Looking for thread about Fusion block.

:confused: I've been searching for a thread about the Asus Maximus Extreme X38 and the removal of the fusion block. There is a picture of the block itself and how it is removed. Apparently it is glued onto the heatpipe system. I can't find it, anyone who has an inkling as to what thread I am talking about. Remember it is the removal of the block itself not the whole heatpipe system.

Also if someone know if the EK-NB S-MAX fit the slot?

First I thought, oh heck I'll do with the fusion block itself - then I read about some guy and his block lost all the copper coating after a year :( Well, even though I am going to add anti corrosive I don't want flags of copper paint floating around getting stuck on everything or breaking the pump.

Cheers!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=162085

Well I skimmed through that post earlier but didn't see the pictures of the actual removal of the block - I'll check again, it is a good thread though.

The thread I found it in started out as a question about how to remove the block or how to watercool, maybe if it was worth using the original fusion block.

Cheers for your reply.

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Originally Posted by Locksley

:confused: I've been searching for a thread about the Asus Maximus Extreme X38 and the removal of the fusion block. There is a picture of the block itself and how it is removed. Apparently it is glued onto the heatpipe system. I can't find it, anyone who has an inkling as to what thread I am talking about. Remember it is the removal of the block itself not the whole heatpipe system.

Also if someone know if the EK-NB S-MAX fit the slot?

First I thought, oh heck I'll do with the fusion block itself - then I read about some guy and his block lost all the copper coating after a year :( Well, even though I am going to add anti corrosive I don't want flags of copper paint floating around getting stuck on everything or breaking the pump.

Cheers!

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My fusion on the 790i lasted about 8 weeks.

Look here for the carnage post 36. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=194127&page=2

The horror!

Well I am not using that fusion block that's for certain. But I would like to have a block that fits the slot the fusionblock leave after itself when you remove it and keep the heatpipe. Sure the heatpipe isn't as good as watercooling all the components but hey, lets keep that for my next update.

I am going to exchange the TIM on it anyway so hopefully it will become a little better. Did I read a thread with someone getting better temperatures without the heatpipe than with it :P I can't remember.

Cheers!

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=188149

For anyone else needing the reference.

You can see how gcardinal shows some nice pictures with measurments and all :up:

I found it through googleing, I think that was how I found it the first time too.

Cheers and thanks for all the help.

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Originally Posted by Trigger5521

My fusion on the 790i lasted about 8 weeks.

Look here for the carnage post 36. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=194127&page=2

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You should really read the rest of the thread Trigger, Galvanic Corrosion is not actually the main suspect in that rig, while it was originally suspected to be the problem it seems to have been later disputed in page 2...

I'm not saying the Fusion Block is for sure innocent, I'm just saying from what I've read, I have yet to find someone saying whether yes or no the fusion block is a problem :/ Well I guess I'm going to need to keep looking, right now I'm choosing to not WC the NB but if I find out for sure whether it's alu or copper I might just include it in my loop, because if you read the thread posted by locksley you'll see it seriously lowered temps :)

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Also if someone know if the EK-NB S-MAX fit the slot?

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Yes it does fit, it's the one i have on my ME
I removed the heatpipe assembly, by using a hot air blower to heat up the Asus Fusion block.

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Originally Posted by Bobly

You should really read the rest of the thread Trigger, Galvanic Corrosion is not actually the main suspect in that rig, while it was originally suspected to be the problem it seems to have been later disputed in page 2...

I'm not saying the Fusion Block is for sure innocent, I'm just saying from what I've read, I have yet to find someone saying whether yes or no the fusion block is a problem :/ Well I guess I'm going to need to keep looking, right now I'm choosing to not WC the NB but if I find out for sure whether it's alu or copper I might just include it in my loop, because if you read the thread posted by locksley you'll see it seriously lowered temps :)

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It's my thread BTW(I have read it obviously)..and you maybe right, it now seems the GTX alum top I have is suspect, it has chips in the surface that exposed the unprotected ALU to the fluid. Prue PC may have corrision inhibitors but they don't work very well if ALU is unprotected. I'm not going to post a pic of the chips until I hear back from NCIX and Gabe. I think my top got past quality control.

Lol +1 for you, I didn't notice that was your thread XD Sorry to have sounded so accusing, it's just last time I checked you hadn't actually found any real cause for the problem other than overdye :)

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Originally Posted by Bobly

Lol +1 for you, I didn't notice that was your thread XD Sorry to have sounded so accusing, it's just last time I checked you hadn't actually found any real cause for the problem other than overdye :)

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My post is a little confusing I know...I didn't dye the fluid initially, my Pure PC fluid was clear the first 2 times I did the loop, the water was turning yellow before any dye(red gunk in the fusion block). On the 3rd build I flushed and filled with Prue PC and added the dye(I thought it might help, pee water lookd bad), it didn't really do much right away, after about a week or so it started to get darker, orangeish in color. There is no way DYE caused this issue it was a galvanic reaction that started before I added any dye.

I want to post a pic but I also don't want to hurt swiftech rep or piss Gabe off as I'd like them to send me a new top. I'll probably know what their position is later today.

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Originally Posted by Trigger5521

My post is a little confusing I know...I didn't dye the fluid initially, my Pure PC fluid was clear the first 2 times I did the loop, the water was turning yellow before any dye(red gunk in the fusion block). On the 3rd build I flushed and filled with Prue PC and added the dye(I thought it might help, pee water lookd bad), it didn't really do much right away, after about a week or so it started to get darker, orangeish in color. There is no way DYE caused this issue it was a galvanic reaction that started before I added any dye.

I want to post a pic but I also don't want to hurt swiftech rep or piss Gabe off as I'd like them to send me a new top. I'll probably know what their position is later today.

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Galvanic my arse! Galvanic is a blueish gray color, not orange. If it's really not the dye as you claim, you've got something none of us have seen before.

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Originally Posted by Waterlogged

Galvanic my arse! Galvanic is a blueish gray color, not orange. If it's really not the dye as you claim, you've got something none of us have seen before.

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Well others say different, http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...180445&page=56
Look at post 1397.

My GTX top had a whole bunch of chips and cracks in it which were not protected by the coating they use. I think the sludge you see in the picture was corrision that turned orange after the dye was added. Here's a pic of the top with the sludge cleaned off, are you still going to tell me that's not corrision caused by mixed metals?