Athlon 2200 HELP ME plz!

[Godfather]

Processor: Athlon 2200+ Tbred
Motherboard: Asus a7v8x
Video Card: G4 Ti4600 Leadtek Winfast
Memory: 512 MB Crucial pc2700
Hard Disk: WD 80 GB
Case: Thermaltake xaser
CDROM/DVD/CDR: Plextor 40/12/40 Sony DVD 16/40
Power Supply: Enermax 350 watt
Cooling: Coolermaster hhc-001 retro fitted delta 92mm fan at 119 cfm

I unlocked my processor using the rear defogger kit on the 5th l3 bridge. And when I reboot in windows I get a hang up from time to time. Like my monitor doesnt recieve a signal. I cant figure out why it works half the time and the other half it doenst work. It does a hard boot from off position fine but rebooting from windows is a paradigm. Please help me for gods sake! should I unlock all my l3 bridges?

[OPPAINTER]

Godfather,

Welcome to Xtreme :toast:

Did you try the chip before connected the bridge??

OPP

[Godfather]

Yep tried it first wihout unlocking it and ran beautifully at 1800 of course my BIOS autodetects it at a standar 1800 or 2200 dependant apon FSB settings but when I unlock it of course it detects it at several variables the most common as 550 next up is lik 6something and then 920 but as you guys said before when you unlock the l3 5th bridge it does a 550 which is what i have now but it has a hard time rebooting sometimes I have done it 3 times now the first two didnt work very well but the last time (third time) I get it to reboot 90 percent of the time but sometimes when i reboot the monitor goes to the "orange light" which is seamingly telling me it is receeiving no signal. My thoguht was to up the voltage to increase the current running through the chip since its a defogger kit not a metal conductor It might need A higher voltage to run at. Im sure cars have a setr voltage running through the defogger system. But I only get the problem about 10 percent of the time now.


OH and thanks for the welcome:) I jsut read also that the voltage running through defogger systems is usually 12 v! ??

[OPPAINTER]

By reading the way you did 3 times and got better and better I hate to say it but I think you just have to do it again untill the bugger kicks in correctly. Doubt the upping the voltage thing will work.

OPP

[Godfather]

Well from a technical standpoint lol lets jsut say my frist two attempts where like looking at the real person named Mona Lisa COmpared to the now attempt which is some where in the park of HOT BABE. My first attempt was a U shape connection my second time was a super glued pit but I didnt shave the pit down far enough and got a goofy looking trace my third one was done to utmost perfection I even noticed that the pit wasnt fully filled lol but it is now. Well it wasnt fileld after I shaved it I think I lifted some material out of the pit when I shaved it. Neways The trace is flat and looks like a little Brown chip if you will on the ceramic top. I upped the voltage to 1.75 since the 2200 runs at a 1.65 and havent hadded a problem yet with rebooting. I am gonna guess Either

1. I had to break in the current flow using the material by continiously rebooting and setting the volt high and low.

2. Up the voltage since the standard voltage rating for a repair kit I believe is around 12 V not 1/12 of that (ruffly) SO maybe by incurring a larger voltage the current has less of a friction rating to tackle I believe even though the material might be "HIGHLY conducive" it also resembles the characteristics of a highly frictionable substance. By using this "said" higher voltage Im allowing it to surpass those boundaries and utilize its full strength by overcoming the friction of the substance. THis is of course mere speculation and if i dont get it to work 100 percent of the time im gonna go slaughter some sheep and turn their cotton wool into a silver pen to lay a conducive trace :) but until then it seems to be working any ideas would be appreciated.

Its better to nip this in the bud and then have less speculation from frequent users fo these forums about the same problems.