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Just bought one of these baby's for my 9800. Should be cool ;)
http://www.dyonisis.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/mcw50-t.jpg
Bought some smd grabbers from RS aswell so while the 9800's out I was going to attempt the VMOD. Might go for the others aswell.
Wich me luck :)
Brett aka aNaBolic
Good luck and tell us how it performs
Phew !!!
This was bloody hard work to install. And I dont mean the actual block itself. Ive never had so many leaks in my life, Nearly drenched my MOBO at one point :)
Heres some piccys :-
http://www.dyonisis.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/swifty1.jpg
http://www.dyonisis.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/swifty2.jpg
http://www.dyonisis.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/swifty3.jpg
http://www.dyonisis.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/swifty4.jpg
Its all a bit messy at the moment.
The problem is you need very flat ends when plugging the pipes into these Easy Fit adapters, they arnt as forgiving as the one Asetek supplies with its Kit. After about 5, yes 5 leaks around the pushfit connector points I managed to get the cuts square (Im using a Stanley Knife, need a pipe cutter). These first leaks were more like Jet sprays :) Lucky I was testing on a separate PSU, with the main power off.
Must admit I was getting peed off with draining the system. I dicovered that with these new pushfits you also have to push the pipes in REALLY hard to ensure they are snug in the rubber washer thing inside. I think this was the main cause of the leaks.
The next major issue, as you can see from the last picture, is the flexability of the pipes supplied with the Asetek Kit. They will not bend very well in confined spaces. If you do bend them they tend to spring leakes at the connector points. Wich aint good :) Im going to pick up some more flexible 10mm pipe tommorow so I can actually get the Pump and Res into the case.
Now we come to performance. I havnt run any hard test yet as Im giving the AC3 time to bed in with the TEC. Managed a quick 3DM2003 run at 520/378 though and had no Artifacts.
I would NOT recommend running one of these inline with either the GPU or CPU cooling heads. I feel the Waterchill rad is being pushed to the edge with cooling the Hot side of this TEC, even though its only 80w. The air being pumped out of the Rad is very warm. And the Res is also noticebly warm to the touch. Not VERY hot though so the system is doing a nice job of taking of the heat. Wouldnt like the pump to stop though as I can see the Water quickly Boiling :) Ive also added 1/2 a Capful of Redline Water Wetter to aid in the heat extraction.
Thats it really, Ill post some Benchies when it all beds in. Ill also attach a 2nd Thermal Probe when it arrives to I can record some temps Front and Back of the GPU.
The Swiftech block itself is a thing of beauty and you can see why they are leaders in their field. Installation was a breeze.
Sorry for the long post,
Brett
Edit - The air and Water seemed to have cooled down now. Guess all the air has gone and the Water system has now reached ambient. The air from the Rad is now mildly warm. Much cooler than the initial starting temps. I even unplugged the TEC to make sure it was still working, noticed artifacts appearing so plugged it back in. I can get some accurate readings when my probe arrives.
nice job keep us posted. where did those bubbles in your res come from? did you put dish washing liquid?
LOL :p
Nahh - Just filled it. They seem to form on the sides of the Res. They disapear after a few hours. There dont seem to be any bubbles shooting through the pipes anymore wich is cool :)
Im on leak watch at the moment, so am a bit reluctant to shake the Res around to clear the bubbles.
Brett
sorry coz i read somewhere that they put dishwashing soap on their water. am a noob when it comes to watercooling am setting up my first watercooling.
your a brave man testing leak with all your blocks connected. arent you suppose to test for leak without your mobo?
Im a water noob to. Just learning all this stuff.
I did test iniatially - Hence the 5 Leaks. Although it was in situ at the time. But I ran the pump from another PSU. No power was going to the 9800 or MOBO etc..
Little leaks I can handle, If there are any it will just drip into the base of my case, wich is free of electrical stuff. I trust the Rad connections as they were inplace before and have been tested for hours.
The only thing ive added to the distilled water is some Redline Water Wetter, wich aids heat transer and prevents corrosion.
Goodluck with the Watercooling.
Brett
although I like swiftech and respect those that can actually use them, when I tried them, I found thier mounting system for tubing completly infuriating and simply gave up.
nothing I could do would make the thing completly watertight.
if I could simply screw in some regular barbs (after all whats wrong with those?) I would be more inclined to try some swiftech products again.
Must admit I had a headache with the step down adpaters (1/2"-3/8"), the leaks wernt the Swiftech end though. It was where the Pipes plug into the adpater. Loads of spillage. I had to take the pipes out a few times and recut. Even sanded down the ends to ensure they were sqaure. Then took out the adpaters and pushed the pipes in real hard. Popped them back into the Head and hey presto. Fingers crossed it all seems good at the moment.
I must get some more flexible tubing though as this stuff is awful, it just wont bend without putting loads of pressure on the connector ends.
I cant say whether Barb connectors are better as ive never used them. Im new to all this stuff.
In the past 4 months ive gone from a regular AMD air cooled system to a Phasechanged, TEC Cooled, Water Cooled P4 setup. Talk about a learning curve :eek:
Brett
In the best case you should test for leaks without the setup mounted, but i usually cut my cable with the block mounted so it annoys me to remove them after (i'm too lazy :))
The system just needed to be bled to work at best.
Is the gpu block inline with the cpu block? According to the pic it looks like it's yes. Is the cpu wb pelted also? What kind of temp are you getting on the cpu?
One last thing are you running it from the main psu or do you have a dedicated one for the pelt? What psu are you using?
Hi antipop,
The CPU is cooled by a Vapochill PE (-23 Idle, -8 Loaded). The TEC/Water is only cooling the GPU. Its all running off an Enermax 550W EG651P-V (36A Version). The TEC is only 80W so my PSU is more than enough to power all this.
Brett
You haven't seen a drop in your voltage? I'm planning to buy one and to hook it on my TTGI 420W.
How does those tweamonster ramsink performs? Are they worth the price?
Must admit I have had a small drop on the 12v Line - Its was 11.98 Solid before its now 11.92. Ill see how it goes. Doesnt seem to effect my Overclock at the moment. Im running a lot off this Enermax so its doing OK. The Vapochill draws a lot and with this TEC aswell its being pushed.
Not sure if the Ramsinks are doing anything. I guess they give more surface area for the air but thats about it. I have never tried the 9800 without so I dont know if they help. Cant hurt though :)
Brett
How are the water temps?
I found with the tec, the tec warmed the water up wayyyyy too much and water would sit at about 45dc while ambients were around the 25dc mark.....i wasnt very impressed with it tbh....
I then got some chilled wtaer and this helped but way too much of a hassle. Im getting the non T version in a few weeks. I dont want a water system where the water is being HEATED :D
hehehehe
Sorry to tell you, but the watter-wetter will not help in the least bit to reduce your temps. Before you tell me that I am full of :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:, I contacted WaterWetter and had one of the engineers explain how it actually helps in the cooling process. Basically what it does is stops the small boiling areas in your cooling systm. When you get ignition in the combustion chamber it causes small volcano like hotspots in the cooling jacket. When water boils, it will not dissipate heat anymore or it is significantly reduced. WaterWetter prevents or lowers the hotspots and that is how it improves cooling. So unless your processor or in your case GPU is getting hot to cause flash boiling in spots of your waterblock it will not help.Quote:
added 1/2 a Capful of Redline Water Wetter to aid in the heat extraction
Hi,
Creative the water Temps seem OK. To the touch anyway. Im waiting for a Thermal Probe and display to be delivered so I can accurately monitor the Temps. Besides im only cooling the TEC with this Water system so a small rise is ok with me. I have a 10kBTU Air con unit in here so ambient can be very chilly :)
Nohto the Water Wetter doesnt hurt :) and at least it helps stop corrosion.
So far im VERY pleased with this block. At 520Core I now get no Artifacts where as before on just water I had loads. I also used to get weird artifacts (tiny Pixels) when viewing quicktime movies. This was at 510Core, they have now gone.
Brett
Tell me how are your water temp once you get your probe
CREATIVE! long time no see :D how r u? nice 2k1 score!
SAAYA!!!!Quote:
Originally posted by saaya
CREATIVE! long time no see :D how r u? nice 2k1 score!
Im good buddy, and u? :D
Thank you for the kind words :)
Things are a little bit hectic atm with University exams nextweek.. :( :) But they are over at the end of the month so after that Ill get back into benching :thumbup:
Thats why I was wondering about Brett's water temps with his MCW50-T. I had one but the water got way too hot....maybe it was the way I had it setup, not sure....
All I know is that I need to get some better cooling if I want to push this card. Im currently at 455/370 with default cooling and AS3, but shim still on and *not* making good contact with core....thus the card reaches temps of about ~60dc when benching.....
Im a little hesitant to remove the shim cos the MCW-50 has the bottom cut nicely so you dont have to take off the shim......but then again its not 100% ill get a MCw.....ahhhhh see the dilemas Im faced with :stick: :p
Interested to see how you go/went Brett :)
The problem with Peltier coolers is that originally you are taking away the heat of the gpu, but with a Peltier you are taking away the heat of the gpu and the Peltier.
So for a 220w Peltier you'd better use dry ice or chilled water at the least as you probably have a 300w problem on your hands. Try sticking a 300w lightbulb in your mouth and turn it on and see what happens. Ok, be a big girls blouse and stick a mere 100w light bulb in your mouth and hold that. :)
For watercooling or air use a 80w Peltier, for chilled water and bigger you can use something a bit stronger in the wattage department.
Has anyone tried a 220w Peltier with a Prommie stuck to the back ? Is this colder than "au natural" for the Prommie ?
Regards
Andy
The Swifty is only an 80W Pelt, and my Water system is doing a great job of removing the Heat. No issues so far. Much better than just a waterhead on its own.
Brett
Brett,
Where'd you find that 1/2" OD tubing?
Can't find any that's suitable over here :mad:
Its not 1/2" OD its 3/8" OD - Thats why im using the setpdowns on the block.
The pipe coming from the top of the RES into the RAD is 1/2" - it came with the Waterchill kit.
Put a post on forum.vapochill.com - Im sure the support guys will give you the excact spec.
Brett
I'm pretty sure pelts lose their efficiency when you stick something as cold as a prommy on it.Quote:
Originally posted by zakelwe
Has anyone tried a 220w Peltier with a Prommie stuck to the back ? Is this colder than "au natural" for the Prommie ?
BTW nice setup brett
nice!