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View Full Version : KODE's light Chiller project completed.



KODE
07-26-2004, 09:00 AM
Hi fellas,

After a couple of weeks doing some research, I finally ended my new "Light Chiller" Project. The goals were:

1- Change the condenser fan to reduce noise. The original one was old, big and really loud, so I ended up putting a single 90mm PSU fan, worked really well.

2- Add a thermostat to the Chiller so I could control the water temps to something aroud 0c. This was planned to reduce the Extreme insulation required to the whole system, including the hoses/Pump.

3- Change the Pump. I was using an IWAKI magnetic pump that has a lot of torque but was slow and noisy. Not to mention It was the only pump I found that was capable of running at -35c water temps at the time.

4- Remove the Water Mixer. At a certain Temperature the evaporator at the bottom was completely frosted creating a single block at the bottom of the reservoir. This was reducing the cold transfer to the liquid so to prevent this I added a mixer to keep the water moving at the bottom. Mixer was now eliminated.

5- Due to the previous requireriments I wanted to run the system with pure water to optimize the heat transfer. Now there's just a small amount of ice around the Evaporator that comes off and melt when the compressor switchs off.

I'm really happy with the results: CPU is Running at 1.9GHz (8x235) - 1.45Vcore at 1c. Not to mention the system is now really really silent.

The only info I'm really missing is the water temps since I don't have the Fluke thermometer anymore.

All in All :toast:

KODE
07-26-2004, 09:03 AM
The complete loop.

KODE
07-26-2004, 09:07 AM
The Pump half-submerged. Notice the thin ice layer forming at the bottom.

KODE
07-26-2004, 09:08 AM
Another Pump view.

KODE
07-26-2004, 09:09 AM
Top view.

KODE
07-26-2004, 09:09 AM
Insulation around the Water-Block.

OCme
07-26-2004, 10:36 AM
wut kinda mag drive pump r ya using now in place of your iwaki? btw you'll get better temps if ya get yuor pump out of your res and put it inline

KODE
07-26-2004, 10:53 AM
Pump is a Sarlo Better 2000 rated for 2000 liters per hour. Other fellas that uses this pump said it will reduce it's life drastically, so no in-line for me, at leat not with this pump ;)

PS: when you say in-line do you mean run it out of the res?

OCme
07-26-2004, 11:38 AM
Originally posted by KODE
PS: when you say in-line do you mean run it out of the res?

yes... wutever wattage that pump is rated @ is the amount of extra heat that it is dumping into your chiller reservoir. ie. a mag 5 pump moves 500 gph and is rated @ 45watts, by taking the pump out of your res it will get colder & the benefit will get passed along to your cpu... it shouldn't reduce a pumps life to use it inline if it was designed for that purpose.

OCme
07-26-2004, 11:45 AM
Originally posted by KODE
Pump is a Sarlo Better 2000 rated for 2000 liters per hour.

i just did the conversion from liters to gallons for your pump and 2000 LPH is equal to 528.344 GPH so i would be willing to bet that your pump is very similar to the mag 5 pump when it comes to the amt of heat it is putting into your chiller res.:eek:

KODE
07-27-2004, 03:19 AM
Originally posted by OCme
yes... wutever wattage that pump is rated @ is the amount of extra heat that it is dumping into your chiller reservoir. ie. a mag 5 pump moves 500 gph and is rated @ 45watts, by taking the pump out of your res it will get colder & the benefit will get passed along to your cpu... it shouldn't reduce a pumps life to use it inline if it was designed for that purpose.

Hmmm... I know for sure this pump is designed to run submerged and it's rated at 30W.

afireinside
07-27-2004, 02:15 PM
Very nice chiller. What CPU?

KODE
07-28-2004, 03:42 AM
Thanks afireinside, CPU is a Barton 2500+ Mobile.

Bought a Digital thermometer yesterday and Water temps are going from -2c to 1c.

At 2GHz 1.45V/ CPU varies from 4c to 8c average while Priming. Pushed him to 2806MHz at 2.0V / 16c@load, but PSU started to smoke...:slobber:

PS: temps were taken with MBM5

OCme
07-28-2004, 05:45 AM
Originally posted by KODE
Hmmm... I know for sure this pump is designed to run submerged and it's rated at 30W.

ok, well that's 30watts that could be dissipated into the air vs being put in your chiller, that's all i was saying. i like your insulation job... very neat! btw have you thought of putting a wb on your vc?

KODE
07-28-2004, 05:57 AM
Hi OCme, thanks for the tip :up: I understood what you were trying to say, but It will reduce the pump lifetime, that was the info that other people using this same pump provided to me.

About WC the Video card, I may be doing it in a near future, all depends on time now ;)

Regards,

KODE.

Tonic
08-01-2004, 12:26 AM
Greets, but can you shoot few photos of chiller's inside?

KODE
08-01-2004, 10:03 AM
Sure. HereĀ“s LINK (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=39103&highlight=KODE) a to the inside of my Chiller before the mods, scroll down a bit ;)

kayl
08-01-2004, 06:29 PM
nice chillier dude, so the power supply started to smoke hey.
should put some nicotine patches on it and ask it to quit:stick:

what type of power supply you using?:toast:

i use to use my pump submerget too, i found it easier one less thing to worry about it just becomes part of the chillier. only 2 pipes exiting the system.
another good thing i found you can take advantage of the filture in the pump to get rid of crap circulating in the system.

kayl
08-01-2004, 06:37 PM
also its using r12
for a future project are you thinking of changing the refrigerant to a better one, should get some better temps.

KODE
08-02-2004, 03:39 AM
Hi kayl, I'm using a TTGI 350SS.

About future project :):

Last week I met a guy that owns a small A/C store near my house. After a little talk he told me he can build the system for me, I just need to show him the project and R404a will be no problem for him :toast:

kayl
08-02-2004, 04:03 PM
sweet
that will give way better temps.

dinster
08-09-2004, 11:09 PM
kode, i have a few questions..

what waterblock are u using now ?

ur mobile can only do 2.8ghz @ 2.0 v ?

KODE
08-10-2004, 08:32 AM
Hi dinster,

I'm using a copper WB that I designed about a year ago. At the time I just found 3/8 silicone hose so I designed the block to match the hose internal width. That's why my water flow is so low (3/8 barbs it's killing it, 5mm internal diameter).

I just have just done a quick test with my mobile because my PSU didn't handle the extra load (A terrible burning smell starts with a higher Vcore) so I never had a chance to really test it, but yes for the time I needed 1.96V (2.0V in BIOS) to reach 2800MHz. Why do you say "only 2.8GHz @ 2.0V"? Do you really think this is bad? From what I gathered in forums people (average) are not doing much better than that and I'm saying 24/7 prime stable not just load windows and took a screeshot. I've seen 2.9Ghz and 3.0GHz + but all Prommy cooled. Maybe I have a bad chip :) but I'm happy the way it is :D Let's see waht happens when I buy a new PSU.

dinster
08-11-2004, 06:57 PM
the way u insulate ur mobile is really really neat.. ;)

mind giving me some link for guides u follow ?

do u think DD Maze 4 is great for this water chiller ?

i dont have time to design my own block :D

ow yeah.. 2.8ghz @ 2.0v @ 24hrs prime stable is real great :D

KODE
08-12-2004, 03:58 AM
Hi dinster, glad you liked it :)

Some insulation methods below:

HERE (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=515733#post515733) and HERE (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=38783&highlight=insulation)

I did some optimizations on the insulation around the Socket, will take some photos at home in a few hours when I strip apart my WB (basically the rear area where there's no neoprene just that grey soft rubber), check back soon ;)

About dangerden: I personally never used one, but I just hear great things about it, you can't go wrong with this one.

Regards,

KODE.

KODE
08-12-2004, 09:08 AM
Optimized insulation around socket:

KODE
08-12-2004, 09:10 AM
Whole Motherboard:

KODE
08-12-2004, 09:11 AM
Neoprene apart:

kayl
08-14-2004, 09:19 AM
if you went direct die you would see a better increasue in OC
with temps near -C's should gain 100-200MHZ i wreckon
3GHZ in your sights

KODE
08-16-2004, 04:12 AM
Hi kayl,

3GHz would be awesome :D I'm just saving money to start my DD project.

P.S. After some tweaks I managed to get a even lower Delta T with this chiller:

Water temps: -1.5c (temps took with UEI digi thermometer)
CPU: -1c

I know the CPU isn't producing much wattage but is such a low Delta T possible? or MBM is reporting a bogus temp?

dinster
09-04-2004, 05:13 AM
Originally posted by KODE
Hi kayl,

3GHz would be awesome :D I'm just saving money to start my DD project.

P.S. After some tweaks I managed to get a even lower Delta T with this chiller:

Water temps: -1.5c (temps took with UEI digi thermometer)
CPU: -1c

I know the CPU isn't producing much wattage but is such a low Delta T possible? or MBM is reporting a bogus temp?

hi kode, would u mind explaining about "direct die" ?

bh2k
09-04-2004, 10:46 AM
Direct die is when the compressor goes to an evaporator and cools the cpu directly. The chiller in this thread instead has the compressor cool down liquid to be pumped through a block on to the cpu so it's in-direct. You can check more about direct die in the Phase change section of the forum.

dinster
09-05-2004, 01:25 AM
Originally posted by bh2k
Direct die is when the compressor goes to an evaporator and cools the cpu directly. The chiller in this thread instead has the compressor cool down liquid to be pumped through a block on to the cpu so it's in-direct. You can check more about direct die in the Phase change section of the forum.

thanks for the info, but modding the evaporator to "act" as a waterblock is not easy right ?