My waterblock design

Hello guys,
I'm designing a copperblock to cool my dlt3c 1800+
It 'll be made with a CNC machine, but for now, I'm still in the thinking/designing fase.
I'll show you some drawings I made, and explain how it works. (The block has a top part, and a bottom part,
both in copper, i made a drawing of both, viewed from the side and the top)
(btw I dont know yet which pump, what fittings and rad i will use)



http://users.pandora.be/plvl/ikke/bl...ideviewtop.jpg
So this is the top, on which you see the holes to mount the block to the mobo, and to hold the top part and bottom part
togheter. But what's more important: Below the inlet, there is an "adapter" to change the waterflow. Just below were you screw in the fittings (fittings are drawn above the block, so not screwed in) the diameter is the same as the inner diameter of the fitting and changes from a round opening to a square opening, with the dimensions of the core. So the water will strike the bottom part of the block in the shape of the core. The "gateway" to the outlets is nothing special.



http://users.pandora.be/plvl/ikke/bl...topviewtop.jpg
Here you can see how the "adapter" works.
Btw: The distances between the holes are 66,09 and 36,14 actually



http://users.pandora.be/plvl/ikke/bl...viewbottom.jpg
note: the arrows and lines above the fat line aren't offcoure part of the block ;-)
So here you see how the water comes down, and strikes the finn's of the block, and is led to the outer outlets (i made
the bottom profile in that rounded shape to improve the water flow, you notice i marked the |out-to-in| distance, i think that the bigger this distance is, the better the water can flow (since the profile is better then))
The fins end just below where the outlet starts. (which is more clear ind the drawing below)



http://users.pandora.be/plvl/ikke/bl...viewbottom.jpg
Here you see in - - - lines the shape of the core, so the area where the water strikes on.
The water is led away to the sides and go to the outlets.

What do you think of the block?
Btw I need to know how the core is placed in comparision with the 4 mounting holes. I heard the size is about 11x7mm so that will do.


Topic at Procooling

Looks very nice. How big are the fins going to be?

Uuhm, like 2mm width, I guess :)

Thats gona be one helluva block to machine! but I`ll think it will preform wery well. Onluy wish I had proper CNC macine when I was making my own blocks.

the best thing is to make a Dtek WW clone
http://www.dtekcustoms.com/ProductIm...W-Polydiag.jpg

Actually, I think my design is better...:D
But I'ld like some expert opinions about it, though.

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Originally posted by Teus
the best thing is to make a Dtek WW clone...

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Yeah, that is exactly what Danger Den did with the RBX :rolleyes:

Not much interest in waterblock design discussions?

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Originally posted by Dieter@be
Not much interest in waterblock design discussions?

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A few years ago you couldn't shut me up on the design aspects of WB's. Now it's alot different, theres some darn good products on the market that work well and are realitively inexpensive.
Doesn't make much sense to me anymore trying to fab one up to test when it's nearly impossible to beat comercially available units.

first off, that block would be easy as pie to do. maybe thirty lines or so the only thing you have to do is find or get a endmill ground down to that size then you just go back and forth to the desired z depth. my question is (standing from both a machinest and someone in collage to get his mech. engeering degree) where's the oring how are you going to seal that baby up? and your only going to use 4 bolts to seal it up (not enought imo) well looks like a promising waterblock. if you can clean up the drawings a little. and put a little more thought into it.

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Originally posted by Dieter@be
Not much interest in waterblock design discussions?

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Dare I say it, ProCooling seems to be one of the only places now where you will get a hella lot of answers in this kind of thread. There are a lot of people over there who have a lot of experience with designing and making their own waterblocks.

Craig

Why not just get a Dtek WW ??

its proven to be good when lapped and not all that costly??


just wondering

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Originally posted by iboomalot
Why not just get a Dtek WW ??

its proven to be good when lapped and not all that costly??


just wondering

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I can think of several improvements to the WW (that my block has) :
a)the bottom rounded instead of flat to increase flow rate
b) pushing the water on the bottom in the shape of the core, instead of "just a shape" btw If i see some pix of the inlet of that block you can imagine some real turbulence in there, if you look to my "top part" you see that it is like a fan adapter, neatly changing the dimension of the flow-through-part.
c) the canals/fins designed to get the water as good to the outlets as possible (see drawing)

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Originally posted by thetruememphis
where's the oring how are you going to seal that baby up? and your only going to use 4 bolts to seal it up (not enought imo)

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I was planning to do it without an O-ring, I thought some silicone betwee n the copper parts would do...
And the 4 bolts are just a "proposal". I'll do it with 6 bolts then :) For such matters i made this topic, to discuss about such things, do you think that if i do silicone between the copper parts, and bolt it very tightly togheter, its not leakproof?

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Originally posted by thetruememphis
if you can clean up the drawings a little. and put a little more thought into it.

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Yeah i'll draw a V2 in autocad, when there is some stuff to improve (eg 6 bolts instead of 4) and when I learn how to use autocad (luckely we learn that at school :p )

When I first heard about the Cascade I had a very wrong impression of it... so I drew up a "much better" version. Then I got my cascade and it turns out it is pretty much identicle to the specs I drew up (Although mine would be much harder to make as I designed it to be made with tools I had available which didn't include a machine shop). Mine had a bit more turbulance as well... but it would have demolished flowrate. I doubt anything under 6ft of head could even run a rig on the block I drew up. (It used dozens (I forget the exact number) 1/8" length of 1/32 or 1/64" copper piping and had the water quite literally reversing direction as soon as it hit the block. I still believe my idea would perform a little better. But it would be damn near impossible to make (Even I figured I'd spend a week of vacation time just sizing and fitting the parts... include actual assembly time and it would be a huge undertaking.) And the performance difference would be so minimal... it's not even worth the time I'd spend on it.

I've never owned a whitewater... but supposedly cascade is only a couple degrees better than it for most people. Maze 3 to cascade gave me a very noticable drop. I didn't do anything scientific... but I'd say 5-10*C.

I dont get what your trying to say, or do just tell your story without a real point?

Can you post pics of your block?

It was along the lines of what Poki was saying. Save your time and money. Odd's are you won't beat what you can buy.

And as I said. I never made the block. I gave up when it became clear the undertaking would be more effort than it was worth and bought a cascade. And trust me... you don't want to rip off my idea. It involved several dozen minute solders in an array. It would take hours or even days with a torch and be extremely easy to misalign something. A ww ripoff is damn easy. If you are set on building a block... make one of those.

I think my block resembles the WW in some aspects, but there are some differences and I believe those make my block better...

Btw my friend (who works in a metal-"work" "factory" (damn i dont know the word for it ;)) told me it would be about 70€ (thats about 70$) to make the two copper pieces...