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ok now baker asked me to show some pics on how to brase one of his blocks...
this is how i do it.
first you recieve a baker block it is clean,i do nothing more than just take a abrasive surface cleaning pad and rub it down.
the first place i brase is the brass threaded fitting to the top..
now guys dont reply to this post until i have finished uploading pics..it will take me a while ok.
i brase ontop of a stove or hot plate...just works easier for me..keeps a even heat to the copper so the torch doesnt have to work as hard.
i use DYNAFLOW self fluxing brasing rods,these work great and will brase copper to copper,and copper to brass..(very important)
first i start with the top of the evap.where the brass threaded fitting is screwed in..
i place it on the hot plate and let it get as hot as possable.
ok i apply my torch and start getting the top up to brasing temp
well once the copper top is hot enough the rod will begin to flow like water and start a wicking action that draws it into a crack..
that why i use these rods...no manual fluxing...these rods make it look easy..which it is.
ok next i move to the base and center section
.here i have to crank up the heat because of the copper mass,but only a few minutes and it will be hot enough
well a few minutes later and the block is hot enough,and the rod flows like water and is drawn to the joint...
i slowly let the rod gently melt around the section making sure it is complety done,
next after i have brased to lower section i place the top on and heat it up ,only a few minites and the block is up to temp again.
then i start letting the rod do the work.it will draw itself into the joint,no forcing is nessary.it will almost brase itself.
ok now i heat the entire block to make sure it is uniform heated and there is good rod and flux contact.
ok the block now is completly brased and i let cool.
now i have tested bakers blocks well over 500psi for days at a time,and they are strong as steel when brased like this.
you can use flux and a silver based lead solder.which i have used but it can take time because you will need to tin all metal surfaces before hand if you want a good joint contact,this is where you flux each joint and solder a layer to all joints,then heat them all and assemble as one and solder.
the pressure rating of the block will be lower,although i have not had a leak from solder based joints except where there wasnt a fitted joint in the copper block.
always flatten the base of the evaperator after brasing and not before.because it will warp slightly during the brasing process so flattening the bottom before hand would be a waste of time.
i usally remill mine ,but a good flat file ,and then hand lapping with 240grit,then 400 grit,then 600 grit..then polish with compound will give you the best possable surface..
small tip guys....get a small piece of glass(out of a old picture frame works nice) and place your sandpaper on it.this assures you have a perfectly flat surface ,since 99% of all glass plates are very flat.
ok i hope this small guide helps out
bowman
nice guide and pics there bowman :)
how about a guide on putting this on ur prommy hehehe
How do you install the cap tube?
Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
How do you install the cap tube?
ha ha,,:D i wondered who would ask that....
baker has the center section dilled to a excate spec that is a snug fitt for .028 cap tubing.it is easy the cap tubing will slide into the hole with a little bit of twisting.it can be easily measured from the outside.the end next to the cold plate is slightly small to keep the cap tub from going all the way though.
I'm from Missouri (Michigan actually), show me. :D
Thinking I would tin the side of the cap tube with a little soft solder, then stick it in there while the block was still hot. I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy.
doh..... i had to drill my hole a lil bigger to fit the .031 cap tube and i drilled the whole all the way through. how would you recommend on attatching the cap tube to the block to seal the bottom from the top so i might be able to remove the cap tube in the future? also very nice how too. this hjelped me out alot.
danng Gary:(
if i had thought about it i would have taken a pic before hand....it really is a nice way to do it.i wondered myself at first.but it fits real nice.i just make sure i have no slack in the hose when i brase the exiting cap tube.
i am out of unbrased blocks right now.but it works good,maybe baker can post us a pic of the cap tube fitting in the center section.
and i gave up putting a small dab of solder like you were thinking about,it always ran to the end of the cap tube for me on my blocks,but my blocks didnt have the cap tubing fitt his do.
if needed,because of drilling the hole larger
one thing you may think about,is i used to take a spring loaded center punch and place it next to the cap tube going in the block,one punch close to the cap tube snuggs it very well if need be.
Why is it purple? :eek:Quote:
Originally posted by bowman1964
ok the block now is completly brased and i let cool.
it is sorta....HOT:DQuote:
Originally posted by Slickthellama
Why is it purple? :eek:
Great job Bowman...............
I'll post some pictures of the cap tube inside the block later tonight.
baker18
you know i would take the time to help you my friend...:DQuote:
Originally posted by baker18
Great job Bowman...............
I'll post some pictures of the cap tube inside the block later tonight.
baker18
anytime...just ask.:D
and i have high detail pics for you also...i knew you would proberly need them for the store.
what type of tourch is in the pics
Incredible job bowman. This thread needs to be a sticky
bowman,
Nice work, but OUTSTANDING pictures :D
C
Thank you!