Temps are worse since I switched to water cooling

[Vince2005]

ere is the setup
water block Swiftech MCW6002-64
radiator Double Heater Core with Danger Den shroud
pump Swiftech MCP655(I had problems with it leaking in the begging but I tightened it now its fine)
I added some Zerex Super Coolant
heatercore fans 2x 120mm Panaflo M1 Medium Volume esach one pushes 86.5 CFM of air at 35bd there silent
tubing cheap hardware brand theres no kinks in it but there are slight bend
I am using regular tap water.
When I first set it up I noticed there was styrofoam in the loop so I had to drain it out I didn't have a hardtiem drianign ti out first but the pump never ran dry but htere were lots of air bubbles
no there are no air bubles the pump I'm pretty sure is doing its job I have a temperature sensor under the block where it hangs over the the processor and I get 39C at fully stock speed no load and like 41 C load I also had random reboots so I put back to stock.I tired reseating it and I put one dot on each corner and one in the middel I might have put too much but I don't know. I'm relly unhappy because I spent 230 but I have worse temps.Why are my temps so bad?Is it the fans?

EDIT I can't feel the water running threw the heatercore like i can feel the vibration from the pump to the water block but not on the heatercore

[dastt]

maybe some air trapped in the rad.

[One_Hertz]

41C is a little bad. Not horrible though. Whats the ambient? Are you using windows programs to monitor the temperatures?

[.sentinel]

Tap water is bad. Spank Yourself then drain out your sysem and get some distilled water.

[Holst]

Tap water is bad. Spank Yourself then drain out your sysem and get some distilled water.

I use tap water. As long as your local water is pretty clean then its ok.

Tap water is DEFINATELY NOT going to give you bad temps thats for sure.

Ok- watercooling troubleshooting 101.

1 - Is the pump working?
test the pump in the sink or somewhere to check that its pumping ok.

2 - Is there a blockage in the rad/blocks.
With everything out of the case attach the waterblocks/rads individually onto the pump and make sure that the waterflow is ok.

Now we are confident that the water is flowing, do a full overnight leak test.

Next mount the CPU block into the PC, remove it and check that you have a good mount. If its ok remount it, do another leak test (better safe than sorry)

I would now run stock speeds on everything whyle testing at first.

Turn on and go into bios. Check the temp in the bios.

Let it sit in the bios for a few minutes. Test the water temp with a thermomiter. It should not be much over ambient.

If thats ok go into windows and run prime95 or similar. Keep an eye on water temps and CPU temp in windows.

If the water temp goes high then you have a rad/fan problem.

If the water is cool and the CPU goes high then you probably have a bad block mount. Possibly also very poor water flowrate(unlikely) or waterblock problem.

To be honest as long as your water is not hot, and your waterblocks are mounted good then your temps should be good as well.

it may be that your onboard sensors are lying to you.
Soemtiems manufacurers use sensors inside the socket to get the temp.
Under aircooling they can read low as air from the CPU fan cools them down.
Under watercooling this airflow is removed and the temp can read high ... even if the REAL cpu temp is lower.
So dont trust the onboard sensors.

If your system is stable then your probably ok.
If you can overclock more (try a bit more voltage) then your definately ok.
If your system is not stable, or you cant overclock then you may have a problem.

[[KoG]^weaZel]

how is the flow set up in the loop (ie res-->pump-->radiator-->cpu-->res)
Also need to make sure the water going into the cpu block is the center barb and the output is above the inlet. If not you may have a bubble in the waterblock.

[moonlightcheese]

1 - Is the pump working?
test the pump in the sink or somewhere to check that its pumping ok.

2 - Is there a blockage in the rad/blocks.
With everything out of the case attach the waterblocks/rads individually onto the pump and make sure that the waterflow is ok.
when you do this, fill the sink with water, connect a hose to the inlet, pump the discharge back into the sink through another tube. do the same when you connect the individual components. most likely that rad still has some blockage.


it may be that your onboard sensors are lying to you.
Soemtiems manufacurers use sensors inside the socket to get the temp.
Under aircooling they can read low as air from the CPU fan cools them down.
Under watercooling this airflow is removed and the temp can read high ... even if the REAL cpu temp is lower.
So dont trust the onboard sensors.
also note that it is a known fact that thermistors and MBM do NOT give accurate readings with the storm block. people have readings of higher temps but there OC's have increased with the storm block. the reason for this is that the storm block concentrates on carrying heat away from directly over the die, so the actual temp on the die will be different than the reported temp (will be lower). do not trust the MBM or thermistor in regards to the storm block.

[saratoga]

39C at fully stock speed no load and like 41 C load

Ambient temps? I'm skeptical that you actually did better then that with air unless this is very low power CPU or a very cold room. The 2C swing between idle and load also makes me think the CPU temp isn't being read correctly.

Try pointing a fan at the block and see if the temp goes down. I'm betting you're actually reading a combination of the warm air around the motherboard and the CPU temp. I think your air temps looked lower just because the heatsink circulated the air around the CPU more.

[Vince2005]

Ambient temps? I'm skeptical that you actually did better then that with air unless this is very low power CPU or a very cold room. The 2C swing between idle and load also makes me think the CPU temp isn't being read correctly.

Try pointing a fan at the block and see if the temp goes down. I'm betting you're actually reading a combination of the warm air around the motherboard and the CPU temp. I think your air temps looked lower just because the heatsink circulated the air around the CPU more.
I think your right because I have th temp probe between the motherboard and waterblock

[Vince2005]

I finally foundout what the problem was the fans weren't running at 12volts so I switch the pins around and now the fans move a lot of air.I thik the hight temps are caused by the motherboard because I don't have it taped to the bottom it just inbetween the motherboard and waterblock the waterblock isn't even hot.All I need to do now refill it with some distilled water and add some zerex and I'll be set thanks for all the help