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Cool! I'll have a Infinity here tomorrow and will post some pics of the HIP6301 area. So, you found Rin on this board?
o
A droop mod would likely make this board capable of finding water on mars ;)
Seriously, drooping Vcore is about the only flaw in the board, and the main reason it's hard for me to push for high 3dmark scores, I beleive drooping is what causes so many 3dmark crashes at high FSB/high CPU speeds. Good luck with getting a mod to work!
hy
i think i found this 3 resistors,it conects from isen pins hip6301 to output from mosfets,i have an image:
http://tirado.do.sapo.pt/dfi_ultra.jpg
what is vdrop?
l
but the overcurrent mod no influence in vcore,only in vdrop?
i think im going to 2.7k fixed resistors to test overcurrent mod.
a
I was just abt to go out and buy some parts for doing some voltage mods on my stuff when i saw this.
Please post instructions or what info u need
i will be sat here waiting
mong
Right cant wait any longer im off to the shop
,
The pic isnt working :)
Great work on the mod hope it works.
m
k..who's first? :D Great work btw.. hope it rocks.
At last Vlad you are back,
Too late for me im afraid, I had my mthbrd on my desktop ALL DAY yesterday waiting for you to provide this information. I would have tried it, but not now.
In not ungrateful, this information could be what we are looking for and your work is commendable
:toast:
If only you posted this yesterday
:(
My PC has been put back together again, someone else will have to do this first and confirm if it works or not, then and only then will i take my PC apart again.
mongoled
Vlad, would the overcurrent mod be easier if you used a load balancing wire on the back of all 3 mosfets (assuming they all read the same voltage on their back and this is safe to gang them this way..) and then removed all 3 resistors for the isen pins on the IC and combined the inputs of the isen pins to the same resistor/VR instead of having to use 3? This would allow adjustment while running maybe, too.
Assuming everything is sensing the same voltage and each mosfet is being fed the same voltage this shouldnt be a problem I dont think..?
mmmkay, this looks nuckin futz. Vlad, you're obviously pretty familiar w/ the power regulator... how about that empty capacitor where u ground the vcore/sense mods? Can u figure out if thats part of the power regulation circuit, and if adding a cap there would help any? Just a shot in the dark, but if its gonna require this much soldering, might as well look into it. :)
Another, possibly just theoretical question: have u actually sat down and done the math on this circuit, to see if >2.1V vcore would actually trip the isen? Sure, somebody can try it, and just see if it works, but solid theory backing it never hurts.
Nice workaround :thumbsup:
But it seems it's not perfect yet. Maybe <b>Holst</b> can come here and have a look too. He could eventually confirm it would work ;)
Sorry but what's that exactly good for vdrop and overcurrent mod ?
Damn I can't w8 to see if this mod works to you guys, this will put my mobiles to the max!! :) (when the arrive)
Sai: the DFI boards won't go above 2.1V, even with a vsense mod. Also, there seems to be instability as soon as a vcore mod is hooked up. Vlad's theory is its actually being limited by the isen, so its pulling too much current when voltage is cranked that high. The overcurrent mod will allow more juice through, and hopefully resolve the 2.1V vcore, and stability, problems.
Damn, i could desolder those resistors, but my DMM died somehow. :confused:
I wrecked the board, so i couldn't care less about desoldering those resistors, but without a DMM there's no use doing that eh? :mad:
e
So wait, is this gonna help us get MORE than 2.1V vcore??? Thats what everybody wants real bad. Or is it just to solve your isen problem?
I knew u just used that cap for a ground. I was asking if you knew what that cap slot is hooked to, and whether it'd be worth putting a cap in there.
v
:confused:Quote:
Originally posted by Vlad Draculea
STEvil it wont work because the load balancing wires should be in the other 3 mosfets.
Ok, in theory all 3 mosfets have the exact same voltage at the point where the VR is being attached, correct? If this is so, then the voltage at all 3 isen pins should also be the same.
If this is the case then we should be able to use a wire from each mosfet to the next and one wire from the center mosfet then to the VR then the 3 isen pins.. like this.
My experiences :DQuote:
Originally posted by Vlad Draculea
if it were the overvoltage we only would get a blank screen, no post not nothing, but instead we usually get reboots or hangups when in load and usually if we back up the mhz seriouslly we dont get reboots but extreme voltaje variations.
It definately cannot be overvoltage protection... as I already was at 2,45V VCore ;) (no vsense mod)
@STEvil
I see your point :)
IMO it's looking pretty logical too, as it would work ;)
hy people
i tested the mod and it works but i have a strange problem,after shutdown the pc does not boot anymore,whem press power on does nothing.only power on if i remove batery and reset bios for 1-2minutes,this problem only ocurs if vcore mod is make,please sugestions.with vsense mod the problem is the same.
thanks
Heck of a lot simpler than trying to calibrate 3 different VR's! ;)
Which mod specifically? Are you running cooling that takes your processor below 0 degrees celcius?Quote:
Originally posted by PORTUGAL
hy people
i tested the mod and it works but i have a strange problem,after shutdown the pc does not boot anymore,whem press power on does nothing.only power on if i remove batery and reset bios for 1-2minutes,this problem only ocurs if vcore mod is make,please sugestions.
thanks
Quote:
Originally posted by STEvil
Which mod specifically? Are you running cooling that takes your processor below 0 degrees celcius?
im using watercooling on the cpu,if i dont make the vcore mod this problem doesnt ocur,the overcurrent mod alows me to go higher mhz without reboots
o
Cool. The mod is working :D :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally posted by PORTUGAL
im using watercooling on the cpu,if i dont make the vcore mod this problem doesnt ocur,the overcurrent mod alows me to go higher mhz without reboots
But only getting higher without reboots? Does it mean it's not stable? :confused:
Can anyone confirm getting higher vcore/mhz fully stable with this mod?
hy
power on after shutdown solved,the cmosreloaded do not record the power on password.
yes the mod is working,and more stable.
with no mods at 10x240mhz 2.00vcore sometimes reboots runing prime or toast.
with mods at 10x248mhz 2.05vcore(in test at this moment)runing prime at 25minutes and no problems at moment.
i only make vcore mod and increase resistance isen from 2.2k to 2.7k.
Can you post pics please :D ?Quote:
Originally posted by PORTUGAL
hy
power on after shutdown solved,the cmosreloaded do not record the power on password.
yes the mod is working,and more stable.
with no mods at 10x240mhz 2.00vcore sometimes reboots runing prime or toast.
with mods at 10x248mhz 2.05vcore(in test at this moment)runing prime at 25minutes and no problems at moment.
i only make vcore mod and increase resistance isen from 2.2k to 2.7k.
Did you set the isen pots to 2,7K or how??? :confused:
im using fixed resistors,but if you use pots you can set them with a multimeter.
images more later.
So what fixed resistors are needed 2.7k ?? Please pics now, I wanna do this today. :D
Isen = Overcurrent mod ?
Quote:
Originally posted by sai
So what fixed resistors are needed 2.7k ?? Please pics now, I wanna do this today. :D
Isen = Overcurrent mod ?
I-sense like V-sense ;)
Yep. Overcurrent indeed. :D
@Portugal
Did you use 3 fixed resistors with 2,7k? All are the same? And each going to its appropriate mosfet??? Pics would rock. Post them when you're ready ;)
Thanks in advance :thumbsup:
Right if its a case of replacing the resistors them im gonna grab a few and try it out ASAP.
Portugal you are the only one to try the mod so far and you seem to have success. I see you are using 2.7k resistors. My resistors values are 2.17, 2.2 and 2.2 respectively.
If 2.7 does the trick I will grab some, ill probably grab some of a slightly higher rating just incase someone gets better results with a rating say above 3.0 ohms.
mong
-EDIT-
This is the info I found at my local electronics store, would these be ok
So I will be picking up three 2k7, three 3k and three 3k3 resistors.Quote:
A ‘Universal Resistor’ with a superb specification. It may be used as a superior replacement wherever carbon film ¼ W, 1/3W or ½ W are specified since its size is the same as ¼ W types, yet it can be run continuously at 0.6W with ambient temperatures up to 70°C, thanks to the highly even thermal characteristics of the ceramic substrate. It is also a superior replacement to most metal oxide and thick film resistors due to its very tight tolerance, ±1%, and its low temperature coefficient, only 50ppm. Working voltage max: 250V Tolerance: ±1% Power rating: 0·6W at 70°C Temperature coefficient: 50ppm/°C Noise level: Typically 0.01µV/V Dimensions of body: 6·5mm long, 2·5mm diameter Note that to make up ‘odd’ values not stocked, resistor networks may be built and if all the resistors in the network have a 1% tolerance, then the tolerance of the whole network will still be 1% tolerance.
Someone please correct me if this info is wrong
3.0k or 3.3k its better at 10x250mhz(2.1vcore) pc reboots(with 2.7k) on prime
y
Ive edited my message above.
Could someone please verify the info for me.
I measured the first abd second one and they were the same as when unsoldered, is it safe to assume the third one will be the same?
Getting ready to go to the shop right now!!
Just noticed all the freaks are in here myself included
;)
Need verification please, please
,
Are you gonna unsolder the resistors from the board to replace them or do you solder to the vreg/mosfets?
I think the onboard resistors are all the same (the 3) - according to their tolerances :)
Thank you for that Vlad,
With the new information provided by Portugal I will now buy three 3k, three 3k3, three 3k6, three 3k9, three 4k3 and three 4k7 resistors.
Hopefully by the time i get back there will be some new information on the optimum value for the resistance needed.
Thank you so much
:toast:
mong off shopping.
-EDIT-
SAE im gonna remove the resistors which are onboard and replace with the ones im gonna buy. Darn i forgot sommet, I have heatsink placed on the mosfets, I hope the resistors i buy will be very small. I want to solder in the same place but if they are too big I wont be able to because i need the heatsinks on the mosfets
Yes.Quote:
Originally posted by mongoled
-EDIT-
SAE im gonna remove the resistors which are onboard and replace with the ones im gonna buy. Darn i forgot sommet, I have heatsink placed on the mosfets, I hope the resistors i buy will be very small. I want to solder in the same place but if they are too big I wont be able to because i need the heatsinks on the mosfets
I already wanted to ask if you ll buy smd resistors ;)
Sould be very compact ones. Hope these are easy to solder :thumbsup:
Unfortunately the picture on the website of the resistors didnt show smd ones. Im hoping there will be some at the shop when i go.
Just gonna right the product codes be4 i go
Hey Portugal :)
You have to attach the pic to the message. It did not work the way you did :(
So have anybody checked if this values compare to the Abit NF7 ? Because it should be the same mod but probably with different Values of the resistors.
No. Not exactly. Cause we are trying to figure out the mod for LP B/Infinity ;)
Linky dead ? :(
Copy the link and paste in browser.
U cant direct link from yahoo.
I hosted the pic so u can directly see it:
http://home.kabelfoon.nl/~vnrswk/1.jpg
Hm I think I'll better wait a bit and see how this thread here developes. :rolleyes:
Hm could someone please take a look at my last post.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...753#post393753
I do hope there are some peeps arnd tonite
I have done the mod using 3.9kohm resistors. Ive have booted up fine. I decided to use my palomino just incase damage was done to the processor.
Now the information I would like to konw is, what would the effects of this mod be in the state and safety of the processor in the mthbrd.
For example should i be worried abt doing certain tasks like priming, benching etc. What would happen if this mod wasnt safe etc etc.
Seeing no noe has done this be4 with the resistor i am using could someone theretcially explain the dangers.
thanxs
mongoled
n
Thanks for that Vlad, free lesson in electronics.. ;)
Any success to report, mong? :D
I have some bad news guys,
Any results that I was gonna share with you are now no longer. During the process of removing/replacing the motherbord over the last few days and having to remove my waterblocks and put them back on I had an accident.
The mods seemed to be working, I had not got round to fully testing stability because with the mobo on my workbench all i could use on my CPU was a crappy aluminium heatsink. There was no way I was gonna put 2volts through my barton on that thing.
So i had to install the mthbrs back into the case and reattach all the water blocks. Having done that I booted up and all seemed to be fine. I had some things to do and left my PC on. L8er when I came back I was greeted with a blank screen.
I tried to reboot it, but it wouldnt do anything, so I took a closer look at the components when i noticed that something bad had happened. Some how from all the moving abt I had sprung a leak, yup water had caused several pieces of hardware to short out. There were charcoled components, it looked like I had lost
the mthbrd, my gfx card, the relay, maybe the processor and ram.
:(
I took everythin apart and started to examine the parts closely, the AGP slot on the mthbrd had dry green powder inside the slot (those of you who have seen this be4 will now what i am on abt).
The PCI slot below the AGP slot was burned in one corner to the extent that I could put a whole through the plastic, the 9800 had one of the traces which goes into the AGP slot burned from the short.
Need I go on, everything looked bleak. I looked to see what i could save. First was to clean up the mthbrd and see if it was working at all. I cleaned as much of the charcoal and green dust as well as i could out of the AGP and PCI slot and around the motherboard. The scorched plastic PCI slot was tidyed up, this is when i noticed the hole which had formed in the plastic. I was happy with my 'cleaning' result and went ahead with a geforce mx and tried to boot. To my suprise it booted! Yipee (my hapiness was to be shotlived more of this l8r).
One down two to go, so far the mthbrd was working, my barton was working and the RAM was working. Now for the 9800, i cleaned up all the green dust which had accumatlated from where it had been pluged into the APG slot and cleaned up the charcoled traces. Fortunately only one of the traces was burned out. I decided to bridge the trace with a small piece of wire and solder.
I threw the gfx card into the mthbrd and tried to boot, success the 9800 was working I coudnt believe my luck, 2pieces of scorhed hardware which i had manged to ressurect from the dead. Last thing left was the relay. This had a corner burned, the corner which was in the PCi slot which had turned to charcoal. the slot which goes into the PCI needed cleaning and the corner needed to be remade. I used superglue to slowly mould a new corner, and repositioned the trace which once used to be there back onto its spot. Being a perfectionist I developed a new pin for the PCI slot (2 of the pins had burned to dust!!!) and believe it or not i manged to get it functional. So everything was working. Wow it was hardwork, but worth it, until the inevitable happened.
Everything was going very nicely, I was talking with my housemate and had just started to tidy up my case. I rebooted the computer but had forgot to plug in my sata drive so I turned it back off. That was the last time my Infinty ever booted
:( :(
For whatever reason It just died, now what I dont know is the following, did it die because of the short circuiting which had happened previously or did it die because of the voltage modifications. We will never know. L8r today I will contact the shop i bought the Infinity from and explain to them abt the
leakge. They are good people there so I am hoping they will be symaphetic and let me RMA my motherboard. If not I will have to bite the bullet and just buy a new one.
Hopefully by then U guys will have fully established the right values for the resistors in the mod. I dont regret for a second what has happened, you have to learn some way, I learned the hard way. I will now know that moving my waterblocks can turn a leak free water cooling solution into a bad accident, oh well.
I will post some pics l8r on of the hardware and my attempts to rectify the damaged pieces. Its now 4:30am here in the UK, I am mentally and physically exausted, but i cannot sleep yet. I need to get a computer ready for my housemate who needs a rendering machine for his degree project which he hands in on wednesday. This is what im typing on at the moment. Need to finish instalation of the software then i can go to bed.
Goodluck to the rest of you doing these mods, I hope you have a better day than the one i just had.
Thanxs for your efforts guys, especially to you Vlad your da man
:toast:
mongoled out
Let us pause for a moment of xtreme silent meditation for our dear departed.
Better luck on the next one mongoled :toast: Another member of the DFI Destruction Dudes ;)
Our condolences mongoled. Always sad when good hardware goes up in magic blue smoke. I think its a just a wee bit past being able to RMA, btw. :(
o
Thanxs for the messages guys,
sjohnson,
Maybe we should sort a special avatar/sig out for us guys to distinguish us from the normal modders
;)
Any ideas peeps please chime in.
DarKcyde,
Your prob right abt the RMA, I have PM the store owner and explained the circumstances, like i said be4 the are pretty cool their, the best customer service I have EVER seen!
Vlad Draculea,
I cleaned up the motherboard first using a solution compiled of cellulose thinners, it evaporates almost instantly and cleaned everything up nicely. A bit more detail on the mthbrd which may give a clue of cause of death. When trying to pwr up the mobo using both the 4 pin connector and the regular connector, on pressing the power switch there is activity for a fraction of a second (prob a thousandth! of a sec). If i unplug the 4 pin connector then the mobo powers up but doesnt boot (mthbrd fans sockets dont work)
I tried a diff power supply just to check that mine wasnt damaged but the PSU is fine.
So if i understand correctly from your calculations using 3.9kohm resistors will give a current of 90 amps?
mong
Oh. My condolences with you on your dead board :(
Apparently there seems to be an increased number of DFI deaths around :mad: in whatever circumstances... once it works (happiness), next time you're sure it works it's disappointing you :(
I today got a message from a friend (bought my LP and two infinities from him - he is forming a shoplike firm ;) ) he gets my last dead infinity replaced too... I was hoping for the money though... so I am gonna have two new infinities and one new LP B soon ;) But for rmaing infinities it takes DFI quite a long time :rolleyes: My friend says, LP is the prestige object of DFI, the infinity only the budget variant... so guess what. Right. The LP is being rmaed very fast, the infinity I am waiting for is still has not been rmaed for over three weeks now :rolleyes:
Hope you get an immediate replacement, mong :thumbsup:
q
mongoled have you try remove the batery and put the reset jumper in posicion reset about 30minutes?
Just a thought here....
I'm getting a new DFI from RMA...hopefuly. Anyways, to take care of the fluctuations, I've been thinking in doing the same as hipro did to the IC7. Soldering an additional choke and capacitors on the bottom of the board. Maybe this could be a safer approach.
Might sound a little dumb, but...
What 's a choke :confused: ?
A choke is one of those (typically) donut-shaped things with the copper wire wound around it.
Provides reactance to a circuit. Often used to filter "noise" out of a circuit via reactance and I'm sure something else (but d'oh, I don't know what).
u
Oh well, Ima try the caps and see how it goes. But it may take till next week for me to do it and have a feedback for you guys.
Thanks sjohnson for explanation :)Quote:
Originally posted by sjohnson
A choke is one of those (typically) donut-shaped things with the copper wire wound around it.
Provides reactance to a circuit. Often used to filter "noise" out of a circuit via reactance and I'm sure something else (but d'oh, I don't know what).
@others:
Already tried the caps-adding with several nf7-s' 2.0 and it never gained me anything :( (used original caps from nf7)
Seems it had sth to do with overcurrent as well, drawn ampage or not-drawn ampage ;)
I hope I don't end up modding my new board all-over... :rolleyes:
Please, guys, find out what mod is the most beneficial for vdimm/vcore/vdd stability at high clocks ;) :D
That's what I wanna do tomorrow or when lp b arrives. RMA was done on one day - replaced the board... gls should ship it today to me :thumbsup:
guess i am jumping out of the circuit here. Newegg is outta Infinity, so I got a refund. Think I'll just get a 2.4C and keep on going with my IC7 projects. :)
i
Well here are the pics I promised.
Infinity....RIP
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dresuk03/Burned_PCI.jpg
9800....Long live (touch wood)
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dresuk03/Burned_9800.jpg
Relay...
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dresuk0..._relay6%5d.jpg
and finally the successful mod....
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dresuk0...-droop-mod.jpg
mong
hy
i discover a very strange thing about nforce 2 whith more temperature on chipset it runs stable at 250fsb with less temp not stable,i test with other board(epox 8rda3+) and as the same problem,wath conclusion?chipset nforce 2 like temperatures?
please if possible can someone make de test?
i test it with a window open,after with the wiondow open but chipset covered to improve temperature.
Well, that would make sense on why my board doesnt run above 220 very easily.. huge copper heatsink, lapped nb, etc...
Would also answer why the one guy who burned the nb on his NF7 got better results after that.. I forget who that was, though.
Maybe i'll take my nb cooler OFF and let the sucker burn a bit ;)
The mod 's looking nice mong but the board :rolleyes: ;)
I got my LP B from rma today, and hey it's a taiwan one :D
I don't want to kill this board so I 'll wait for an infinity to come here (one of the two) and maybe mod this...
I afraid, you know? :(
I still have not got my antec tc 550 back from rma... all that rmaing sucks :mad:
P.S. I wanted to test the vdd mod with the board out so that I am able to measure the vdd mosfet (before sticking coolers on it)...
did anyone realize the voltage staying the same with 52k, 65k and 80k??? Weirdo :confused: always 1,95V...
R U sure you've got the right measuring point?Quote:
Originally posted by SAE
The mod 's looking nice mong but the board :rolleyes: ;)
I got my LP B from rma today, and hey it's a taiwan one :D
I don't want to kill this board so I 'll wait for an infinity to come here (one of the two) and maybe mod this...
I afraid, you know? :(
I still have not got my antec tc 550 back from rma... all that rmaing sucks :mad:
P.S. I wanted to test the vdd mod with the board out so that I am able to measure the vdd mosfet (before sticking coolers on it)...
did anyone realize the voltage staying the same with 52k, 65k and 80k??? Weirdo :confused: always 1,95V...
Always the same voltage seems kinda weird, doesn't it?:rolleyes:
I've used the same point as the NF7-S. (that soldering patch, where a mosfet could've been, upper leg.)
I know how you feel SAE,
Come on guys, we need some more volunteers to test the mods!! Anyone fancy PM Holst to ask him to take a look at Vlad's mods.
Vlad I dont doubt your work, but is always best to get a second opinion.
Come on peeps, get the soldering iron out and test the mod!!
mong
Hmm. I am not exactly that dumb I cannot recognize the measuring point... :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally posted by DivineEvil
R U sure you've got the right measuring point?
Always the same voltage seems kinda weird, doesn't it?:rolleyes:
I've used the same point as the NF7-S. (that soldering patch, where a mosfet could've been, upper leg.)
I now have been using the dfi design (3 infinity, now LP B) since late november. I know where to measure. It's by far the hottest mosfet on the board... it's the leg pointing south of the board.
The same point as NF7-S? That sounds a little weird though since both boards use a very different layout :confused:
What board are you referring to?
@mong
Thanks :D
Today got my LP B, and it's a taiwan one :thumbsup: (RMA lasting one day... they got it and exchanged it same day, yesterday).
Yipiiiee... (knock on wood it works... ;) )
Still have not had time to test it thouroughly ;)
I know u're not stupid or anything. :toast:
i've double checked my DFI and you're right.
I've used the upper soldering pad directly under the cap that's most left, under the AGPslot. (marked EC44)
(edit: oops it's most-RIGHT)
not 100% sure about the "upper part" but that's the location i used.
It's "kinda" the same location as the NF7-S ;)
sorry 'bout that.:rolleyes:
Never mind ;)Quote:
Originally posted by DivineEvil
I know u're not stupid or anything. :toast:
i've double checked my DFI and you're right.
I've used the upper soldering pad directly under the cap that's most left, under the AGPslot. (marked EC44)
(edit: oops it's most-RIGHT)
not 100% sure about the "upper part" but that's the location i used.
It's "kinda" the same location as the NF7-S ;)
sorry 'bout that.:rolleyes:
Hm well my LP B also died, for no reason. I really don't know how this happened. First it got unstable, then reboots after about 5 mins and then .. nothing anymore. No bootup!
so desoldering mods and RMA :rolleyes:
Now I'm waiting for my new DFI..
EDIT:
I had a Beta BIOS on it, willt this be a problem when RMAing ?
On the telephone some employee said: "You'll get a new one, but we'll check if you did some BIOS update or something."
But where's the sense when checking afterwards ??
e
Did you guys remove the resistors and replace them with ones that were 3.3k or did you leave them in place? Vlad Draculea can you post pics?
Sorry to hear your brd died Sai, i think DFI are getting strict on brds flashed on beta bios. I hope they dont mess u abt with RMA due to this.
Good to see you did the mod Vlad, I have my new Infinity here and it is alot worse than my old one :(
With my mobile barton i can run 2.6 ghz with 1.8volts prime stable but as soon as I start going over 1.85 and push up the mhz Im getting the reboots and instabilty whilst running prime.
Also 3dmark01 is alot worse now, I cant run a test at 237x11 (2607mhz) without being kicked to desktop.
I have a few questions abt the mod, with the Vdrop mod, how do we know if it is doing what it has been put in place for. We have to ue a 50K pot and make sure not to put zero resistance, but how can we tell when we need to stop turning the pot, is their something we have to look out for??
iceman2g, yeah I removed the resistors, if u go and re-read the instructions Vlad has posted he says you remove the three isen resistors.
mongoled
Anyone rmaed a board with beta bios on it ?Quote:
Originally posted by mongoled
Sorry to hear your brd died Sai, i think DFI are getting strict on brds flashed on beta bios. I hope they dont mess u abt with RMA due to this.
r
e
Well i got the mods in place on my new board, I couldnt hold of any longer waiting for other peeps to try this out!!
Things are looking good so far...touch wood.
Vlad, I need some more advice from you, Ive noticed that even though i have gained alot of stability i still find my voltages are jumping all over the place.
How do i need to use the vdrop mod to control this. Do i need to be increasing the resistance on the pot or decreasing it? The vdrop pot is set to 30k at the moment.
Also I am overvolting in windows :) even though my vcore and vsense pot are set at 50k, i havnt even touched those yet, too scared
;)
So to sum it up this is what i have, three 3.9kohm resistors replacing the three smd resistors on the mthbrd, vcore and vsense mod inplace and vdrop mod set at 30kohm.
mong
-EDIT-
doh, i better mention what i have got out of this so far
:)
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/dresuk0...z-super_pi.jpg
prime95 stable at 235x11.5 = 2708 @ 1.85volts (bios). Gonna let the mobo and cpu settle in at these settings for a few days, oh and most importantly (at least for me anyways) i have all fans set at 5volts = nice quiet very fast PC
:) :)
n
When u say 'decrease the drop pot' do u mean decrease the resistance, the ohms? Say from 30k to 20k (the value here isnt relevant)?
mong
g
Thanxs for the advice Vlad,
Im a bit perplexed at the momnet abt a problem im having. I would say that the setting sin my sig are stable. I have had prime running for a couple of hrs ,which i stopped and have just finished rendering a scene for a friend. The render has been for the last 16hrs, not one crash, so i think it safe to say that the PC is stable, but....
I keep losing the onboard lan, their are a few things I have in mind, so i will run it by u guys. First of all, the operating system i have installed is the same one i had with my last Infinity. I did a straight swap, what chance of this causing the LAn instability? Ive tried upping/lowering voltages it dosent help. Ive got the southbridged sinked with the nthbrd sink and all other hotspots sinked so i dont think heat is my enemy.
The ram has been tried and tested above 235mhz easy.
One thing which i have noticed is when the lan goes it will freeze the PC for a few seconds. Has anybody got any ideas on what is causing this.
Ive just installed a diff lan driver to see if that helps. Ive also tried threee bios so far with same problem 131, 121, and da alpha b02.
mong
Do use a pci nic ;)
It works... the onboard one sucks at high fsbs...
You found 3,9Kohm to be best? I don't know if I should risk losing my lp b?!?! ... it's very good cause I never could do memtest_windows errorfree longer than up to 13% in dual channel at any voltage/vdd/settings... now I can do it without errors over 2hours (quit test then) ... and I am very pleased...
It's undervolting badly though, but I was able to complete a superpi 32m at 258x11 fastest settings with 2-17 b02... but that was using 1,7V vdd and with 1,9V it errors on me quite quickly :confused: 3d action needs more vdd though :( That's weirdo. ;)
Erm... wanna try this too...
Sorted three smd resistors out (from dead nf7-s' ;) ) having a resistance of about 4,18kohm...
Would this be safe?
I hope so. I wanna replace the onboard ones with these without having to mess with cutting my sinks ;) SMD resistors are a lil harder to solder but I hope it works (often soldered smd resistors with all kinds of mods).
And would it be possible to start off with a 10k pot for vdrop???
Help please, cause I want to do this today :D
Hey SAE I here your call,
:)
First of all i didnt experiment, I just used 3.9kohm resistors. I think it would be ok to use the resistors you have, just read how Vlad explained the calculations he made.
Another thing I noticed is that just by using 3.9kohm resistors the vcore voltage on my mthbrd increased. I had all the other pots in place but they were all still set at 50kohms when i noticed the overvolting.
As for the LAN I think ive figured it out. I wouldnt say 235mhz on the fsb is high ;) not enuff for me to be losing my LAN. The only thing i did which seems to have made a difference is to take off the nthbrd heatsink from the southbridge and replace it but instead this time with thermal paste rather that thermal pad.
I havnt tested it enuff, but it has been stable all day today. Talking abt stable, my computer rebooted abt 20 minutes ago for no apparent reason
:(
I wasnt doing anything stressful just browsing the net. Its strange I had the PC rendering for 16hrs non stop with settings in sig, some gaming sessions AND some prime95 sessions and never crashed. Oh well ill never now what caused the crash
Id say a 10k pot would be good, I have my 50k pot turned 25 full round clockwise (30 turns takes it to 0 ohms) and my mobo is still alive...touch wood....
Strange thing is I havnt seen a drop in my vcore by doing this, something which Vlad said would happen. Maybe i need to turn my vdrop pot lower still??
Anyway hope this helps, come on I think u must have done the mod by now even without anyones advice, I know i couldnt wait myself
;)
Gluck
mong
Did the mod as you wrote ... before any answer given ;)
Only had three 4,66-4,68kohm smd resistors and used them...
But I was not give the opportunity to test for stability :(
Was in bios and already that was a torture to wait for... the prom lowered the temps so slowly that it lasted over 10minutes. In bios temps rose this quick I had to immediately shut down the rig :(
I think - cause it often had hiccoughs lately - my prom is leaking :mad:
Not enough refridgerant to cool the sucker down...
Gonna ask for help in the refridgeration forums... thanks for ya help anyway and good luck with ya rig :thumbsup:
I will follow the thread though ;)