Socket 775 Insulation pics?

Could someone post a few pics of their socket 775 insulated for 24/7 use? I don't see how I could possibly do this safely with all the capacitors around the cpu...

thx in advance

Dumo has some pics at the botton of the topic
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=105834

here is how one guy did it here

i did it by first using a brush on conformal coating around the socket, with the coating i covered up the spaces under the cap around the socket. then i did a coating on the back of the board.

after that i used a piece of square stick on neoprene on the back, then i moved back to the front of the board and used seal string (messy stuff) aound the socket, especially between the socket and the caps.

i am using a chilly-1 hold down kit so from there i just forced a seal with the seal string and the foam doanut.

hope this helps i can't really take a picture at the moment, you can find more people that have done this insulation by using the search function.

EDIT:beat me to it^^^ see there is more than one way to do it

im just using grease in the socket and on the cpu.
once mobo is hot and running those caps around the socket act like a heater element keeping the electonics warm so no condensation forms.
dont let the cooler get below -40c though to first boot the pc otherwise the board around the socket get cold and condensation forms and cant boot pc.
these is where a controller helps.

i have put small bits of enclosed foam in all the small air gaps of the metal 775 clip part of the socket.

this is how i insulate my mobo, air tight so no condensation.;)

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/9530/18ax.th.jpg

http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/7006/21tl1.th.jpg

http://img122.imageshack.us/img122/5...74438hn.th.jpg

http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/1243/cpu1xh.th.jpg

How much insulation do you place between the backplate and back of the mobo?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337

How much insulation do you place between the backplate and back of the mobo?

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i use 2 sheets of 6mm enclosed foam.
i have 4 10mm nylon washers between the back plate and the mobo so not to compress the foam too much

Quote:

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Originally Posted by outcast623

here is how one guy did it here

i did it by first using a brush on conformal coating around the socket, with the coating i covered up the spaces under the cap around the socket. then i did a coating on the back of the board.

after that i used a piece of square stick on neoprene on the back, then i moved back to the front of the board and used seal string (messy stuff) aound the socket, especially between the socket and the caps.

i am using a chilly-1 hold down kit so from there i just forced a seal with the seal string and the foam doanut.

hope this helps i can't really take a picture at the moment, you can find more people that have done this insulation by using the search function.

EDIT:beat me to it^^^ see there is more than one way to do it

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I got a chilly1 single stage so I got the same kit as you. Wouldn't the dohnut crush the caps though?

Kayl - when idling(evap temp -48), are you sure the cold wouldn't spread to the capacitors? Its really not that far to go...

Edit: I should probably add that it gets REALLY humid here at times. (like 90%+ humidity)

nope not at all, it is foam after all;)

i think what Kayl means is dont let it get to -40c before you start your computer, start it at like -20c or so so the heat from the mobo helps prevent condensation

EDIT: i really like the way Kayl did his insulation and i will end up re-doing mine to avoid using sealstring, if you mimick Kayls you may want to take some di-electric or vasoline and put in on the bottum of the doanut to help seal agaisnt the insulation and doanut. (just some extra precaution may not be necessary

one hertz as Outcaste623 said you must boot your pc no colder than around -40c. Ie with my cascade I would boot pc once second stage hits -40c and while the pc boots the evaps temps fall down to -100c. At this stage with the pc running the caps heatup and get really hot, since they are hotter than the dewpoint no condensation should form on the areas past theses caps. When you are waiting for the cooler to cool down once it gets to around -40c because the pc isn’t running the caps that were at room temps are now close to 0c and the dew point of the electronics no matter what the humidity is will start to get condensation forming in a big circle around your socket on all the mosfets n stuff which isn’t good becoming moist. If ya cant boot at stock speeds or system isn’t stable then this is a good indicator that you have condensation or a bad mount. Best way is to coat every electronic surface you can around the socket to protect it best you can like in ssilencers guide. I have decided not to do this and take the risk as cleaning the socket is a lot easier than the PCB covered in nail polish or grease. Also switching to air don’t have to deal with a sticky socket like when using dielectric grease. If the system is going to be 24/7 then insulate it once and bench. Only have to redo if changing cpu etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kayl

one hertz as Outcaste623 said you must boot your pc no colder than around -40c. Ie with my cascade I would boot pc once second stage hits -40c and while the pc boots the evaps temps fall down to -100c. At this stage with the pc running the caps heatup and get really hot, since they are hotter than the dewpoint no condensation should form on the areas past theses caps. When you are waiting for the cooler to cool down once it gets to around -40c because the pc isn’t running the caps that were at room temps are now close to 0c and the dew point of the electronics no matter what the humidity is will start to get condensation forming in a big circle around your socket on all the mosfets n stuff which isn’t good becoming moist. If ya cant boot at stock speeds or system isn’t stable then this is a good indicator that you have condensation or a bad mount. Best way is to coat every electronic surface you can around the socket to protect it best you can like in ssilencers guide. I have decided not to do this and take the risk as cleaning the socket is a lot easier than the PCB covered in nail polish or grease. Also switching to air don’t have to deal with a sticky socket like when using dielectric grease. If the system is going to be 24/7 then insulate it once and bench. Only have to redo if changing cpu etc.

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Thx a lot for all the help everyone, I'll try to do it Kayl's way.

Thanks alot for the tips:toast: . I gota insulate a Asus P5W DH Deluxe in a couple of weeks :eek: :eek: