In body HDR first attempt

With my Pentax K200D and newly arrived Sigma 18-50mm EX f/2.8 macro and hood, ran out to take these shots before I loose daylight and played with in body HDR levels (seems to auto crop the image when I used the HDR function in body).

No post-processing, straight out of camera into Lightroom for export as 80% JPEG -> resize for thumbnails and larger 1200px width copy - keeping EXIF info intact.

Click thumbnail for larger version:

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 13:56:20
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 18.0mm (35mm equivalent: 27mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.013 s (1/80)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 125
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Manual

Original
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...50mm-1_tnn.jpg

In body HDR level 1 processing
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...50mm-2_tnn.jpg

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 13:56:40
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 40.0mm (35mm equivalent: 60mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.013 s (1/80)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 125
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Manual

Original
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...50mm-3_tnn.jpg

In body HDR level 1 processing
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...50mm-4_tnn.jpg

In body HDR level 2 processing
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...50mm-5_tnn.jpg

In body HDR level 3 processing
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...50mm-6_tnn.jpg

Just realised I left the white balance on Flourescent White for above LOL

too bright ... the initial pic is already good ... too bright = overexpose?

that's my opinion .. i think the original pics is really top notch :)

Thanks for comment... so it would of been better in a not so overexposed image for HDR ?

The In body HDR doesn't seem to be doing much accept making the image brighter. I don't see the dynamic range increase at all. How does this in body HDR work?

First picture is accurate, but then you start to lose contrast in the following photos.

Not sure how the in body HDR works .. still a DLSR newb hehe

Haven't given up on in body HDR yet. Second attempt seems a bit better late evening but this time used Sigma 10-20mm @10mm and tried to incorporate a bit more sky in the photos :)

Also tried auto-bracket 3 images at -/+ 0.3EV and put it through CS3 merge into HDR function probably too small a step to make a difference ?

Single photo
Original image (left) vs in body HDR level 2 (right)

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 17:10:20
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 15mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.250 s (1/4)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 200
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Manual

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...GP4211a_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...GP4211b_tn.jpg

Single photo
Original image, in body HDR level 1, in body HDR level 2, in body HDR level 3

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 17:10:37
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 15mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.125 s (1/8)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 200
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Auto Bracketing

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...MGP4212_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...GP4212b_tn.jpg
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...GP4212c_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...GP4212d_tn.jpg

Another attempt at single photo
Original image, in body HDR level 1, in body HDR level 2, in body HDR level 3

• Camera Make: PENTAX Corporation
• Camera Model: PENTAX K200D
• Image Date: 2008:06:20 17:10:58
• Flash Used: No
• Focal Length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 15mm)
• Exposure Time: 0.100 s (1/10)
• Aperture: f/6.3
• ISO equiv: 200
• White Balance: Manual
• Metering Mode: Matrix
• Exposure: Manual
• Exposure Mode: Auto Bracketing

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...MGP4215_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...GP4215b_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...GP4215c_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...GP4215d_tn.jpg

Now tried auto bracket 3 images -/+ 0.3EV fed through CS3 merge HDR feature.

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...y/12_14_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...y/15_17_tn.jpg

Better or worse than first attempt ? Or maybe the problem is the end user = me :o

You won't see much difference at those settings. You really need to try bracketing 3 shots at -2, 0, +2 to get more dynamic range.

I can't really tell what the camera is doing, but you cannot boost DR from a single shot with software processing...looks to me like its simply brightening the image.

Yeah going to try -/+ 2EV - all above done hand held as grass is wet and muddy - don't want to get my tripod dirty heh.

Personally I like the CS3 HDR method result. Messed with the CS3 HDR file's highlights etc

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph..._17_CS3_tn.jpg

To be honest, those images are about as close to HDR as i am to having sex with Jessica Alba. Seriously, how are you doing HDR with a single photo? It is physically impossible.

Honestly, know idea as I'm a newb LOL

closest could find to explaining it is at http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=26494170

Even that, that doesn't look like very good HDR. Your better off taking 3 pictures of the same thing at -2, 0 and +2 and using something like Photomatix or the CS2/CS3 merge to HDR function

I used CS3 merge HDR for post #8 photo http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...23&postcount=8 but only +/- 0.3EV was used.

looks like your applying too much sharpen filter.

Yeah looks like proper way for HDR with several photos reveals a better result, just lack of photoshop skills to know how to adjust the HDR 32bit file i think as well ?

latest try on the existing images

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...ur_hdr4_tn.jpg

these is the original file, under and over exposed photos.

Thanks to Cooties from OCAU for putting me on to Dynamic Photo HDR program - so far best for a newb like me who tried Photomatrix basic and CS3 merge HDR and HDR fake via layers etc.

Plucked the 3 originals - original file, under and over exposed photos into Dynamic Photo HDR trial program and it gave me a few preset methods to choose from including a Sky filter to prevent that halo like look.

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...dr_methods.gif

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...yecatching.jpg

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...a_contrast.jpg

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...compressor.jpg

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...o_adaptive.jpg

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...otographic.jpg

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph..._human_eye.jpg

My last attempt looked a bit like auto-adaptive method, guess need to change subject matter :heh:

The eye catching and auto-adaptive outputs

http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...atching_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...daptive_tn.jpg

If you want perfectly aligned shots, CS3 is unbeatable. No other program will get you a better final picture that is "true to life". Check some of the ones I have posted. No one can guess they were HDR because they look realistic - mission accomplished, that is what HDR is all about :)

That is much better than your first attempt though I must say.

There is not enough difference between those pictures. You NEED to take a picture at -2, 0 and +2. .3 difference is not enough to do anything.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Soulburner

If you want perfectly aligned shots, CS3 is unbeatable. No other program will get you a better final picture that is "true to life". Check some of the ones I have posted. No one can guess they were HDR because they look realistic - mission accomplished, that is what HDR is all about :)

That is much better than your first attempt though I must say.

---

guess i'm getting confused as to what HDR is meant to be.. i see some HDR that look like painting like heh

Here's another attempt with different subject matter. This time auto bracketed for 3x 6M res JPEG photos at -/+ 2.0EV and tried several methods including:

1. CS3 HDR Merge
2. CS3 HDR Merge + layering
3. Dynamic Photo HDR methods

• Make - PENTAX Corporation
• Model - PENTAX K200D
• Software - K200D Ver 1.00
• DateTime - 2008:06:22 11:49:48
• ExposureTime - 1/80 seconds
• FNumber - 11.00
• ExposureProgram - Manual control
• ISOSpeedRatings - 125
• DateTimeOriginal - 2008:06:22 11:49:48
• DateTimeDigitized - 2008:06:22 11:49:48
• ComponentsConfiguration - YCbCr
• ExposureBiasValue - 0.00
• MeteringMode - Multi-segment
• Flash - Flash not fired, compulsory flash mode
• FocalLength - 18.00 mm
• CustomRendered - Normal process
• ExposureMode - Auto bracket
• White Balance - Manual
• FocalLengthIn35mmFilm - 27 mm

Just the thumbnails this time. The original 6M res JPEGs, 0ev, -2ev, +2ev

CS3 HDR Merge vs CS3 HDR Merge + layering (2 versions)
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph..._cs_hdr_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...layers_tnn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...hlights_tn.jpg

3. Dynamic Photo HDR methods

Method: Eye-catching vs Method: Ultra Contrast vs Method: Photographic
http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...atching_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...ontrast_tn.jpg http://fileshosts.com/dslr/pentax/ph...graphic_tn.jpg

i must be doing something wrong post HDR 32bit generation ?? Maybe someone can take my originals - 0ev, -2ev, +2ev and see what they come up with ?

Might prove that problem is the end user = me LOL

does the k200 not come with the kit 18-55mm pentax lens in australia?