Removing the A64 IHS

I'm thinking of taking the "Road {much} Less Travelled" and walking that road naked. That is to say, without the protective IHS on my A64 3400.

Two problems:

1.) There's no definitive guide on the Net I've been able to Google

2.) This is a new 3-year warranty bird, and she's a very poor overclocker.

Solution A. Compromise my integrity, and return the chip claiming it's faulty, hoping for a better overclocker?

Solution B. Remove the IHS for another 5C (I belive the benefits of removing this 800lb Gorilla outwiegh that of Northwood temps after removal)?

Solution C. GET THESE DAM PROMETEIA'S FIXED (and give SIlverSink his).

HElp? Anyone Do this? Anyone do this on a Prescott? My 3.0C IHS removal gave me a 7C total temp reduction. My 2.4C only got about 4C. Both performed better, and better contact was made with waterblocks in each case though.

Number 1 :D

I hear the cores crush pretty easy but i dont know.

They're pretty fragile. Screw integrity, go for the overclock.

lol are you just gonna send it back or try and kill it first, and how

Agreed, return it for a better clocker.

Kill it with static :D

lol thats what i was gonna do to mine.

Did it with my 3400+ gave me 7C better temps and about 50mhz better oc. Very easy to do. Take a standard razor blade make sure its parallel to the IHS. There's and area that's open, start there and very carefully work your way around.

I´ve been thinking of doing this to....

Liquid Bro.. lemme know how I goes if you do it...and how you did it.

Here's a guide to removing the IHS on an AMD 3xxx+ 64Bit CPU.

Edit: Link fix :)

It's written in danish but with lots of pictures.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Liquid3D
My 3.0C IHS removal gave me a 7C total temp reduction. My 2.4C only got about 4C. Both performed better, and better contact was made with waterblocks in each case though.

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I have also 3.0C with stepping SL6WU L342, can i safetly remove my IHS ? Because i have read some months ago, about issue with epoxy termal grase and destroyed EE (M0) core...

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Originally posted by comment
Here's a guide to removing the IHS on an AMD 3xxx+ 64Bit CPU

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:toast: :toast:

Quote:

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Originally posted by DjTonic
I have also 3.0C with stepping SL6WU L342, can i safetly remove my IHS ? Because i have read some months ago, about issue with epoxy termal grase and destroyed EE (M0) core...

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You can't be sure not to harm the CPU by doing it I'm affraid. A fellow geek at overclocking.dk killed his P4 3.0C SL6WK trying to remove the IHS - it was soldered og glued to the core :(

I just took the dive 'n removed the IHS on my A64 3200+ and I only saw about a 3C temperature drop.... Probably won't help further overclocking, but any gain is good I suppose. HOPEFULLY I'll get another 2C drop after the AS5 settles, but from my experience, it almost never happens.

Tip: Use a paper thin razor blade, this is the ONLY way to do it.

People who saw higher than 3C temp drops: From my experience with an SLK-948U, the pressure on the CPU die (with the IHS) is insufficient. I could still jiggle the heatsink slightly when it was securely screwed onto the backplate. Therefore I put 2 washers underneath the spring to increase the tension, until the heatsink wouldn't budge.

This is why I think I only got a 3C drop. Anyone using an thermalright heatsink should do what I did with the washers to increase the tension.

Regarding the P4 IHS: I'm 99% sure that ONLY the M0 (including P4 EE) cores are epoxied. All other steppings use thermal paste.

AS I UNDERSTAND IT:

I was under the impression that Intel has been shifting all P4 packages to have the IHS epoxied on, not just greased

the new packaging started with the P4-EE and subsequent M0 stepping cores, and then prescott packages had the epoxy too.

With the new 30 cap packages the newer D1 stepping cores are getting the same treatment too.

intel just sees it pretty simply: epoxy results in better thermal transfer than the grease they were using before. there are doubtlessly other advantages too.

also, if you look at pictures on the web, you can see that intel omits the nickel plating where the core comes in contact with the IHS, thus further improving thermal transfer.

In the case of the P4 (nearly most that are shipping today), the TIM joint added as a result of the IHS is most likely negligable, not worth pulling off (you'll kill the core), but probably worth lapping down if you're that much worried about it.

as far as the A64, I would pull off the IHS, but all depends on the person

Quote:

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Originally posted by DjTonic
I have also 3.0C with stepping SL6WU L342, can i safetly remove my IHS ? Because i have read some months ago, about issue with epoxy termal grase and destroyed EE (M0) core...

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I wouldn't recommend removing the IHS if the processor was purchased in the last 7-months. Since the release of the EE's epoxy is used. Why? It's much better (providing it's silver epoxy) then the Shin-Etsu they were using.

Thank you all so much for replying. Sorry it took so long to get back, I had to edite my email address. I miss it here, and it just goes to shopw there's two sides to every story, issue, coin, Eastern Philosophy, and even your teeth have their back-side (which is often the most important because it's not seen, it's more important one brushes there). Anyway if you don't know what I'm speking on, I can't/won't say in the name of amends, and fairness.

I was thinking of returning the chip claiming it's not performing properly, as fabricating isn't in my spirit, but this has the truth in it. Do you think the Egg tests these returns, or simply ships another?

On another topic. I decided to spend $180 for a Digi-Doc and got this thing by Chaintech called the ZNF3-250. It's resembles a motherboard, but has very limited BIOS options. No multiplier access, and no BIOS updates as yet. Can anyone tell me what these setting do?

DDR Drive Strength
Feedback Drive Strength

options are Normal and 2X

also there's
DDR Skew Adjust
Feedback Skew Adjust

options are 1,2,3 and I beleive Disabled, or 0?

I have to warn that AMD SOI cores are very fragile. This is the reason IHS was introduced in the first place.

use some old AthlonXP or Duron rubber pumpers an the edges!

Well... I removed mine...and with a SLK978 coupled with a Alu fan 80mm @12v i got 4C decrease in idle temps and about 10C decrease in load temps.

Before I removed the IHS I tried to remount the SLK 5 times just to be sure I didn´t got it wrong...but same temps every time.

So in this case I think the modd was worth it.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Naughtyboy
Well... I removed mine...and with a SLK978 coupled with a Alu fan 80mm @12v i got 4C decrease in idle temps and about 10C decrease in load temps.

Before I removed the IHS I tried to remount the SLK 5 times just to be sure I didn´t got it wrong...but same temps every time.

So in this case I think the modd was worth it.

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Did you get a higher stable clock too?

do i have to cut this ihs off when i am using a prommi ??? i will pruchase a a64 in 1-2 weeks and i will purchase (just for this cpu) a second prommi with socket 754 kit (and sell my old prommi with socket a kit :D) so it would be cool to know if i have to cut this thing off

Demogorg

Quote:

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Originally posted by comment
Did you get a higher stable clock too?

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Yes about 80mhz

Quote:

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Originally posted by Naughtyboy
Yes about 80mhz

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Okay, a little better. It seems that the A64's are more clock-sensitive to removing the IHS than the P4's. My P4 didn't get higher clocks and others I've talked with on this issue had the same experience.

But even thou I didn´t get any significant increase in clocks....I could run it at lower voltage than before even with thoose extra 80mhz added....a good thing IMHO

is it possible to mount the mach1 on a a64 without that spreader? because i´m thinking about getting a mobile 3200+ and throw it under my prommy. gonna use the retail mounting kit

I removed one on a 3200+ i had, it yielded better results on air. Alot better temps actually, and i think around 50Mhz prime stable more.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Liquid3D

Solution B. Remove the IHS for another 5C (I belive the benefits of removing this 800lb Gorilla outwiegh that of Northwood temps after removal)?
HElp? Anyone Do this? Anyone do this on a Prescott? My 3.0C IHS removal gave me a 7C total temp reduction. My 2.4C only got about 4C. Both performed better, and better contact was made with waterblocks in each case though.

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newer P4's have the IHS epoxy'ed on.... dont try to remove it. i think this may be that case with A64's aswell. if you remove the IHS, the core is comming of fthe package with it.

I dropped 7-8 degrees (water) on a FX53-939 cpu, but the thing is that when you re-mount the exposed core you have to apply much less force that what is called for under the IHS spec. Do not overtighten and it helps to place a few pads around the core.

the chances of damage are compounded greatly if you plan on moving the cpu on and off fairly regularly. The top can be sealed back on if you are very carefull.

Quote:

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Originally posted by HKPolice
Therefore I put 2 washers underneath the spring to increase the tension, until the heatsink wouldn't budge.

This is why I think I only got a 3C drop. Anyone using an thermalright heatsink should do what I did with the washers to increase the tension.

Regarding the P4 IHS: I'm 99% sure that ONLY the M0 (including P4 EE) cores are epoxied. All other steppings use thermal paste.

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Shouldn't you also file down the standoffs, since the screws bottom out on them? That would compensate for the lower position of the heatsink with the IHS Removed.

As far as the Epoxy goes... Has anyone removed one from a *NEW* Athlon 64? I just finished a system for someone with a A64 +3200, and Gigabyte Pro nf3 250 board, and I would like to lower the temps, but I don't want to go destroying the chip.

Thanks,

Roydrage

just cut the gum and try to remove the heatspreader very carefully... if it wont come off just leave it on :)

or ask sysfailure about it ;) and send him greetings from me :D

I ordered my 3200+ CG 5AR about a week ago from newegg and just removed the IHS with no problems..

I have about 6C - 7C drop in temp with about 80mhz increase in a stable overclock...

Just need to be careful and patient...

what cooling is that? do you have any pics of it?

6-7C° is nice! idle or under load?

I'm using the Swifty 6400 V with 92mm tornado... I have the tornado running with about 6-7v.

I don't have any pics. I will have a new Cannon A75 Digi Cam on Tuesday. I don't think I will pull it back apart until next weekend. Summer term starts for me on Monday..

At stock speed my idle temp was 39 -40C with the system temp at about 34 -35C (using MSI ' s Corecell) Load temp was about 48 - 49C...

At 2400mhz my idle temp was at about 43 - 44C and load temp was 53 -54C..

After I removed the IHS my idle temp at 2400mhz is about 38C and my load temp hovers around 47C, that is with only 6-7v to the tornado ( my temps drop between 1-2C with 12v to the tornado)

yeah, that heatsink is very nice! does a 120mm fan fit on it?

i have a bunch of 120 mm deltas here (38mm thick 2800rpm iirc) wich are extremely nice. at 12v they move 100cfm without making a lot of noise.

and at 5v they still move a lot of air (i guess around 50cfm or more!) and are almost completely silent!

you should try one of them if you can find them. should get you really nice low temps.

Thats kind of funny you say that, because I bought the swifty instead of the thermalright, so I could use a 120mm X 38 fan..

I had a 120 X 38mm 130cfm fan mounted on it with a 120mm to 92mm fan adapter. It was a little quieter, but didn't cool as good.

I got the fan adapter from Frozencpu.com. I don't like it though. It said it was for a 120mm to 92mm adaption, but on the 120mm side the hole opening is a little to small. (cutting off some of the air flow from the 120mm fan. The 92mm side is just fine. It mounts just fine on the Swifty and the 120mm fan...

I would recommend getting one of the all aluminum built 120mm to 92mm adapters.
I will get one in next couple of weeks and try it again. I did like the quiet 120mm fan, but with the tornado at 6-7v it is pretty quiet, but not as much as the 120mm...
:toast:

Quote:

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Originally posted by Jasonxxx
Thats kind of funny you say that, because I bought the swifty instead of the thermalright, so I could use a 120mm X 38 fan..

I had a 120 X 38mm 130cfm fan mounted on it with a 120mm to 92mm fan adapter. It was a little quieter, but didn't cool as good.

I got the fan adapter from Frozencpu.com. I don't like it though. It said it was for a 120mm to 92mm adaption, but on the 120mm side the hole opening is a little to small. (cutting off some of the air flow from the 120mm fan. The 92mm side is just fine. It mounts just fine on the Swifty and the 120mm fan...

I would recommend getting one of the all aluminum built 120mm to 92mm adapters.
I will get one in next couple of weeks and try it again. I did like the quiet 120mm fan, but with the tornado at 6-7v it is pretty quiet, but not as much as the 120mm...
:toast:

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Get that Alu adapter
this:
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/delffb1212eh.html
and this:
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduc...999-903&depa=0
:)
That fan controller is really good Im ordering one today you can adjust fans from 0v - 12v. Does anyone know if theres a way to mount a 120mm on a SP-94 :D (that isnt really ghetto) also is SP-94 still the best retail S478 heatsink?

just 20$? damn, cant find that fan here in germany....

termaltake just released an alu sp-94. its almost 2 times as big as the copper one though, so it could cool even better than the sp-94. i havent seen a review of it yet, though.

Sorry to bump an old topic but has anyone had an IHS epoxied to an A64 core? I want to take the IHS off my 3000+ CG core that I got retail from newegg when the VNF3-250 came out but I'm affraid it might be epoxied on...

so far i havent heard of an epoxied ihs on an a64.

Ok now I just have to Vmod the board, graphics card, PSU, fit everything into a case, take the shim off my 9500pro, hope I dont kill the chip, and than hope everything works :stick:

Hi!

Just wanted to thank you all for the useful comments & links on removing the A64 heatspreader. It helped me a lot.

Great temperature drop and much better overclock at lower voltage.

To see screenshots, just look here:
http://www.planet3dnow.de/vbulletin/...hreadid=175268

Sorry, it's a german site. But I think pictures and numbers can be easily understood. ;)


Martin

willkommen auf XtremeSystems martin :D :toast:

20C lower load temps are HUGE! :eek: thats really really sick...
was there enough termal grease on the core when you removed the ihs?

Hi!

The heatspreader fitted very good, actually. And there was also enough thermal grease on it.

http://home.arcor.de/xxmartin/A64/a64_ihs.jpg

But not only the 20K temperature drop was great. The most important fact is

with IHS -> 2500 MHz only @ 1.600V primestable
with IHS -> 2600 MHz not primestable, even with 1.850V

without IHS -> 2500 MHz @ 1.500V (click me!)
without IHS -> 2600 MHz @ 1.625V (click me!)

It's just great. At the moment I am playing around with this
http://home.arcor.de/xxmartin/A64/2700.png

:D

Guess it's a quite good result with only standard watercooling.

Martin

use A straight double sided edge rasor for slicing and then gently pry up each corner and edge till she pops.

Hmm, I might have to give this a try. With the number of Mobiles being sold, the cores can't be that fragile. If I take my time and mount my Cascade with even pressure, I think I'll be fine. The only thing that worries me is that the LR Cascade does not use springs when mounted on an A64.

I would leave the IHS on unless you have a really bad overclocker. If it overclocks well that means the IHS is making great contact and you won't see much increase if any. If it doesn't OC well it may be because the thermal paste was not properly applied or the IHS was not installed properly.

Also, when using an evap you had better be very careful. Personally I have not experienced any performance increase from removing the IHS. Also, the ClawHammers are less delicate than the Newcastles because they are larger. It's not worth the risk IMO. I run my FX-53 naked because I bought it that way, but I would never have removed the IHS myself because it made no difference on the 2 A64s I tried it on previously.;)

no difference at all in temps and ocability?

thats odd.

i heard from several people who removed the ihs that they got at least a 1C drop, most got around 4C under load.

Ok, here's a question. I'm selling my 3200+ in favor of a great clocking 3400+. The 3400+ has the IHS removed, but will my waterblocks work with it off?

TDX and MCw-6002?

Quote:

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Originally posted by WesM63
Ok, here's a question. I'm selling my 3200+ in favor of a great clocking 3400+. The 3400+ has the IHS removed, but will my waterblocks work with it off?

TDX and MCw-6002?

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As long as your watercooler uses the 2-mounting-hole-screwing and NOT the retention modul there should be no problem at all.

I guess your waterblock is fixed with springs? That should work any way. However, be careful not to use same pressure as for an A64 with IHS. The SOI-dies are said to be very fragile.

Do the cores crush easily or just chip?

The reason I ask is that my Cascasde water block does not require springs in an A64 setup. I take my time mounting the block, so the pressure is very even. I don't stop until the screws stop moving. It's a very stable and even mount that's not likely to chip the core. If crushing is a possibility, I won't be removing the IHS.

I quote A recent post by Cathar, designer of the cascade etc:

"Almost every single cooling device on the planet will perform better if the IHS is removed. The IHS is a hindrance to the removal of heat from the CPU die. It does nothing at all to help keep the CPU cool except in the very limited scenario of poorly designed and performing aluminium based heatsinks. Anyone remember the original stock all-aluminium P4 air-coolers? Anyone?"

I'm going to give it a try. My 3200+ Clawhammer won't budge past 2.4 GHz, even at 1.8V.

Quote:

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Originally posted by StormPC
I would leave the IHS on unless you have a really bad overclocker. If it overclocks well that means the IHS is making great contact and you won't see much increase if any. If it doesn't OC well it may be because the thermal paste was not properly applied or the IHS was not installed properly.

Also, when using an evap you had better be very careful. Personally I have not experienced any performance increase from removing the IHS. Also, the ClawHammers are less delicate than the Newcastles because they are larger. It's not worth the risk IMO. I run my FX-53 naked because I bought it that way, but I would never have removed the IHS myself because it made no difference on the 2 A64s I tried it on previously.;)

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lol, I must have one of those really bad overclockers :D

5 deg C drop in core temp and an extra 84 MHz from my 3400+/prommy setup :)

worth it in MO? It depends on how badly you want that extra Mhz :D

what temps are you getting?

CPU core temp running prime95 as follows:

Before IHS removal:

1.55V -11 deg C, -48 on the evap
1.60V -10 deg C, -47 on the evap


After IHS removal:

1.55V -17 deg C, -48 on the evap
1.60V -15 deg C, -47 on the evap

unfortunately I didnt take temp readings at the higher voltages, these are all that I wrote down.

Also, I didnt notice any significant OC gains at the lower voltages. The real benefit only became aparent at 1.8V and higher. At first I thought the mod was a waste of time (only tested up to 1.6V on the first night) , then the following night I did some 1.95V runs and got a SuperPi 1M at 3044 Mhz.

Well, I took mine off. I have to say guys, it was pretty easy. My first CPU "hack" was taking the cartridge off of my Slot A Athlon and this paled in comparison. It took me all of ten minutes with a razor blade. I even hard mounted my Cascade with no trouble or cracked core.

The jury is still out on its effectiveness, but we'll see how it goes. The temperature sensor on my 8KDA3J is obviously in socket because it goes up when I remove the side cover and its 120mm blowhole fan. With my water cooling in place, that's not sensible. I'll have to rely on improved performance rather than temperatures to judge its effects. I'm currently Priming at a speed that failed after two hours before removing the IHS. Hopefully the AS5 will cure a bit while Priming. I want 2.5 GHz damnit!

PS: Anybody else think the IHS would make a damn good keychain? :toast:

Does anyone know if the alpha8150 will work once the IHS is removed? I'm currently getting 2.43 with two sticks of ram and 2.49 with one stick of ram. Hoping removing the IHS will put me over 2.5.

welcome to XtremeSystems flak :toast:

well we can def say that removing the ihs doesnt decrease your oc, so even if the gain is small, its there :)

what mounting mechanism does your hsf use flak?

the alpha8150 screws into the backplate. but the screws are setup such that they can only be screwed down so far. I'm thinking that for it to work I will have to find screws the proper length that will fit.

they are all standardtised, so it sdhouldnt be a problem.

on videocards the holes are perfect for 4mm screws, dont know about cpu holes.

I had removed My IHS, but I couldnt get good contact with it off.
After this I put it back on with AS5 & gain 150mhz clock with 22c lower on idle.

This sounds like alot but I can clock way higher with less voltage now.

Mine was not making good contact with the IHS, there was a big bubble in the center of the factory clue.


Well worth it. I am on air BTW.

Also it helps to heat the spreader when cutting it off. Just us a cig lighter.

So why not just get a 3200+ A64 M that comes without the IHS? Isn't "CG" supposed to OC better? Or do the newcastles OC better? I'll transition to A64 as soon as I learn enough about the new chipsets and the DFI board comes out :D

there are newcastle c0 and cg chips, and clawhammer c0 and very few clawhammer cg chips afaik.

the clawhammer cg chips are what everybody is looking for afaik.

i think i will make this thread sticky

No such thing as CO Newcastles they are disabled Clawhammers. (Newegg and others label them wrongly).

ahhhh thx for correcting me :)

:D :D

Quote:

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Originally posted by xxORBxx
Number 1 :D

I hear the cores crush pretty easy but i dont know.

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Yeaaah..
Better Overclock :smileysex

Well I did it to my a64 3000 about an hour ago and idle temp's look much better have to wait for the AS5 to set to see what kinda max I can get now.

jonspd
How much lower temps are you getting already?

Well full load isn't hitting 50C+ anymore it's more around 46 and idle temp has droped over 5c lower then before as for the overclock I was able to run 236 before @ 1.7 and now I can run about 242 after with same volt's.

After AS5 set's I'am hoping for around 44c full load @ 2.45 with about 1.72 volts I will have to put the mod back on of course tho:banana:

Hi everyone,

Sorry for the delayed update, if anyone cares. The day before I removed my IHS, my gig of 3700EB arrived. Turns out, one of the sticks is bad. So while my initial results after IHS removal were "disasterous" because I never in a thousand years thought my RAM would be bad, they are now sweet with my backup RAM installed. That's what I get for changing two components in a system at the same time :)

Before IHS removal, I could not go higher than 2.4 GHz on 1.8V. I'm now Prime stable at 2.48 GHz @ 1.8V and climbing. I'm currently bumping it 20 Mhz at a time and Priming for 8 hours+. I know this means nothing for comparisons sake, but on my 8KDA3J with high-end water, I'm getting 40 - 42 degrees under load with an ambient temperature of 35 degrees. The temp sensor is not accurate though. The core temp goes up if I turn off my blowhole fan. The increased performance says it all IMO. I hope to get to 2.5 GHz and beyond, but we'll see.

Well, turns out 2480 wasn't stable. 2470 is though. I'll take a 70 Mhz gain for 10 minutes of work. Hopefully 2.5 GHz+ will be atainable in the winter months.

is there any problem at all with contact pressure from a SLK948u on the epox NF3 board if i take the IHS off? also how delicate is the core? do i need to worry about it getting crushed without the IHS?

I'am using the same HSF without a problem about contact. As for the core it's pretty delicate. I would be sure to set the HSF a few time's before you set it for good or @ least thats what I did so I could see the contact it was getting off the patern of the hsf base.

well i just took the IHS off and it doesnt help at all or very little for me. only thing i havn't tried are all the bios available. im still looking for 5-14 bios that i was recommended but having trouble finding.

bios 5/14 HERE

hope it will help you

Has anyone any ideas on how to glue the spreader back on?
Just in case the CPU has got to be RMA'd?

Reading this thread it seems an easy mod for a few free MHz.

I would assume it isnt possible unless you can get some of the same stuff they used @ amd to mount it with or something that look's the same.

Yea...definitely being able to put the IHS back on to RMA it would be nice. I have a current max clock of 2.67ghz on air benchmark stable and will be taking off my IHS also get that new nanotherm PCM+ paste so hopefully better the temps even a bit more from this thread I heard a 60-80mhz increase in OC oh I would love to hit 2.75ghz on air. I will post back with results.

Argh!
Just removed the spreader, cleaned the core and removed all that black rubber-alike glue and reinstalled with AS5, my RBX on top and the nuts tighted up as firm as i dared. (almost as tight as with heatspreader. :eek: )

Guess what?

Just a lousy 2C gain idle and next to nothing under load! :(
Reseated the waterblock, no difference...

Maybe there is a small gain with more volts to the CPU, only tested with default voltage. :rolleyes:

I'am not sure if you can do this but Y not take some pad's from a old xp cpu put then on the A64 and leave the IHS off just be carefull when mounting the waterblock and dont overtighten it.

Well, the core is quit big, i think twice the size of a Barton core and looks pretty much the same material.

I've never cracked a Barton, not even with these very powerfull retentionclips of the SLK800.

This waterblock slides on and by tightening down the nuts about the same amount it should be ok, not too worried about cracking the core.

For some reason i don't think the contact is 100% so i will glue the heatspreader back on again as soon as i found the right type of glue.

To make matters worse, my max OC got down about 30MHz!! :mad: :(

You probably didn't make good contact with the core. Esp if you lost overclock. It can be tricky with the IHS removed and its very possible to get only a part of the core contacted. As far as glueing back on, I've heard that rubber cement works well, but haven't tested it.

and dont forget, some people seem to not get a big improvement at all, some cpus seem to make good contact with the ihs and unless you are pumping some high volts through it you wont notice a big difference with or without the ihs :)

removing the ihs is only worth it if you going for 1.85v+ or have very high temps/a bad oc with the ihs.

WARNING: Do not use the XP-120 with shim removed there isnt enought tension and since its using a P4 bracket there is no way to tighten it. Turned PC on and cpu was at 90c. Also accidently cut off part of those mini IC's near the core and cpu is dead now, trying to RMA it.

Quote:

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Originally posted by saaya
and dont forget, some people seem to not get a big improvement at all, some cpus seem to make good contact with the ihs and unless you are pumping some high volts through it you wont notice a big difference with or without the ihs :)

removing the ihs is only worth it if you going for 1.85v+ or have very high temps/a bad oc with the ihs.

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This would probably depend on cooling. People on Phase change are most likely going to see the better results, but regardless of cooling you should never see a drop in oc unless you have a bad mount.

I'm not just talking about making contact or getting in tightly snuged down. You can still have a bad mount regardless. Its very easy with the IHS removed to have more pressure on one area over another on the core. With my LS the difference between a bad mount and a good one is barely stable at 2.7G to running 3d near 3G. With a bad mount the highest area of pressure is always off to one side.

This is also the best way to not crush the core. Its going to be much more difficult to crush a core when the pressure is evenly distributed then off to one side.

As far as benifit, I think its a benefit even if you have a good overclock. I started with 2.93 on my FX and took the IHS off an ended up with 2.98.

Glued the spreader back on, removing it did bugger all for me. :(

Now everything seems to be back to normal.
I used AS5 between the core and spreader but doesn't make any difference over the stuff AMD used even though it was quit hard and dried out.

Perhaps the AS5 needs some time to break in? :rolleyes:

i would try and lap both sides of the IHS... down to a mirror finish... see how that works out

and AS5 has got to burn in
i've done 5 IHS's soo far... mostly on P4's... been getting good results from all of them... :hehe:

next rig may have a A-64 FX or an Intel EE... i dont know yet
but the cooling will be a lapped to copper and mirror finish XP-120 with a 120mm delta :D and a Vapochill LS sometime afterwards

well.. i took mine off yesterday, and i must say, it was definatly worth the time, temperatures dropped DRAMATICALLY. may i note i have an xp120 w/ 90cfm pana.. you'd think it'd be "dangerous" to mount this heatsink on such a fragile core, plz.. mounted NO problem at all!! this is a 3000+ by the way. heres the results

heatspreader on w/ stock : 32/41c
then heatspreader ON w/ XP120 : 28/35c
THEN heatspreader OFF w/ XP120 : 21/27c !!! woo :D

thx spork :D

http://www.spork.1gigabyte.com/es/a64luvin.jpg

http://www.spork.1gigabyte.com/es/21cyo.JPG

Taco how did you get the XP-120 to mount properly with the shim removed I had really bad contact.

I removed the ihs from a 3000+ last night. Cpu is a C0 stepping, 512k clawhammer, week 0343. It is indeed a failed clawhammer core as it uses the full sized 1mb die. Anyway, the ihs came off quickly and with no problems. I've only had a couple hours to test it out but the cpu is already running 70 mhz faster than its previous best overclock (2.6ghz vs 2.53) at approx. 6c cooler load temps. The before and after comparison may not be valid though as I used different heatsinks. The before was with a zalman7000-cu modified, using a 69cfm, 92mm fan and the after was with an xp-90 using the same fan. Gonna try this with a CG stepping core that overclocks a bit better....I wonder how the true NC core (being smaller)will transfer heat without the ihs.

Jay

Hi, i found at this forum 2 links to www with description about signs at A64, but i can't remember these adress, do you know where can i find it?
I think that it was writen by Karnivore or other advanced user.

Well finally got around to remove my IHS on my 3700+. Before with it on I maxed out around 2630mhz at 1.725v with my H2O setup. With it off I see a nice 70mhz jump and 4c decrease in temp. It took a few times reseeding my waterblock just making sure I don't crush the core. Never could run 3dmark at 2.7 no matter what voltage.

http://home.comcast.net/~phippy1/amd.bmp

Haven't ran prime yet but successfully ran looped 3dmark 10x without a single crash and SuperPI at 32. I'm assuming I'll need to drop it another 20mhz to make it prime stable.

Worth the removeable for me atleast.

Hey racerX that's a pretty neat little cpu program there. Where did ya pick it up?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bh2k

Hey racerX that's a pretty neat little cpu program there. Where did ya pick it up?

---

Another member posted it here......http://xtremesystems.org/forums/show...728#post553728

scroll down towards the bottom, can't miss it.

Yes a neat little program indeed.

"WARNING: Do not use the XP-120 with shim removed there isnt enought tension and since its using a P4 bracket there is no way to tighten it. Turned PC on and cpu was at 90c. Also accidently cut off part of those mini IC's near the core and cpu is dead now, trying to RMA it."

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

i noticed something when i removed the sp-120 i am using, the heatsink had transferred some thermal paste to the bracket on one side. so, i got to looking and the heatsink definately hangs right above it, so when you removed the CPU covering, the heatsink lowered but was held askew a little bit because of the heatsink hitting the bracket. easy fixola follows.

so, i solved this and the retention problem with a little peice of sandpaper (80grit), i sanded the bracket between the stands so there was sufficient clearance, and then to help with the tension because of the lower setting, i took the same piece of sandpaper and counted twenty strokes on each bottom leg, then remounted it with no problems. i know this isn't scientific, but it works. you may want to actually sand the feet a little more, depending on your inclinations.

anyway, now you know why your temps skyrocketed to 90*c.

baldy :D

i had no problem at all mounting the heatsink onto it. i actually made a shim with some thin rubber material i had laying around, JUST to be sure it didnt crush, but it actually didnt make contact, and it would shutdown automaticly. so i took those off, and just mounted it "as is" NOT one problem at all, my temps are amazing and i highly recomend the heatsink without the spreader ++ :toast: just be careful

ill get some high res pics up soon!

hmmm, I'm currently getting a 400mhz o/c out of my old (sept. '03) CO stepping 3100+ (1800-> 2200mhz) at 1.70v.

I used Tmod's biosmod to enable the Vcore setting of 1.80v on my Epox mobo but the extra voltage doesn't help at all o/c further.

Can I expect more out of this old chip or should I hold out for a new one. I don't feel like killing (and having to replace it) right now.

and reinstalled the xp-120.

got a 4/5*c drop in temps. i reduced the vre another .025, still running the 9x284. gonna keep reducing the vre until i find out what the lowest limit it will run this setting, then work from there.

hey, in the world of clocking, any temp drop is good.

one may note, i sanded the base bracket the legs again reducing the height even more than before, and then i sanded the base of the mounting brackets where is makes contact with the MB, ie screw holes, one must do this to get a flat fit, after i sanded the legs, the bracket rocked. also, by doing all this, one does slightly increase the heatsink pressure on the CPU, the heatspreader is quite thick and much tension is lost when running nude.

the heatspreader came off in about one minute, the whole operation took less than 20 minutes.

the cpu core is rather large, so 'landing' buttons are not needed.

this was very easy to do.

the only note of caution is be real carefull not to penetrate too far with the razorblade, there are little units inside around the core that can suffer damage is one is too aggressive.

clock on.

baldy :D