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Keeper
10-05-2002, 02:21 PM
I am testing a cooler I made out of a small refrigerator, not an extreme chill, but it has managed to cool 51 C tap water to 5 C in about 15 min. It is maintaining a 3.4 C temp in my 90 f garage.

The cooler is an Innovatek water cooler kit installed in a freezer, the freezer can maintain -3 C ambient temp for the Res. Rad. and Pump. It has 5 1\2 feet of insulated hose outside the cooler.

What water temps can I expect to maintain once I hook it up to a 2200+ T-bred with ambient temps of about 30 C?

I plan on running the system below only at 166fsb X 12.5 for about 2075 mghz.

Will I need to isulate the chip to avoid condensation or will I be safe just hooking up the water block as is?

If I need to insulate my CPU, what is the best method?

will_perdikakis
10-06-2002, 09:57 PM
Lots of questions there. Lots of Thermodynamics involved too.

Ok, let me get this straight. You have a radiator, resivoir, and a pump inside the freezer?

To be totally honest with you my friend, you are not giving enough information to determine the thermal capability of your setup.

Let me be more clear. A basic law of ThermoDynamics is

Delta Q = m c delta T

Delta Q is the Rate of heat transfer, this is what is most important to you.

m is mass, this can be easily determined by the volume.

c is the specific heat of the matter involved, in this case it is water.

Delta T is the difference in temperature, in this case, from the inlet to the outlet of the freezer.

You are saying you can maintain -3C temps in the freezer, but not enough info is given.

Your CPU at stock speeds will put out 52.8W of heat under full load. Increasing clock frequency and/or Vcore will increase this thermal output figure.

So assuming your Cpu ends up putting out 80W, this means that the 80W has to be removed just to return the water to ambience. You are looking at a cooling system with a capacity in excess of 150W, that is not a hard task.

However, if your "chiller" can not handle the heat, your temps will rise constantly, then the idea becomes less useful.

Either way, good luck.

BTW How do you like those speakers? I am thinking of buying the sister the same ones.

MuFf|n M@N
10-07-2002, 07:23 AM
on the issue of the speakers.... i have them and i must say they are the best speakers i've ever heard!! and lots cheaper than the klipsch's ;) ;) but the subwoofer in this set puts off hella amounts of heat..... hence the need for the massive heatsink on the back lol

Keeper
10-07-2002, 09:57 AM
I am just getting started on this cooling biz, but the speakers will shake the house. I got more than I thought I was getting. Well pleased with those speakers.

wymjym
10-09-2002, 05:21 AM
I have found with my 'ambient chiller' (http://westech.home.mindspring.com/chiller/mychiller.htm) I can see/feel condensation on the silicone hose at <10f of ambient, the vinyl hose at <13f. I can see minute droplets on the waterblock at <12f of room air temp, none at <10 and larger scary ones at <15.
So I guess you had better plan on insulating.
wj

Keeper
10-09-2002, 06:34 AM
Where can I find some good flexable insulation for the hoses, the only insulation I find at my local hardware store (although works well) makes my hoses 2" thick and very stiff.

I could also use some of the methods you good folks have used to insulate your blocks, and CPU's.

wymjym
10-09-2002, 06:44 AM
I saw some at ACE that fits 1/2~3/4, it bumps the size to 1.5" so yeh it starts getting bigger and bigger.
I haven't tried it but there is some thermal tape, automotive type that is used to protect wiring from heat...if you could wrap it tight enough it should help quite a bit. Most cooled systems I've seen where the temps go down, down, down have the foam type insulation on the hoses.
wj

Keeper
10-09-2002, 08:30 PM
I am using the same foam insulation, it works quite well, although I was hoping there was something smaller, now I need some help insulating the water blocks, l have Innovateck water blocks for CPU, GPU, and chipset. I was thinking something like building a form around the water blocks and filling them with foam insulation, but would sure like to see some of the work you guy's have tried and proved.

will_perdikakis
10-09-2002, 08:50 PM
Go to Home Depot and get a roll of neoprene insulating rubber. It is about 8USD, but you will probably never use it all. It has one sticky side to make it really nice and easy to work with.

BEWARE. It is an utter ööööö to remove.

Drozdov
10-11-2002, 05:16 PM
run a loop first on the chiller and see if u notice any condensation (away from the rig heh) and just insulate the parts where u will see condensation, sine the water temps will be lower than ambient, im pretty sure u will need to insulate the tubing and the waterblock, u should also proof ur board just to be safe

Keeper
10-11-2002, 06:16 PM
Thanks for all the info, I set it up and have it turned down to 19c right now, no condensation at those temps. I don't want to isulate till my GF4 water block gets here on the 15th. Once I put the rubber on, I don't want to be going in and out of the case.

What is the best way to proof the board?

wymjym
10-12-2002, 04:34 AM
Originally posted by Keeper
Thanks for all the info, I set it up and have it turned down to 19c right now, no condensation at those temps. I don't want to isulate till my GF4 water block gets here on the 15th. Once I put the rubber on, I don't want to be going in and out of the case.

What is the best way to proof the board?

Hi,
Since condensation has to do with the dew point and that has to do with water vapor + temperatures......
I have a question. If my ambient temps hover around 26~27 and it is a rather dry day (50~70% humidity) I start to see condensation on the block when my chilled water is at 20(cpu die temp = 26~27). Two days ago it was cooler, ambient 24 and condensation started to show at 18 water. So my question is, what is your ambient temp when you say 19? , and what does the 19 temp represent (cpu-water)?
I am just playing around the condensation level as I have not been able to gain any speed by dropping a degree or two, just condensation shows up. I decided some time ago that I didn't care to go the insulation route and super chilling....ended up with an, 'ambient chiller' (http://westech.home.mindspring.com/chiller/mychiller.htm) . I'm still thrilled that it has worked out 'as planned' (as hoped).
wj

Keeper
10-12-2002, 06:05 AM
My case temps are 29-33c, depending on my grandsons Ghost Recon LAN parties. I am hoping to drop those case temps with a water block on that GeForce 4 card. I am using vinyl hose and the relative humidity stays fairly constant around 40 percent in this room even with an evaporative cooler. This A.M. I woke to find the water temps at 17c but no condensation. My Cpu die temps were 30c Folding all night. I too am playing around with this thing, I would rather not insulate my blocks, but have noticed a 3c increase in the block temp after removing the insulation. My goal is to get a stable 2.1 gigs on my XP2200+ unlocked. I want to use that 13X.

wymjym
10-12-2002, 06:44 AM
I think I just got a handle on my question....I should explain that I only see condensation at those water temps when my cpu is idling or at very low usage....really most of the time. Yesterday I did a couple of hours of photo editing but even during that time...maybe 30 minutes were heavy usage the rest is almost like idle. I see water @ 20, cpu at idle at 25, air at 27 = no condensation but when the ambient to cpu ratio starts to change much more than that condensation will occur. I just adjust for the worst senario which is, idle...cpu temps...set the water chiller to a max of <10(f) ambient air and everything comes up like roses. Try to run the water any cooler-relative to ambient and I will be greeted with tiny droplets.
so...don't be greedy, be happy!
wj

Keeper
10-12-2002, 07:19 AM
Here in the desert, a low humidity seems to keep the drops away until <16~18 of ambient. I have until the 15th till all my parts get here- so I will being testing different senarios till then. Then when we turn of the A/C I will have to do another round of testng senarios. We need A/C here till early November.

will_perdikakis
10-13-2002, 12:36 AM
One thing Keeper.

Vinyl hose is really lousy, especially for large changes in temperatures. Unless you have the nylon re-inforced hose, look for some better tubing. Vinyl hose is not very good in the long term.

wymjym
10-13-2002, 06:00 AM
maybe vinyl is lacking but you will find that silicone is much worse.
I have silicone exiting my chiller and then connected to vinyl....the silicone sweats at 4 degrees warmer ambient than the vinyl.
wj

Keeper
10-13-2002, 06:17 AM
This is some really heavy hose, I had to soak it in almost boiling water to get it over the in\outlets on my heat exchanger, it is kink free and seems to maintain cooler temps much better that the flimsy hose that came with the Innovatek kit. I don't see any sweating and the outside of the hose is 17c with 29c ambient. I maybe wrong about what this hose is made of, I will double check when I get some more on Monday.

wymjym
10-13-2002, 06:28 AM
so did the cold front hit you yet?
wj

Keeper
10-13-2002, 07:14 AM
Oh ya, it hit last night got down to 49, we can expect temps down to 89 today, but the humidity is up to 50%, so this will be a good time to see what the new toy will stay dry at.

wymjym
10-13-2002, 07:21 AM
the next couple days I might just put the box outside....lows @ 43~45 highs@ 65~70
wj

Keeper
10-13-2002, 07:29 AM
If this thing hangs hear any length of time maybe we will see some of those 70~75 temps, that would be nice. I have a huge window in this room, all I have to do is open it, and its like outdoors.

I lied, the cool front landed at 10:30 A.M. MST, nice I don't think it will break 70 today, got some nice steady rain with it, humidity is still around 50%.

My ambient dropped to 24, CPU to 27 while folding.