LiquidFrostbyte

[chilly1]

Chiller Finally completed with controller, settable from -40 to +100F, R507 Bottm end temperatures are at 250W At rated temperature of -35 it is 335W. Pull down for a 1 gal rez with 20 oz in the HX is about 1 hour from 95 degrees to -30F. Finish is Lacquer on vinyl. Controller is a Carol control similar to the prometeia machI with chilly1 programming (Manfactured for Sporlan)

[S_I_N]

looks sweet nice job

[tylerhskate]

that thing is a beaut, nice work, excellent painting

[JSU]

wow!!!!!! very nice compact chiller

[Minnyboy]

One h3ll of a sweet thing there:slobber: :slobber:

Who needs a Vapo or Mach II when there's this floating around??

Congrats chilly1

Cheers,
Minnyboy

[Sphinx]

Nice! And paintig, very nice!

[Gary Lloyd]

Very nice work, Chilly1. :toast:

[koensa]

more pics plz


espacialy of the reservoir with the coil in it


thank you much

[chilly1]

No coil in the rez. Tube in tube HX...

[novagamer]

Originally posted by chilly1
No coil in the rez. Tube in tube HX...

Can you elaborate? :)

[Redwolf]

Just what he said.. Tube in Tube heat exchanger.

example: 1/2" outer tube with a 3/8" inner tube. The outer tube has the water/xxx mix. Inner tube has the refrigerant. Working in a counter flow.

[kayl]

very very nice
hey do you have a paitent on the name design

[chilly1]

No patent these are off the shelf for about 70.00 us(tube in tube HX) and this one I am running inside out to get a higher flow rate for the liquid. (100% alcohol) or do you mean the Liquid Frostbyte name? We have a copyright on that.

[Jeff]

Originally posted by chilly1
We have a copyright on that.

Nice one Chilly! :up: You(and Gary) are making me want to try a chiller and I really don't need to. :)

[morbidj]

My bad if this sound some what rediculous but are you going to produce and sell these units? If so what is your cost?

[OCme]

This chiller is magnificent chilly1 and it exemplifies your talent in the art of man-made cold... kudos my friend! :toast:

[chilly1]

Originally posted by morbidj
My bad if this sound some what rediculous but are you going to produce and sell these units? If so what is your cost?

Possiably, cost is yet to be determined currently only in a 1 up model.

[kayl]

Originally posted by chilly1
No patent these are off the shelf for about 70.00 us and this one I am running inside out to get a higher flow rate for the liquid. (100% alcohol) or do you mean the Liquid Frostbyte name? We have a copyright on that.

yeah i ment copyright on the names,
its a really cool design, i like.
did you design that one in paint or get someone else to do it for ya

[chilly1]

I did the whole thing in photoshop, The xs logo is close to those on the site I had to draw it from scratch as the image is 600 dpi and 74 inches by 74 inches.

I toy with graphics, I designed the potato chip bags for Vegas Chips

[UnderWare1213]

LOL awesome!

[blinky]

chilly you are also a wonderful photographer

:)


more kittah pics

[OCme]

Originally posted by chilly1
I designed the potato chip bags for Vegas Chips

From high performance chillers to artery cloging junk food, a man of many talents... LOL :p:

[HawainPanda]

freakin COOL!...

[gkiing]

one word.. Wow!

Very professional design chilly1, I'm sure that more people will want to commision you after seeing this work of art.

[kayl]

chilly is that controller the one that you were testing a few months ago, i remember reading about it when you first got it a coule of months ago, i see it must be working good for ya

[chilly1]

Controller works great.
Chiller shipped today....

[ultron5]

Very cool! :cool:

[MightyOne]

Very cool indeed ... ;)

Could you post the dimensions of the whole unit as well as the power consumption of the compressor, please?

I might get around to building a chiller like this when I'm just sitting around in my maintenance unit after the first three months in boot camp ...

[chilly1]

10"W, 21"L, 12H as near as I remember, shipped it already. The compressor is a 1/3 hp r507 compressor it draws 2.3 A @ 115V 60HZ. on stard and will decrease from there at lower temps.

[gkiing]

How much do you charge for prommy style chillers?

[chilly1]

gking ygpm

[OCme]

Yes, It's here! "My precious" is finally here! It arrived in first class Chilly1 style yesterday and was sitting on my front porch when I got home from work.

[OCme]

The unit came packaged very well... Thx Chilly1 for the time you spent packaging it.

[OCme]

Sweet baby Jesus, she sure is pretty!

[OCme]

Fugger, a special thanks to you for the incredible job you did on the graphics. The picture I'm submitting does not begin to do it justice, the detail really looks much better up close.

[OCme]

This is it's resting place at the moment... I'm still waiting for the second package that's due in two more days. That shipment will contain the reservoir and pump that Chilly1 put together for me. Will post more pics later...

[kayl]

looks like Christmas at you place,
i was just about to post here asking who was the lucky bidder on that piece of art
what plans do you have for it, what blocks you going to run, cpu gpu maybe even a nb?

[OCme]

Originally posted by kayl
what blocks you going to run, cpu gpu maybe even a nb?

Thx Kayl... In the next few days I'll be prepping a White Water WB for my cpu and a Swifty MCW50 for my GPU.

[S_I_N]

OCme you may want to consider a more freer flowing cpu block. like a maze4 or one of the swifty blocks. I'm using the maze4 on my chiller and mcw50 on my gpu -20cpu -30gpu on -40 fluid. Also if I might add I'd set the chiller up on a stool or something to get it off the floor. I found once I got my comps off the floor my dust issues were cut down emensly to almost no dust at all. Otherwise grats on the buy. I'm totally stoked with the one I got from Gary

[OCme]

Originally posted by S_I_N
OCme you may want to consider a more freer flowing cpu block. like a maze4 or one of the swifty blocks. I'm using the maze4 on my chiller and mcw50 on my gpu -20cpu -30gpu on -40 fluid.

I think the blocks I'm using will be ok... I know the WW three barb impingment WB will be a little difficult to insulate, but I feel like it's doable.


Originally posted by S_I_N
Also if I might add I'd set the chiller up on a stool or something to get it off the floor.

It's setting on the floor for the time being, I'll probably end up setting my PC on top of it Like a promie when I put it all together, but I haven't decided for sure yet.

Props to you S_I_N on having purchased Gary's #3 chiller... His chillers, like a fine wine, keep getting better over time.

:toast:

[S_I_N]

cool beans let us know what temps are like ......on the block I was more referring to the flow chars IMO lol nothing is hard to insulate :D The WW is known to be a tad restrictive.

[OCme]

Ordered my 2.8GHz Prescott last night from Newegg... Hoping to get one with decent stepping...

[froudeg]

Very nice :)

Altho i wanna know what happened to this:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=484801

I.e. what happened to the compact prommy sized -100c cascade cooler?

[OCme]

Originally posted by froudeg
Very nice :)
I.e. what happened to the compact prommy sized -100c cascade cooler?

Liquid Frostbyte chiller was never going to be a cascade... I think that's anuther 1 of Chilly1's projects he has going on over on the vaporphase change section of the forum.

[OCme]

Prescott arrived early... SL79K Malaysia hope it's a gooden;)

[oc_nightmare]

when u assemble the system keep us posted w/ pics, k?:D

nice chiller u got there:D

[Reflex1]

wooo ...that thing looks pimpy

those new SL7 steppings shud clock nicely with it ;)

[zabomb4163]

Originally posted by OCme
Liquid Frostbyte chiller was never going to be a cascade... I think that's anuther 1 of Chilly1's projects he has going on over on the vaporphase change section of the forum.

its call minifrostbite
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=34603&perpage=25&pagenumber=1

[OCme]

here's a teaser... put 3 gal of S-L-X denatured alcohol in reservoir to test the cooling loop out. After 2hrs it pulled down to 5F/-15C. Heavy frost on the return line

[chilly1]

Thats about 1200 btu's Glad to see the copmpressor is pulling full capacity...


Insulate that line!! Remember Insulate, insulate and when you are done insulate....

[OCme]

last night I masked off my Asus P4P800 deluxe MB

[OCme]

and my ATI Radeon 9800XT VC

[OCme]

I placed scotch tape over serial numbers... then I gave front & back sides of both MB & VC 3 coats of Kon Form Coating got mine @ time motion tools. I allowed 1hr dry time between each coat and then 24hrs to cure. That should seal things nicely...:)

[OCme]

i've had a little trouble with my pump/res, but i should hopefully have this issue corrected by this weekend... i'll keep everyone posted

[S_I_N]

Originally posted by chilly1
Insulate that line!! Remember Insulate, insulate and when you are done insulate....


Yo Chilly1 man I can believe you forgot to metion insulate insulate insulate. Bro ur slipping. :D

[OCme]

since my chiller will not see temps in excess of -25F i choose a pondmaster 500GPH pump made by danner mfg. to move the liquid in my system. this pump seems to be popular here on xtremesystems forums because it is seal-less. it is a bit of a ill mannered brute making more noise than most other inline pumps, but insulation should help quiet things down and give me better temps as well.

[OCme]

i decided to insulate the pump in a styrofoam chest... the sides and bottom and lid are all 2.5" thick

[OCme]

here is a pic before i insulated everything. i decided to go with an in line T instead of a reservoir for two reasons 1) quicker pull down times due to less fluid to chill, & 2) it makes the system easier to seal from alcohol vapors that might escape.

[OCme]

first i insulated everything with rubatex and armaflex (foam rubber) then i tightly wrapped black duct tape around all the insulation.

[OCme]

here is a pic of everything assembeled before i hooked it up to the chiller. what i didn't show is me filling the styrofoam box with spray foam and letting it sit over night before putting the lid on and sealing it up. it took 1.5 cans of great-stuff (spray foam insulation)

[OCme]

here is the pump box hooked up to the chiller for a test of the cooling loop. the out of chiller is connected to the intake of the pump just befor the inline T & the out-let of the pump is connected to the inlet of the chiller.

[OCme]

chilly1 directed me to the magic knob on the PEV inside of the chiller so that i could tune the charge.

[OCme]

after a little tweaking i was able to achieve -23F. i will post actual unloaded pull-down times tomorrow & loaded temps and times after i get the system all together.

[OCme]

make that -24F or -31.1C...

[kayl]

love the insulation job on the pump dude truly xtreme :toast:

[OCme]

WARNING... WARNING... WARNING... WARNING!!!!!
DO NOT INSULATE YOUR PUMP LIKE THIS!!!!

i turned off the chiller last night but left the pump plugged in to see to what level the liquid would end up at in the inline T. i knew it would expand some as it warmed. i did not plan on what happened next. the pump, being so heavily insulated, melted down and cavitated the spray foam around it. i suspect that this was due to the cooling loop not being able to dissapate the heat the pump produced with the chiller off.

[OCme]

here is a pic of the melted down pump. i'm damn lucky i didn't burn my house down!

[OCme]

here is another one

[OCme]

anyone have any suggestions on where i should go from here? :confused:

[froudeg]

Good God! - how the hell did that happen?

If i'm reading things right here, you just turned off the chiller - but the pump carried on pumping the coolant round through the chiller hx and back......if that was the case, how on earth did the pump generate so much heat. I know it was insulated, but with liquid flowing through it constantly - the temperatures surely shouldnt have hit high enuf for it to melt itself into oblivion.

I spose, with the chiller, the coolant lines and the pump itself insulated, there isnt much chance for the heat of the pump to get out.....altho the pump doesnt generate that much heat - it should have just levelled out (insualtion isnt perfect and that big a cooling loop should have allowed enuf of the heat to escape).

Whats more likely to have happened is the coolant hit say 50celcius...and the pump rotor stuck or something (the rotors get soft with hot coolant and can jam) - then the pump burnt itself into oblivion

[OCme]

Originally posted by froudeg
If i'm reading things right here, you just turned off the chiller - but the pump carried on pumping the coolant round through the chiller hx and back......if that was the case, how on earth did the pump generate so much heat.
Whats more likely to have happened is the coolant hit say 50celcius...and the pump rotor stuck or something (the rotors get soft with hot coolant and can jam) - then the pump burnt itself into oblivion

the coldest the chiller reached was -24F/ 31.1C... i don't think things got colder when the chiller was turned off.... the pump is rated @ 45 watts of heat, i think the cooling loop turned into a heating loop not being able to dissapate the 45 watts of heat that the pump produced, but i could be wrong

[chilly1]

Warrentee? :D doubt it. Glad to see your ok. Does that pump have openings where air is supposed to flow throgh the motor? Pumps need to have some form of cooling to them so they don't over heat the 45W was probably being dissipated through teh cooling loop until it gort warm? What was the temperature of the loop when you found the motor burnt? Usually these pumps will have a thermal overload to prevent this from happening you may want to ask the manafacturer if that is the case and then if it does why did the thermal fail and not open? Your 2 for 2 on pumps now. Good thing it didn't reach the ignition point of the methanol.

[OCme]

Possible solutions so far:

-thermal-couple to act as a shut off the pump

-shut off the pump with chiller

-run pump in reservoir to dissipate the heat it produces... i was trying to stay away from doing this because it would add heat to the cooling loop, but it could be my best alternative

-run the pump inline but only insulate the in/out portion of the pump agonist condensation allowing the heat to be released and dissipated by the rear portion of the pump



does anyone have any other suggestions?

[froudeg]

I would go with the thermal cut off - but then again i always go with electronic solutions as im an electronics engineer lol

If you do go with a thermal cut off - use one of the miniature bi-metallic trip switches, you can get these to trip at various temperatures. I get a lot of my parts from www.farnell.com (im in the uk so i dont know if they have em where u are), but im sure RS etc would.

Dont use one to directly cut the mains to the pump off tho (ie dont use it inline with the live/neutral wire to your pump). You dont want any mains parts exposed where you have fluid. Use the switch to cut off an external 12v mains relay which then cuts off the pump etc.

[OCme]

Originally posted by chilly1
Does that pump have openings where air is supposed to flow throgh the motor?

yes, there are four small holes on the back of the pump housing


Originally posted by chilly1
What was the temperature of the loop when you found the motor burnt?

don't know exactly... i shut the chiller down @ 9:30pm and went to bed... i woke up to the smell of alcohol fumes at 4:00am in the morning and a melted down pump. the pump also melted the foam rubber around it and cavitated the spray foam insulation around it. the S-L-X alcohol got hot enough to melt the outlet of the pump off.

[froudeg]

I'd definately go with some form of thermal cut off!

As you know, methanol isnt the nicest of substances - and even if you sort out the overheating problem by another means - it still means that in the event the pump jams for some reason, you would still get a burn out, which with methanol is quite a hazard!

[chilly1]

The holes are ventillation I think? Damn! lucky the alchol didn't ignite! Maybe just use the styrofoam to insulate the front of thepump and leave the back open. Of use the swiftec pump and insulate only the pump section and only insulate where condensation is an issue.

[OCme]

Originally posted by chilly1
The holes are ventillation I think? Damn! lucky the alchol didn't ignite! Maybe just use the styrofoam to insulate the front of thepump and leave the back open. Of use the swiftec pump and insulate only the pump section and only insulate where condensation is an issue.

ok... this sounds like a good option. i went back and checked the mega chiller we use to chill our CAT Scan machine here at the hospital and that seems to be the way they insulated the pump that drives it. the back portion of the pump motor is exposed to ambient air while the pump inlet and outlet portion of the pump is heavily insulated with rubatex. does anyone else have another idea... at this point i am open to suggestions...

[OCme]

Originally posted by froudeg
I'd definately go with some form of thermal cut off!

As you know, methanol isnt the nicest of substances - and even if you sort out the overheating problem by another means - it still means that in the event the pump jams for some reason, you would still get a burn out, which with methanol is quite a hazard!

point well taken froudeg... could you provide me with a link to one you would recommend?

[S_I_N]

well I havent encountered that. But I shut my pump off after shutting off comp and chiller I let pump run 30second to a minute. After shutdown. I'm glad like you said it didnt burn the house down. Good nose lol. If that were me I'd of thought I had some on my skin somewhere and was smelling that lol.

[Gary Lloyd]

Bottom line: Never insulate a motor.

Even setting aside the safety issue, why would you want to add 45W of heat load to your cooling system, when much of that could be dissipated to the air?

[T@nker-xXx]

yes
a pump with a chiller don't freeze :)

[OCme]

well they returned my pump at the local pet store yesterday, and gave me another one... i'll give the cooling loop another try this weekend insulating just the eye of the pump and leaving the back where the vent holes are open to ambient air. i will also be looking into adding a thermal couple to the system to make things safer.

[OCme]

Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Bottom line: Never insulate a motor.

Even setting aside the safety issue, why would you want to add 45W of heat load to your cooling system, when much of that could be dissipated to the air?

point well taken gary...

[OCme]

Originally posted by S_I_N
I shut my pump off after shutting off comp and chiller I let pump run 30second to a minute. After shutdown

chilly1 recommended hard wiring the pump to the chiller relay which seems like a good idea & would this be one simple solution...

[chilly1]

Then in the relay control loop add a thermal O/L from the pump so the entire system will shut down on a pump overtemp.

[OCme]

Originally posted by chilly1
Then in the relay control loop add a thermal O/L from the pump so the entire system will shut down on a pump overtemp.

is this the thermal O/L fuse you were thinking about or should i be using something different & do you think 58C is a safe enough cut off?

http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_148.html

[froudeg]

Yep, they should do the job.

Im unsure if that type is designed for mains (120v/240v) usage as no data is given there...altho it's best not to use them to directly cut the mains to the pump anyway - having 'live' parts near a possible source of liquid leakage is a bit hazardous. I would use it to say cut the 5v/12v supply to a mains relay that powers the pump.

[kayl]

Originally posted by OCme
well they returned my pump at the local pet store yesterday, and gave me another one... i'll give the cooling loop another try this weekend insulating just the eye of the pump and leaving the back where the vent holes are open to ambient air. i will also be looking into adding a thermal couple to the system to make things safer.

bad luck dude
but good luck that they replaced it hey

what mix % you using in that chillier

[OCme]

Originally posted by kayl
what mix % you using in that chillier

i'm using S-L-X denatured alcohol that i got at my local home depot... about $10.00 a gal

[OCme]

i'm presently working on an active cooling solution for the motor of my next pump that i'll be testing out this weekend... all you modders out there should like this one!

[Ssilencer]

Danner mag 5 and 7 gets really hot, I think that the only suitable for wc or chilled liquid it's de mag3 if you want to try danner's.
MCP600 has better P-Q relation, or maybe a Eheim 1250. Iwaki's one are the best, but overpriced.
I dont think that you need to put your pump in the liquid, you dont want to dissipate over 45watts more. Just put it outside and insulate hosses or use another brand of pumps.

[OCme]

Originally posted by Ssilencer
Danner mag 5 and 7 gets really hot, I think that the only suitable for wc or chilled liquid it's de mag3 if you want to try danner's.
MCP600 has better P-Q relation, or maybe a Eheim 1250. Iwaki's one are the best, but overpriced.
I dont think that you need to put your pump in the liquid, you dont want to dissipate over 45watts more. Just put it outside and insulate hosses or use another brand of pumps.


they took back the mag 5 pump that at the pet store and gave me another so i'm going to try that one again. the 45watts of heat will be dissipated by a fan that that uses 110v and looks similar to a computer fan that i got from my local radio shack for $19.00 . i will be attaching the fan to the rear of the motor and wire it into the cord to the pump since it only draws 10watts. the fan should dissipate both heat and condensation from the rear of the pump forward... the only part of the pump i'll be insulating is the eye where the inlet and outlet are and about 1 inch of the front of the pump. it should work similar to a heat sink. i will post a pic tonight when i get home

if this doesn't i'll work i'll look at buying one of the iwaki pumps... you’re right those r some nice pumps!:)

[chilly1]

Almost ready for the "smoke test" huh?

[OCme]

Originally posted by chilly1
Almost ready for the "smoke test" huh?

:p: LOL... almost my friend... the back of this pump gets hotter than i would like to see it get so i got to thinking, what does an overclocker do when something gets hot??? slap a fan on it! it just might work.

[OCme]

here is a pic of the moded pump. the fan is the exact same size as the back of the mag 5 pump. i used a little JB weld on the ends of the screws to hold it to the back of the pump

[OCme]

here is a nutter one from behind

[JSU]

lookin gr8

[oc_nightmare]

hehehe i did the same to my cable modem:D
i dont like to see anything getting too hot... well most of the things:smileysex

[WeStSiDePLaYa]

LOL i cant believe they actually replaced the pump. did they ask what the hell you were doing to make it melt?

[morbidj]

haha, no kidding but right on that you got a new one.

[OCme]

i got a new res today; it's a igloo 2gal cooler from walley world

[OCme]

i tried to make a bulkhead fitting but i couldn't get it to seal very well... so i went to Patco, a liquid fittings specialty store here in town & bought a 5/8"x5/8" male JIC bulkhead fitting & 2 - 3/4" ID o-rings. this will give me a liquid tight seal for fluid transfer. cost of the bulkhead fitting and o-rings was $5.97

[OCme]

here is a pic of the bulkhead fitting installed

[OCme]

and a perfect fit on the inside

[OCme]

here is a pic of the pump attached to the res before insulating everything. this is the one place in your cooling loop that u can use a larger connection for better performance

[OCme]

i want to incorporate the pump & res as part of the chiller so i got to thinking of a way to extend the platform on the back of the chiller. i went to home depot and found these 2 green 9x9 drainage greats on sale for $1.67ea, the guy said they discontinuing the green ones :cool:

[OCme]

i will be joining the two drainage greats with JB weld tonight and bar clamping them together. then i'll bolt through them on each end in the middle. this will make the platform for the pump and res to sit on behind the chiller... hey chilly1 you'll know where i'm going with all this what do ya think?

[OCme]

Originally posted by WeStSiDePLaYa
LOL i cant believe they actually replaced the pump. did they ask what the hell you were doing to make it melt?

LOL :p: yea... i told her it musta been defective or something... she said you poor dear would you like to try another, i said ummm... ok! :D

[chilly1]

Looks good, if you look in the back of the chiller you will see another one of those 9 inch wide grids.

[OCme]

Originally posted by chilly1
Looks good, if you look in the back of the chiller you will see another one of those 9 inch wide grids.

yea at first i was gonna attach 1 of the drainage greats to the one u put in the back of the chiller but it came up a little short. two of them together gave me just the right distance w/ the fan & pump sitting up under the shell over tube HX. the outlet and the res r the only parts that will be sticking out the back, about 10” from the back of the case. the platform has been glued & bolted & bar clamped in position. i will spray-paint it black to match the chiller case tomorrow after the JB weld sets up tonight.

[Ssilencer]

I dont think that this fan make any diference, just putting the pump out of the water without insulation will work.
If the pump did not have enough power to flow the liquid it will melt or just break again, you cannot disipate anything with plastic.
I used to had a danner mag 7 in my last WC system, 4 hours working and you cannot touch it without burning your finger.
I think the mag5 dont go as hot as the 7, use denaturated and it will do it well.

[OCme]

i leak tested the pump and the res last night and the mag 5 pump would not seal at the face and when i tried to tighten the screw where it was leaking the post cracked. at this point i am through w/ the mag 5 pump. i'm not going to return this one though because the woman at the pet store was so nice about taking the last one back that i'm going to eat it and chalk it up to experience. i just had too much trouble w/ this pump trying to run it inline. if you want to dump it in a res and use it as a submersible pump it will probably work ok, if you don't mind the extra heat it will add to the cooling loop. the good thing is that the bulkhead in the res works great! and the fan did keep the pump cool...:)

[OCme]

i had an eheim 1048 pump from an old water cooled rig lying around so i hooked it up. it only moves 158 GPH but then it only generates 10 watts of heat & this pump is quiet... so quiet that i have to get my ear down next to it to make sure it is running & the best part is no leaks!

[S_I_N]

sweet kkep us posted with pics and updates. Looking good so far. I had to reinsulate my block and lines saturday was getting some dripps here and there od condensation. should be better now I noticed a 3c drop in temps :)

[OCme]

Originally posted by S_I_N
sweet kkep us posted with pics and updates. Looking good so far. I had to reinsulate my block and lines saturday was getting some dripps here and there od condensation. should be better now I noticed a 3c drop in temps :)

sounds good S_I_N... i hope i get mine going soon, maybe by this weekend if the mastic i ordered comes in this week

[OCme]

here is a pic of my eheim hooked up and running of my back patio for a leak test... i went to move the pump a little and the face plate on the front of the pump almost came off. i really don't think this pump is very safe for what i'm using it for. even though it is quiet it has seals at the inlet and outlet and the face comes off too easy & really doesn't have the enough head pressure to move liquid through the chiller loop and two blocks with the force i would like to see it have.

[OCme]

that left me with one pump left to try that i had on hand, my swifttech MCP600, i think this pump is really better suited for what i'm trying to do... there is plenty of head pressure to push the alcohol through the cooling loop and 2 WB's, there r no seals at the inlet & outlet and it's very quiet almost as quiet as the eheim 1048 pump, and best of all it is 12v only requires 5-10 watts to operate. i leak tested it last night and it passed with flying colors. i tested it with my computer power-supply, but today i'll be going to radio shack and buying a 10-12 watt power supply just for the pump so i can operate it separate from my computer.

[OCme]

here is the 12v 1000ma power supply i got @ radio shack for $18.00. i'll be using this to power my swiftech mcp600 rev2 pump.

[OCme]

i also found some sturdy shelving that they were closing out @ my local sears for $9.97... what a deal!!!:D this will make it easy to get @ everything & fine tune the chiller to load. i had to notch out the back shelf for the entire platform to fit. you can see i have also insulated the pump & the line going from the outlet of the pump to the inlet of the chiller w/ rubatex.

[OCme]

sealed the back of my mb tray with two different materials 3m scotchfil & cork insulation tape.

[OCme]

i first put down a layer of 3m scotchfil, pinching the sides together as i went. then i put down a layer of cork insulation tape going the opposite direction, pinching the edges together as well.

[OCme]

the build up of these two layers gave me exactly the right heigth i needed to fill this area & seal out condensation.

[OCme]

i turned my attention to the back of my asus p4p 800 deluxe mb next. to seal the back of it i used 3m vinyl mastic pads.

[OCme]

the pads have a peal off back that adhere to the back of the mb nicely. they also have interlocking edges to help seal out moisture. i went a step further by using electric tape of all the seams.

[HELLBOY]

NICE WORK--I CANT WAIT TO SEE IT "chilling"

[gouda96]

OCme, did you buy the 3m products and the cork tape at a local store or online?

[OCme]

Originally posted by gouda96
OCme, did you buy the 3m products and the cork tape at a local store or online?


i purchased them brick & morter thru an elecrtical supply house here in town... i had to special order the scotchfil & it took a couple weeks to get that in, but they had the cork tape & the vinal mastic pads in stock.

[OCme]

i ended up removing the 3m vinyl mastic pads from the back of the mb before installing it on the mb tray, it was just too high w/ it on there for everything to line up... i saw where someone used it to seal the back of a mb, but i guess that was an air system... i finished the job by sealing the edges w/ seal string & got a great seal. i'll post a pic of the mb sealed up tonight, won't be long now...

[OCme]

after i mounted the mb onto the tray i trimmed around the outside edge w/ a razor then put seal string around it.

[OCme]

tonight i'll be sealing the inside & outside of the cpu socket, the outside of the agp socket, and the base of any transistors that r close them with some dow corning conformal coating in a syringe

[OCme]

w/ the conformal coating dry, i started filling the holes in the back of the mb tray w/ cork tape. i cut little plugs then worked them into the holes in the mb tray, pressing out around the edges

[OCme]

i had the 3m vinyl mastic pad left over that i pulled off the back of the mb earlier before i mounted it & i didn't want to waste it

[OCme]

so i stuck it to the back of the mb tray & taped the edges w/ e-tape

[OCme]

then i carefully drilled the holes for the wb bracket w/ a 9/64" drill bit

[OCme]

i end up w/ a booger of insulation & metal shavings on the end of the drill bit w/ each hole drilled that i pulled off before drilling the next hole

[OCme]

time to start thinking about wut i'm going to do about the wb's... wut a insulation night mare... irregular surfaces, 3 barbs on the cpu block & poorly lapped as well

[OCme]

this is wut i used to lap my wb's... in order, 3 kinds of wet/dry sand paper 600, 1000, & 1500 grit, then i finished up with brasso.

u want to do this on a flat surface... i wet 600 grit sand paper to start... turning the wb often & applying even pressure as i made circular motions. make sure to rinse off the sand paper often while lapping... do the same with 1000 & 1500 grit... i then used an old cotton towel with brasso on it on my kitchen counter to polish the wb... finished up by polishing w/ a clean dry cloth.

[OCme]

this is wut the wb's looked like before i started

[OCme]

Well... later today i got a little unexpected visit from a Intel quality control specialist, he liked the way things were looking so far & said to keep up the good work! this is wut the wb’s looked like after i finished... i also decided to lap the bottom of the hs to my thermaltake tiger that i'll be using on the northbridge... & yes, for all that want to know that is an authentic Oscar Meyer weiner whistle!

[oc_nightmare]

very nice job with the mobo insulation and with those block lapping ;) keep it on!
cant wait to see the chilled system on da move :D

[OCme]

thanx oc_nightmare

[OCme]

i found that a serrated butcher knife worked best for cutting foam rubber smooth & straight... just lay the knife on the rubber & gently pull back gentley letting the blade do the work.

[OCme]

then i took a razor & removed the inside portion to inset the wb

[OCme]

i then screwed the top & bottom retaining plates together w/ the foam rubber in the middle

[OCme]

i used aquarium silicone to fill the top cavity around the 3 barbs... i filled this area w/ silicone until it was flush w/ the top of the upper retaining plate, then smoothed it out.

[OCme]

i cut a piece of 1" foam rubber to fit the top, then centered it on top of the wb barbs & pressed down hard on the foam rubber to make an impression of where the barbs were... i then carefully cut away the inner circle of ea of the 3 barb impressions

[OCme]

i knew i needed an air tight seal so i went to our local heat/air supply house & purchased special adhesive today made just for foam rubber... be careful when using this stuff, cause once it dries the foam rubber is permanently bonded & there is no readjusting it or taking it apart.

[OCme]

i placed the foam rubber cap on top of the wb & then painted the outside edges of the cap w/ the rubatex adhesive. i then wrapped the sides of the wb w/ rubatex foam tape pinching the edges of the sides & the cap together as i went, i went around 2 times... it really turned out better than i thought it would.

[OCme]

pic of bottom

[OCme]

i felt like i needed to seal the bottom retaining plate of the wb agonist condensation so i applied liquid electrical tape to the bottom surface... the brush that comes w/ it isn't worth a rat’s butt for doing fine detail work in my opinion so i used a small paint brush to apply it.

[OCme]

i then sealed the middle portion of underside my P4 2.8GHz Prescott cpu w/ clear nail polish, being careful not to get any of the nail polish on the pins.

[kayl]

:toast: :toast:
very nice job on the insulation man
so now you have a kick a$$ chillier and a matching insulation job
i cant wait to see the oc result
good luck

[OCme]

thanx kayl... i've been following yur thread on the dd that u made from a frig as well

:toast:

[OCme]

Rodney, a good friend of mine @ the VA where i work did me a favor today & cut up my Asus hs that was on the northbridge of my mobo... he made the four 1/2" X 1/2" sq hs that u see on the left for the mosfets on my vc... i'll attach these w/ thermal adheasive that i ordered from danger den.

Thanks Rodney! :)

[OCme]

made adjusting knob for the PEV by warming up the end of a piece of tubing & stretching it around the knob of the PEV over the weekend... i'll be using this to adjust the superheat of the chiller once i get it under load.

[OCme]

here it is finished... i drilled a 1" hole in the face of the shroud & put a rubber grommet in it w/ a bolt epoxied in the end.

[Epsilon]

nice job :toast: :)

[gouda96]

You have done such a beautiful job, it was so moving that I started to cry :toast:

[chilly1]

Good job. I will need to use that for the next chiller I build , with your permission of course.

ocme YGPM

[m0nk33y]

beautiful insulation OCME, and nice work Chilly1, like always :)

[Farbror]

WoW i realy LOVE thta insulation job on the waterblock !!! :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber:

[OCme]

thanks for all yur support guys... i got the WB's mounted and double sealed & all the other insulation is finished as soon as i get the defective temp probe replaced i'll be ready to see wut this chiller is capable of doing...

[TyphooN]

This thing looks awsome.. Chilly1, will you be selling these things? I really would like to buy one, as I could easily place it under my case or next to it, after proper insulation of course. How much would the going price be would you think???

[JSU]

Um you should pm him.

[TyphooN]

Alright, you don't have to be rude about it.

[OCme]

here are a few pics of the video card insulation

[OCme]

top shot

[OCme]

here is the card in it's final resting place seated in dielectric grease

[OCme]

here is a shot of the back of the MoBo tray... i had some left over seal string that i molded over the exposed ends of the nuts & bolts

[OCme]

here are the WB's before making the connections & insulation

[OCme]

here is everything connected & insulated

[OCme]

i fired that her up & it came on without a hitch... i'll be posting some benches in the next few days...

[chilly1]

Beautiful job.

[OCme]

thank ya there chilly1. of course none of this would have been possible without you... for all the countless phone calls & emails & time that you spent making my xtreme chiller dream come true, i would like to thank you my friend!:)

[oc_nightmare]

awesome job with that insulation ;)
you two make a great team :D


any loaded temps?
keep it up ocme and chilly1, i envy ya... all i know is to do ugly and heavy chillers not those piece of art like yours ;)

[chilly1]

I am going to stickie this thread as it has some very good ideas put forth by ocme for insulation of water blocks and motherboard.

[OCme]

Thanks Chilly1...

[gkiing]

Just in case anyone noticed this is for sale in the classifieds

[rick_fx]

I'm surprised its still there for sale

[gkiing]

Most people just dont have the money sitting around to buy it I guess.. its a good chiller.

[rick_fx]

I know, chily1 makes some great stuff. (and the finish looks great)

[gkiing]

yeah he did a nice job.. I wouldnt mind buying a window applique or something with the xs logo.

[chilly1]

WE are in the process of a redesign of the logo.. And we may come out with logo gear if everyone is interested....

[gkiing]

yeah, like something that you can put on the side of your case like on liquidfrostbyte.

[Waus-mod]

I have a question OCme,

I am also insulating a white water, Can you please tell me how to mount the cpu block,

You have the bolt that go's tru the white water, under the block you have a nut, where do i have to place the rest of the nuts? and the nylon rings etc?

[gclg2000]

Where are the OC results and final temperatures?

[OCme]

I got away from benching for the time being... I burned up my @ the time $500.00 9800XTvideo card so I pulled the chiller off and went to water cooling. I have a 2.8GHz prescott running @ 3.7GHz & I am happy with that...

[gkiing]

I got away from benching for the time being... I burned up my @ the time $500.00 9800XTvideo card so I pulled the chiller off and went to water cooling. I have a 2.8GHz prescott running @ 3.7GHz & I am happy with that...

Cool :hehe:

[iljs]

Wow, great job. Really nice insulation. Tons of pics, and amazing chiller chilly1 :)

[Onycho]

Just a quick question...isn't a 2gal resevoir a bit on the big side? Wouldn't it be more efficient with something more like 1-2 liters?

Also, what is the more efficient heat exchanger:

Tube in Tube?

Tube in Shell?

Plate?

[gkiing]

I think tube in tube (eg 3.8" inside 1/2") is more efficient than tube in shell.

[skate2snow]

First, I'm the owner of LiquidFrostbyte.

And the difference between a bigger or smaller res is just the time it will take to get to the desired temp, once it is there, it will be able to handle a bigger heat load for longer....

[chilly1]

skate is right a bigger rez means that it will take longer to pull down. It will give you a longer time to "overdrive" the system like run it over its real capacity by pumpint the liquid fron the rez into the HX and then to the computer. it is already cole and then it will get cooled a little more. And it will give you a buffer to play with for those high power benches.

[Gimmpy224]

man that is awesome 0.0

[Bloody_Sorcerer]

ohhh, the thread necroism! this thread's only about 9 months dead.

[Gimmpy224]

lol i seem to have a problem doing that lol

[skate2snow]

This thing is awesome anyways :P.... Although I dont own it anymore...

[chew*]

This thing is awesome anyways :P.... Although I dont own it anymore...

yep it lives with me now and has been modded to drop coil. details of it's continued existence can be found here
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=75254

[Jonathan_S]

The spray foam maybe partly soluble in hot alcohol.... It could be the cause of some of the cavitation of the spray foam.

[SexyMF]

I used a 9litre reservior and could get 15minutes on 30 minutes off swinging -10 to -20C coolant (at full load). I do recommend a large reservior unless you want to run the chiller all the time.

[epox4life]

Thats some crazy insulation.

[jcw122]

None of the attached images are working for me anymore, is anyone else having this problem?

[cruise]

Could something like this work in conjunction with 8800GTX waterblocks from danger den?

How would you protect them from condensation since they cover most of the card.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

Out of curiosity did you at all look at the date?

[OCme]

lol long-live Frostbyte!!!

[cruise]

Out of curiosity did you at all look at the date?

out of curiosity what has that to do with anything.

I'm asking a question in this thread exactly because the information is relevant to todays hardware.

[bf2142lol]

No patent these are off the shelf for about 70.00 us(tube in tube HX) and this one I am running inside out to get a higher flow rate for the liquid. (100% alcohol) or do you mean the Liquid Frostbyte name? We have a copyright on that.

That is one piece of sweet hardware bro. Props! BTW Would you ever consider making one of these if i were to pay you....? If so, what would be a realistic price?

[Fujimitsu]

That is one piece of sweet hardware bro. Props! BTW Would you ever consider making one of these if i were to pay you....? If so, what would be a realistic price?

holy dead thread.

Chilly1 has all but disappeared, talk to some of the more prominent phase builders about something like this.

[A2C]

Nice compresor cooler. I will wish have this at home :)

[OCme]

It's all good! yes it was the shiznet in its time!

[Maxspam]

I lold sooo hard at the burnt up pump.
Few years ago i had a similar pump running in a minifridge for a day or so and it looked just about the same.
I saw the insulation pix and thought "Oh dear thats not going to end well" and sure enough 2 posts down hah

[TopFuel1471]

Ancient thread but good work nonetheless.

[LarsMarkelson]

Can I haz one plz? JK... but seriously, are there/when will there be an easily obtainable water chiller designed for computer usage?

[runnin17]

Wow, that's really cool looking. Great job.

[Knight203]

This is the thread that just wont die.

[chew*]

This is the thread that just wont die.

yep thread far outlasted the unit......seein as it is sitting here useless atm.

[=[PULSAR]=]

yep thread far outlasted the unit......seein as it is sitting here useless atm.

Chew you have the frostbyte?

[chew*]

=;4335559']Chew you have the frostbyte?

For about 5 years now yes. People just don't remember i was benching way back when ;) likely as I was more interested in 24/7 stuff back then.

[=[PULSAR]=]

Up for sale? I'll come to RI to pick it up:D

[chew*]

=;4335989']Up for sale? I'll come to RI to pick it up:D

Not sure if you want it now. I know it needs a condensor. I had it converted to a very large capacity drop coil by chilly way back when.