X800xtpe TEC block design

[Holst]

Hi all.

I was going to mod a MCW6002 into a TEC block but they seem very expensive in the UK.

Looking in an old box of junk I found a copper skived heatsink ... it looks good for a possible TEC waterblock.

Im not sure on the best way to utilise it, I could do with some ideas if you guys dont mind helping out.

In a TEC block surface area is most important, I need to get water into contact with as much of the internal fins as possible.
Unfortunately I cant see an obvious way of doing this at the moment, maybe you guys can think of somthing clever.

Tools avalable are .. Hand tools .. Bench drill .. Milling machine :D :D - So technically I have quite a few options.
I am also quite good at brazing / silver soldering, but not expert.

[Holst]

Sorry forgott the pics

[ls7corvete]

GO for it, I dont think you need all that height though. Just carve out a chunk of plastic for the top and mount it up ;)

[Holst]

Ok ... this is the first attempt.

The red lines are 1mm thick copper (or brass) - this also covers the top of the block.

The blurred bits on the heatsink are cut back probably leaving 5mm of heatsink at the base (to increase surface area and turbulance at the bends) flowrate should be pretty good as the block is quite tall)

The blue lines are 1/2" copper pipe to be used as barbs.

The coldplate will be attached by 6 bolts allong the lip of the heatsink .. Coldplate will be 4-5mm thick with a step for the X800 core milled into it.
This should allow high clamping pressure. The heatsink base is about 4.5mm thick below the fins and should be rigid enough to stand allot of pressure (the walls and top will NOT be very strong at all, so they cannot be significantly load bearing.

The heatsink will be attached to the card be bolts that screw into the cold plate underside .. these will require insulation on the back side of the card . So I will make a backplate from perspex with neoprene on the card side.

[Holst]

GO for it, I dont think you need all that height though. Just carve out a chunk of plastic for the top and mount it up ;)

Its allready very large, I need to keep the dimentions as small as possible.

Cutting the heatsink down is an option... but im not sure if doing so will GAIN me any performance ... I dont think having the block too tall will hurt me, appart from fitting it into the PC.
With the current design the channels will be about 5/8" X 6/8" - so not far from square.

[ls7corvete]

You do need to keep velocity up and taller fins wont help that.

[Joe Camel]

i dont really know why, (or if there is any advantage / disadvantage to it) but when i looked @ your pic, this design hit me:

[Holst]

Yep, thats more surface area for sure :D

Has anybody else got an oppionion on the height of the fins?

I would prefer to keep them as they are (cause im lazy) but if soembody can give a good reason to shorten them then I can do it.

[Holst]

I think I might drill some holes in the centre of the block (in the channel) and put some copper pins into them as well. To increase the surface area near to the core.
I know this is less important when you use TEC, but the middle of the block will get warmer than the sides, and every bit helps.

[serial_killer]

Yea man that looks great idea. Maybe it would be littlebit easyer that if U don't use whole heatsink. Just put some good coldplate and make little waterblock but that looks great also. Put some results here when U have finnished that thing.

[TTmodder]

if you a really laze skip the copper pins and make it alike the way joe camel drawed. it should be good enough for watercooling block

[jaguarking11]

IF you dont mind 9 barbs then I would do it diferently.

3barbs pushing water down the midle chanel. And 3 barbs on each side exiting the water. The Top barbs could have a jet design () <--kinda like that. And the exausts are regular.

MY thoughts.

Ps you would need a high presure pump to make it work well.