Unfortunately.. I didn't fully research the xs forum in buying this.. If only.. :(
right now.. this is not helping in my setup.. :( if you have any mod.. or any idea to modify this please post your ideas and opinions.. :)
thanks.. :woot:
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Unfortunately.. I didn't fully research the xs forum in buying this.. If only.. :(
right now.. this is not helping in my setup.. :( if you have any mod.. or any idea to modify this please post your ideas and opinions.. :)
thanks.. :woot:
Quote:
Originally Posted by erwinz
Please post us a pic showing your setup.
Its an air cooled TEC, the best way to mod this cooler is to reduce the voltage to the peltier and replace it with a larger pelt to run at a lower voltage if the base layer will let you.
here is my setup
http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/9518/img1578a4pt.jpg
this is the product page.. of the tec cooler
http://www.vigorgaming.com/component...nii_intel.html
hey nol looking at the block on google it don't look like it will do much good to get a bigger tec and undervolt it any. but it is worth a shot.
edit:
sorry I didn't see the pic before I posted, I thought maybe you had bad case flow that is why I asked for pics. I have to agree with nol on this one
mm.. could you please advice on a bigger TEC and how do I undervolt it?? :) I am a really newbie on TEC cooling.. :)
The provided controller is worthless, to upgrade the peltier would require getting rid of it. Which also renders the idea involved with a hot and cold heat pipe side useless. Best bet is to dump the cooler on ebay and buy a Tuniq.
mm.. so tuniq is a best bet..
Should be quieter too, the Vigor monsoon is more suited to a much lower heatload.
ebay IT
hehehe.. :) mm.. I will try modding it.. :)
mm.. I just read this.. :)
TEC undervolting charts by Bloody_Sorcerer
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...ad.php?t=67927
I'm speculating that the TEC on the Vigor Monsoon™ II is
Quote:
80 watt / 16.1 VMax / 8.0 IMax
5 volts: 5.7 watts; 2.48 amps
6 volts: 8.9 watts; 2.98 amps
7 volts: 12.8 watts; 3.47 amps
8 volts: 17.4 watts; 3.97 amps
9 volts: 22.8 watts; 4.47 amps
10 volts: 28.8 watts; 4.96 amps
11 volts: 35.6 watts; 5.46 amps
12 volts: 43.0 watts; 5.96 amps
13 volts: 51.2 watts; 6.45 amps
14 volts: 60.1 watts; 6.95 amps
15 volts: 69.7 watts; 7.45 amps
16 volts: 80 watts; 7.95 amps
PC Perspective assumes that Vigor Monsoon™ II uses a TEC that is probably a relatively high-power 40mm unit (24 volts Vmax, 10A Imax, 65° DTmax, and upwards of 150 watts Qmax).
linky here.. http://www.pcper.com/article.php?aid...e=expert&pid=5
so maybe I need to pump more voltage for the TEC to kick in.. :) hehehe are my analysis correct??
comments please.. :D
the reason the tec is clocked like that is because the heatsink/fans cant cool much more then that heat load. If you get a meanwell powersupply and try it then you may cause more trouble then you want to get into
owwww.. mm.. ok.. thanks for pointing it out.. :)
mm.. I'll try to have a separate power for the TEC.. just to test.. but i'll be using 12v power.. I'll try it later..
The best way to get it to cool better is if you mod it so that all four heatpipes removes heat from the hot side of the tec.
First you remove the tec and put a layer of heat grease in between the heatpipes and tighten them together.
Then you need to make/buy a coldplate, it should be at least 10mm thick and about 50x50mm, copper.
It looks like you can use the four screw holes to attach the coldplate to the base of the cooler, of course with the tec in between.
You might need longer bolts to fasten the cooler to the mb.
If it is possible to remove the temp sensor, then you should move it down to the new coldplate, drill a hole in the side and glue it in, I guess the sensor is needed to prevent temps to go subzero when the cpu is idle.
If the tec fails with this mod, the cpu will not have any cooling, that is also why you need a thick coldplate to absorb the heat until thermal shut down.
Have you done this? It sounds like alot of pure speculation and idealism but not something actually done. Plus a coldplate of that size won't help with thermal shut down but instead with load. A proper tec setup though only needs a very thin coldplate though.Quote:
The best way to get it to cool better is if you mod it so that all four heatpipes removes heat from the hot side of the tec.
First you remove the tec and put a layer of heat grease in between the heatpipes and tighten them together.
Then you need to make/buy a coldplate, it should be at least 10mm thick and about 50x50mm, copper.
It looks like you can use the four screw holes to attach the coldplate to the base of the cooler, of course with the tec in between.
You might need longer bolts to fasten the cooler to the mb.
If it is possible to remove the temp sensor, then you should move it down to the new coldplate, drill a hole in the side and glue it in, I guess the sensor is needed to prevent temps to go subzero when the cpu is idle.
If the tec fails with this mod, the cpu will not have any cooling, that is also why you need a thick coldplate to absorb the heat until thermal shut down.
sorry but that don't even sound right. the heatpipes can only move so much heat no matter how they are positioned and as for that thick of a cold plate, I wouldn't recomend going that thick because then your tec will have trouble cooling just the cold plate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Eggi
A proper tec setup is watercooled.
If the tec dies in any tec setup the risk of frying the cpu increases with thinner coldplate.
Thread starter asked for ideas how to mod this cooler, this is mine.
The size of the coldplate won't matter except to lengthen the time till the thermal shutdown hits. Either way the temperature of the copper and cpu will increase together.
A proper TEC setup in our cases can be watercooled, but peltiers are often air cooled in hundreds of industrial usages.
Have you looked at the cooler? 2 of the heatpipes are placed on the cold side of the tec, this is a safety measure so that if the tec stops working, it will still remove heat from the cpu. My logic then says that if you place all heatpipes to remove heat from the hot side, cold side gets colder.Quote:
Originally Posted by littleowl
No they arent there as a safety measure. The TEC on its own is far from able to cool most processors so the TEC's only their as an assistant heat pump.
Disregard the thickness of the coldplate then, it was not the essense of the idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Then what was.Quote:
If the tec dies in any tec setup the risk of frying the cpu increases with thinner coldplate.
A thicker cold plate will not help unless your at a higher inefficiency, thinner coldplate works better with more efficiency.