First effort at a water loop

[Grifter723]

Greetings programs!

Been looking through the forums and reading up on everything I can find, trying to wrap my head around water cooling to make sure I have a firm grasp on it for when I go to build my first water loop system (current worklog in the forums as we speak: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?284862-First-watercooling-build-CoolerMaster-CM-690-II-Advanced ), but I wanted to get some peoples opinions on whether I am looking at it the right way and have my loop mapped out correctly.

Here is what I have mapped out so far:

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa209/essex23/CM690IIloopdraft_zps0c8afbb0.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/essex23/media/CM690IIloopdraft_zps0c8afbb0.jpg.html)


I am hoping that I am on the right path to a successful water loop. I'm also trying to figure out the best places to put quick disconect fittings to make cleaning and refilling the loop a little easier. Would love any and all feedback.

[Church]

I'd say: replace all those 90deg fittings with tubing bends. = Cheaper, simpler, and though marginally, but less flow resistance.

[Conumdrum]

Here is more stickies and such to help you.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=628092

[Grifter723]

I'd say: replace all those 90deg fittings with tubing bends. = Cheaper, simpler, and though marginally, but less flow resistance.

This was my first draft, which at the time I was planning on using straight acryllic tubing and a lot of 90 degree connectors. But I scratched that notion after not being able to find a place locally that supplied them, so I am going with Primochill 3/8 x 5/8 tubing since, as many have said, it is simpler and cheaper. Some of my parts already had Bitspower connectors anyway, so I am just going to go with what I had. I do need to buy a few more connectors, but not many.

[Grifter723]

Here is more stickies and such to help you.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=628092

I've actually used several of these links so far in my education of water cooling. In your more education opinion, does what I have so far look like a good loop?

[UNTAMED]

not a pro
but I think I'd move the pump \res up higher ,change the flow around ,for air bleeding. the way it is now your trying to push air down into all the block's\bottom rad then up to the res. for separation from the water.

-I don't have a roof mount rad but wonder if a rad with a top port [not sure of cost] \with a fill / drain port for air removal or just the output to res. [tilt case front up to bleed air] might work better.[not the way it is now]
same with the bottom rad it will be self air bleeding ,but not self water draining ,so your drain could go there.

-I use 1/2 x 3/4" tube so trapped air does not bleed as well [lower water speed], so maybe your 3/8" will be ok.
-just remember air wants to go up , water will want to go down.

[Conumdrum]

I've actually used several of these links so far in my education of water cooling. In your more education opinion, does what I have so far look like a good loop?


Pretty normal. See nothing odd.

[paulbagz]

If you want, with minor modwork you can put a triple 120 up top but requires removing that dorky HDD bay.

You are on the right track however take note that if you are using a standard sized power supply you will have to mod the lower front area under the 140mil fan in order for it to fit and have your outlets/PSU cables have space to move.

-PB

[Grifter723]

not a pro
but I think I'd move the pump \res up higher ,change the flow around ,for air bleeding. the way it is now your trying to push air down into all the block's\bottom rad then up to the res. for separation from the water.

-I don't have a roof mount rad but wonder if a rad with a top port [not sure of cost] \with a fill / drain port for air removal or just the output to res. [tilt case front up to bleed air] might work better.[not the way it is now]
same with the bottom rad it will be self air bleeding ,but not self water draining ,so your drain could go there.

-I use 1/2 x 3/4" tube so trapped air does not bleed as well [lower water speed], so maybe your 3/8" will be ok.
-just remember air wants to go up , water will want to go down.

I was going to put the res in the top bay initially, but the ports for both the res and the rad are almost at the exact same place hight-wise. Would be really difficult to get a tube to bend like that without making it unnecessarily long. I have thought of reversing the flow however, and make it so that the water being pushed out of the res is going to the lower rad first instead of the top. That's also where I am thinking of putting in quick connect fittings for draining/refilling purposes....but still not sure about that.

Also thinking about bumping up to 1/2" fittings. Didn't know much about sizes when I first started, and a lot of stuff I bougth had 3/8 x 5/8 listed as "reccomended" when I bought them. It may be an added expense, but from what I am reading, will be a better investment in the long run.

[Grifter723]

If you want, with minor modwork you can put a triple 120 up top but requires removing that dorky HDD bay.

You are on the right track however take note that if you are using a standard sized power supply you will have to mod the lower front area under the 140mil fan in order for it to fit and have your outlets/PSU cables have space to move.

-PB

Yeah....not going for a triple 120 on top. I already have my dual 120 rad's in hand.

When you say "standard sized power supply"....how do you define standard size? I have a Corsair AX750 watt PSU...from what I read on a few others pages, I shouldn't need to do any modding to my case at all with this one.

[paulbagz]

Hehe sorry my "standard" is anything in the 180mil deep range (mine is a Strider 1200 Gold) and I'm using a Swiftech MCR220 down the bottom.

Combined total depth is 280+180 = 460mm and that's not including the 10-15mm you need for cable movement.

I didn't realise the AX750s weren't as long, they're only 160mm and your RS240 is 277mm = 437mm so you might get away with it easily.

Have you done a "dry" run to see how things fit?

Also note there aren't easily mountable screw holes down there (at least not on mine anyway, I used large head washers to hold in place).

-PB

[Grifter723]

Hehe sorry my "standard" is anything in the 180mil deep range (mine is a Strider 1200 Gold) and I'm using a Swiftech MCR220 down the bottom.

Combined total depth is 280+180 = 460mm and that's not including the 10-15mm you need for cable movement.

I didn't realise the AX750s weren't as long, they're only 160mm and your RS240 is 277mm = 437mm so you might get away with it easily.

Have you done a "dry" run to see how things fit?

Also note there aren't easily mountable screw holes down there (at least not on mine anyway, I used large head washers to hold in place).

-PB

Thanks for the measurment info. I hadn't gone into that much detail on my end to see how big things were compared to how big the case was. I honestly just kind of assumed it was all going to fit. lol


Haven't done a dry run yet, that will probably be happening in the next few weeks. Still need to buy some stuff needed to finish putting it all together. I've looked at the bottom of the case and saw what you were talking about with the mounting holes there. That's not really what is worrying me right now though. I'm more worried about my res. The CM 690II case has those tool-less locks for the front drive bays, but my res doesn't want to sit fluch with the sides so they can lock in on it firmly. Trying to figure out how to remedy that.

[Grifter723]

Hehe sorry my "standard" is anything in the 180mil deep range (mine is a Strider 1200 Gold) and I'm using a Swiftech MCR220 down the bottom.

Combined total depth is 280+180 = 460mm and that's not including the 10-15mm you need for cable movement.

I didn't realise the AX750s weren't as long, they're only 160mm and your RS240 is 277mm = 437mm so you might get away with it easily.

Have you done a "dry" run to see how things fit?

Also note there aren't easily mountable screw holes down there (at least not on mine anyway, I used large head washers to hold in place).

-PB

Dry run done, and things look like they will fit wonderfully. http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?284862-First-watercooling-build-CoolerMaster-CM-690-II-Advanced



***UPDATE 4/29/2013***

Ok, so I went back in and looked at a few things tonight, and one thing I was noticing was the lack of space at the top of my case where the upper radiator and the top edge of the motherboard are. It looks like even though this is a slim radiator, that the construction of the motherboard itself, coupled with the thermal armor, are making it to where I won't be able to add fans to the underside of the radiator to push air onto it. Right now, it only has 2 fans on top pulling the air off it.

Anyone have any insights on how this might be overcome?

[Conumdrum]

It's not uncommon, it happens quite a bit. Many cases have the space for fans but not rads and fans.

You have some fans on the top rad already? Then try that, many Push/Pull but don't need too.

[paulbagz]

Saw your pic on the thread.

Have your rad where it is and put the fans on the top side of the case. They should fit under the grilling.

-PB

[Grifter723]

It's not uncommon, it happens quite a bit. Many cases have the space for fans but not rads and fans.

You have some fans on the top rad already? Then try that, many Push/Pull but don't need too.


Saw your pic on the thread.

Have your rad where it is and put the fans on the top side of the case. They should fit under the grilling.

-PB

Yeah, I have 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon's up top onder the grill pushing air down onto the upper radiator...I think. At least thats what I remember the arrows indicating. But then again, when I put them on, it was like 3 a.m. and I was getting sleepy. lol


At least I know I will be able to do a true push/pull on the lower radiator, but I'm not sure how effective that will be seeing as the lower radiator is going to get the out flow from the radiator first. Maybe having the cooler water hitting the gpu and then the cpu will be fine. I just remember the whole "water wants to go down/air wants to go up" concept when I started redesigning my loop.

[Conumdrum]

The temp diff anywhere in the loop is only 1-2 C. Don't worry about it.

[Grifter723]

Ok...here then is a new question of a different nature then.

I am looking to add some quick disconnect fittings to my loop for cleaning/maintenance, but I am kind of stuck on where I should put them. My gut tells me to put them towards the end of my loop, going from my lower radiator flowing back into my reservoir, but I am not too sure. Can anyone take a look at my diagram and see if I am guessing right, or how I should do this.

http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa209/essex23/New%20PC%20build%202013/CM690IIloopdraft_zps9ea61977.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/essex23/media/New%20PC%20build%202013/CM690IIloopdraft_zps9ea61977.jpg.html)


And a secondary question would be regarding adding a fan controller vs. a 5.25" SSD cage in one of the remaining bays. I have heard fan controllers are almost essential, but I have 3 SSD's in my build that I need to relocate to remove the lower half of my drive bay cage inside the case so the lower radiator will fit as designed. So in y'alls more informed opinions, what should I go with? Fan controller (more than likely the Lamptron FC6 or FC5V3) or the IcyDock 4x2.5 SSD Drive cage?

[Makymaco]

I am looking to add some quick disconnect fittings to my loop for cleaning/maintenance, but I am kind of stuck on where I should put them.
In the lower part of the loop, so the water will exit naturaly from the loop.
When you will empty your loop, you have to have the two part of the tubing to be outside the case with a recipient under it.
You can also use a T connector with the quick disconnect at the end of it.
http://i.imgur.com/km7Trca.jpg





And a secondary question would be regarding adding a fan controller vs. a 5.25" SSD cage in one of the remaining bays. I have heard fan controllers are almost essential, but I have 3 SSD's in my build that I need to relocate to remove the lower half of my drive bay cage inside the case so the lower radiator will fit as designed. So in y'alls more informed opinions, what should I go with? Fan controller (more than likely the Lamptron FC6 or FC5V3) or the IcyDock 4x2.5 SSD Drive cage?
You can have both using a fan controller without front end : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13696..

[Grifter723]

In the lower part of the loop, so the water will exit naturaly from the loop.
When you will empty your loop, you have to have the two part of the tubing to be outside the case with a recipient under it.
You can also use a T connector with the quick disconnect at the end of it.
http://i.imgur.com/km7Trca.jpg




You can have both using a fan controller without front end : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13696..


So the best place would be between the video card and the lower rad then? What then is the best way to get the water out of the rad at that point? Just tip it over?

[Makymaco]

So the best place would be between the video card and the lower rad then?
yes


What then is the best way to get the water out of the rad at that point? Just tip it over?
put a tube extremity over a recipient and blow in the other tube extremity.

I am not sure to do a correct translation in my last sentence (english is not my first language), if it is incorrect, can you
let me know how it should be expressed in english please ?

I use only water in my loop, if you use any funcky liquid be careful to not swalow any.