Water Doesn't Seem To Be Working Right!

[BigPhillyEd]

Ok, hopefully some of you water cooling pro's can help me!

AMD Athlonn 64 X2 3800+
Asus A8N Deluxe
1 Gig Ram
XFX 7800GT
(2) Sansung Spinpoint HDD

I started with the Thermaltake Big Water Se cooling kit. Wasen't impressed, removed it all. One because its all 1/4" ID, two because the CPU cooler mounty was shorting out my mobo. Then I bought a swiftech 3/8" extreme CPU cooler, a Danger Den Maze4 GPU cooler. I used the one radiator from the big water se kit (which by the way is 120mm fan rad with 1/4" tubing but comes with 3/8" adapter fittings), i also purchased another rad, I got the thermaltake aqua bay M2 rad that fits in the 5.25" bays (again 120mm fan with 1/4" outlets with 3/8" fitting adapters) I also have the resorvoir from the big water se kit (which again is 1/4" with 3/8" adapters), and I installed the Swiftech MCP-350 3/8" pump.

Now I have it all set-up, nice and clean. I have the drive bay rad cooling the CPU (since it gets cold fresh air across the rad) then the line goes to the CPU cooler, then too the second rad and then in to the GPU cooler, then up to the resovoir and into the pump, and back to the drive bay rad.

Room Temp 75f
Now idle I am getting CPU: 38c GPU: 41c MOBO: 32c
Load (3dMark05) CPU: 55c GPU: 46c MOBO: 34c

Now I personally, not being an expert, but on my way. Think these temps are way off. This thing should be running alot cooler at idle and load. But now that I think about it, I feel those rads and res are giving my pump to much restriction. So I am not moving enough water and not fast enough.

So I think I need some feedback and some help! Let me know what you think.

Now the only thing I plan to add is, a Pelter liquid heat exchanger, that I am presently making right now. That will give me chilled water to the system. So I should get anywhere from 50f - 60f water entering the CPU cooler. Just cold enough to severly drop my cPU temps, but not cold enough for any condensation. But if I have water flow problems, it may not work to its max.

Big Philly Ed

[Dragoon42]

hrm...I know the thermaltake big water SE isn't all that great. What are you using to measure the temps? Sensor or software?

[carmelo]

hrm...I know the thermaltake big water SE isn't all that great. What are you using to measure the temps? Sensor or software?

That is a good point ... what are you using to measure temps? 55 Load is pretty high, with my modded koolance (that uses 1/4 lines) my load is you’re idle. If you can take a pic of your setup that would be helpful (to me any way). I know you explained your setup, but sometimes things are missed in an explanation some one may pick it out in a picture. Is your CPU block mounted correctly? Proper thermal paste application?

Just reread what you had posted ... Try putting the rads one after the other in series. I question relating to this several months ago and every one recommended placing the rads one after the other. Also how is the air getting to your rads. Having them mounted in a drive bay doesn’t seem the most ideal place for adequate air flow. Pick up a heater core from your local auto parts store and use the 120mm fans you have from those current rads and see how it performs then :) . I’m a big fan of heater cores sorry lol.

[Dragoon42]

That is a good point ... what are you using to measure temps? 55 Load is pretty high, with my modded koolance (that uses 1/4 lines) my load is you’re idle. If you can take a pic of your setup that would be helpful (to me any way). I know you explained your setup, but sometimes things are missed in an explanation some one may pick it out in a picture. Is your CPU block mounted correctly? Proper thermal paste application?

Just reread what you had posted ... Try putting the rads one after the other in series. I question relating to this several months ago and every one recommended placing the rads one after the other. Also how is the air getting to your rads. Having them mounted in a drive bay doesn’t seem the most ideal place for adequate air flow. Pick up a heater core from your local auto parts store and use the 120mm fans you have from those current rads and see how it performs then :) . I’m a big fan of heater cores sorry lol.


Lol, this cracks me up. I don't think i've seen one post where 1031.nu hasn't recommended a heater core from auto zone.

[BigPhillyEd]

I am using the Asus probe software that comes with the motherboard, so it uses MOBO board sensors. Everytime I mount a sensor wire between the cooler and cpu, it gets shorted somehow. I will try and post some pics. After further research I am storngly believing its from the restriction in the tubing, where the 3/8" and 1/4" adapters are.

[n00b 0f l337]

Nothing wrong with it for those cheap of budget Dragoon.

[moonlightcheese]

Nothing wrong with it for those cheap of budget Dragoon.
even for those without cheap budgets, it is a very competitive solution. i love my HC and wouldn't trade it for any purpose built rad (except a PA series ^_^).

now about your temps... i'm not surprised. you're using one extremely restrictive rad with terrible HX properties coupled with another similarly poor rad from the bane of efficient water cooling themselves (TT). your temps may be slightly off but they are in no way startling.

[BigPhillyEd]

These aren't actual photos but I drew this real fast and posted it. So who else thinks its the rads? I think its the restrictions 1/4" connections at the radiators and 1/4" connections at the tank. Now I would like to prove that prior to replacing them! But by my math:

Pump 1.54 GPM
CPU Block 2.6 GPM
GPU Block .9 GPM ( I question this but Im not the engineer)

I can find flow rates for 3/8 and 1/4" tubing, but I know 1/2" is rated for 1.8 GPM. So I would assume 3/8" should do about 1.4ish and 1/4" should be around 1 GPM. So I would be grossly restircted by about 30%. But I maybe reading into this to much.

I have to get this straightened out before I can proceed with putting in my secret water chiller, that I made. By the way I am an HVACR technician, so cooling is my name. If I can hit around 1.25 - 1.5 GPM I will be happy. And I really think it will lower my temps.

Check out the diagram of my system and let me know what you think?

And how accurate is the Asus temp probe software, I think it would be have to be the most accurate, since the probe is behind the processor.

http://h1.ripway.com/bigphillyed/BasicCoolingLayout1.jpg

[Gimmpy224]

Lol, this cracks me up. I don't think i've seen one post where 1031.nu hasn't recommended a heater core from auto zone.


:-P people are intitled to opinions.

and personaly I may go with a heater core, but im not sure. I got the money to blow on a PA plus I got the barbs ( thanks racin jimy ).

[racinjimy]

:-P people are intitled to opinions.

and personaly I may go with a heater core, but im not sure. I got the money to blow on a PA plus I got the barbs ( thanks racin jimy ).

your welcome :toast:

[carmelo]

Lol, this cracks me up. I don't think i've seen one post where 1031.nu hasn't recommended a heater core from auto zone.

I love the heatercores man what can I say, oh and 1/4 hoses there ok .. don't love them but there ok =/.


These aren't actual photos but I drew this real fast and posted it. So who else thinks its the rads? I think its the restrictions 1/4" connections at the radiators and 1/4" connections at the tank. Now I would like to prove that prior to replacing them! But by my math:

Pump 1.54 GPM
CPU Block 2.6 GPM
GPU Block .9 GPM ( I question this but Im not the engineer)

I can find flow rates for 3/8 and 1/4" tubing, but I know 1/2" is rated for 1.8 GPM. So I would assume 3/8" should do about 1.4ish and 1/4" should be around 1 GPM. So I would be grossly restircted by about 30%. But I maybe reading into this to much.

I have to get this straightened out before I can proceed with putting in my secret water chiller, that I made. By the way I am an HVACR technician, so cooling is my name. If I can hit around 1.25 - 1.5 GPM I will be happy. And I really think it will lower my temps.

Check out the diagram of my system and let me know what you think?

And how accurate is the Asus temp probe software, I think it would be have to be the most accurate, since the probe is behind the processor.

http://h1.ripway.com/bigphillyed/BasicCoolingLayout1.jpg

The software will be accurate enough for you to determine how well your system is working. It may be off a few degrees not too sure. If you’re getting around 50c though you still have an issue that needs to be resolved no matter what temperature software you are using.

I’m using ¼ hoses and my temps as I said above are pretty good. So I don’t think it’s due to downsizing the hose size.

EDIT: If you place the res, and the 2 rads all inline one after each other you would reduce the number of adapters you are using.

[BigPhillyEd]

I think what I will do is try installing the rads in series. But I am definately installing valves and purge system. This dumping coolant, and purging is a pain in the ass. Plus I want to install a bypass, for when I start experimenting with my liquid heat exchanger. If the heat exhanger project works, I may only need one rad if that. So I have to set it up for easy access to the system without it becoming a big project.

So if I change the rads, and put them in series, should I maybe change one of the rads to a more effecient rad with 3/8" inlet/outlet. The 2nd rad I cant do that with, its the thermaltake M2 that mounts in a 5.25 bay.

What do you guys think?

[carmelo]

I think what I will do is try installing the rads in series. But I am definately installing valves and purge system. This dumping coolant, and purging is a pain in the ass. Plus I want to install a bypass, for when I start experimenting with my liquid heat exchanger. If the heat exhanger project works, I may only need one rad if that. So I have to set it up for easy access to the system without it becoming a big project.

So if I change the rads, and put them in series, should I maybe change one of the rads to a more effecient rad with 3/8" inlet/outlet. The 2nd rad I cant do that with, its the thermaltake M2 that mounts in a 5.25 bay.

What do you guys think?

This is how I would hook it up ... Depending on location of parts ...

Res > Pump > Rad 1 (Bay) > Rad 2 (REAR) > CPU > Gpu > Res

Maybe the pump and the res are interchangeable... people have prefrences here on how things should be. I would def. hook it up in that fashion. I would do the pump after the res that way it still has pressure.

Switching components sucks I know. I've been modifying this koolance setup since the day I built it. I've gone through so much coolant already. I don't like to reuse it. Especially since I was mixing alu and copper before, you saw little sparkly things floating in my coolant.

[BigPhillyEd]

Well I mounted my pump to the res, so that it all fits nice and neatly in a 5.25 bay and less tubing clutter. I was going to order a new res, its only 19.00 and its mated for my pump so I can install right next tothe res. Same as now, but even less piping. Then I was going to go to the bay rad ( since this is the rad with the coolest fresh air, then to the other rad, to the cpu and then to the gpu backto the res. All as you stated. The only thing I am adding is my own purge and bypass system. So that I can install my experimental water chiller, without changing coolants and having to deal with that :banana::banana::banana::banana:ty air bound crap. The whole thing is I want to keep it clean looking, but only as clean as performance will allow me.

I was wondering if I should change the rear rad to a more effecient and with 3/8" outlets rad while I am in there. What do you think? I think I might try the HC thing alot cheaper and better by the sounds of it. Anyone know where I can find a good flow meter ?

[demonR6]

Perhaps having the two radiators is stressing out the pump? I've done the pump mod to that little sucker and man has it made a difference. The only caveat is your inlet would be modified to accept a 1/2 id and your rad outlet is 3/8 id so unless TT has a 3/8 npt to 1/2 id adapter you would be having to rig it. Pump moves a helluva lot more water, almost comparable to the MCP650 now.

EDIT: the 5.25 Bay Res from Swiftech has interchangeable fittings so you can run the 3/8 npt to 1/2 id tubing and maybe do this mod? Again, I don't know how pushing more water through your system would help your situation?

[Dragoon42]

I would probably try the setup that 1031.nu suggested. Also, have you ever tried measuring water temps? Maybe your water isn't getting the right cooling