CU-waterblock in CNC

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06-14-2006, 12:15 PM
JacobHL

CU-waterblock in CNC

Hello to you XS :) Long time reader, new poster.

Me and a friend plan on making our own low-budget(very low!) watercooling, getting parts in the cheapest way possible, while still having some performance, and very low noise.

While this is the first time eigher of us try watercooling, i have okay basic-knowledge of it. My friend has access to an CNC machine, so it is pretty obvious where we get our waterblock :) We only plan on cooling the CPU for starters.

Anyhow, here is the idea I had.
http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/5...erblock5et.jpg

Blue is water-in, and red is water-out. Dont mind the weird pins, just me being a bit too lazy there :).

I hope that it is not too restrictive. Maybe we should make the block smaller in heigh, thus increasing the flow a bit(right?)

Since this is a low-budget DIY watercooling, the pump we will use might be a cheap Eheim-1000 moddet to be inline. But i just dont know if the waterblock will require a stronger pump.

We do not need extreme low temperatures, just something in the leauge of high-end air or something, but the noise must be kept at a minimum.

I hope i am not asking very stupid questions or something.. But what do you think of the block-design?
06-14-2006, 12:19 PM
Bail_w

The design looks pretty good. but what is the red dot for?
06-14-2006, 12:23 PM
Ominous Gamer

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bail_w

The design looks pretty good. but what is the red dot for?

Way to go on actually reading his post.:rolleyes:

With water cooling the heat does not get very far from the core of the CPU. There is no need to double back on yourself in the design, not to mention you might end up creating clearance problems with the tubes.
06-14-2006, 12:23 PM
Torin

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bail_w

The design looks pretty good. but what is the red dot for?

Water-out, did you read the first sentence beneath the picture?
06-14-2006, 12:29 PM
ReD.SkY

The best desing is... coolwater on the core, and quick exit out of the block

the rad is the exit of the water
06-14-2006, 01:13 PM
JacobHL

Well, second design.. Dont mind the sides, i am just a sketchup-fool.. :) The sides, which are closed without water now is supposted to be solid.
Might start over on the design, but how is it now?. Now the water does not come direct on core, but a little below, but passes over core.

Dont mind the weird angles and all the stuff that looks very.. wrong - i rushed it a bit :) Especially the left side is weird.

http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/1...rblock24xc.jpg
06-14-2006, 01:21 PM
cirthix

tbh, that design doesnt look that good to me. keep playing with ideas though, they will always get better :)
06-14-2006, 01:21 PM
ReD.SkY

design* on my post... the thing is... in both youre designs... the water enters the block, then passes over the core, then exits the block..

in the highest performing blocks... water enters AT the core, and exits somewhere immediately. So the water isnt there long enought to get very warm.
06-14-2006, 01:39 PM
Ominous Gamer

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReD.SkY

design* on my post... the thing is... in both youre designs... the water enters the block, then passes over the core, then exits the block..

in the highest performing blocks... water enters AT the core, and exits somewhere immediately. So the water isnt there long enought to get very warm.

His design is fine for the performance he is trying to reach. Only more recent waterblocks use the "on core" inlet, everything before that (like the Maze 4) use the idea he has drawn up.
With that said, I would remove the inlet columns and extend the rows just a little. The columns won't do anything for where you have them.
06-14-2006, 04:45 PM
The Dome

looks a bit restrictive for a lower head pump, but that all depends on how many pins are really indeed used....
06-14-2006, 05:54 PM
Fuzzy_3D

If anything, increasing the number of fins will increase the surface area and therefore performance. I know there is a limit depending on the CNC machine and the heads you use, but if you can squeeze in more, that will help.

Edit: Which app are you using do do the sketches?
06-14-2006, 06:32 PM
JacobHL

I use Google Sketchup, it's easy and free - even though i still suck at it :)
http://sketchup.google.com/

What is most restrictive - fins or pins?
Right now they are combined, but would i benefit from cutting out one of them, and making it all fins or pins?

About the CNC machine. I think i remember my friend talking about 3mm at the very least, preferable 4-5.

I'll try to make another one tomorrow, one that enters in the centre, and going two ways and meeting on the side. I just dont know if i should focus on pins or fins.

The model i make is in no way final-like, and i have no idea about how many pins we will be able to squeeze in - i'm just drawing the basic block-idea.

btw. thanks for all the help so far. Great to get so many good answers in so little time.
06-14-2006, 06:33 PM
ReD.SkY

round pins will be the least restrictive...
06-14-2006, 06:40 PM
Fuzzy_3D

Quote:

Originally Posted by ReD.SkY

round pins will be the least restrictive...

But pins are more restrictive than fins, due to turbulance.

At 3mm, if you want the least restriction, don't bother with the pins. You should however, bring the fins to a point, so the water stream splits, instead of hitting the top face.

Edit: What CPU are you cooling?
06-14-2006, 07:15 PM
alexio

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fuzzy_3D

But pins are more restrictive than fins, due to turbulance.

This was tested, and found to be not quite true. I don't have a link to this article, but it was tested by an expert.

At the TS, look for reviews of waterblocks and try to make a block that is close to the best performing blocks on the market today. Look for small fins and pins and most surface area right above the core. Depending on the design of your waterblock 2-5mm base tickness is best.
06-14-2006, 07:53 PM
Ominous Gamer

For your machine, and lack of skill of forming blocks... do not try pins.

Use fins, just take some pointers from the Maze 4, its still an amazing block and easy to duplicate.
Even swiftech can't machine the pin design correctly without breaking some and leaving crap in the block.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alexio

This was tested, and found to be not quite true. I don't have a link to this article, but it was tested by an expert.

At the TS, look for reviews of waterblocks and try to make a block that is close to the best performing blocks on the market today. Look for small fins and pins and most surface area right above the core. Depending on the design of your waterblock 2-5mm base tickness is best.

I just read an article that pitted 3 GPU blocks againist each other, the maze 4 lost by 2C temp wise, but had the least restriction, the other two blocks were pin designs.
06-14-2006, 08:16 PM
ReD.SkY

lol... why dont you just copy a MP-05 or something similar?
06-15-2006, 05:03 AM
JacobHL

hehe, I see that I made a minor discussion about pins vs fins :)

I made a new design, in this one it enters right on core, exits at both sides, and then team up again on the other side of the block. I have realised that the CNC machine we will use might not be the best for small pins :)
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/4...rblock37mi.jpg
So.. How is this? Should i just forget the fins in the end, near the exit? Do they make the block unnessacary restrictive without giving performance?

And again.. Thanks a lot guys - you are really helping here :)

EDIT: We plan on using it on a conroe when it is out. What sizes should the block approximately be?
06-15-2006, 07:02 AM
XS Janus

This thread is right on the money as I'm contemplating some designs in my head right now. Thanks for the application info ;)

Do you have any 1inlet/2outlet block design ideas?

Also, guys, how important is the depth of the block or height of pins/fins if you will?
Which is better lower or higher?
________
INDIAN COOKING
06-15-2006, 07:27 AM
clokker

Answers to all these questions are readily available at Pro-Forums.
06-15-2006, 08:48 AM
[XC] MarioMaster

i think it would be sweet to use that same design but with that extra part on both sides and have a dual output block
06-15-2006, 09:19 AM
XS Janus

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarioMaster

i think it would be sweet to use that same design but with that extra part on both sides and have a dual output block

I think so too...

Clokker thx for the link:)
________
Montana marijuana dispensary
06-15-2006, 09:39 AM
Kalway

Basically mirror the outlet to the other side and would probably work pretty well. I suggest taking a look at how cathar designed the white water and using some pointers there. Might want to make the top of those fins lower, by the way.
06-15-2006, 10:04 AM
Fuzzy_3D

Here's what I came up with.

http://members.shaw.ca/nick_anti/Block3s.jpg http://members.shaw.ca/nick_anti/Block1s.jpg http://members.shaw.ca/nick_anti/Block2s.jpg

Click to enlarge.
06-15-2006, 10:15 AM
JacobHL

Would something like this be allright? About the rounded sides, that is only because i just added something to my previous model :)
http://img468.imageshack.us/img468/9...rblock45tr.jpg

I'm still thinking it might be a little too restrictive, but am I way off on that one?

Fuzzy_3D - Maybe it is just me, but i think one end of that design will have still-water(Pardon my english). I mean, wont the water stand still, and just flow directly from intake to outtake?

About the pump, we are currently thinking about Hydor L20/L30. Since this is a small loop, consisting only of CPU, will they be enough?

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