Eddy - what on earth is up with the EK-FC280?

Got one of these sitting here unused because I'm too scared! Reading all the horror stories of fried cards has left me full of dread. It also seems that it's nearly impossible to get the stock sink off the card without damaging it which means if I do fry my card, I'm not likely to be able to RMA it.

Also, there seems to be at least three different versions of this block:

1. "snail" headed with all copper at other end
2. without snail head with all copper at other end
3. snail headed but with odd black piece at other end attached with screw

What's the difference between these cards? (I have number 3) Why are so many people reporting fried cards?

Vertigo1, I recently bought one of these blocks (its still on the way) so I did a bit of reading about this problem and it seems that it stems from the thermal pads NOT being used on the chip under the snail head and in one other location as well.

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/downloa...stallation.pdf may be of some help if you havent found it already.

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Originally Posted by Vertigo1

Got one of these sitting here unused because I'm too scared! Reading all the horror stories of fried cards has left me full of dread. It also seems that it's nearly impossible to get the stock sink off the card without damaging it which means if I do fry my card, I'm not likely to be able to RMA it.

Also, there seems to be at least three different versions of this block:

1. "snail" headed with all copper at other end
2. without snail head with all copper at other end
3. snail headed but with odd black piece at other end attached with screw

What's the difference between these cards? (I have number 3) Why are so many people reporting fried cards?

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I bought a GTX 280 and this block and it was a snap... with the right tools. Removing the stock heatsink requres time and a really small flat headed screwdriver. By small I mean the kind you get for repairing glasses and the like. Insert it in the shroud and slowly try to pry the top off. There are tabs to be unlocked so you just have to find them and slowly pop them apart.

Just take your time and do not apply too much pressure. Mine came apart and looks brand new. Also heat the sticker up with a hair dryer that covers all the screws up and it will peel off like it was never off.

When applying the block common sense is the ticket. Apply TIM and seat the block without appling too much pressure again and make sure that the termal pads are placed correctly. then remove the block and check the footprint to see if even munt was accheived.

I think too many people rush through this process from sheer excitement and trouble follows.

Thanks for that, so it's the i/o chip nearest the backplate which is the critical one which may have been failing for some people? Interesting that the original version only had a small "tab" of copper which covered this whereas the newer snail one has extra mounts, presumably to ensure better contact.

It seems that the original was designed with the concern of people crushing that chip, hence the gap and need to use the thermal pad.

I am not sure how the block has evolved myself but I am sure there is a good reason why it is like it is now ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vertigo1

Got one of these sitting here unused because I'm too scared! Reading all the horror stories of fried cards has left me full of dread. It also seems that it's nearly impossible to get the stock sink off the card without damaging it which means if I do fry my card, I'm not likely to be able to RMA it.

Also, there seems to be at least three different versions of this block:

1. "snail" headed with all copper at other end
2. without snail head with all copper at other end
3. snail headed but with odd black piece at other end attached with screw

What's the difference between these cards? (I have number 3) Why are so many people reporting fried cards?

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My take on it would be:

Original concept, snail no tail. Did this ever make it out? Can't say I've seen any.

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/7...achmentfs1.jpg
http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/2497/ekfc280gtxvc7.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/8...280gtxbau2.jpg
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/1...achmentqt7.jpg

Version 2. Looks like original with a tail. Retro fitted old stock after missing the seventh chip?
Or maybe trying to keep the billet width down? Personally purely from a design pov, I'm not keen
on that cantilever contact to the seventh chip with one screw to maintain pressure and thermal transfer,
sure it works fine though.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/3...talver1gy4.jpg
http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/7...020698snb5.jpg
http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/9...020699sbc7.jpg

Version 1? Looks more like a redesign (version 3 :p:), but hey.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1...0gtx002cd2.jpg
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/7...0gtx003ly3.jpg

Wel I've had an email reply from Eddy saying the snail-head was a revision to ensure better contact with the chip nearest the backplate, which suggest the last of your pictures was an early revision where a simple "tab" of copper protruded for this chip - perhaps it didn't make good enough contact?

Of course if this is the case and the bottom pic is the earliest revision then why does it have the best design at the other end with the copper block extending over the furthest chip? You might be right about the billet width - perhaps the addition of the snail head on the one side precluded the copper protrusion at the other end?