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View Full Version : So.... Whats A Good Reservoir?



Judaeus Apella
01-24-2005, 04:59 PM
Apparently aluminum is a bad idea. I liked the idea behind this one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=59_201&products_id=2529&osCsid=7b99ac827efcaecab418e9ce852c8d88

Its external and connects to a case or anything else you want to, pleasing to the eye, and easy to use. Only problem is that its aluminum.... Im not sure why thats such a problem, but apparently it is. So, does anyone know of a reservoir similar to the concept of that one, but made of a better material? Steel or coper perhaps?

Wstinkbait
01-24-2005, 05:13 PM
Hi again, lol really I not following you this post just caught my eye.

The reason most peeps don't like aluminum is due to chance of corrosion and oxidation but almost all aluminum cooling products are anodized and prevents accrual contact with the metal. Sure it could wear off in about 50 years but I have never had a problem with good anodized blocks. A aluminum rad on the other hand is hardly ever anodized and will corrode. The res only holds extra water and aids you in fill and drain operation so use what you like and looks best as long as the inlet holes are large enough. 3/4 inch NPT or larger is best to prevent spray and formation of bubbles.

Wstinkbait
01-24-2005, 05:21 PM
Im sorry I ment 1/4 inch NPT. Same as on most quality water blocks. Alot of res now days are made for smaller systems and have small holes in them. even if you put a large barb the small hole will cause the "Finger on the garden hose " effect.

Judaeus Apella
01-24-2005, 05:26 PM
This one is 1/2, which is the size Im using.

So then its settled, Im gonna get that one. Thanks for the info! :)

Wstinkbait
01-24-2005, 05:34 PM
Don't confuse the barb size with the hole in res size. That one is G1/4 witch is the European equivent. You will be fine have fun.

MaxxxRacer
01-24-2005, 07:12 PM
wstinkbait that is NOT!!!! i repeat NOT true... the anno wears off in a moth or so.. i know ppl with the reserator and the older swifty blocks where they had it wear off in a VERY short amount of time.. the anno does NOT last long AT All..

Wstinkbait
01-24-2005, 07:59 PM
A month ay ass. You got ripped. I have Swiftech, Danger Den and German made blocks that have run 24/7 for over a year. I just did the 172 watt mod on my mcw50-T and it looks like new. When I lapped the German VGA memory coolers it took for ever just to sand it off. Sure some blocks are going to wear if they were not left in the acid long enough or too low a voltage to get max penetration, but you cant just say all anodization of every block is going to wash off in month. That's BS.

MaxxxRacer
01-24-2005, 08:09 PM
I didnt get ripped.. I dont have any alluminum but a maze4 and i use zerex..

I give any anno 6 months max... but NEVER any longer.. by then it might not be worn all off, but it doesnt matter... a little alluminum exposed and you get a dieletric effect between teh alluminum and coper... basicly there is like a small current between the two and the alluminum molecules seperate and move onto the copper. ITs the way batteries work.

but ask ppl around on the fourms their stores with anno... They will tell you the same.. If you dotn believe me, just look around...

and consider this... Water is incredibly abrassive. It can cut through stone... if you run your system alot with good flow rates, the amount of water movement over the annodizing in a part will start to wear down very quickly. Anno comes off very easy. if you run a knife over it, or any sort of sharp object it comes right off.. its not like it does a whole lot... it essentially just stains the metal.

Wstinkbait
01-24-2005, 08:25 PM
Yea, I hear ya, It's not a good Idea to mix the metals and one should avoid it but I don't have any problems with that and I never put automotive coolant in my computers. (except for chillers) Mainly because it stinks and is green. lol, but also because, unless you need to stop freezing the anti-corrosion properties are best suited for very hot engines running at high RPM. There are many anti-corrosion additives made for low temp multi metal applications that work better than ethylene-glycol

MaxxxRacer
01-24-2005, 10:17 PM
zerex doenst have ethylene glycol.... its a different type. Its not normal atifreeze. in fact its not atifreeze at all. Its made for racing engines to improve cooling and to prevent corrosion.

The stuff has a chemical in it to reduce the surface tension in water and make it less viscous. The water seems more like rubing alcohol after you add it.. Meaning that its thinner... kind of like gasoline or vodka...

specialblend218
01-24-2005, 11:20 PM
There are two types of anodizing regular and hard. Hard is what you want. But even in danger den's case with the maze 4 gpu there hard anodizing lasted only a year or so. Also you can tell that reservoir is regular because it has a good color. Hard only comes in a ugly clear, grey, and black.

Tatewaki
01-25-2005, 06:46 AM
I'd stick with plain old plastic res just to avoid any trouble

To specialblend: are you saying that Maze 4 gpu block will corrode? I was thinking about getting it

specialblend218
01-25-2005, 10:19 AM
I'd stick with plain old plastic res just to avoid any trouble

To specialblend: are you saying that Maze 4 gpu block will corrode? I was thinking about getting it


Nope they used to be made from aluminum and they were hard anodized. Even the hard anodized starting where off after a while. So now they made a revision two, you can get a brass top or acetal top (like acrylic). So now neither top will corrode. Also the new mounting back is sweet on maze 4 gpu. So go ahead and buy it you will like it for sure.