Prometeia install tips...

[_Robbie_]

Lo all :)

Right... my 'topless' Prometeia is sitting at home, waiting for me to finish work... :D

Anyone got any hints or tips for when I put it all together? Anything I should watch out for?

Should I do a 'trial run' with an old un-used CPU before using it on my 2400+? Got a 2200+ and some old Durons knocking around somewhere...

Is it safe to leave it running 24/7? I don't wanna get home from work one day to find it smoking or something!

And is it quiet (loud?!?) enough to sleep with it on?

Just need to get a hacksaw so I can cut a lump out of my Lian-Li case so I can install it now...

I'll post some figures once it's all nicely running :)

_Robbie_
:: I should have a sig?? ::

[Tweaked!]

Originally posted by _Robbie_
Lo all :)

Right... my 'topless' Prometeia is sitting at home, waiting for me to finish work... :D

Anyone got any hints or tips for when I put it all together? Anything I should watch out for?

Should I do a 'trial run' with an old un-used CPU before using it on my 2400+? Got a 2200+ and some old Durons knocking around somewhere...

Is it safe to leave it running 24/7? I don't wanna get home from work one day to find it smoking or something!

And is it quiet (loud?!?) enough to sleep with it on?

Just need to get a hacksaw so I can cut a lump out of my Lian-Li case so I can install it now...

I'll post some figures once it's all nicely running :)

_Robbie_
:: I should have a sig?? ::

Welcome to Xtreme!:D

Enjoy the new prometia. From what I've read, they seem to be fairly reliable. As far as sleeping goes, (who gets any of that anyways???) you should sleep just fine as long as you sleep in the garage;) Might wanna get yourself a dremel tool. Makes cutting cases up much easier and they're relatively cheap. Definitely post some pics for us, maybe some preinstallation, during installation, and after installation. Make sure you take all the necessary precautions to avoid condensation too. lots of neoprene w/ sticky back (or better known as single sided neoprene tape) silicone under the cpu, etc... :toast:

[Its-Freezing]

Hi', and congratulations with your new "toy" :D

The only thing I can think of at the moment, is that you should align you Lian-Li case so that it is level with the rearside of the Prometeia !

And why would I suggest that ? ;)

Let me put it this way, it depends of course on whether you would like to make use of the new Alu Modding kit for the Prometeia, which will shortly be available :cool:

Apart from that it is highly recommendable to follow the instructions to the letter, as that should prevent you from damaging your precious CPU. In particular be sure to check your thermal imprint of the CPU on the Microfreezer before making the final assembly. On the contrary to the Intel CPU's an AMD will not survive a very bad thermal contact with the coolinghead.

Have joy :thumbsup:

Steen

[Hardass]

Thanks Steen:) Robbie keep us informed, mine arrives wed.:)

[_Robbie_]

Tweaked!
Might wanna get yourself a dremel tool. Makes cutting cases up much easier and they're relatively cheap
Have one... unfortunately the cutting disc holder snapped on me when I was installing my window kit :(


Definitely post some pics for us, maybe some preinstallation, during installation, and after installation.
I'll be picking up some batteries for my digi-cam on my way home :D


As far as sleeping goes, (who gets any of that anyways???) you should sleep just fine as long as you sleep in the garage
I sleep with one comp on anyway... just wondering if the noise from 2 will be *that* much too much :) All I can do is wait and see I suppose :)



Its-Freezing
Let me put it this way, it depends of course on whether you would like to make use of the new Alu Modding kit for the Prometeia, which will shortly be available
I ordered the black version, so for the time being it shouldn't look tooooo out of place with the aluminium case :) , but thanks for that anyway :D

Cyas

_Robbie_
:: I should have a sig? ::

[shortcircuit]

OK I've got a few tips since I've had a prommy for a few months now.

I think that the screws that hold the evaporator box down are bottoming out. I used shorter ones and got lower on-die temps. Maybe it's just a coincidence tho.

Watch for xtreme condensation when you first boot the system up and for the first couple hours you run the system. I still get a little condensation on the side of the evaporator box closest to the cpu. I also had to use string-tape around the area where the cooling hose goes into the evaporator box, I had drippy water in that area.

Also on that subject (I assume you never messed with phase change before), don't dissasemble the system right after you ran it. Everything will condensate and you'll have water all over the place.

If using a 2400+ you'll have to cut up the shim that they give you to fit the cpu. A couple resistors were hitting the shim on mine and I had to cut it.

For those that are about to buy a prommy, pick up an extra roll of string-tape when you buy your unit. It's cheap and the stuff has a ton of uses, besides if you have condensation problems like me you might wind up using a lot of it.

My prommy has run 24/7 for a long time with no issues. Just check for condensation every once in a while. And I sleep fine every night with a prometia and vapochill running in the room next door to me.

[CodeRed]

Hi guys,
I too just received my Prometeia. Its just sitting there waiting for me cut some holes in my case and plug her in.

I have been reading around a bit and come across a few references to ppl using thermal grease on the CPU pins and under the socket with the prom. Is this advisable, if so what brand of thermal grease should I use?

Also the braiding on my thermal bus is quiet loose. The install guide recommends that the loose bits be taped up. What type of tape should I use?

Cheers
CodeRed

[KnightElite]

Welcome to Xtreme CodeRed.

You should not be using thermal grease in the socket pins, dielectric grease is what you want. Dielectric grease will fill the holes in so that no air can get in there to cause condensation (& therefore corrosion) on the CPU pins. The grease that I use is this one (http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=81150).

[TheDude]

CodeRed,

For extra condensation protection, you can use DIELECTRIC GREASE on the pins and under the CPU. I used Dielectric Tune-Up Grease by Permatex, available at any Auto Parts Store. I also suggest that you read MrIcees review of the Prommie. It is excellent and guided me thru a perfect install.

[CodeRed]

thanks guys for the quick replies, I think I'll go and order some dielectric grease right now.

[Pedro Rocha]

_Robbie_

Take your time in the setting phase:

As long as the hermetic cell is hermetically sealed, no condensation will form inside it

In the past I experienced some condensation build up inside the hermetic cell, because I have made an error when I mounted the cooler onto the MB.

Now I think I managed to get the hermetic cell completely sealed and have a very good contact with CPU - Idle less than -24º C (the minimal temperature on the motherboard sensor) and at full load never passed -12º C even a 3.700Mhz.

From times to times you should check for outside condensation, touching the various surfaces to feel if they are damp or cold is always a good sign.

I also have some condensation problems on the thermal bus, I contaced Chip-com and they send me FREE OF CHARGE some very good extra insulation tape (see my picture bellow).

The condensation on the hose is basicly an issue of the thermal bus not positioned correctly and seats against the side of the PC-case, where the insulation then turns flat, reducing of course the insulation capability.

If you have this kind of issues contact Chip-con Support and I'm sure they will help you to solve it, as they did in my case.

In my opinion Chip-con has one the best support teams I ever deal in this business. They help me a lot in the past when I have some problems with my Prometeia (even send me mails after dinner or in the weekends, clearly exceeding their professional obligations).


http://pprocha1.no.sapo.pt/PromeLI-IsolationTape.jpg

[AKRedneck]

I just received my unit today. Just curious what you guys are doing on the back of the mobo. I'm not using the included case, and I noticed the plastic cover is obviously too tall to fit under standard mobo standoffs. Is just neoprene sufficient? or maybe some neoprene and liquid electrical tape? Also, I'm assuming that the heater element isn't really necessary unless your in a high-humidity area?

[MrIcee]

The standoffs included with the Enlight case are standard height standoffs as far as I'm aware, my assumption is that the plastic cover would adapt to any configuration. Have you tried a trial fit yet to determine if it won't work?? If it becomes an issue, let JC or I know and we'll pass the word along and see if we can get it rectified:)

Randi:D

[AKRedneck]

Originally posted by MrIcee
...Have you tried a trial fit yet to determine if it won't work??:)

Randi:D

Here's a picture of what I'm seeing. This is a chieftech/antec case. It looks like it's only a 1/16" or so, but then with the sealstring it might be a little bit more. It looks to me like I can either put some additional shims on the standoffs, or just cut out a section of the motherboard tray on the case directly under the socket where the cover fits. I think the latter would be easiest. This is the rear cover, right? Hollow on the inside for the foam gasket..

http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/44d8830f/bc/Prometeia+Pics/__hr_Back+Cover+Interference.jpg?BCigy49AfwyMBIl9

[Its-Freezing]

Originally posted by AKRedneck
I'm not using the included case, and I noticed the plastic cover is obviously too tall to fit under standard mobo standoffs. Is just neoprene sufficient?

Also, I'm assuming that the heater element isn't really necessary unless your in a high-humidity area?

Oups, :eek:

this is realy a dangerous approach. Do not omit the rear cover it is part of the hermetic cell construction ! :cool:

Where ever there is a component soldering there is also an opening in the soldermask, and depending on how well these are aligned with the solderpoints, a potential entry area into the PCB and through that into the cell on the other side.

Vapour pumping effects at -40 degress and the potential vapour diffusion resulting from this are not be played around with. :(

The MB stands should all be 10mm's. If you are using your own PC-case this could be a problem if it is designed to use shorter stands, in that case you will have to make a hole in the MB mounting plate to give way for the rear cover. ;)

Do not operate without the Rearcover under any circumstances !

You're right about the heating element though, which would only be needed in fairly humid operating conditions, or with a CPU with a very small power dissipation like most of he former S-370 CPU´s :D

:toast:
Cheers
Steen Chip-con

[AKRedneck]

Originally posted by Its-Freezing
Oups, :eek:

this is realy a dangerous approach. Do not omit the rear cover it is part of the hermetic cell construction ! :cool:

You're right about the heating element though, which would only be needed in fairly humid operating conditions, or with a CPU with a very small power dissipation like most of he former S-370 CPU´s :D

:toast:
Cheers
Steen Chip-con

Steen, thanks for the input. :) I didn't think it would be a good idea to leave the cover off. I'll just cut a hole in the mobo mounting plate...easy enough..

As for the heater element, I'll leave it off as it's pretty dry up here in Alaska most of the time!..

[CodeRed]

Pedro (or Steen),

That tape that Chip-con sent you looks perfect for the job. Do you know what type of tape it is (materials used). I have a large list of electrical, insulation, neoprene etc etc tapes from an electronics wholesaler and want to find a match for this stuff. They have about 100 different types of tape to choose from and I cant tell which would be the most appropriate.

[Norbert666]

Hi, I'm new round these parts

Just like to say, great thread guys.

I'm just having a last minute read up before I click the "add to basket" button for my new Prommy :D

Going for the topless chiller too. Will have to chop up my Chieftech case.

Seen one or two horror stories, but each time the problem could have been or was resolved fairly simply.

Chip Con seem to have an excellent reputation and support which is encouraging and makes me feel slightly less nervous.

I also saw the thread about people's tips and experiences - brilliant. Just what I was after. Seems to be a good community of OCers here - I think I might stick around!

_Robbie_ - I'd be interested to hear how it's all running now....

Should get mine in the next few days or so (need to convince the missus that I need one and that she has to pay for it first! :rolleyes: )

Norb!

[TheDude]

Welcome to the Forum Norbert666!
:toast:
Hope you stick around:D

[Its-Freezing]

Originally posted by CodeRed
That tape that Chip-con sent you looks perfect for the job. Do you know what type of tape it is (materials used).


It is Armaflex 50x3mm selfadhesive on one side. ;)

:toast:
Steen, Chip-con

[TheDude]

Originally posted by Its-Freezing
It is Armaflex 50x3mm selfadhesive on one side. ;)

:toast:
Steen, Chip-con

Hey guys,

I picked up several feet of this stuff at my local heating and Air store a while back for my old style vapo, sold by the foot cheap. It fixed my condensation problem on the hose just fine.:D It was a different brand, but the same stuff.

[mike.elmes]

Hey....I have never ever used the heating element on any of my Vapochills....with little or no negative side effects. I live in a very dry climate here in Edmonton. Has anyone tryed the prom without the heater and if so does it get a few degrees colder??

[Its-Freezing]

Some additional Install tips.

When first time users (newbies) are to prepare for an installation with the Prometeia, it could be a good idea to first have some reference knowledge of the hardware you are going to use.

Have your PC started up with a standard heatsink and test it for OC’ability, just at nominal V-core voltage. This will give you some idea of what your CPU should be able to cope with at higher than ambient temperatures.

If your CPU is an AMD, it might also be an idea to end up with a reduced CPU speed (under-clocked) at a reduced V-Core level. This will further protect your CPU, if you happen to have a poor thermal contact on your first installation.

Turn off the system with these settings, and prepare your installation of the Prometeia according to the instructions in the manual, be sure to read these instructions carefully, so you don’t miss an important point.

After having performed a test upstart without any power to the MB, and verified that the cooling system goes below –40 degrees at no load (typically between –43 and –48 depending on 115V/220V model), you are ready to start up with the MB and CPU connected too.

Please be sure to wait a couple of minutes before restarting the system (otherwise the Compressor might not be able to start, and you will end getting an Error 3 and 4, and a very hot compressor).

If the PC turns off within a couple of seconds after powering it up, you have most likely made an assembly error, and a bad case of thermal contact with the CPU. Only the MB health monitoring functions are able to turn off the system so quickly. Do not try to restart the system again, to find out if what you saw was really happening, otherwise you run a great risk of damaging your CPU permanently, take it instead apart, and inspect your mounting, and your thermal imprint on the evaporator.

If you are using an Intel P4, recheck in particular that the screws holding the mounting bracket in place (from the rear cover side) are firmly in place holding the mounting bracket firmly down against the MB on it’s feet, otherwise the Microfreezer cannot be held properly in place.

If you are using an AMD processor, recheck that the bracket around the socket is level with the MB, and that none of it’s legs are standing on an SMD component, otherwise the Microfreezer cannot be seated correctly.

In both cases, make sure that the thermal bus has been shaped and placed, so that it does not present a major pressure in one direction.

With the system started and running, you now increase your clock speed and V-Core and compare with your previous results without the Prometeia. If they are not better than before, the most likely reason is still that of bad thermal contact, in which case you perform above-mentioned steps.

If they are better, you can continue increasing these.

Note until now we have not payed much attention to the CPU temperature as measured by the MB, this is because a lot of MB’s simply are not able to measure temperatures at that level reliably anyway, they may even report a possitive temperature instead of a very negative one ! If the CPU temperature reported by the MB (BIOS) is either steady or lowering when applying higher V-core and speed, this is a significant sign of an incorrectly reported CPU temperature !

As a final note please observe: That although it might be possible to increase OC’ing the CPU further with a higher V-core, Chip-con does not recommend a V-core above +20% for prolonged 24/7 operation.

If you want to try with a higher overvoltage, you should at least take the precaution of using an ATX-power conditioner, for added protection, preventing the CPU from being applied such excessive overvoltage until it is well below the freezing point.

It is typically in the start-up process with temperatures rising to over +30 degrees (up to +50 in the core) until the cooling kicks in, that the combination of an overly excessive V-core together with the relative high temperature will kill a CPU.

Hope this information will be helpful to all the newbies in this field.

Kind regards
Steen, Chip-con

[AKRedneck]

Originally posted by Its-Freezing
Some additional Install tips.


..........In both cases, make sure that the thermal bus has been shaped and placed, so that it does not present a major pressure in one direction..........

Kind regards
Steen, Chip-con


Steen,

Could you explain the shaping of the thermal bus...specifically where the best places are to apply some force for permanent deformation without damaging anything...

I've notice that when I put the micro-freezer in the approximate cpu mount position, there is quite a side load on the micro freezer from the thermal bus. I know part of the thermal bus is made of some kind of flex tube, however, where is the rigid tubing that I can put some permanent bend? I don't wanna break anything..

Thanks. :)

[donny_paycheck]

First of all, this thread is awesome. Thank you very much for your help, Steen.

My question is simple: Where can I find a mechanical drawing of the Prometeia cooling unit? I'm looking for measurements of the top part in particular, maybe including bolt patterns. The reason for this is because I'm choosing a case for it and I want to make sure it fits well. I'm looking at a Lian Li PC65.

Also, when will the mechanical adapter to aid in bolting a topless Prometeia to Lian Li cases become available in the United States?

[_Robbie_]

Update time...

I've yet to cut a hole in the motherboard tray to accomodate the back plate, so the motherboard is sticking out a little on the top right - I need to get a new cutting disk holder for my Dremel I guess.

One thing that would have helped is a drilling template for the bolt holes for the topless Prometeia - taking the sides off and using a pen to mark the holes on the bottom of my case was probably the trickiest parts of the whole thing.

One question to those that have one - should the cooling head get hot? Mine's pretty warm to the touch, not sure if that's correct or not. No sign of any condensation as yet, so, touch wood, the seal is doing ok :)

Also not entirely sure on CPU temps... tried it on an Asus A7N8X and an Epox 8RDA+ and the CPU temps seemed high = +12 C on the Asus and currently +19 C on the Epox (though the Epox monitoring tool is giving me a system temp of +19 C as well - and it's currently +26 C in this room). At the moment I'm putting this down as an nForce thing, as I've noticed other people not getting wholey accurate temps on them. Compressor temp at the moment is -33 C. Anyone have an idea of how much temp is gained between the compressor and the CPU?

My XP2400+ is currently running 2400mhz (15 X 160 @ 1.825 V (Prime95 falls over with less voltage, though the comp is stable with less - left it running Prime95 for 6 hours when I went out today - max temp show was +26 C) on the 8RDA+, with 2x256mb Samsung PC2700 (mem BIOS settings to aggressive IIRC) and Leadtek Ti4600. I need to get some proper tweaking done yet, but here are a couple of benchmark results (I'll sort some screenies out once I'm happy with everything)

Sandra:
Memory Bandwidth:
RAM int Buffered: 2429
RAM Float Buffered: 2315

CPU Arithmatic:
Dhrystone: 8866
Whetstone 3578

CPU Multimedia:
Integer: 13186
Floating-Point: 14107

3DMark 2001 SE: 13417

Next step is to get it running at 15 x 166 and to get some better RAM (the Samsung isn't happy at going much over 166 :( )


EDIT

Got it running at 15 x 166 (167??) @ 1.95 (eek! :eek: ), also run a full set of benchies with screenshots, and seeing ast it's 3am, I'll crop 'em down an post 'em in the AMD forum sometime after I wake up :)

Not touched the graphics card yet... not 100% sure what settings it's on tbh.

RAM is on aggressive settings in BIOS.

For those that can't wait tho...

Sandra:
Memory Bandwidth:
RAM int Buffered: 2572
RAM Float Buffered: 2477

CPU Arithmatic:
Dhrystone: 9365
Whetstone 3769

CPU Multimedia:
Integer: 13908
Floating-Point: 14834

3DMark 2001 SE: 13665

No noticable change in temps either, which has me a little concerned.

_Robbie_ :banana:

[sharpbw]

The compressor temp sounds right. I don't have either of those boards, but a KD7, and wasn't too sure about my temps either until I loaded the latest MBM and was able to monitor the internal diode of the chip. My board was saying 12C, the diode says -15C. A huge difference.

[_Robbie_]

Benchmarks @2500mhz up here:


_Robbie_

[mike.elmes]

Hello all,

I have put the back plastic piece on and have the front half on the mobo...but the metal cut-out doesn't line up with the P4 exactly. Do I have the wrong hardware kit with my p4??That should line up better than that. Plus the metal should sit flush with the pcb of the cpu shouldn't it??

[mike.elmes]

bump...

[Its-Freezing]

Originally posted by mike.elmes
Hello all,

I have put the back plastic piece on and have the front half on the mobo...but the metal cut-out doesn't line up with the P4 exactly. Do I have the wrong hardware kit with my p4??That should line up better than that. Plus the metal should sit flush with the pcb of the cpu shouldn't it??

No there is no other P4 kit, and since the core is sitting in the center of the heatspreader is it well covered. The actual position of the CPU in relation to the mounting holes in the MB vary from board to board depending on make and model.

The metal AND the mounting bracket must sit straight with the MB ! If it doesn't chances are that you have not screwed the rear cover tight together with the front mounting bracket.

It doesn't show quite on the picture, but be sure you have at least the inner part (the part that sits inside the hermetic cell) of the regulator IC covered around the edges (incl. the end of the IC) so that no air can find it's way into the cell, otherwise you end up with a bath-top for you CPU :eek:

From the picture it is clear that you have not covered the outside end of the IC, so if the inside end is not sealed off either you have a path underneath the IC !

Steen

[MrIcee]

Steen:)

If I'm not mistaken it looks to be assembled upside down....but I may be wrong. I would remove it and turn it 180 degrees and see how it lines up. I am not a P4 expert but can tell you on an AMD setup the bracket would be on the opposite way. Let us know how you make out:)

Randi:D

[mike.elmes]

Hi Randy and Steen.....thanx for the reply.


I have tried rotating by 180 degrees, and it is even more misaligned that way. I just wondered if somehow in the p4 kit I had been given the top half of the AMD kit??

[mike.elmes]

How much smaller is the core under the heatspreader of a current 2.66 C1?? I can remember seeing a pic in PyLsy'S REVIEW that shows what looks like an AMD core... so they are a fair bit smaller than the heatspreader, which means I should be ok on the alignment.??

[Its-Freezing]

I couldn't quite make sense of what was up/down or right/left on the picture in Mike's previous posting (as the picture only showed such a small part of the MB), however it is important to remember what way the coolinghead must be positioned before mounting the mounting bracket and the Clips, as the Clips can only sit in one direction to fit the coolinghead.

The mounting bracket on the other hand can be rotated 180 degrees (take out the Clips and put it back again 180 degrees round) Having done that the assembly can be put back on with the bracket turned 180 degrees leaving the Clips in the same direction. This is how to change the allignment of the Coolinghead, but from the picture allignment could only get worse.

If on the other hand the Clips is already turned in the wrong direction (you might be right actually Randi), causing the coolinghead to go the wrong way round too, just turn the entire assembly round as it is, and see how that fits.

I hope it makes sense what I am writing here, but if not have a look in the user manual on page 12, where it is explained in detail including a couple of illustrations too (hmmm, except I wrote that too, so it might not make an awfull lot of difference ;) ).

Cheers
Steen

[mike.elmes]

Steen, I took this shot to show how badly the alignment is. Also the metal piece doesnt sit all that close to the top of the cpu.
The mobo is IT7 MAX. Many others are using this board. Is it me or does the alignent look off. I'm in no hury to set up if the positioning is wrong. I did try rotating the top half and it was way worse.

[sharpbw]

Hey Mike, can you rotate the whole unit and give us that picture? I know you said it's more mis-aligned, but it would be a good reference.

As far as the AMD mounting, the metal piece is the same for both kits. On a AMD it attaches directly to the Socket using the sockets clips. The black piece is different and just sits around the socket to effect the seal. Yours defiently looks like the P4 one.

[mike.elmes]

Sharpbw, you and mr icee, and it's freezing are all correct. The top plastic piece was 180 degrees off... and after undoing the gooey sealstring mess and rotating the plastic peice and the metal insert I have what looks like a workable alignment....

The first way I had it looked workable but the cooling head wouldn't mate properly with the plastic it's suppose to seal.

The evaporator is offset a bit so had I looked at it first I might have noticed. Thanx all for your help....results to follow.;)

[Its-Freezing]

Originally posted by sharpbw
Hey Mike, can you rotate the whole unit and give us that picture? I know you said it's more mis-aligned, but it would be a good reference.

As far as the AMD mounting, the metal piece is the same for both kits. On a AMD it attaches directly to the Socket using the sockets clips. The black piece is different and just sits around the socket to effect the seal. Yours defiently looks like the P4 one.

Yes, it was upside down, as it turns out from the last picture.

If it the coolinghead had been twisted round to fit this, it would have been sitting upside down, and you would have had unsatisfactory temperatures especially under load , and a much colder thermal bus, moreover possibly some ocasional bumping sounds from the compressor, when drops of unevaporated refrigiant finds way into the inlet chamber (NOT the cylinder !!!).

Good luck
:toast:
Steen

[CodeRed]

Originally posted by Its-Freezing
Yes, it was upside down, as it turns out from the last picture.

If it the coolinghead had been twisted round to fit this, it would have been sitting upside down, and you would have had unsatisfactory temperatures especially under load , and a much colder thermal bus, moreover possibly some ocasional bumping sounds from the compressor, when drops of unevaporated refrigiant finds way into the inlet chamber (NOT the cylinder !!!).

Good luck
:toast:
Steen

Steen,
I get the "bumping" sounds from my compressor and it scares the §§§§e out of me. Have I stuffed up my installation?

The evap head is also very hot, guess at > 40 deg C.

System Specs:
XP2400+ @ 2506 MHz @ 1.95V
Epox 8K5A2
220V Prom
Evap temp -34 to -29, ambient 23 to 27 deg C
CPU temp 12 to 26 deg C (stupid in-socket thermister)

Cheers
CodeRed

[Its-Freezing]

Originally posted by CodeRed
Steen,
I get the "bumping" sounds from my compressor and it scares the §§§§e out of me. Have I stuffed up my installation?

The evap head is also very hot, guess at > 40 deg C.

System Specs:
XP2400+ @ 2506 MHz @ 1.95V
Epox 8K5A2
220V Prom
Evap temp -34 to -29, ambient 23 to 27 deg C
CPU temp 12 to 26 deg C (stupid in-socket thermister)

Cheers
CodeRed


Well now, you don't describe if this is without any load at all, or with an idle load only, or by normal operation, which makes an awfull lot of difference.

Entirely without any load it can easily happen, as the flow into the evaporator is slightly higher than the load from only ambient can keep evaporating entirely. Therefore the evaporator runs full and unevaporated drops of refrigiant frequently returns into the input chamber infront of the actual compressor.

If it happens on a system with an idle load, and the evaporator is turned the right way round, it can either indicate bad thermal contact with the CPU, having the same result as described above, or it can indicate a slightly overfilled system.

In both cases you don't need to worry about the compressor, but in the last case of course worry about the CPU.

If it also happens on a system under medium to heavy load with a good thermal contact, and your CPU is overclocked and also slightly overvolted, well then your system is most likely overfilled, and it would probably be a good idea to contact Chip-con support, to get some advise as to what to do in this case.

Steen

[CodeRed]

thanks.

I contacted tech support (with a lot more detail abut my system). They suggested remounting the head with more pressure (two more spacers). I will try this on the weekend.

BTW this happens both at idle and at full load. It even happened (although not frequently) when running at stock speeds and volts.

** EDIT **
The Chip-con rep told me to use AS3 instead of the supplied Artic Alumina. Also the instructions on the web site say to put the thermal compound on the CPU core, whereas the installation manual (an d reviews) say to put it on the cooling head. Whats the consensus on the best method and thermal compound?

[KnightElite]

CPU core is for sure the best way to apply thermal compound.

[donny_paycheck]

Has anybody lapped the cold plate? I'm wondering if it'd be a good idea. It's smooth but not quite Swiftech smooth.

[muzz]

All I know is I am seriously looking into buying 1 of these bad boys.... and TBO I have a weird feeling cooling my cpu with a refridgerator...... heheheh.. then again I rememebr when I read about water cooling....I said to myself " thos fkn guys are nuts putting water in their boxes.." gee how times change..:D :D
Frank if you own XTW I'd rather you get the sale...... probably right after XMAS. Sick of fighting thermal problems( cant OC that high stable with just water- umm ice bucket.. no ty..... ), thought about pelts, and doesn't seem to me like you get the result considering the work/risk.

[therecka]

Is this a good thing to do when I´ll put my prom togheter
http://www.swiftnets.com/socketsealing.htm

[therecka]

Is this necesary??

1, Silicon around the sockel

2, Neoprene inside of the sockel

and/or

3, Grease in the pin-holes

[KnightElite]

Sealing the socket with dielectric grease is highly recommended. That prevents condensation from forming on the pins, which would corrode them, and nuke your CPU. You can buy cheap dielectric tune up grease at pretty much anywhere that sells automotive products.

[donny_paycheck]

The Alu kit to mount the Prometeia to Lian-Li cases will be out in late January according to an email I just received from Chip-Con.

Was mounting the case a tricky part for any of you guys? Enough to justify the Alu kit?