replacing the Striker II Extreme Fusion NB waterblock

Hi,
decided to 'upgrade' the Fusion NB Waterblock on the Asus Striker II Extreme.
While many debate whether or not to watercool the NB altogether I decided to go for it with a better aftermarket solution.
I found and got the EK-NB S-MAX Acetal which is compatible.

Today, very excited I removed the mobo, and wanted to change the coolers.
mmm...I can't seem to get it off.

I already had removed the entire heatsink system once before to change the TIM everywhere.

the NB Fusion Block seems to be held in place only by 2 very tiny screws that are going into the heatpipe system.

I suspect they used thermal adhesive of some sort because it just doesn't move.

Before I break anything I wanted to ask here if anyone has done this before and has some tips/steps on how to remove this waterblock.

any help appreciated.

thanks

if your replacing the NB block then the whole heat pipe assembly goes along with it, i dont have a striker 2 extreme but i do have the formula and the heat pipe assembly includes everything, mosfet, nb and sb

so if your going to replace the NB then your going to have to replace everything else too

hope that helps alittle

You will have to replace both Mosfets with new cooling as well as the South Bridge. You might want to take a look at this for an example: http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_pa...50aHVzaWFzdA==

Is that an Alu top on the fusion block? :poke:
Oh asus how could you?

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Originally Posted by Fragger

Is that an Alu top on the fusion block? :poke:
Oh asus how could you?

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looks like a sticker to me...other models with the fusion system dont have alu. i dont see why they would change it:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Giannis86

looks like a sticker to me...other models with the fusion system dont have alu. i dont see why they would change it:D

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I so hope you are right, im keen on one of these.:yepp:

I'd like to replace my block as well. I recall seeing some pictures of someone doing that with a 680i. They used an AC block on the stock heatpipe assembly.

Anyone know what might fit?

I will be doing this exact process this week, my blocks arrive on Wednesday this week.

No updates?

Its Aluminum ! Its AL alright.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=194127

Do yourself a favor and never fire up the mobo. Loosen the pegs, mosfets, SB and all. Twist gently with a side to side motion on the NB. Do not pull off. Do not force.

Turn mobo upside down. Balance mobo on both sides. Gravity will do the rest. The heatsink contraption is heavy enough that it'll fall off in due course. Sometimes an hour. Sometimes overnight. If it doesn't, use a bit of hairdryer heat and then try again. It'll come off.

I am going the same way; but I wonder:

1. Does the EK-NB S-Max fit the old fusion slot so you still can keep the heat tube system and the cooling fins?

2. Also read in an other thread that it's glued on but a bit of heat (hair dryer) will make it come off with a bit of help.

3. Any point to use A.silver ceramic on the rest of the heat pipe system or should one stick with the original?

Cheers and good luck!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Locksley

I am going the same way; but I wonder:

1. Does the EK-NB S-Max fit the old fusion slot so you still can keep the heat tube system and the cooling fins?

2. Also read in an other thread that it's glued on but a bit of heat (hair dryer) will make it come off with a bit of help.

3. Any point to use A.silver ceramic on the rest of the heat pipe system or should one stick with the original?

Cheers and good luck!

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1. It would be best to get rid of the whole piece of junk

2. Only a bit of heat. Don't start up the machine. Too much heat and the glue will set and you will be doomed.

3. Only Ceramique, or even better MX2. Never Artic Silver 5. Get rid of the piece of joke that they call the original thermal compound. I bet my toothpaste works better than that junk they slap on the NB.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...71&postcount=2

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Soulwind

From a review:

"The portion of the heatsink covering the 790i SPP is extruded aluminum with a coating applied to give the illusion of copper. The integrated "Fusion" water-cooling bowl is covered with a thick copper finish inside and out ensuring there will be no issues with galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals."

So, it's not really copper, it's aluminum covered in a 'copper finish'. Personally, I wouldn't trust it to not have small flaws/scratches/etc... but that's just me.

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Basically I was asking about Galvanic Corrosion in this thread and it seems to fit what you're asking too. Personally I'm going to try and keep the Striker II Extreme heat pipe simply because if it's good enough to cool it on air then it will be good enough on water which means I won't need to change the whole heatpipe setup :)

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Originally Posted by extremis

No updates?

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I don't have pics of the whole process, but here are a few.

What I did was use a Heat Gun, low setting. Started at the SB...

Hold the block with your fingers, wiggle the block slightly, point the heat gun right at the block, hold it far enough away that your fingers can stay on the block...keep wiggling slightly. Once the block gets warm enough, the more the block will wiggle.

Get the block loose, then move to the NB block, same thing. Mosfets were nice and warm at this point, had to apply some additional heat, but not much.

Apply a little more heat to the NB and SB (quick), turn the board upside down and wiggle slightly, the whole thing came right off.

http://photos.skinnee-industries.com...oboPrep-01.jpghttp://photos.skinnee-industries.com...oboPrep-02.jpg

Originally Posted by Soulwind
From a review:

"The portion of the heatsink covering the 790i SPP is extruded aluminum with a coating applied to give the illusion of copper. The integrated "Fusion" water-cooling bowl is covered with a thick copper finish inside and out ensuring there will be no issues with galvanic corrosion due to dissimilar metals."

So, it's not really copper, it's aluminum covered in a 'copper finish'. Personally, I wouldn't trust it to not have small flaws/scratches/etc... but that's just me.

DO NOT TRUST THAT COPPER FINISH TO LAST!!!
I picked up one of these boards (Blitz Formula SE used bout a year) thinking to try watercooling that fusion to compare the difference and for some wierd reason, decided to shine a flashlight into the block.

Recoiled in horror! The inner base of the block had tarnished and turned slivery white. Strange...copper should turn green...
So i popped the other barb's rubber cap off to check the other side...WORST. The fake copper finish/paint was flaking off the inner surfaces of the barb exposing oxidized aluminum.

And that was the effect of the block being left ALONE for a year, sealed with the 2 rubber caps!
No way I'm gonna hook up a loop with it and risk my precious toys