Silver Cascade (2 x 1 HP) with bypass valve

Hi

One more cascade with two C-1RN110H5A compressors (1 HP each one) . This time unit is cased, case is powdercoated (color weissaluminium), condensor is big one - 4.8 kW with 2 x 254 mm fans 230V powered. First time I've used bypass valve (made from Castel 1/4' valve) - to make evap's temperature bit higher if that's needed . Rest is "standart" ;).

Specs :

compressors: 2 x C-1RN110H5A
evap: steeper
XV: ALCO TI-HW / captube 0.9 mm
HX: plate HX , 12 plates
condenser: 4.8 Kw, alu-cu, cooled by 2x 254mm/230V fan
refrigerants : R507/R1150
oilseparator : Shine Year automatic
safety : Johnson controls cut-off, Fach 1.5l expansion tank
case : Laser cutted and powder coated case (weissaluminium) 69 x 69 x 54 cm, wheels
others: Bypass valve - Castel handvalve, 4*REFCO panel gauges, ANACONDA shocks absorber on 1st stage suction line, Dixell XR20CX controller (turn on 2nd stage automatically when 1st stage is enought cold), black coated pipes, 350mm fan on back wall, cork sound insulation.

Cascade isn't finished already ... :)


http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/1.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/2.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/3.jpg

Case isn't naked from inside :D.

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/4.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/5.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/6.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/7.jpg

Knob's fitting :p:.

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/8.jpg

Bypass is veeery simple but I hope it'll be working .

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...ver12btu/9.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/10.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/11.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/12.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/13.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/14.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/15.jpg

In 5*C workshop without insulation...

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/16.jpg

Loaded @260W first try .

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/17.jpg

Leak detectors which I've used (not all 3 in same places of course ;)) . I can say Wigam's is the best, also Amasan is very good (not on this photo) .

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/18.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/19.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...er12btu/20.jpg

Big fat insulation on 1st stage :cool:.

Will be continued ...

With Kindest Regards
Peter

Damn good looking work once again! :up:

jesus looking sweet!

Another nice one Peter. :clap:
All the pictures are not loading for me:(

Very nice looking unit. Can't wait to see how it does with a cpu.

how should you controll your hotgas bypass? :D
i mean if you are benching you are not able to adjust your temperature.
the rotary will love the hotgas and will die from overheating :D

we did some tests in the last days:

http://www.extremecooling.net/index/...0_img_2669.jpg

http://www.extremecooling.net/index/...ug_cascade.wmv

the hotgas bypass will increase discharge and compressor temp.

in my opinion the best solution ist to do a bypass after the plate hx. install a t fitting and a mgv (magnetic valve) to push the liquid refrigerant in the suction line or the phasesep of the rotary. there it can evaporate, raises suction pressure, cool the rotary and also raises evap temp. your rotary would rather prefer this method ;)

the painting of your copper pipes doesn´t look very proper.

For painting I don't know what do You mean ? I used paint spray which is not smooth but have "plastic effect" , also pipes on desuperheaters are not covered in 100% becasue of better heat transfer without paint .

About bypass - valve mounted in way which I do will also for sure rise suction pressure . About discharge pressure - IMO it'll be lower when valve will be opened but I need to test it first to be sure :).

With MGV You don't have possibility of tuning flow at all, handvalve allow small regulation . What captube You used after/before MGV in way which You wrote ?

Your way maybe is good but from what I think now only for rotatries, for normal compressors it'll cause floodback.

Regards
Peter

i would use a short piece of 2mm captube after the mgv.

you can use a refrigeration controller to controll the mgv. the controller should only be very fast, so you cannot use ptc or ntc sensors. so it doesn´t matter that you cannot controll the mgv manually, because the ref controller does the job automatically ;)

you can install a phase seperator in every unit, so this won´t only work for rotarys with build in phasesep. a normal hermetique or even a rotary compressor doesn´t like to get hot gas from the suction line.
it´s only a hint, but you can make your on experiences.

well in mine way that won't be hot gas, but I think sth like 25C gas (near to ambient) - gas will be cooled by desuperheated and oilseparator (it's big and cooled by fan as You can see) .

Using MGV and controller is A LOT more complicated than just handvalve . Easier and another way for bypass is just using CPEV feeding evaporator with small amount of gas .

Patrick, please say more about mine painting work on pipes , becasue You've begin this topic .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by piotres

Patrick, please say more about mine painting work on pipes , becasue You've begin this topic .

---

take a look from the bottom on the pipes, there you can see the cooper.
this is not my taste, but if you like the way it looks it´s ok.
taste differs :D
i wouldn´t paint the pipes an if so i would paint them completely

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Patrickclouds

take a look from the bottom on the pipes, there you can see the cooper.
this is not my taste, but if you like the way it looks it´s ok.
taste differs :D
i wouldn´t paint the pipes an if so i would paint them completely

---

Hmm, it doesnt look that bad imo. Okay there are some parts not 100% painted.
But in the end the whole unit is going to be covered into the case.... :p:



Great work Peter, cant wait to see this beauty next to his brother and sister :D

patrick i agree with you, but not perfect painting looks 10x better, in a year or two from now, then ugly brown pipes!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Patrickclouds

the rotary will love the hotgas and will die from overheating :D

the hotgas bypass will increase discharge and compressor temp.

---

Hot gas by pass is used widely in refrigeration and AC.

Rotary compressors are not cooled by suction and are prepared to work at discharge temp.

On topic: Nice cascade! For the antivibration dampner (you call it anaconda lol) to be able to do its job you would need to fix the end side of it.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by teyber

patrick i agree with you, but not perfect painting looks 10x better, in a year or two from now, then ugly brown pipes!

---

True ;). Color will be same even after 3 years, good idea for people who like shiny pipes is also clear coating .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by piotres

True ;). Color will be same even after 3 years, good idea for people who like shiny pipes is also clear coating .

---

I agree piotres. Another great unit Piotres, your work always impresses me.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by piotres

True ;). Color will be same even after 3 years, good idea for people who like shiny pipes is also clear coating .

---

I actually plan on clear coating the pipes on my upcoming build :up: I don't know if it was a previous build of yours but some European builder had his pipes clear coated and I thought it was amazing :yepp:

i know piotres has clear coated a couple of his builds

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by [XC] gomeler

I actually plan on clear coating the pipes on my upcoming build :up: I don't know if it was a previous build of yours but some European builder had his pipes clear coated and I thought it was amazing :yepp:

---

This one ? :p:

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...de_blue/19.jpg

http://www.members.lycos.co.uk/piotr...de_blue/20.jpg

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=199565

When you polished your pipe work for that build piotres, what was your polishing routine?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sgrios

When you polished your pipe work for that build piotres, what was your polishing routine?

---

But in what build - in cascade showed here (silver one) ? well first I had plan to stay them natural cooper ...

The one you posted for gomeler. Looks like you polished the pipes or just the brazed joints, than clear coated?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sgrios

The one you posted for gomeler. Looks like you polished the pipes or just the brazed joints, than clear coated?

---

First I've cleaned brazing points by steel-wire brush, then polish pipes and brazing points together with polishing paste (before that I also polished driers using water sandpaper) - I always make it this way :yepp:.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by piotres

First I've cleaned brazing points by steel-wire brush, then polish pipes and brazing points together with polishing paste (before that I also polished driers using water sandpaper) - I always make it this way :yepp:.

---

Thank you very much piotres. You did such a great job, I really wanted to know your method. :)

Great build, Peter. I like the case, too. Kind of reminds me of older Lian Li (PC-60 and alike).... :D
Temps do also impress. *mewants*

AMAZING WORK AGAIN m8 :D

When I get THE MONEY im sending them your way for sure :D