Project Rubik's (It's a cube geddit ?)

So I thought I would kick of a thread for my new build as I did the first part last night (photos to follow tonight).


PICTURE OF THE DAY (Updated 28/6/2007)

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...serialNumber=1

This is a completely new build featuring all new components. I am going 680i SLI on this. So to start with a parts list. I will update this as stuff arrives. As you can see its a dual loop Iwaki powered system.

The case and pumps are on way. Various bits of the cooling have arrived. None of the components ordered as was waiting on the R600 release.

edit: All parts ordered: Bank balance lighter!


Computer components


Motherboard - Evga 680i (quad revision)
Processor - Intel QX6800 2.93GHz
PSU - Enermax Galaxy 1000W
Memory - 4Gb OCZ DDR2 PC2-9200 FlexXLC Edition Dual
Graphics - 2 x EVGA GeForce 8800 GTX KO ACS3 SILENT 768MB GDDR3
System Hard Drives - 2 x Western Digital 150 Gb WD1500AHFD Raptor X
Media Hard Drive - 750 GB Seagate edit: Now Raid 1 1TB Hitachi's
DVDRom - SamsungSH-183LBEBN 18x18 DVD?RW Dual Layer Serial ATA Lightscribe ReWriter (Black) - OEM
Sound - Sound Blaster -X-Fi Extreme Gamer Or Xonar
OS - Microsoft - Vista Ultimate 64 bit

Custom Case

Case -Mountain Mods "Horizon - diamond top. Cardinal Powder Coat - C241-BL210 Blue Fine Texture Semi-Gloss"

Water Cooling System

CPU Cooler -Swiftech -Apogee GTX Waterblock
NB/SB/Mosfet Coolers - Swiftech MCW30
GPU Blocks EK or Swiftech - Stealth or FC8800 8800GTX
Radiator 1 - Thermochill PA120.3
Radiator 2 - Thermochill PA120.2
Main Pumps - 2 x Iwaki RD-30
120mm Fans Loons 120mm blue led
80 mm Fans Sharkoon 80mm Sharkoon LED 2000 "Golf Ball"
Reservoir - 2 x EK 200mm Res
Reservoir Accessories 1 Alphacool Alphacool Plexi G1/4" Lighting Module Blue
Tubing 1 Tygon 7/16" ID (5/8" OD) R-3603 Laboratory-Grade
Tubing 2 Tygon Clear 1/4" Tubing
Connectors 1 Swiftech F-Fitting (1/2" Body to 1/4" Branch)
(Pack of 2)
Connectors 2 Petras 1/2" OD Y-Fitting (for 1/2" and 7/16" ID Tubing)
Connectors 2 Petras 1/2" OD T-Fitting (for 1/2" and 7/16" ID Tubing)
Smartcoils Swiftech SmartCoils 625 (for 5/8" OD Tubing) - UV
TIM cleaner Articlean Thermal Material & Surface Purifier - 60ml
TIM Arctic Silver Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - 12 gram tube
Coolant Water Deionised Water
Bio Killer Petras Petra'sTech "PT_Nuke" Concentrated Biocide (10mL)
Clips Generic Plastic G Clamps
Drain Ports Danger Dan Danger Den Delrin FillPort
Water Die Watercooling UK UV Reactive Water Dye 10ml (Dark Blue)
Fan Controller 1 BigNG
Fan Controller 2 MiniNG
Fan Controller 3 Water temp sensor
Fan Controller 4 Extra Sensors
PT Gel Watercooling UK PT Gel-Stuff Vibration Absorption Block


Modding

Mounts Scythe Scythe "Anti-Vibration HDD Stabilizer 2" for 3.5" HDD
Light Aqua PC Blue 12" Dual Cathodes
Cables Aqua PC Revoltec UV Reactive SATA Cable - Blue 50cm
Cable Ties Watercooling UK Cable Ties 10 Pack (UV Blue)

Pictures of radiator fan assembly tonight. Interestingly all 3 fans start with a little 9 volt battery !

Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jabski

nice selection. Looking forward to your build

---

:with:

yeah keep us posted...

Just a quick question... why buy the 8800 GTX KO ACS3 over another 8800GTX when your only going to be ripping off the heatsink and putting a waterblock on it anyway? Other than that looks like a great build, watercooling equipment is kick-ass,I assume this will be a dual loop set-up?

I thought it was pre-overclocked special binned ? If not then you are quite correct I don't need it although to be fair the difference in cost is small and it might effect resale value ?

Ta
Chris

They're factory binned/stress tested.

As promissed a few photos .....

the initial fan view

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=144

after a little wiring and a small battery

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=151


.... still trying to find somewhere to buy OC'ed 8800GTX's from in the UK.

Chris

How did u get those 3 fans to combine into one? Pictures plz. Awesome build.

A soldering iron and some solder.

looking good :)

ok continue pls with more pics...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ranker

A soldering iron and some solder.

---

yep, heat and molten metal - AND insulation tape

Eeek - no insulation tape but otherwise correct. Only fed through one of the yellow wires also. More tonight.

Chris:)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

Eeek - no insulation tape but otherwise correct. Only fed through one of the yellow wires also. More tonight.

Chris:)

---

as long as none of the opposite polarity wires touch you will be fine - if they do....wellllllll:eek:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GeoffP

as long as none of the opposite polarity wires touch you will be fine - if they do....wellllllll:eek:

---

Geoff what do you take me for :) :) :) its all heatshrinked (per wire and the whole) and then sleeved.

I used to build particle accelerators for a living I know all about not letting the wires touch :D But seriously, I'm sure its all total overkill but what else are we here for !!


Chris

Question: There are QX6800s available for sale in the UK ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

seriously, I'm sure its all total overkill but what else are we here for !!


Chris

---

Chris,

The act of watercooling itself is already total overkill. Try explaining watercooling to your homeowners' insurance company lol :)

Yes the QX6800's are here in the UK.

So what could this be that was sat in the hall when I got home from work ?

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=153



All I can say is WOOT WOOT WOOT:toast: :toast:

Chris

A few more piccies ...

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=155


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=157


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=159


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=161


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=163


An I have just spent a rediculous ammount on the internet tonight buying all the rest of the bits. Expect it will trickle in over the next few days.

Chris

:) :) :)

great design, custom color is nice

Very nice. I like the colour you have chosen.

wow thats a beauty. cant wait!

My god!
It's not black :eek:
Is that allowed?

ah lolz...

blue gray/royal blue... maybe mod paint optical drives and fans controllers to match...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by IanY

Question: There are QX6800s available for sale in the UK ?

---

here

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by septim

ah lolz...

blue gray/royal blue... maybe mod paint optical drives and fans controllers to match...

---

i saw a thread yesterday where they modded a fan controller to match
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=138840&page=2
post 32 and onwards :)

The fan controller idea is nice but I have gone with the big ng so its internal. Gonna stealth the cdrom for sure though.

As for the colour I really like it - very slightly darker than the pics suggest - the camera flash keeps lightening it up.

Gonna need some advice on drilling this fellow for the delrin ports.

Also just noticed I didn't order the 8800 coolers - am waiting for the new swiftech part - the storm.

Expect most parts to be in by Tuesday next week expect big ng which is out of stock till 22nd.

Chris

Oh and forgot to say nothing custom about the case - basic horizon - wish I had known about custom for the pa 130.2 holes on the back but there you go.

Chris

what do you mean delrin ports ?? Fill ports ??

Oh the danger den fill ports (delrin variety). I have dual loops so each loop has 1 fill port on top and one at the bottom to drain. That means 4 holes to drill in the case roughly 1 inch diameter. I am guessing an appropriate hole saw.

Alternatively I have a dremmel with hole cutter too.

Chris

ok the fill ports are easy. You just need a drill and a 24mm hole saw. Also danger den have a video to help
http://www.dangerden.com/index.php?o...d=19&Itemid=42

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by jabski

ok the fill ports are easy. You just need a drill and a 24mm hole saw. Also danger den have a video to help
http://www.dangerden.com/index.php?o...d=19&Itemid=42

---

Perfect !!

Ta
Chris

nice looking project you have going on in here.. is it just me or are there more and more cube case projects popping up now a days. ;)
phcjpp keep the pics coming

This is almost as Xtreme as IanY's setup, I'm looking forward to see it ;)

If I add its driving 3 19" monitors via a Matrox Triple Head to go (digital) does that get me in front :party:


Only kidding (about the in front bit not the monitors - those are real and mounted on one of those nice triple stands).

Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

If I add its driving 3 19" monitors via a Matrox Triple Head to go (digital) does that get me in front :party:


Only kidding (about the in front bit not the monitors - those are real and mounted on one of those nice triple stands).

Chris

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:P Oh IanY has MUCH MUCH more :) Well good luck, that computer might be a bit noisy though, a lot of fans...

Ha ha .... I had 3 of the fans running the other day they are silent - check out the threads on the Yate loon 120mm's that are floating about. Got these ones from Petra's (Nice service btw)


Chris

Ok so someone has asked to explain a little more how I did the fans so here goes. The basic idea is to splice the 3 fan cables together and then extend using extra wire. You don't splice all 3 yellow wires though - cut 2 back and just pick one to extend. The final stage (not yet done) is to add a new fan plug onto the extended wire (or I guess splice the old end on). Anyway here goes....

Tools you will need. Pliers, wire stripper, spare fan wire (red, yellow, black - I use 24 guage), soldering iron and solder, lighter or heater attachment if you have a gas soldering iron.

Firstly place your fans on the rad to get an idea of positioning. Here is the 3 fan version with the fans lying on the rad.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=144

Next cut the original fan wiring to size using pliers so all the wires meet at one side of the rad. I am afraid this picture is a litle further down the road but you get the idea.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=175


Next we are gonna sleeve each individual fan wire before splicing them together. You need sleeving and heatshrink for this part available from most electronics stores. I always keep a variety of sleeving around - this the the 5mm variety from RS components (http://rswww.com/) in the uk (part 389-886). A really good selection of heat shrink can be found here in this rs part (394-8321). I also use this RS gas soldering iron 604-012 which comes with a nice blow torch attachment for the heat shrink.

Cut the sleeving shorter than the wires and cut off a bit of appropriate diameter heat shrink for both ends. When you cut the sleeving it is advisable to very slightly melt the ends to stop them fraying. Again a lighter or gas blow torch does well here.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=171


Next heat the heatshrink to tidy up the sleeving ends. This picture shows the far end but its the same at both ends.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=173


Repeat this process for all the fans - you will need varying lenghts of sleeving of course. This photo shows the ends being brought together on the 2 fan version but it is no different on the 3 fan version.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=175


Next twist together the red wires, the black wires and cut back all but one of the yellow wires. You can 'tin' your twisted together wires at this point to stop them untwisting. See this good web solder guide on how to 'tin' a wire if you don't already know - its easy. I also put a very small piece of heatshrink over the twisted wires to provide extra strength - you can just about see it in the photo on the red wires. Again shrink with a lighter.

This next bit is probably the most tricky. You have to extend the wires. Cut 3 lengths of res, yellow and black wire (I got mine from maplin in the UK - think thats Radio Shack in the US) to about 50cm say. Twist and tin each end. At this point its good if you have one of those tools - I think its called a 'Helping Hands' to hold one or both of the wires for you as you need 2 hands to solder! Here is a photo of it in action.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=177


Essentially place the 2 wires you are extending to they touch lengthways as in the photo then tin again. This will be enough to join them and you not it doesn't make the wire any wider meaning sleeving and heatshrink will fit over easily. Again see the guide. Once the wires are joined repeat the initial steps for sleeving the extended cable - you will need a long bit of sleeving which can be a pain to get over the wires but take your time and you will manage it. Tidy up the 'join' end with a little heat shrink.

Now finally you need to tidy up the join area. This is a little different for the 2 and 3 fan versions as the join is wider in the 3 fan case.

This is the 2 fan version. You can see I just pushed a wider diameter peice of heatshrink over the assemby and used it to diy up the join.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=179


In the 3 fan case I used a wider peice of sleeving with heatshrink at one end to do the same job. I think it depends what you have around really.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=167


Thats about it really - haven't included putting the fan plug back on yet as I need to cut everything to size first. Here are some photos though of the assemblies.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=169


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=165


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=181


More later ....

Chris

very tidy looking cables :)

Post 37 now updated to include guide to doing the fans :) :) :) .

Chris

Nice to see someone lay rad fan wiring out in pics.
I often add a pull tie under the heat shrink on each side to add a little strength to the joints.
Don't know if it does much but re-assure me. lol

Tried doing each solder join with liquid insulating tape?
I'm intending using it on the inside in the future as it's fast drying an gives less bulge.
I'll continue with heat-shrink on the outer, of course.

hmm very cool helpin hands, usefull. nice sleeving too.

Coming along nicely.

Great guide for the fans.

For the love of god, I still can't find those "Helping Hands" anywhere. I've only found alligator clamps and spring clamps but nothing that looks as useful as what you have.

Thats one sexy cable job, i like it alot i may do something similar :)

Helping Hands ....

Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

Geoff what do you take me for :) :) :) its all heatshrinked (per wire and the whole) and then sleeved.

I used to build particle accelerators for a living I know all about not letting the wires touch :D But seriously, I'm sure its all total overkill but what else are we here for !!


Chris

---

:p: :p: :p: hehe M2CW :p: :p: :p:

BTW - those helping hands are fantastic - going to pick them up in OZ for about AU$14. Great for finicky stuff -- never thought of looking for something like that :cool:

Whoa that's pretty neat for wires...I just lay stuff on a block of wood and hope it doesn't move...:( Masking tape holds small things down nicely but its a little wasteful.

Utter pron !

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=183



Chris

damn... dual rd-30s everywhere you look ...

very nice toys collection sir :up:

hell i'm getting a bit jealous looking at your stuff. like hoax already said dual rd-30s sure do look nice.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

Utter pron !

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9921.JPG


Chris

---

Holy $hit nice toys!

You are going to have one helluva setup....

$hitload of $$$$$$$$$$pent:clap: :clap: :clap:

phcjpp,

Hey Chris, get three Samsung 305Ts!! Those will put your triple head to good use :)

http://www.behardware.com/articles/6...d-samsung.html

And serialk11r,

Stop spreading rumours about me :)

i'm gonna cry

really very nice collection u got there

Almost there, almost there ..... still missing 2 Swiftech storm vga coolers and the power supply for the pumps. Fairly important bits unfortunatley. I guess I could start by building it without watercooling to get an idea of the layout and add the cooling when it all arrives. Only small issue is the QX6800 comes solo - that is no cooler.

Other options are to start doing the drive stealthing.

Chris

Buy the swiftech stealth ! Use the stock vga coolers for now.

Yeh - I might be able to get a cheap cpu cooler from maplin on the way home. At least I could get it to boot then :)

Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

Almost there, almost there ..... still missing 2 Swiftech storm vga coolers and the power supply for the pumps. Fairly important bits unfortunatley. I guess I could start by building it without watercooling to get an idea of the layout and add the cooling when it all arrives. Only small issue is the QX6800 comes solo - that is no cooler.

---

never heard about those before

maybe u mean the normal mcw-30 ? or u meant cpu coolers ?

Nope - they are out this week - seriously cool looking too.

http://www.swiftech.com/assets/image.../stealth-1.jpg

Chris

Chris,

Just a suggestion. Keep a Zalman 9500 or 9700 handy at home. It adapts extremely easily to all sockets. Always good to have a heatsink at home. If your are so inclined, the Zalman VF video coolers are exactly the same. Just screw on and go. I can revert to air cooling very easily.

nice stuff you got there.
will look for more pics of this.

iany good advice on that, i also have reserve tuniqT lying around somewhere...

So tonight was spent with a DVD rewriter (Actually 2 of them). The idea behind this work is that the DVD is gonna be stealthed behind a HDD cover (more on that later with the trusty dremmel!). The only issue with stealthing is how you then open the drive and also the drive activity light is usually hidden by stealthing. So .....................

I found the Bulgin LED switch is the perfect way to solve these problems. Here it is at Kustom PC's but they are available all over the place - roughly 20$ each.

http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/1998.gif

So in this mod I will be soldering 4 wires directly to the DVD circuit board and then bring them out to attach to the Bulgin LED and switch. I will be doing this on 2 drives but on ly one tonight!

So to start with the basic drive

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=185

Here we see the fronts off (just slip off the side tabs). Remember you have to use a paper clip to open the drive draw before the front will come off.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=187

Here we see the LED circuit board with wires attached but the LED not yet removed - just solder it off as you cannot power 2 LED's - one has to go.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=191

Board back in with no LED.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=193

Finally the switch wires attached (you don't need to remove the original switch) and attached to the new switch for testing - don't get the LED pins round the wrong way - use a multimeter to test when led on if its not marked on the DVD circuit board.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=195

Tidying up those wires with a little Chris 'signature' heat shrink and sleeving never hurts. I also used a hot glue gun to fix the wires in place where they exit the DVD for strength (I actually drilled a hole in the DVD plastic casing to allow the wires to exit).

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=197

The competed DVD being tested - LED OFF

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=199

And the LED ON

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=201

So thats it for tonight. I have one more to finish tomorrow but it will be a lot easier now I know what I am doing.

One final point - the wire is purposly short - gonna add a 4 way connector in between the switch and the DVD to allow easy assembly and removal of the DVD as the switch will be attached to the case permanently.

Have a good one.

Chris

Man this is some nioce modding man, your rig looks like tons of fun =]

ya that is a very nice idea for sure

Superb idea - well done phcjpp :cool:

Where r u going to mount the LED?

Also, how r u going to mount the stealth cover to the cd tray?

extra piccies a must on this mod :yepp:

The led will either go slightly above the drive cages on either side or in the center of one of the drive blanking plates .... can't quite decide yet - more pics will of course follow!

Chris

hmm should post 1 pic showing that drive tray opening via pushing the Blgin switch, that is a cool mod you did there.

Afternoon everyone. Well a few more pics for the last couple of days activity. Most of this centered around completing the HDD+DVD areas.

This one shows the rebuilt dvd with rubber washers ready to attach the cover plate.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=209

And a few of the dremmeling process.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=203

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=205

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=207


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=211

The I set about building the hard drives in. Here we see a 1TB Hitachi hard drive mounted using x-swing noise mounts.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=215


and one of the Raptors X's - I know I know you can't see the windows !

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=225


And three of the finished article. Each bay has 1 DVD + 2 hard drives.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=217


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=219


http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=223


Oh and a quick one of the connecter for the DVD - its a 4 pole audio connecter from Maplins int he UK.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=221


I had a little time spare so I build this power connecter into the MM perspex second power supply cover. Its gonna power the pumps.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=227


and here is the pump power supply made by Traco - 300w.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=229


Thats about it for now. I am busily trying the hardware in the case to work out where all the water cooling will go.

Chris

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

Afternoon everyone. Well a few more pics for the last couple of days activity. Most of this centered around completing the HDD+DVD areas.

This one shows the rebuilt dvd with rubber washers ready to attach the cover plate.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9942.JPG

And a few of the dremmeling process.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9937.JPG

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9939.JPG

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9940.JPG

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9943.JPG

The I set about building the hard drives in. Here we see a 1TB Hitachi hard drive mounted using x-swing noise mounts.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9948.JPG

and one of the Raptors X's - I know I know you can't see the windows !

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9956.JPG

And three of the finished article. Each bay has 1 DVD + 2 hard drives.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9949.JPG

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9950.JPG

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9954.JPG

Oh and a quick one of the connecter for the DVD - its a 4 pole audio connecter from Maplins int he UK.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9953.JPG

I had a little time spare so I build this power connecter into the MM perspex second power supply cover. Its gonna power the pumps.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9959.JPG

and here is the pump power supply made by Traco - 300w.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_9960.JPG

Thats about it for now. I am busily trying the hardware in the case to work out where all the water cooling will go.

Chris

---

What did you use to cut into that acrylic piece. I'm thinking of doing the same for my meanwell but I'm unsure of what tool to use and the process.

Just a standard drill bit, the flat ones with a sharp tip designed for cutting large holes in wood - 25mm wide if I remember corectly (about 1.5mm thick).

Hope that helps - they come in most drill bit sets you get. Just drill it real slow with minimum pressure on the plastic. Also drill from both sides to leave a clean hole.

Once my drill bit was mostly through I actually finished it off with a dremmel.

There is a huge danger when drilling plastic that you shatter it - take a lot of care and go s-l-o-w.

Chris

anymore pics?

Can't believe i have missed this thread! Subscribed!

Thats a brilliant idea about the drive, very ingenious indeed. You have solved my problem as well - how to get a DVD drive to open on the Apple G5 case i am working on atm.

I have PM'd you about that actually. :)

Keep up the great work! :up:

A spade bit?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...k/spadebit.jpg

Thats the fellow - just take a lot of time and don't pressure it and it will work fine - nice and gentle. more pics will follow ... have been mostly thinking about cooling layout.

Have decided I have to remove that support for the motherboard tray - its gotta go. Here it is from the side

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=223


and a different view

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=231


Have ordered some acrylic rods and a tap/die kit and will build replacement supports that still allow the motherboard tray to be removed but returns all the wasted space back to me for cooling. I want the dual reservoirs side by side.

I cannot believe thats the best support solution MM could come up with. Pics of my solution will of course follow in a few days when the bits have arrived. Also waiting on the swiftech stealth launch this week for the final cooling bits. Have decided to run a blue and a pink loop!

Chris

Ahh, you must work on this faster, haha. I am in between a Duality and a Horizon. Oh, were you saying that the rear 2x120 holes are not inline with a pa120.3? GREAT WORK!! Thanks!

yes i think they are not inline for pa rads. but you could attach 1 120mm fan and still support the rad weight...

Yeah that's fair to average design for a supposedly good case. It wouldn't stand in my world either. I'm sure you can space frame it or replace it totally.

A little work update - been a little tied up last few days but expect some progress soon.

Firstly installed the 3 monitors and the sound system. Used vesa mounts for the 19" fellows.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=239


Next I started building the replacement motherboard support.

Cutting the acrylic

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=241


And then drilling

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=243


Tomorrow night should get it all lit up by UV.

Chris

Well another day a little more achieved. Here is tonights work log.

In goes the power supply with its cables all tidied up.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=245


Here you can see a bundle of spairs underneath the galaxy.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=247


Next up a couple of shots of the replacement motherboard support

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=249


and in the case

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=251


finally a proposed layout for the pumps and their power supply.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=255


Think thats about it for the night - next up is mounting the pumps on their shock absorbers and getting the rads in.


Have a good one.

Chris

Wow, nice work, everything is so clean!

very, very neat m8.
absolutely love the 3 lcd setup :up:

Thanks guys ! Well my stealths are finally in at petras so i will soon have all the bits i need!

Chris

this is a brilliant log, everything explained in nice detail :)

Nice work there but that seems like an awful lot of trouble to go to with the optical drives, in my opinion of course. Back in the day when I used to stealth drives in Lian Li's I would cut them down flush and dremel all the edges angled internally to minimize any potential risk of catching. I used cork pads by the button area and double sided tape between the tray and the plate. I would then drill a small 1mm hole etc lined up with the activity light and cut off a small piece from a SP/DIF optical cable and bond it in. All of this sat 100% flush, opened by touch directly on the plate and showed the activity very well too, normally took about 30-45 mins to do perfectly. Of course we all have our own ingenious ways of doing these things ;).

Cheers,

Nick.

Oops Bug**********:mad: :mad: :mad:

Gonna have to make a new top.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=257


Not enough patience I am afraid on my part.

Chris

ass :(

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

Oops Bug**********:mad: :mad: :mad:

Gonna have to make a new top.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...1/IMG_0042.JPG

Not enough patience I am afraid on my part.

Chris

---

I almost did the same thing from rushing. The hole for my fillport seemed to be taking an AGE and pretty well no matter which tool I chose, I just couldn't get the 'hot knife through butter' tool :(, mungo was angry at this point. In the end I end made mine slightly too big and had to glue the seals top and bottom of the fillport as it had a fillport clamping against it trying to make an airtight seal against the roof. I loathe drilling perspex/acrylic.

Well a few hours wasted but back on track. Bought the replacement perspex from local B&Q (ouch) and with trusty hacksaw in hand off I went. Took a little more care with the drilling this time and even learn't how to rivit! Anyway results below now including the 2 fill ports.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=259


Tomorrow is pump mounting and power supply I think.

Chris

the fillports look real nice in the top like that :)
Nice work phcjpp

Another day a bit more progress !

Pump with noise supressing mounts

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=261


Holes drilled in case for pump mounting

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=263


Pump wired up

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=265


At last - a use for the motherboard support. Gonna move it nearer the front of the case and use it to hold the powersupply. Much Dremmeling to get that hole cut.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=267


Rather cute acrylic mount constructed for the reservoirs.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=269


Finally a couple of fill ports fitted for drainage.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=271


Chris

Nice job men keep going ;)

What tools are you using to cut into your case/mobo support and your acrylic pieces. I'm almost frightened to tough acrylic as I see all the horror stories people have in cracking it.

Hi,

Hack saw is fairly good at cutting straight sections of acrylic. For holes in acrylic I use the spade drills mentioned earlier. Very slowly and from both sides with a pilot hole often finished off with the dremmel sander is my favourite method. Its fairly easy to work with, just take your time.

As for cutting the case - either a hole saw for the fill ports or a dremmel in 'free-style' mode. Again slow and careful wins the day.

Chris

this is looking great phcjpp! please keep the pics coming :yepp: :clap:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by phcjpp

Hi,

Hack saw is fairly good at cutting straight sections of acrylic. For holes in acrylic I use the spade drills mentioned earlier. Very slowly and from both sides with a pilot hole often finished off with the dremmel sander is my favourite method. Its fairly easy to work with, just take your time.

As for cutting the case - either a hole saw for the fill ports or a dremmel in 'free-style' mode. Again slow and careful wins the day.

Chris

---

Thanks for the tips. Now I just have to get over my uneasiness of cutting up a MM case. Let me know how you managed to mount the MW PSU. I'm still having difficulty finding a place for it since moving to the Horizon.

Evening all .... well here a few pics from todays workathon.

Wiring up the PSU - please note its not a meanwell but guess does the same thing.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=275


zoomed out view

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=277


removing the NB and SB cooler from the EVGA 680i

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=279


bare board

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=281


eek what a mess - time for some TIM cleaner

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=283


and the results - finally some tubing going in - everything still loose though

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=285


side shot

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=287


and the cube itself

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=289


fully pimped Iwaki

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=291


Thats all folk's :)

Chris

Thats looking damn sweet!

That is looking awesome, keep it going.

Rob

Hi All,

Well some more progress this evening.

Firstly a quick shot of a couple of water temp sensors I made.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=301


Next up a new arrival - well a pair of them in fact - 2 stealths !

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=303


I finally got round to doing some leak testing here.

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=305


As you can see from the wet board, filling up was fun and there were in fact a few leaks. All from the rad area. The little rad screw didn't seem to be tight on one rad and the barbs were not tight on another.

Here is a stealth - this time connected up

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=309


finally a aerial view of the motherboard cooling in its box :)

http://www.chrispurves.com/gallery/m...&g2_itemId=313


Thats about all - gonna leave it on 'soak test' for tonight.

I finally feel I am getting somewhere with this build. I can actually see the end in sight !

Chris

looking good man....*-)

How'd you mount your dual EK reservoirs?