.
But here is the sidepanels - modified with 140mm holes;
Right hand side (or intake side) :
http://i47.tinypic.com/2vjwj5v.jpg

Lefthand side (or exhaust side) :
http://i50.tinypic.com/umsly.jpg


NB: the white "dots" you see is after I removed the masking tape - some dremelaction to make the holes perfect remains.

/off to party...

Okay, I'm sure this is gonna be a great build and all... (I love Black Pearl builds) but if you want people to actually, y'know, look at this worklog, you might not wanna have a rather large picture of a black widow on the first post.
Kinda scared me when I opened the page, lol.

Looking very nice. Interested to see what you do with this pup. I'm not good with spiders... well.... when I don't know they're there... and see them scurry!

I know how important rep is to s smaller company. We had a member of staff who did the same pretty much, upset a lot of customers, caused us a lot of grief. Sadly we are no more in the climate...

~Bex

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ButtSprinkles

Okay, I'm sure this is gonna be a great build and all... (I love Black Pearl builds) but if you want people to actually, y'know, look at this worklog, you might not wanna have a rather large picture of a black widow on the first post.
Kinda scared me when I opened the page, lol.

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ohh .. hehe :) sorry if I scared you !

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Main

ohh .. hehe :) sorry if I scared you !

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Ha, no prob. :D

As said I removed the original fancontroller, it is now replaced with Scythe Kaze Server fancontroller instead.
This controller will measure water temperature in the outlet from the CPU and motherboard loop via two Bitspower temperature sensors (connected in a Bitspower "Q" fitting) and control 6x LianLi 140mm 1200rpm fans on the Feser Monsta radiator. I need to control the exhaust fans (red leds LianLi) and the supply fans (blue leds LianLi) independently of course.
The Feser monsta will be laying sideways - PSU backplate is modified so that the PSU is mounted above the Monsta.

The third channel of the Scythe Kaze Server fancontroller will be used to measure water temperature in the GPU/MB loop and control 2x 120mm SilenX IXP-74-14 Ixtrema Pro 72CFM (this is the GOOD SilenX fans :) ).
After much testing I decided to go for Magicool Elegant 240mm copper radiator with integrated reservoir ( test of magicool 240mm )
The Magicool Elegant 240mm copper radiator with integrated reservoir for GPU/MB will be mounted in top of the cabinet (SilenX - red leds - fans in suck conf.)

Last channel will be used to control the third loop in this system the PSU - Koolance 1700W Liquid-Cooled Power Supply, Rev 1.5 / 1700W since I have 240V and 20 amp fuse for the computerrrom.
This loop have a Magicool Elegant 120mm copper radiator with integrated reservoir and one 120mm SilenX IXP-74-14 Ixtrema Pro 72CFM.
This radiator will be mounted in the lower compartment - in front of the Feser Monsta and the SilenX fan - red led - will have a suck. conf.

So in other words - both the Monsta and the 120mm Magicool get their air from the right side of the cabinet - and whilst the Monsta exhaust the airflow out an left side - the Magicool 120mm for PSU will exhaust in front of the cabinet.

Might be a bit confusing all this above - but I assure you - all this is tested thoroughly in advance.
Worklogs that goes over 2-3-4-5-6 months is not my thing - so I decided to build my computer first - test it - rip it apart again and do the final adjustments/order more parts and THEN start a worklog :) (and I know I'm not gonna s*hit my leg either :D )

http://i50.tinypic.com/v6rour.jpg

Fancontroller is glued with Tec7 - one of the strongest glues I am aware off .. will have to dry until tomorrow !

If anyone have any GOOOOOD suggestions - time is now - tomorrow I will start the build.

Edit; seems like my 5970 is further delayed so I will have to run 4850x2 (watercooled of course) until it arrives :(

interesting, subd :up:

Looking good. Can't wait to see what you do with this.

thanks guys :up:

I just popped the other fancontroller in - it will be used to control 2x140 mm LianLi and 2x 120 mm SilenX IXP-74-14 Ixtrema Pro 72CFM (maybe they will be replaced with 140mm fans on 120-140mm adapter...

Anyway - this controller is a Aerocool 2000 touchscreen with 4 channels, the odd thing is that the controllers faceplate does not fit inside 5.25" bays.
It looks like Aerocool has constructed it so the faceplate will be on the outside of the drive bays :shrug:

http://i46.tinypic.com/2ivhgtu.jpg


Maybe this is done to hinder the controller beeing accidently pushed in to the drive bay when operating the touchscreen :confused:


ohh I just realized how dusty all the parts is,,,, no wonder since all the parts has been lying in my workshop for months.
Really see no point in cleaning all parts now - I will do the cleaning and polishing when the build is finished :)

Just found out that Techflex PET Cable Sleeving S U X X :(

no need for further explanation why since the picture tell the whole story

http://i49.tinypic.com/n3ao2r.jpg

2 words, Murdermod Sleeving =P

It does look unique though and I imagine the flash does bring out the colors a bit more than they are in real life, I say leave as is.

I don't know that it "sucks" - it gives a nice frosty look to the cables, I think. But if that's not the look you're going for then.. yeah..

ohh well frosty look it is then :D

Not gonna do the job one more time, this sleeving job took me almost 2 hours :mad:
Otherwise that I got a "frosty look" instead of white cables the job turned out perfect

Don't change it, that is a very nice unique look :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Main

Just found out that Techflex PET Cable Sleeving S U X X :(

no need for further explanation why since the picture tell the whole story

http://i49.tinypic.com/n3ao2r.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Antioch

I don't know that it "sucks" - it gives a nice frosty look to the cables, I think. But if that's not the look you're going for then.. yeah..

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actually yeah when i saw that pic i was like neat it gives it a nice frosty rainbowish look but not for everyone

yay - I keep the cables like this, just finished 8p cables and some 3 pin fan extenders.

Don't have sleeving to do the round sata cables or the sas breakout cable :( - it will have to come later.

This rig is gonna get up running within 7-8 days, I'm soooo "overclocking thirsty" atm :p:
I had this pup running at 4,7GHz stable with Coollaboratory Liqud Pro, so I have "invested" in indigo xtreme in hope to get another 100MHz ? out of it.
I have tested it with the indigo xtreeme - but I didn't really have the time at that moment to tweak the system more
One thing that concerns me with the Koolance psu is that I can't get access to the pots to adjust rails if needed. I like to have all my voltages a bit above "normal" :p:


thx guys !

Last update from me this sunday evening ; couldn't find space for the fillports I have (DD) - so I decided to do it "my way"

http://i49.tinypic.com/105e82p.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/t6f5t4.jpg

The nipples is 1/4" and 1/4" clear tygon waterlines will be used (easy to check waterlevel) :yepp:

Psu is a Koolance 1300/1700W Liquid-Cooled Power Supply, Rev 1.5

This is a updated model updated after [H]ard overclocked potato did review it.


http://i47.tinypic.com/1zlf3vt.jpg


The PSU mountingplate is modified so that a 120mm radiator can be mounted here (red single arrow) for future use. (The bolts for radiator mounting will be removed for now).

The powersupply will rest upon the Feser Monsta radiator - to avoid vibration I will put a sheet of cellrubber (black cloth as can be seen in the picture) under the Monsta and between the Monsta and Koolance PSU. In addition a PSU silencer silicone gasket is installed between the PSU and the PSU mounting plate.

I did also use a Lian Li Power Supply Bracket which is very sturdy - to stiffen up the original PSU mounting plate - thus I had to make my own bolts to mount the PSU.

IF I need more space in the lower compartment I have the possibility to use a Lian Li Power Supply Bracket Extender

I didn't think it was so much work involved before I was satisfied with the PSU arrangement :rolleyes:

Massive power supply! Im very intressted to see where you take this build. Keep the updates roling in! =)

Thank you Anemic :up:

As previously said I have been testing this system for some time (and in different configurations).

I don't need a reservoir for the Feser Monsta - nor for the Magicool's for that matter, but I wanted some visual pr0n so I bought a Tecnofront Visual Trap Reservoir

I always test all wc components for leaks with a Aqua Medic Oceanrunner OR6500 {6500 l.p.h. (1625 g.p.h.) / 3.8mtr (12,5ft.) head}.

The Tecnofront Visual Trap Reservoir is leaking badly (arrow) :(

http://i46.tinypic.com/67p5ao.jpg

So I will order a new reservoir (NOT Technofront :ROTF: ) so I guess the delay will be around a week before I can start the system again.

But the build itself will continue :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Main

Just found out that Techflex PET Cable Sleeving S U X X :(

no need for further explanation why since the picture tell the whole story

http://i49.tinypic.com/n3ao2r.jpg

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you could put some white tape on your cables first. it would look like that with techflex pet
http://www.abload.de/thumb/_mg_8286pwh.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tremeloes

you could put some white tape on your cables first. it would look like that with techflex pet
http://www.abload.de/thumb/_mg_8286pwh.jpg

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ahh yeah put on tape before sleeving them - nice tip :up: - I will keep that in mind to my next project :)

Anyway we were three guys sitting in my kitchen , drinking coffee/tea and we did all agree on one thing - I gave this project a wrong name ! The sleeving and the internal marble painting gives a frosty look - so the name should have been something frosty like :)

I am gonna take high quality pictures with my DSLR when the project is finished so you better see what I mean :)

http://i49.tinypic.com/2a4z9s7.jpg

1ea. 120mm Demco filter
2ea. 120mm fangaskets
1ea. Spider fangrill
1ea. Magicool 120mm radiator
1ea. C-Systems 12 V pump
1ea. 120mm SilenX IXP-74-14 Ixtrema Pro 72cfm - red leds (impeller painted white)
1/2" PrimoFlex Pro UV White Tubing
White Primochill AntikinkCoils
1/4" Tygon for fillport
1ea. Silver KillCoil
2ea. drops :rofl: Nuke PHN
Temperature sensor
8ea. BP rotary connectors
1ea BP T connector
1ea. BP male<->male connector
2ea. 45 degree Koolance connectors for fillport/bleeding (1/4" nipple)
4ea. Black fanscrews
2ea. Koolance bulkhead connectors (1/2" nipple)

Can do the same loop with two BP rotary's less by connecting the pump direct into the radiator.

Some parts list just for the PSU cooling ! :ROTF: