Iwaki Pumps..... hmm what size?

[PimpJack]

i am looking for an Iwaki pump for my swifty pelt gf4 block and 12inx11in monsterous lytron rad with 2 10in fans.:slobber: I can't decide if the md-20rlt is enough.. well it is but will a md-30rlxt be a better performer or just overkill. The proce is quite hefty so i want to make a good choice. So far I found the md-30rlt or rlxt for $195 shipped. I need some input as well as links if u know any good stores. Thanx

:toast: Paul

UPDATE: Here are the pics of my latest setup. Very messy couse the mobo/computer doesn't work yet.

http://home.attbi.com/~mini-maxrealty/h2o.jpg

http://home.attbi.com/~mini-maxrealty/h2o2.jpg

[Craig]

I would suggest you not get a MD-**rlxt of any size. The x pumps are high volume and low head/pressure pumps and won't do the best for you in a WC set up. The rlt type pumps are pressure rated pumps and are better and (if you find one) the rlzt type Iwaki pumps are best of all as they are high pressure rated.

Try here for a Z series of Iwaki pump. A MD-30rlzt is the pump I'm looking to get for a system I hope to build later this year. 36' of head/24psi pressure rate @ 4.6 gpm ! ! This pump can make 3-4gpm through a WC set up possible depending on what your set up is. And yours should be a great one from the items you named.

www.iwakiwalchem.com

Good luck !

[PimpJack]

I noticed that the 30x has a pretty high head so i figured it would do fine in my setup that really shouldn't be that restrictive. I know the 20 x would crap out but the 30x just might put out some crazy flow rates.

[Craig]

What size of lines do you intend to use to handle that high rate of flow?

[PimpJack]

1/2in id tygon

I just ordered a WMF-30RLT for $146 shipped. I could have gotten a japanese but I figured almost $200 for a pump is insane. I hope the American isn't too loud. I think i will have some problems with fittings on the pum. it sais 3/4in NPT i beleieve. Is NPT threaded on the inside for a barb to screw in there?

[Craig]

Glad to see you ordered the RLT pump.

Not to worry about those pump fittings. Just get two female/female adaptor/reducers and screw them onto the male threads on the pump. Any plumbing shop can set you up with these. Then use reguler barbs of your choice.

Of course you also could run 3/4" copper lines off the pump to the rad then into the puter and up near the mother board where a distributer would split the flow to CPU & Gfx ect. ;) Then the outlets from the blocks could be rejoined in the same manner and back out. Would only require making 2 manifolds (plexi). By the way what size fittings does your rad have?

That second option would sure follow the sites name. But man wouldn't it perform?:toast:

I sure hope you post up your systems performance when up and running. It will have to be impressive. What CPU block are you going to run? Other blocks? CPU pelt?

Your results, most of all your flow rate, interest me a lot. If you get over 5gpm I might just get that RLT instead of the RZT.

Once again, great system man ! !

:cool:

[PimpJack]

Craig- if u need a pump get it from www.drsfostersmith.com the MONSTER just came in. funny story: I come home and see my Iwaki at the door. WOOT. I open it and its huge, heavy, and just straight out beastly. I had no fittings besides a short elbow that would fit. Of course patiance is not my virtue so i rigged up the elbow and put a gal bottle of water upside down intu the elbow. Over my sink I pluged it in and stupid me had the outlet under my head (about 2 feet ) the pump gurgled and than shot me with a gallon of water!!!!! I'm soaked and the bathroom is a mess. From what i heard in the split seconds of pumping that gallon the pump is quiet LOL although i was shocked and being shot at.

I think i overdid it with the 30rlt pump, but this is my setup that i will have running when swiftech gaskets come in this week.

rad that is 22x11x3in (above was a typo) -- gf4 block-- swiftech mcw-462 uht 226w-- MOSTER Iwaki.

Here is what i want to construct. 2 mc50t pelt blocks (gpu and chipset) i will buy a rubbermaid shelf like thing to put the rad on top of and the iwaki feeding form a plexi res below. I want to have a Y splitting the flow to the gpu/chipet (inline) and the other side to the cpu. and of course another Y to put the two together.

Oh the rad has tubing within that is one step below 1/2in id but the barbs on it can be changed to 1/2in. THe 3/4 copper idea would be sweet but the comp and rad/pump aray have to be connected with flexible tubing for ease of moving and upgrading comp.

I think u do not need more flow than what this pump offers. Keep in mind (i didn't) that the Iwaki pumps are rated at 4ft head. The load of a setup might acually be less than 4ft head so probably the flow will be higher than rated or at least rated. In this case ~10 gpm

Tell me what u think!!

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by PimpJack


I think u do not need more flow than what this pump offers. Keep in mind (i didn't) that the Iwaki pumps are rated at 4ft head. The load of a setup might acually be less than 4ft head so probably the flow will be higher than rated or at least rated. In this case ~10 gpm

Tell me what u think!!
With your setup you will have more than 4ft head of pressure, that is for certain. You definately won't have an issue with flow though so no worries. If I had to guess at what your flow rate would be with that pump and your set up I would say around 8 - 10lpm. I have the baby brother, the MD-15RT - Just 300GPH at 0 head but a max head of 3.4 meters. I love it.

[PimpJack]

A little update: I am returning the pump. Unfortunately its defected.. or so I think. The WMD pump i recieved turned out to be ectremely loud when hooked up too my system. (all the previous excitment overshadowed the noise). Its spaced out beating noise and the tube coming frome the outlet pulses to the beat. The pump housing gets so hot that i can't touch it for more than a sec. I do think its a defect but i will go with a MD pump now.

I think a 20rlt will do.

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by PimpJack
A little update: I am returning the pump. Unfortunately its defected.. or so I think. The WMD pump i recieved turned out to be ectremely loud when hooked up too my system. (all the previous excitment overshadowed the noise). Its spaced out beating noise and the tube coming frome the outlet pulses to the beat. The pump housing gets so hot that i can't touch it for more than a sec. I do think its a defect but i will go with a MD pump now.

I think a 20rlt will do.
You would be much better off with the MD-20RZT than the RLT.

[Craig]

I agree with niksub1. But also still think larger diamiter lines would also help.

I'm sorry to hear that your pump didn't work out the way you'd hoped. (Must admit your bathroom experiment cracked me up.)

[PimpJack]

I just ordered a mcw50-t for my vid card. I'm gonna run a Y after the rad that will take the main 1/2in to the cpu and a 3/8 to the vid and a Y to connect it all before the pump. What do u think? Should I run all 1/2in or will the 3/8th nicely distribute flow.

Still debating on 30rlt or 20rlt and possibly rzt

[Craig]

You know I got to thinking about how you said that first pump acted. Extremly hot, making a loud noise that seemed to rise and fall in time with a pulseing of the outlet hose.

Best I can think of is that the pump was cavitating, this would account for all the above. As a pump cavitates it creates water vapor/air in the lines. This, if bad enough, would account for the pulsing of the outlet line and the pumps running hot. The heat being caused by the slipping and grabbing of the pumps impeller stresses the pump and also the bearings arn't being cooled when ever a air/vapor pocket hits the impeller. When you ran the bathroom test you didn't hear it as without any backpressure, no problem & no noise.

I could be wrong about this as I havn't ever seen it myself but have read posts where guys talk about it. From what I've read it usually happens with the more powerfull pumps & small (for the pump) lines. If you go to a site called pro cooling they have a article up now dealing with restrictions in lines & fittings. There is also a posted discussion of a members new Iwaki 30rlz pump and how it should be set up (water cooling & phase change forum), 1/2" lines don't seem well thought of for the powerfull Iwakis.

I wish I knew more so I could give you better help, but I don't. Thought that when you ordered the rlt instead of the rlxt you'd be OK. But I am sure that the guys over at pro cooling will know how to help you and most likely what went wrong the first time.

www.procooling.com

Best of luck to you.

[PimpJack]

Thanx craig. I ordered a japanese 30rlt a few minutes ago. I hope it doesn't happen again. I will check out procooling soon. What u said makes a lot of sense. The pump couldn't clear the tubes of bubbles no matter how long I let it run. I used a T (although a big res right before the pump should help) and the pump made the water go steadily increase up the T and sometimes it would almost empty it. Had an auful time with it. Also if T was capped, uncapping it would cause a change in pressure and the water would shoot up some in the T line.

Thnx again

Maybe i should change my order to 20rlt

[Craig]

From the reading I did over there, I'd say get a Z pump, and if you're going to stay with 1/2" lines I'd get the 20rlz.

I'd suggest you do a search on Iwaki pumps here and at pro cooling and see how guys with good performing systems using the Iwakis set up those systems. Most of all look at which series rlt, rlz ect, and size of pump they used, along with line and rad sizes. Might save you some headaches & money.

YOur blocks are a low resistence design, Swifty's are about the lowest resistence blocks I know of, so the lines, rad & or the pump series/size has to be what caused the problem the first time.

All the best man.

[PimpJack]

Finally got my MD-30rt. It is sooooo much smaller than the american, go figure. I will go to homedepot today and buy something for a reservoir. Any sugestions. I think i will use plexi and just build a box. How should i seal/glue it and how to put barbs in it. I think i will cut a hole for the barbs slightly smaller than the outer diamater and screw them in. I hope that works. I'll post results of this pump. So far it looks promising

[Craig]

Hey, glad to hear you got your differant pump.

You'll need some plexi glue, it's called weld someting but don't recall, to use plexi I think. Not really sure.

What I've given thought to is to use copper tube/line of large diamiter. Hears what I've been thinking about & stand by here comes a really longgggg post.

Buy some copper T fittings that are 1" or larger on the main line and 5/8"-3/8" the size you use at/on your blocks, on the side for the plexi line to hook to. You can have 2 of these T's or whatever you want up near the mother board. Then below those T's have a section of the large sized tube going down until close to the pump's inlet. Here have a reducer down no smaller than the ID of the pump's inlet. To connect this to the pump, have a matching barb on the pump's inlet and use as short a section of Tygon line to connect the two. Now on the top end where you're left with a open T end I'd fit a reducer to say 1/2" and then run 1/2" ID Tygon line to the top of my case and out a small hole in the puters top by way of a flanged fitting with barbs on inside and a threaded cap or a male plug on the outside. This should be strong as H3LL.

I have to admit that I'm more comfortible with the stronger copper tubing where I can use it than the plastic stuff. I know plastic is what most use, but figure the extra strength can't hurt anything. Also copper can be bent into curves, this avoids use of fixed 90"s, 45"s ect. of plastic or brass used in a all Tygon/silicone set up. Would like to be able to use Y's but don't think they are made in copper.

When we exchanged posts/ideas before it got me thinking on how I'd really set up my system when I build it. So I'm thinking of haveing the copper lines in 3 sections, anyone of them easy to remove. By breaking it down in sections you could use it even in a system that is moved sometimes.

I'll use more copper lines from the outlet of the pump to the rad as another section easy to disconnect. Then from the rads outlet a oversize line at least 5/8" in size to up by the motherboard. There a switch to Tygon going on to the CPU and other blocks, then the Tygon would be connected to those T's back at the starting point of all this. My intention is that my only res will be that large line down from the mother board.

I'm unsure about some things yet.

1) How large does that line down to the pumps inlet need to be for good air elimination? I'm going to try fitting pump & all into a oversized full tower case, mine isn't going to move often so I'm not worried about weight. PC76 Lain Li looks best size wise for my purposes but $$$$$$$$$ so still looking for alternatives for the case.

2) Where would be best to have a drain point at?

3) What size heater core am I going to use? Most likly the answer to this will be the biggest one I can stuff in the case.

One concern I have for your build is that huge 10gpm flow rate. You are right to run muliple lines after the rad. I think I'd run one large line to near the mother board though, then devide up the flow. And if it were me I'd run the largest lines to the blocks they can take, 10gpm is a lot of flow, best to have the largest lines possible to blocks to make room for that flow rate. Then from the blocks a short section of line back to a second large line to then exit the case. But while using the largest lines possible that still leaves your rad, with tubing of 1/2" or less. If the pump acts up again, go shopping for two of the biggest Heater cores you can find (edit: also with the largest inlet & outlets), so you can lower the pressure going through the rad section.

One other thought, although this would only be for informational purposes: Perhaps have a pressure/psi gauge incorporated in the system between the pump and your rad. This would tell you your max. system pressure. With that you can get your flow rate off a MD-30 performance curve chart/graph.

Man like I said before I wish I knew more, but I don't. This is the most detailed & complete thoughts I can offer. I hope they help you in some way. Thinking on this though has helped me better invision how I'll try setting up my own when built.

Looking back at how much I've typed, do you think it's enough to publish??? :D

And what are your thoughts on my ideas? Let me know what problems you can forsee in it, and any help you have for my points of doubt would be great.
:help: :D

All the best to you !:toast:

[PimpJack]

I got everything up and running. Before I comment on ur nice post I will tell u what I came up with. The temporary setup is...
Pump-- 3/8in tygon-->3/8 rad--1/2in---Y split... 1st leg 1/2in-->swiftech pelt (cpu)--Y connecting it all and 1/2in back to pump.

2nd leg Y--3/8-->Swiftech pelt (gpu)-->3/8th back to Y and together to pump.

Ok here is my problem. The flow rate sucks going to the cpu. With the system inline on my floor the coldplate of the cpu block (no gpu pelt running) was -23c. When I switched to parallel the coldplate dropped dramatically down to -12c. That is auful. The ViaAqua had more than that. The Y's are 1/2in so that the 3/8th could connect. I origionalyy wanted all barbs to be 5/8in but that hasn't happened yet. I ordered 10ft of 1/2 tubing to play around with so I have a lot of possibilities. If u could tell me why the flow rate is so horrible to the cpu i would be thankful. What are the principles of parallel systems? Smaller get less flow or vice versa?

I like ur idea of copper tubes and it would be the best/nicest way to do it, but I have my rad and pump outside of the case so no go there. There is no case that i could buy that would house this stuff either. Also the Iwaki puts out a lot of heat so case cooling would need to be good for ur case. If u have 5/8 in front of the pump i don't think u will need a res. It would be a pain to fill the system if u have the T after the pump. This is best for bleeding so its a tradeoff. AS far as draining i would just turn everything upside down. but that might be too much to handle considering the pump and rad will way a lot and u may not want to completely secure them to ur case. U could have a T with a cap on it facing down to the bottom of the case (with a hole in the bottom of case) befor the pump.
I hope that helps and i'm looking forward to some imput on my problem. I'm thinking about rynning the damn thing inline. Do u think putting the pump after the rad will help some? I'll try to get some pics up soon.

Ce-ya

[Craig]

I thank you for your suggestion on the drain, sounds good to me.

I can see two ways to gowith your situation.

1) Exchange pump for MD-30 Z or MD-20 Z. To be honest, this is what I'd do at this point, but then I'd also do most of option 2 as well at the same time.

2) Remove or decrease every restriction I could, any way I could. And with your pumps 10gpm I think this is a must in order to make use of that pump. As you are not trying to fit your cooling system into a case it offers more options. I myself would use copper lines unless otherwise noted.

a) REplace current rad with dual heater cores, both haveing inlet/outlet no less than 5/8".

b) Run a 1" line from pump to 1" T then dual lines off the T to the heater cores 5/8" or 3/4" depending on the inlet size or your cores. ( I relize this requires a step up in line size greater than the outlet. But will reduce water velocity and thus head loss.)

c) rejoin the outlets from the cores into 1" line. This line now runs into your case at some level below the video card. This line then to curve up past the Gfx card and it's block. When the line is as close as possible to the Gfx block have a T in the line with the side line coming off the main lime being 5/8". Only enough copper off the T to allow a good attachment point for a Tygon 5'8" line. The main line near the CPU to have a reducer going down to 5'8" here as well. Again a short bit of Tygon line to ease the connections work. The stiffness of copper lines here offers a really strong advantage vs. tygon type lines. The stiff copper lines won't "hang" off the blocks stressing them as Tygon would. Yet the Tygon will be enough to steady the whole line comeing up from the below. Thus your T.I.M. joint under your blocks won't be affected by torque on the blocks from sagging Tygon lines, should give you a better more consistant seal & thus temps.

I'd have 5/8" barbs in the blocks if the blocks can take them. If the blocks are limited to 1/2" I'd drill the barbs out to 9/16" to increase allowable flow that way. Would also use a dremmel stone tip to grind out the end of every barb on the end water comes into so as to have a low restriction cone shaped tapered entry to the barbs. Use this same dremmel tip to make sure the inside of the copper lines are smooth at their ends. Then Connect the 5/8" lines to the blocks and then do the same in reverse to plumb the water from the blocks out of the case and back to the pump useing the same size lines in each comparable step & I'd keep them as tight with the inlet lines as possible to reduce their affect on case air flow. All copper lines should be the soft and easy to bend type. This will allow sweeping curves intead of tight and restrictive elbows and such. Anywhere you need to for ease in working with this system cut the copper line and use a small section of braided plumbing line of the right ID to reconnect them. Then you can real easy break the copper lines down into sections much easier to deal with.

I really can't say how much of that 10gpm flow this set up above would recover. But it is without doubt going to allow for a serious increase vs. your currant single rad with small inlet/outlets and much smaller lines. Those small lines, restrictive rad and any small fittings are choking your pumps 10gpm starting flow down to the near nothing you are seeing at your blocks.

But as I said at the beginning of this, I myself would exchange the pump for a 30z as a starting point. I feel quiet sure a 30Z combined with oversize lines could push a flow of somewhere between 3.5 & 4gpm.

You've worked pretty hard already trying to get this working properly. I hope some of this helps. And honestly I'm interested in seeing if your pump can exceed the fow of the 30Z type. Just looking at the starting flow rates of the two pumps it would seem pretty easy to do. But not so in practice it would seem.

ga'luk m8:toast:

[Craig]

One added bit.

www.heatercore4u.com

I'd suggest looking at GM first. The Buick Electra rad #2-144 is the largest one I've found so far that doesn't come with sheet metal flanges and such attached.

& note that it has 3/4" inlets:D :thumbsup:

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by PimpJack
...setup is...
Pump-- 3/8in tygon-->3/8 rad--1/2in---Y split... 1st leg 1/2in-->swiftech pelt (cpu)--Y connecting it all and 1/2in back to pump.

2nd leg Y--3/8-->Swiftech pelt (gpu)-->3/8th back to Y and together to pump...
This setup is your problem. Use all 1/2" tubing, bag the 3/8 stuff all together, too small for that pump. Run everything is series, NO PARALLEL!!!!!!! Run like this: pump>rad>cpu>gpu>pump OR pump>cpu>gpu>rad>pump. Eiether way will be fine but get rid off all the Wye's and 3/8" stuff!

[PimpJack]

nikhsub1: That is my next step as i have 10ft of 1/2in clearflex comming in this week. I hope it drops the temps segnificantly.

Craig: Ur ideas are very proffessional, but i don't think i could manage doing that. First I'm iffy about using copper couse what happens if I want to get a new motherboard? It would be an extreme pain to take the old one out and put a new one in. I do see how sweet the copper would look and how much cleaner it would be. If the inline way with 1/2in doesn't work too well then I will be forced to go all out and use ur ideas. Its a lot of hard work but ultimately worth the effort. I do have another problem. That is peltier heat!!!! I now have 226w and 80w pelt folding in my bedroom 24/7 and its hot in here. The rad does a good job with water temps being low but my room doesn't know what to do with all that heat. I have to keep my window open and its febuary...brrr I don't want to imagine what summer in GA will bring.

The Y's and 3/8th are definately going to be out the window soon enought. I love the rad but it is very restrictive. Two layers of 3/8th copper tubes going back and forth for 20in. .... a quick calculation gave me 43ft of copper tubing!!!!!!! that is a lot.

[nikhsub1]

Pimp you need a heatercore bad. The www.dtekcustoms.com core should be all you need. For some perspective here, the swiftech quietpower's have been running a 226W and an 80W with 1/4" tubing, a crappy rad and an Eheim 1048 pump and doing very well. Of course, this is ALL IN SERIES. If you have the room for 2 rads, you could go rads in series like this:

pump>rad>CPU>rad>GPU>pump. Again, there is nothing wrong with going pump>CPU>GPU>rad>pump if that makes the tubing less and easier to hook up.

[Craig]

Well, it occured to me that as that large heater core has a 5/8" outlet there is little point to continuing with line larger than 3/4". And I havn't found any cores of the size you need with outlets larger than 5/8". Although a metal working shop should be able to remove the OEM inlet/outlets and replace with 3/4-1". But have no idea what this would cost, except more.:(

As to problems doing a MB upgrade. That's why you'd want to have breaks in the copper lines joined with Tygon. Drain the lines (I'd have the drain valves inline like you thought of but just outside the case in your situation) then disconnect the section of lines at the case near where they come in, (have one of those breads either just inside or outside the case wall.), and at the motherboard blocks. You'll have to do this with Tygon as well, except it may be possible to only detach at the mother board with those flex lines. As you need to drain and change the water in the system at the very least once per year you could do this at least part of the time as part of your upgrading.

By the way how often do you do MB/major upgrades? If you do them as often as it sounds I know of a charity that would love to have them (me). =D

I think you'll see a fair increase with those 1/2" lines, but no where near your pumps potential max flow. I'll bet on less than 2.5 gpm with the 1/2" lines, unless you change rads. That Buick heater core has 6-7 tall (2.5")but thin "plate type tubes" going both down & back through the core from inlet to outlet. As each of these has more flow than a 3/8" tube it's easy to see how much less restrictive 6-7 of them would be. And that Buick's core cooling area is 11.25" X 6.125" X 2.5" this means you could fit two fans of 120mm or even as much as 135mm each on both sides. Even low volted for low noise 2-4 fans of these types can move a good deal of air. That is a good large cooling area with good air flow, and should handle the heat of your pelts no problem. MAN, with 43 feet of 3/8" with lord knows how many 180 degree turns it's no wonder your pump is struggling. Surprising thing is it's doing the job at all.

I'm coming around to the idea that a MD-30 is a two edged sword even a Z type like I'd prefer. The bigger the pump the more watts of heat the pump itself adds to the water. And the lower the efficiency the pump is working at the more heat it adds. And the MD-30 pumps have a wattage draw of 115. Iwaki pumps are supposed to be about the most effective made in terms of not adding heat to the water, but 115 is a lot of watts. I read a post where a guy said that a MD30 adds 47 watts to the water if at 70% efficiency. I don't know where he got his numbers but that would put the pump ahead of the GFX and close to the CPU in heat added, not counting your pelts. At 25% that same pump will be adding a lot more. This is a second reason along with maintaining a high flow for it's cooling of the blocks sake for my obsession with big lines.

As to the heat in your bedroom. 1) install a termostat for that individual room if your heating/cooling system supports this. 2) Install a modest sized 4-6" vent with fan in the wall ajoining the next room up high on the wall. This would pull out the warmest air in the room and spread it into the next room solving your problem that way. 3) move the 450 watt "heater" to the new addition you've suddenly decided to build.:D ;)

[PimpJack]

Originally posted by nikhsub1
Pimp you need a heatercore bad. The www.dtekcustoms.com core should be all you need. For some perspective here, the swiftech quietpower's have been running a 226W and an 80W with 1/4" tubing, a crappy rad and an Eheim 1048 pump and doing very well. Of course, this is ALL IN SERIES. If you have the room for 2 rads, you could go rads in series like this:

pump>rad>CPU>rad>GPU>pump. Again, there is nothing wrong with going pump>CPU>GPU>rad>pump if that makes the tubing less and easier to hook up.

I have to say u are in the wrong with the dtek core. I have one and that is what I used when I first got the belt...well actually i just tested the pelt with the core outside my comp and it got blistering hot with a 120mm enermas fan at full speed. I would never reccomend that heatercore for a pelt. Maybe teo in series would be nice but one can't do it. Over time it just kept on getting hotter and hotter and pelt temps were increasing with time. I knew that the heatercore couldn't keep up with the heat so I got the lytron all copper rad that works great!!!!!

I just redid my loop and it is all 1/2in. I took of the barbes from the rad and found that the tubes are almost 1/2in so i just clamped on the tygon onto those. Unfortunately I §§§§e'd up my Epox 8rda+ some how so I can't tell u if the temps are any better. I will have pics up fairly soon. I thnk I will get some serious performance out of my setup now. :toast:

[Craig]

Did you have a shroud on the core??

And this rad is even better than the other one I posted before, 2-203 8" X 8.25" X 2.5" about the same total internal volume as that other one. But due to it's haveing 9 tubes per pass instead of 7 it's two passes & lower resistence, and didn't you say the rad you're useing has 43. And this core is 2 1/2 times the volume/size of the D-tek core you tried, it's taller, wider & thicker.

If you get a gauge to messure psi between your pump and that rad I'll bet you'll be very surprised to see how hard your pump is being worked. You can buy one at the local plumbing shop for about $12 dollars. I just ordered a core the other day, and it cost me like $32, they don't cost near as much at a auto shop compared to the puter sites on the web.

The try the heater core above with 5/8 or 3/4" lines, and cut your back pressure by some where between 50-65%. That would allow you to double your flow rates.

[PimpJack]

Craig: Ur heatercores4u link is dead!! so i don't know what core u are talking about... can u point me in the right direction?

I did use a shroud at the time of testing but it was held up to the Hcore. I really like this rad because it is really high quality. U can't beat the 2 10in diameter fans in the back that are not pictured and the entire rad is made of copper. The fans are really quiet (220v running at 115v AC) and move a LOT of air. I still need to get a decent reservoir couse the one I have now is really restrictive. Its a filter for the water in house pipes. 3/4 in and out but the inside routing is more like 1/2 .

[Craig]

Sorry about that, it's fixed now.

www.heatercore4u.com

Check under the Chrysler listing for Dodge trucks for B-series vans core # 2-308. This one has twenty tubes, for two passes so ten each way and it's total volume/area is 190 cubic inches. Best part is I think you'll be able to use those big fans of yours with this one. A second one is #2-203 under Buicks and it would give a bit lower back pressure than the first one. It has nine tubes going each way but they are 2.5" tall where the one with ten has 2" tubes. But it has lower total volume of area at 165 cubic inches. Also a reduced surface area of 8"X 8.25". I wouldn't buy from that site though, they are high on prices. I'm picking one up in the morning for $30 dollars that they list for $52.

The average core only has 6-7 tubes running each way. So one with Nine or ten should be really good for your powerfull pump. And as you don't want it in case the size don't matter. Both of these should handle dual TEC's.

And both will give a lot higher flow rate for you.

[phobix]

Since you guys are all talking about Iwaki pumps, perhaps someone can clarify something for me. I have 2 salvaged MD-15RGs, they are 300gph Jap versions from circa 1990. With my Graphics cooling setup running I notice that these pumps seem to get quite hot, not usually a problem as the pump is inline but is this normal? Are these pumps designed for constant duty? Thanks in advance..

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by phobix
Since you guys are all talking about Iwaki pumps, perhaps someone can clarify something for me. I have 2 salvaged MD-15RGs, they are 300gph Jap versions from circa 1990. With my Graphics cooling setup running I notice that these pumps seem to get quite hot, not usually a problem as the pump is inline but is this normal? Are these pumps designed for constant duty? Thanks in advance..
Yes very normal. I have the MD-15R in my system and the pump gets so hot that I can only touch it for a few seconds but as I said, normal. And yes they are rated for constant duty.

[phobix]

Thanks nikhsub1, I got a little worried after I touched the pump the first time, it was hot like hell. :eek:

[Craig]

Nikhsub1,

I've read where a lot of guys as well as sites selling Iwakis claim they add very little heat to the water.

As the energy has to go somewhere could this be why the pump housings get this hot?

[PimpJack]

I'm sure ur right craig. When i touch the housing its blistering hot but the heat stops before it gets to the water.

Thanx for the link..they are expensive like u said!!!! My 8rda+ will be here this week so I will definately post some temps.

[Craig]

I just bought a core that lists on Fedco for about 50$ for $30 at Napa auto parts brand new.

Core I got is 2-342 at the Fedco site. While not as large as some at Fedco it is one of the biggest of the single pass type. I cut off the long tubes and put a straight bit of pipe on the 5/8" outlet as it came out curving to close to the tank, so I had to take it off short then add the straight bit. Both inlet and outlet are just a bit over 1" now. It has 14 individual 2" flat plate type tubes, which doubles what 6" wides have in a 2 pass design. Should give low resistences.

Look forward to seeing how yours works when fully up again. Have you ordered a heater core yet? If so which one? 2-203 or 2-192 are both huge and very wide. Both have a larger than most number of tubes running each way, will give you lower resistences. 2-192 is the largest rad in the lists, but has some small flanges/mountings that would be a hassle to get rid of.

[PimpJack]

I don't think i will be getting a heater core.

[[H]rayman2k2]

hey guys, I am about to buy two heatercores, a LRWW CPU block, a GPU block, and two HDD blocks. ALL fittings are 1/2". I was thinking about buying either the WMD-20R(T), and reducing the fittings to 1/2", or the WMD-30R(T), and reducing the fittings to 1/2". Which one should I buy?
-EDIT-
or even the Ehiem1250 or Ehiem1260, I kind of want the pump to be in the case, so the fact that the pump is small is definately a priority.

[Craig]

Rayman,

If you go for a Iwaki of any size get the Z series pump for high pressure. Look at the pressure curves on this site for the differant Iwaki pumps. www.iwakiwalchem.com

A site that sells the Iwaki Z's is

www.deepseagallery.com

The MD-20Z is very good, the MD-30Z needs a system otherwise set up for minimum restrictions where possible to get the most out of it. But even the 20Z will do best if matched with 5/8" lines. And 5/8" or even 3/4" would be needed with the 30Z. Both these pumps are very large, 11" L X 3.5" W X 5.5" tall, not a easy fit where space is a concern.

The Iwaki 15 is a pump I don't see you mention, but better than any Ehiem made and lower cost than it's big brothers the 20 & 30 Z's. The Iwaki 15 is between the size of the Ehiem 1250 & 1260 so the 15 is much smaller than the huge 20 & 30, a better choice where space is limited. The Iwaki 15 draws only 30 watts while pumping 300 gph @ 11.1 ft. of head, the Ehiem 1250 draws 28 watts for 317 gph @ 6.7 ft. of head , The 1260 draws 50 watts for 600 gph. & 10.6 ft. of head.

As pressure matters much more than flow rate the Iwaki 15 is better than both the Ehiems. While the 1260 would deleiver about the same flow as the Iwaki it will also add 65% more pump heat to the water and thus isn't overall as effective. And the 1260 is operateing well below it's designed flow rate so will wear out more quickly.

As you wish to use 1/2" lines I would urge you to choose the Iwaki 15. It's much smaller and easier to fit than the 20 or 30, and also costs less to buy. The 15 should also deliver more flow at a lower temp than the Ehiems while still fitting into the same smaller area as a Ehiem.

[nikhsub1]

Originally posted by [H]rayman2k2
hey guys, I am about to buy two heatercores, a LRWW CPU block, a GPU block, and two HDD blocks. ALL fittings are 1/2". I was thinking about buying either the WMD-20R(T), and reducing the fittings to 1/2", or the WMD-30R(T), and reducing the fittings to 1/2". Which one should I buy?
-EDIT-
or even the Ehiem1250 or Ehiem1260, I kind of want the pump to be in the case, so the fact that the pump is small is definately a priority.
First, why 2 heater cores? Second, why bother water cooling the HD's? That is a big waste of time, money, energy, pump power, flow etc, etc. If you do get an Iwaki, do yourself a favor and get the MD series (Japanese motor) not the WMD (American Motor) as you stated. The WMD's are louder, bigger and run hotter than the MD series. Craig is right, I would look into the pump that I use, the MD-15R. It has a 3.4 meter head (or 11.1ft. as Craig stated). My setup is LRWW, MD-15, heatercore with 2 shrouds. So, your setup could be identical to mine with you just having a GPU block. Bag the HD's, seriously and you only need 1 core. Here is a couple of pics:

http://www.netbetty.com/H20/iwaki/inside.jpg

And now with EVERYTHING in the case:
http://www.netbetty.com/H20/asus/fullinside.jpg