Printable View
Hi, got me a new watercooling set.
Amongst other things Fesser tripple rad and D-tek fusion v2.
Now, in the manual to the Fusion it is stated that you should not clean your block with any strong detergent (alcohol, acid, whatever) since it is coated with an oxidize protection.
So should I just clean it with distilled water (demineralized)?
What about the Fesser rad that is 100% copper, should I even clean it with vinegar at all, or just flush it with D-water?
Thanks.
HOT distilled water, pour it in, shake it around, rinse, repeat. Do it several times until your sure the water coming out is clean.
As far as the d-tek, just open it up, and verify that there isn't any crap form manufacturing left over.
Right, thanks.
Thanks I needed that too. PA120.2 and Fuzion V2.
PA120.2 will probably require abit more effort to clean...Quote:
Originally Posted by Badie05
If you wanna be really sure there is no flux you can hook a tube to your faucet (most faucets have a fancy end that can be unscrewed leaving only a threadded pipe end behind that you can streach a tube over like a fitting) and the rad, and have another small length of tubing going to the drain, and turn the faucet on and let it run like 30 min. Gonna want to tilt the rad a few different directions at first to make sure there is no air pockets.
Then just flush a few times with distilled water and you should be set. That kind of cleaning with a constant floow of new water shouldnt leave anything behind.
You could also make a mini loop with a Pentec filter right after the rad and let it run for 30 min to a few hours.
Last person who hooked a rad up like that directly to household pressure blew holes in their rad. Best just use your pump from your loop and run water through it for an hour or so............
Nonono, your confusing it with the person who hooked it up to the faucet with the other end capped off to pressure test the rad for leaks, thats completely different then having the other end open to drain out.Quote:
Originally Posted by fart_plume
Your probably right on about the pressure testing, but still I'd rather error on the side of caution when ever it could mean blowing some money.(no jab intended, just a paranoid person here,lol)
Oh, i found something that will get most stains out of tubing prestone radiator flush, I ran some through some tubing as a test and it removed blue die rather effectively. This was on a vinyl type tubing so someone might want to test it on other types of tubing, I woulndn't recommend it for acrylic parts though.
It really cant damage a rad unless the rad is defective and has some kind of blockage inside it allowing it to build up pressure, and in that case its broken anyways :P
Ive heard of people using radiator flush to clean their PC rads with success, just need to rinse a few times with distilled after.
Meh, I clean my rad with an air compressor. I've even used a pressure washer hooked to the inlet once. I wouldn't recommend it, but it was hella interesting to watch. Flow was much better afterward though :D
Ha, and thats much more pressure then a faucet, as long as the other end isnt capped off its fine :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DoGMaN
Ask Iany about using a pressure washer to clean a rad.. He'll tell you all about it. :)
Oh, and using the faucet is nice as well. It's the way I cleaned mine, make sure to use hot water, it helps dissolve the flux.
Well, cleaned most components now, just the pump left.
The rad must have been pretty well flushed from the beginning, maybe The Feser Company makes an effort in that area.
Never pull apart your EK-NB block for the Asus Maximus Extreme, the O-ring is supposed to bend around in all kind of angles - while I was at it trying to get it together again the police came by with drawn weapons..... Luckily it was not my cursing that had brought them :P Some trouble at the local movie store.
I got it together by fixing the hardest bend first with it open; quickly screw on that part and then pushing with a very thin screwdriver, blindly, the rest. It leaked like a sieve at first, but jigling and tightening of the screws stopped that. That doesn't mean the rubber is in the indention :P But I am not opening it up to look - lol.
Cheers!
AGREED!! Much profanities were uttered, muttered and finally shouted just trying to put the darn full face 3870 block back together againQuote:
Originally Posted by Locksley
I needed at least another 4 fingers to do that job!