Was not real sure where to post this but has there been a "Guide" to lapping a cpu/heatsink posted any where? If not could some one post one?
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Was not real sure where to post this but has there been a "Guide" to lapping a cpu/heatsink posted any where? If not could some one post one?
Bump
hype i got one but its on a dif forum so i dont want to advertise...will talk to you on xfire
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=lapping+guide
http://thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=71
Aircooling forum is the place to search for lapping.
both those guides are not great, especially the first one, really bad process.
Here's my mini guide:
things you need:
800-1000-1200-1600-2000grit sand paper (you can skip the 800 if you like) --->where to buy: Auto parts store (autozone is where ive gotten mine in the past)
-a 1ft square piece of glass or more ideally a glass table top for its large size.
-Masking Tape
-a bit of spring water or distilled water (optional!)
Step 1: Tape down your lowest grit paper to the glass. Make sure it is taught and taped on all four sides.
Step 2a: take your processor with the plastic cap still coving the contacts, flip it onto the sand paper and hold the four corners of the PCB with you thumbs and middle fingers. Use your index fingers to press at the center of the processor (fingers on the plastic back cap).
Step 2b: For a heatisnk just get a firm grasp and try to apply even pressure on all sides
Step 3: Move the item you wish to lap away from you then back towards you in a straight line, go at a moderate pace, not too slow. Do Not go in circles. After you begin to see some change in the heatsink/IHS turn the item 90 degrees and continue to use the same to and fro movement you used before.
Step 4: Once you have completely exposed the copper on the IHS or you see cosistent grain across the whole heatsink base switch to your next sand paper and repeat the same process. do this all the way up to 2000 grit. Each time you switch make sure you have completely sanded away the deeper grooves from the previous sandpaper you used.
Step 5 (optional): Now take your 200grit paper which should have a significant amount of copper on it and drip a few drops of water in the middle of the paper. The idea is to lubricate just enough without drowning the processor. If you are doing this for a heatsink then you've got not issues here. Use the same motion you used before and be careful not to get to crazy with the water. Using the copper already embedded in the paper + the water will give you a shine unlike no other :).
Notes: DO NOT use copper polish or any kind of rubbing compound to make it shinier, even if it looks shinier it really isnt going to perform better your really looking for flatness here.
I have never killed a processor (of 5) wetsanding the IHS so if you are careful it is very safe, if you are at all woriied just skip it, it might not make any difference in your performance, I'm just a perfectionist ;)
Regards and enjoy your very flat contact surfaces, SNiiPE
^simply enumerating on the function of 'search' that Fugger has invested extensively in.
One that I wrote: http://forums.hardwarelogic.com/f32/...uide-8516.html
Here is what I did to lap my IHS:
Step 1 Remove the Nickel layer and even out your surface area
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1..._BeforeLap.jpg
Original CPU
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1..._WetLapped.jpg
Wet Lapped
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...rit_edited.jpg
I used 120 grit sandpaper (wet sand)
I started off with 120 grit sandpaper. Why? It allowed me to remove more IHS material in a shorter period of time. However, do to it's coarse nature I dipped the entire sandpaper in water (used the shower) and wiped off any access water. As the sandpaper became more dirty with IHS material I washed it again (I repeated this process throughout each grit of sandpaper). Just think of the 120 grit as a means to remove the tin layer and flatten your IHS true. Don't worry about shine or smoothness as the end results will leave a stretchy surface. I turn the IHS 90 degrees after 40 or so strokes on the sandpaper (take not I use a glass surface). Once I finished take note of how the surface of the IHS/HS looks and make a mental note and try to remove any imperfections. Clean the surface of loose debris from the IHS/HS and sandpaper. Side note: some believe that the more material you remove the better the heat drop. IMO, this depends on the situation, HS/WB used, pressured used, ambient temps, etc
Step 2 Continue to even out your surface and remove marks from 120 grit.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...00_400Grit.jpg
400 grit
Again, I wet the entire 400 grit sandpaper. I use 400 grit to remove the markings from the 120 grit sandpaper. I want to keep the IHS true and even. I turn the IHS/HS 90 degrees (as needed) and smooth out the scratches made by the 120 grit. I didn't worry about a shine or a smooth surface, I concentrate on true (flat), even surface on the IHSt. This may take some time but, when I achieved a 400 grit scratches on the IHS (maintain a true, even surface) I proceeded to go to 800 grit. Take note of the 400 grit marks left behind and try to remove any imperfections. Clean the surface of the IHS of loose debris and clean the sandpaper with water and let dry.
Step 3 smooth out your surface area
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...00_800Grit.jpg
800 grit
I wet the 600 and 800 grit sandpaper and started work on removing the 400 grit markings of the IHS turning the IHS/HS 90 degrees and use the 600 grit on up to 800 grit for a flat, smooth surface. You will concentrate on keeping the surface of the IHS flat and smooth. Again, as you remove material you want to replace the 400 grit marks with 600 grit marks then 800 grit marks. Once you are finish with the 800 grit take note of how the surface looks. Take note of the 800 grit marks left behind and try to remove any imperfections. Clean the surface of IHS of loose debris, then clean the sandpaper and let dry.
Step 4 Tiddy up your lapping
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0_1000Grit.jpg
1000 grit
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0_2000Grit.jpg
2000 grit
I wet the 1000 grit to 2000 grit (if you have it) sandpaper and concentrated on removing the scratches from the 800 grit and 1000 grit markings on the IHS, turning the IHS as needed. I didn't need to worry about removal of material at this point. However, I did want to make sure the IHS remained true. The surface area should be true by now and I want to keep it that way. All I want to do now is tiddy up my lapping from 120 grit to 600 grit by smoothing out the IHS surface area using 800 grit to 2000 grit as much as possible at this point. At 2000 grit you are looking for perfection, no stray marks or other imperfections in the IHS.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...Reflection.jpg
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...g/th_Final.jpg
A little blurry but here is the final product.
Temp difference: 3C-4C. Temp difference will vary depending on the amount of contact between the IHS and heatsink before and after lapping.
Side note:
It's been my experience that you get the best results when you wet sand.
It's also been my experience that using the crisscross method is a bit better
Each image is in thumbnail size. Click on the picture to enlarge it.
Disclaimer:
Results will vary. This post is not intended to encourage anyone who has little to no experience in lHS lapping. You lap your IHS at your own risk!
Get sandpaper, get flat surface, rub, done.
My whole reason for making this post was so I could see what many other peoples techniques for lapping were so that myself and others like me could get a better understanding of lapping. Thanks for all the posts so far :D