Lithan
04-11-2004, 12:06 AM
Well, my watercooling rig has been down for months (6) pending a motherboard upgrade I never got around to. I finally put it back together... and not an hour up I notice a hairline fracture leak. At the exact same spot as the last top I had. Spliting out from the exhaust barb. What's causing this? Well, I am fairly demanding as to tubing lengths and as such there are some sharp curves, but while the rest of my setup uses reinforced ultra sturdy tubing. I've made a point to make the piece which attaches here use the flimsiest tubing. This tubing shoud rip before what it's connecting takes damage.
Anyhow, Months ago, I bought a dtek block from tigerdirect for 20$ (and later heard that they were supposedly stolen). I had expected to setup another rig with it when I got the chance... but I'm running it on my main now. Performance is a good 3*Celsius worse at idle, but with a metal top I feel much more confident having my thousand dollar computer dependant on it's reliability. (Especially after the first top splitting cost me one of the early "gem" abit Nforce2's.) My Maze3 never had this problem, I would imagine due to the plexi top being nearly twice as thick... but just to be on the safe side I've converted to the "No plexi" side of watercoolers.
Note: The dtek block is stock, unlapped which I'm hoping is impacting it's performance, and a simple lapping will get it much closer to the cascade.
Anyhow, Months ago, I bought a dtek block from tigerdirect for 20$ (and later heard that they were supposedly stolen). I had expected to setup another rig with it when I got the chance... but I'm running it on my main now. Performance is a good 3*Celsius worse at idle, but with a metal top I feel much more confident having my thousand dollar computer dependant on it's reliability. (Especially after the first top splitting cost me one of the early "gem" abit Nforce2's.) My Maze3 never had this problem, I would imagine due to the plexi top being nearly twice as thick... but just to be on the safe side I've converted to the "No plexi" side of watercoolers.
Note: The dtek block is stock, unlapped which I'm hoping is impacting it's performance, and a simple lapping will get it much closer to the cascade.