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View Full Version : Reservoir = A must?



KPJ
07-10-2004, 02:08 PM
As the headline says:

Is it really neccessary with a reservoir?
I have a T-fitting, where I can fill the system up.

But does it affect overclocking running without a reservoir?

Karnivore
07-10-2004, 02:09 PM
Originally posted by KPJ
As the headline says:

Is it really neccessary with a reservoir?
I have a T-fitting, where I can fill the system up.

nope not a must...

More a personal preference, some like'em, some don't...

John Cena
07-10-2004, 02:19 PM
Resvoirs tend to have cooler temperatures, like by 1 c ( Unsupported statement, take with a grain of salt).

But It's a matter of personal preference.

sandman
07-10-2004, 02:34 PM
It won't effect temps at all, it will just take longer for them to reach equilibrium.

If anything, it's restriction would hurt temps.

berserk
07-10-2004, 08:49 PM
Reserviors look great if you have a bay res with some nice lighting.

Ranger2992
07-10-2004, 09:14 PM
I personally like resevoirs because they allow the option of adding ice for short benching sessions.

saratoga
07-10-2004, 10:14 PM
A res is nice for filling. Really nice. But it doesn't change your temps and you don't need it.

AdvModDev
07-10-2004, 10:27 PM
Originally posted by KPJ
I have a T-fitting, where I can fill the system up.

Kinda OT, but how does a T-fitting work? I'm not familiar with the technique; how would you fill and, more importantly, bleed your system by using a "T"? Also, how would you close off the T once you're done filling?

KPJ
07-11-2004, 01:02 AM
I got the technique from a danish wc shop.

Click at the pictures on this site, and you get the idea how to fill and close it.

Picturespictures:
http://www.coolerkit.dk/product.asp?product=118&page=1

This is not the set, Im gonna get.
My set is this:

Dangerden TDX A64 1/2"
D-TEK Pro-Core (with 120mm Papst fan)
Hydor L20 (later on Swiftech MCP-600)

AdvModDev
07-11-2004, 01:47 AM
All right, I get it..connect a piece of tube to the tee and close it with some type of "tube cap". But where do you get one of these caps? No online water cooling shop I've been to carries them.

But this technique is very clever...solves the "res restriction problem" and the extra piece of tubing from the tee can trap the air molecules. And on top of that, a tee costs at most $2. The only downside I can see is that filling the system will take longer and will require a funnel.

If you're not into the "neon light" thing, I think it would totally make sense to stay with the tee approach.


D-TEK Pro-Core (with 120mm Papst fan)

FYI, I talked to DTek a couple of days ago and found out that their newest version of the Pro-120 is smaller than the older version. The new version is actually the exact same size as their no longer manufactured JR-120:

Old Pro-120: 6” x 7.5” x 2”
New Pr0-120: 5.5" x 6.38" X 2" (same as JR-120)

I asked them what the performance difference was and they admiited that the old version is slightly better.

KPJ
07-11-2004, 02:20 AM
Thank you for the info.

It's the Old Pro-120 (6” x 7.5” x 2”), I'm getting. :)

About those "tube caps".... The shop don't actually sell these, but since I'm buying some other things (waterblock, tubing ect.), the owner agreed to throw in some caps. :)

I don't want to spend money on a reservoir, cause it's like 50$ here in Denmark. Better to save the money and get some better equipment. :)

Lithan
07-11-2004, 05:23 AM
I've used several different kinds of caps.

1. 1/2" barb to 1/2" npt thread - 1/2" thread Industrial gas line one way valve.
-Pricey
-tiny hole so filling is very slow
2. Same setup but use a largemouth watervalve
-easiest fill
-still pretty pricey
-very bulky
3. 1/2" copper pipe to 1/2" female threads - 1/2" maled threaded plug.
-almost as easy to fil as the watervalve.
- smallest by far
- cheapest by far

AdvModDev
07-11-2004, 11:44 AM
Hey Lithan, would something like this work?

1/2" Hose Barb - MIP Adapter
http://images.lowes.com/product/048643/048643067424.jpg?wid=158&cvt=jpeg

1/2" PVC FIP Schedule 40 Tube Cap
http://www.homedepot.com/cmc_upload/HDUS/EN_US/asset/images/eplus/640730-wc_1.jpg

I don't know anything about plumbing standards but would the threading on the male adapter and female cap be the same? I'm guessing the "M" in MIP stands for male and "F" in FIP stands for female but they could just be incompatible standards or something. If it works, then it would be great cause the adapter goes for 70 cents at Lowes and the cap is 43 cents at Home Depot.

AdvModDev
07-11-2004, 11:35 PM
Originally posted by AdvModDev
But where do you get one of these caps? No online water cooling shop I've been to carries them.

Well, as if the webshops were responding directly to me, the good folks at CoolTechnica has started carrying them as of today:

Tee Cap Kit - Black $3.50
http://cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/Blk_Tee_Cap-125.jpg

http://www.cooltechnica.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Tee-Cap-Kit-BLK&Store_Code=C

Gogeta
07-12-2004, 05:46 AM
Originally posted by Lithan
3. 1/2" copper pipe to 1/2" female threads - 1/2" maled threaded plug.
-almost as easy to fil as the watervalve.
- smallest by far
- cheapest by far

Gracias mi amigo :D

jinu117
07-12-2004, 01:14 PM
One thing lot of people forgot to mention is that reservoir will slow down the water. Pump just need to work harder to move still water vs already moving water. Thus, it not only is restriction of another 2 barbs on the way also like having another not so restrictive block in loop. If you don't mind T, I say stick with it. You will only see higher temp.

ColdFlare
07-12-2004, 03:52 PM
To People who use a bayres:

How do you guys drain your system? You can't take the whole water cooling out because the bayres comes out thruogh the front.

Do you guys like having all your water cooling inside the case or outside?

Karnivore
07-12-2004, 03:58 PM
Originally posted by ColdFlare
To People who use a bayres:

How do you guys drain your system? You can't take the whole water cooling out because the bayres comes out thruogh the front.

Do you guys like having all your water cooling inside the case or outside?


Well I don't have a watercooled rig atm, but when i did I prefer all inside, or all (except blocks) in an external case. Draining has always been done the same way for me, pull pump outside case and remove line, drain into bowl/bucket, etc.. Don't see as the draining is much different with, or without a res..

ColdFlare
07-12-2004, 06:59 PM
Originally posted by Karnivore
Well I don't have a watercooled rig atm, but when i did I prefer all inside, or all (except blocks) in an external case. Draining has always been done the same way for me, pull pump outside case and remove line, drain into bowl/bucket, etc.. Don't see as the draining is much different with, or without a res..

Oh alright cause I'm just starting to redo my system with a res now. I got a bayres.

I use to drain my system by pulling he radiator, pump and block outta my system. Then putting it in a bucket and unhook everything. Now I have to drain it in the case cuase the bayres doesnt come out with everything else.