Coollabs Liquid Pro Investigated! Easiest possible way to remove included. 56k warnin

Problems or problems we THINK would happen or problems other reviewers had
1) Corrosion
2) Words on ihs missing
3) ihs damaged
4) bonding of metals (to create a thermo-nuclear explosion of all sorts of metals)
5) user problems - metal (no not mental) problems that Gallium would jump out of their cpu and eat them as well as their copper heatsink and waterblock and of cuz go ROARRRRRR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!


First up, coollabs claims u can reuse this paste, for how many apps i do not know, but for one reuse, perfectly fine. same temps i got before and after i mounted. fair enough.


Second, we address the eating into metal, and bonding issue:

hsf came off fine. easy as well. cpu shown here. Liquid still in liquid form.
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/1...39largeye7.jpg

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/3...41largetl7.jpg


hsf looks solid but still liquid. dont mind the flash
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/2...43largedm4.jpg

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/216...45largexr0.jpg


CPU out of the socket
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/5...46largezz9.jpg


Weapons of choice
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/2...47largekk1.jpg




We tackle to clean the HSF first. first wipe w.o alcohol. liquid comes off easily
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/140...48largeov6.jpg


Problem starting to arise - first isopropyl alcohol wipe. this will happen with or w.o the alcohol.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/600...52largecw1.jpg


Second and third alcohol wipe all looked like this. would not get any cleaner
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/3...53largeui2.jpg

No choice but to bring in the BIG GUNS. HEY MOMMA!
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8...54largecl7.jpg


All it does is polish the copper PLUS liquid pro on top.........
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8...56largesq9.jpg




No choice but to call the Koreans for help........



Eagle brand: "whose your daddy" 2000grit sand paper from Korea
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/3...57largene9.jpg



For those unfamiliar with sandpaper using up THIS much sandpaper means close to NO material removed. This grit is mainly for smoothening. not to remove material. cue owners would be familiar. u use this to polish ur cue. its that fine. so no material is removed even when i use it down to the paper.
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/6...58largedk2.jpg



The Korean Miracle Machine - "back to normal" Intel heatsink!
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/4...59largepy3.jpg

I didnt even autosol to get this shine
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/7...61largexn0.jpg




Now the MAIN item. MR CPU and MRS IHS. This is the EASIEST way to remove liquid pro from your ihs. NO SANDING OR AUTOSOL POLISH IS NEEDED. this first pic here is the first wipe WITHOUT alcohol
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/8...62largedi5.jpg




Look closely, u can see a "pool" of isoprophyl alcohol that was formed with just one drop. Leave it this way for a few seconds at least
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/7...64largeyw1.jpg

First wipe with iso alcohol
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/987...66largerb0.jpg


After a few drops aka "pools" and a few wipes, u get this. dont bother abt the small hole in the middle, its been there since i got the cpu.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/660...70largeev8.jpg

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/3...71largeua2.jpg

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/9...72largehe4.jpg

Through a magnifying glass with super macro. We all know the circular marks are from the intel hsf which will happen no matter WHAT thermal paste u use.

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/3...73largeld1.jpg




I tested the best way to clean Liquid Pro off a copper heatsink, surface the hard way. wasted some just to test for everyone. SO DONT GO :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:ING ABOUT EVERY DAMN THING. QUIT WHINING and let those who wanna know about this product and how it can benefit them, benefit them.

so i took a copper plate i had from doing some heat transfer testing for a project i'm doing:
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/6...77largecy1.jpg


Nopez wiping with just tissue and alcohol would give u this, meth spirit was no better.
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/742...81largeka6.jpg


there's really no way better than to use Autosol, brasso or whatever metal polish u guys use in ur country. you can see the dark green marks are some leftovers from the liquid pro. this is after just ONE pass.
http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/7...83largezu4.jpg


Second pass shows perfectly clean
http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/681...84largeqt7.jpg





Important READ HERE conclusions and final thoughts
1) Use iso alcohol to "dissolve" the liquid then wipe it up with ONE wipe and dont use the same side of tissue again. remember to leave it for a few seconds. this works for BOTH the hsf and ihs.
2) You cannot clean the copper surface properly w/o some sort of metal polish at least. u dont necessarily need sandpaper. i just used it to speed up the process.
3) Bonding with metal not possible or low possibility. if u see how cleanly the surfaces come off. maybe over a long period yes - see green marks upon polishing. but then again. i'm not going to leave this in for more than 6 months anyway!
4) ihs words going missing. not possible or low possibility. no metal polish used and it was so clean. just dosent seem possible to eat into the wordings.
5) it is possible that this test was not conducted for a period long enough. so i still have this inside my current setup in my sig. it has been in there for some time now. when i take it out, i'll probably post a new thread then. when that will be. time will tell. but i am confident with my current testing, it will yield the SAME results as what i get now.

It is okay if you disagree with my findings, afterall i'm proud to say i'm from the microelectronics sector. I'm not a chemist or PHD holder in Nuclear Physics for Metal Bonding, Fusion and Explosion. So dont expect me to go ranting about Gallium, its alloy, its neighbour or its mother and her bad behavior with other metals. I know what it can do and what it will do and so does everyone. If u think this product sucks for u, it does, dont use it. If you ask me, i think its well worth the trouble for the performance. No Pain, No Gain.

thats a nice guide.

But really, if that stuff is THAT much hastle to remove then i'd rather stick with normal paste even if it means that temps are a few degree's higher

yer agreed same with sanding down the Ihs tbh i dont see point

yup and brasso'ing ones 8800GTX core will remove nvidia markings before all the coolab is gone....avoid this stuff unless you don't give a hoot about warranties imo

This testing is going to be done over the period of a few months correct? Because all of those claims you posted were with prolonged use of the product, not 5 minutes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Origin_Unknown

thats a nice guide.

But really, if that stuff is THAT much hastle to remove then i'd rather stick with normal paste even if it means that temps are a few degree's higher

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haha to be honest i agree :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spawne32

This testing is going to be done over the period of a few months correct? Because all of those claims you posted were with prolonged use of the product, not 5 minutes.

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of course not 5 mins. but not a few months. a few weeks. i still have my q6600 and swiftech apogee yet to be seen. that will probably be a few months

hey guys dont get me wrong. i did NOT sand or autosol the ihs. no need for it. just need alcohol and some tissue. comes off cleanly and easily. its the copper block that kills. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Spawne32

This testing is going to be done over the period of a few months correct? Because all of those claims you posted were with prolonged use of the product, not 5 minutes.

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I have used the stuff for pretty close to a year now :)

And I can 100% say I have never had any fusing, any problems removing it, or it destroying the IHS. I know some people have problems, but they must be doing something wrong? I cant say, but I for one love the stuff, and use it on everything.

Why not just spray it with electrical contact cleaner? Don't even need to break out the towels. It won't take care of corrosion that has eaten into the base metals, but anything on the heatsink and/or cpu will be gone, and the cleaner will evaporate in a few seconds.

Just do yourself a favor and 1) spray it outside, and 2) don't breathe it in..

I used alcohol b4 but it wasn't iso so it didn't work very well.

Nice info man this makes my life a lot easier when I'm removing this stuff in the future.

But I'm a bit confused. So does the iso alcohol work well on the copper like it did on the cpu?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cozwin

yer agreed same with sanding down the Ihs tbh i dont see point

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ive done that ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ineedaname

I used alcohol b4 but it wasn't iso so it didn't work very well.

Nice info man this makes my life a lot easier when I'm removing this stuff in the future.

But I'm a bit confused. So does the iso alcohol work well on the copper like it did on the cpu?

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nope it dosent help on alcohol. that one i had no choice but to autosol :)

I thought the boding issue was when a Alu. heatsink was used.

I suggest finding a heatsink that is Alu. or nickel plated copper to full address this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by filmbot

I thought the boding issue was when a Alu. heatsink was used.

I suggest finding a heatsink that is Alu. or nickel plated copper to full address this.

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It doesnt bond, more like the fact the gallium in LMP creates an alloy with Aluminum and breaks down the aluminum by destroying the lattice structures in the Al, gallium will also do this with other metals, but copper and nickel are not one of them.

Then I think that he should get an Alu. heatsink to test it. Ive heard about this many times, but have not seen actual photos and would like to see.

Personally, I will never use the stuff because a couple degrees over Ceramique isnt a big deal to me but still interested in seeing the affects of the reaction.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by filmbot

Then I think that he should get an Alu. heatsink to test it. Ive heard about this many times, but have not seen actual photos and would like to see.

Personally, I will never use the stuff because a couple degrees over Ceramique isnt a big deal to me but still interested in seeing the affects of the reaction.

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Who would want to destroy a heatsink just to futher prove chemistry, in that Gallium breaks down the metal lattice of certain metals, and makes an alloy with them.

Anyways, I have some Aluminum laying around, I will put LMP on it and show you what it does.

Or he could just go a Google search. Lazy bastard. :)

http://www.frostytech.com/ArticleIma...al-destroy.jpg
There I performed a miraculous web search for him.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by swaaye

Or he could just go a Google search. Lazy bastard. :)

http://www.frostytech.com/ArticleIma...al-destroy.jpg
There I performed a miraculous web search for him.

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Or that.... :D

As you can see that powdery substance is now Aluminum Gallate if I am not mistaken :)

Lol that brings back memories.

I accidently did the same thing on the exact same cooler. I tried not 2 let the liquid pro touch the sides but it didn't work so well.

I ended up taking the heatsink apart and putting steel sides to replace the alu sides that were ruined.

U'd b surprised how quickly it eats thru alu. Within like 5 min and the entire thing turns black.

hey thanks guys for the pics... just caught up today and yea maybe i'll do some test and try too. but since ya already got pics i'd say cooL! :)

amazing how copper is resistant

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NightRaven

amazing how copper is resistant

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Resistant probably isn't the right thing to call it. Copper and Gallium just don't want to join together. :)