Very bad corrosion

[junkun13]

I've been using Ice Dragon coolant for about a month and a half, I just noticed my res a week ago that some weird color is forming on its corners on the inside and the temps are going bad when playing games like crysis2 so I decided to left it to my friend's place to flush the coolant and to check what's going on. I was shocked with his reports, this is the first time I experienced this after so many LCS builds.

Pics

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0201.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0201.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0200.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0200.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0199.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0199.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0198.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0198.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0197.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0197.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0196.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0196.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0195.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0195.jpg)

fortunately my gpu blocks are safe and hopefully my chipset blocks too

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0193.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0193.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0194.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0193.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0191.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0191.jpg)

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/th__CSC0190.jpg (http://s88.photobucket.com/albums/k174/junkun13/corrosion/?action=view&current=_CSC0190.jpg)

Can I just re chrome the blocks affected? re powder coat the fittings?

[matari]

You EK blocks plating failed and or your fittings were not brass. The blocks can be rma through EK, I would suggest getting copper as your replacement. Possible to remove then plate the blocks but it would cost you almost as much as buying new. Those fittings are toast.

[junkun13]

I already sent an email to ek i hope they reply soon so I can play BF3 early :)


iPhone Tapatalk

[Tackleberry]

Cool. What about bitspower?
You ain't getting those fittings exchanged. They look badly corroded as well.
And do change fluid, looks like a snake oil as EKWB blocks are not the only one affected.

[junkun13]

I'm not sure if bitspower have any warranties on their fittings but I'll try to contact vincent,

For the mean time I'll just use distilled + silver coil. The res is useless anymore because it's impossible to clean the stains on the inside since there's no way to open it. I guess I need to buy a new one


iPhone Tapatalk

[Tackleberry]

I'm not sure if bitspower have any warranties on their fittings
If this is a joke, then it is a really bad one!

[ohms]

I just threw out (22) Bitspower Premium G1/4" High Flow 3/8" Fittings because they were all corroded inside, I noticed that the majority of them were flaking.

Funny part is the specs on the BP fittings: High Quality Brass with Shiny Silver coating

I'm assuming it's the shiny silver coating that was flaking off which may be the root of the corrosion as I doubt it's real silver coating or they fittings aren't real brass. In any event I replaced all the barbs with black Alphacool barb fittings. Now I just have to clean off the brown stains from the inside of my fittings that were not corroded which I'm not looking forward to.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to clean the stains off easily?

[Kayin]

I've got a hell of a lot of corroded gold fittings, and gold is supposed to be pretty much non-reactive. I'm wondering about BP stuff too.

That said, most of what I have is BP fittings. At least the wife's fittings are powdercoated black.

[ohms]

Thanks to Junkun13, I took apart my EK Supreme HF Cu Nickel plated since I am in the middle of my current build and took a look inside, I'm glad that I did. I found the beginnings of corrosion inside of my block.

Hopefully I can still get my RMA through EK.

Purchased May 14, 2010

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/5084/eksupremehfcorrosion1.jpg

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/2690/eksupremehfcorrosion2.jpg

[matari]

The EK blocks were the root cause of the issue. When the water became acidic it ate away at the fittings. Make sure you get the copper version of the blocks, there are several people complaining about the EN version as well. Just check the OCN forums.

[ohms]

The EK blocks were the root cause of the issue. When the water became acidic it ate away at the fittings. Make sure you get the copper version of the blocks, there are several people complaining about the EN version as well. Just check the OCN forums.

Are you serious about the EN blocks? I just bought a 6990, 6970 and Gigabyte 990FXA UD7 block.

Also, if I RMA my Supreme HF do I have to send everything back, like the screws, nuts, washers, mounting back plate?

[lowfat]

The EK blocks were the root cause of the issue. When the water became acidic it ate away at the fittings. .

Going to have to go w/ this. I had to throw out a half dozen Feser compressions when I had my EK SR-2 block go bad on me. Mine didn't look near that bad though. But likely because mine were only in use for 3 weeks.

You should be able to replate everything. Although the fittings I am not sure it will be worth it. You'd need to disassemble all the rotaries before getting them done.

[the_dope_chaud]

The res is useless anymore because it's impossible to clean the stains on the inside since there's no way to open it.

Throw some water and a handful of sand in there and shake it!

[matari]

The plating on fittings are very thin. A little bit of citric acid and distilled water is enough to take the plating off. Honestly, I'm going back to powder coated brass if they even exist.

I'm serious about the the EN blocks. There are three people complaining about it. However, there are going to be a small portions of blocks that are going to fail. There isn't really a correlation yet. we are going to have to wait and see.

[Sparky]

Everyone saying to replace the fittings, yeah, his look pretty bad. I doubt those can be cleaned up enough :( OP, how does the impeller and bearing of your pump look?

But I have some fittings (various brands) that have had their plating screwed up from some bizarre mishap that I had in my loop. I cleaned everything up and it all looks good now, but there is bare brass visible on certain parts of the fittings (the inside of an elbow from my drain line, the lips on a few of my barbs, etc). I'm not worried about the bare brass, but am I risking more plating getting flaked off and screwing stuff up more yet again?

I don't mean to threadjack but this question seems somewhat related and it might help others who have something similar happen.

[Tackleberry]

The EK blocks were the root cause of the issue. When the water became acidic it ate away at the fittings. Make sure you get the copper version of the blocks, there are several people complaining about the EN version as well. Just check the OCN forums.
Water turns to acid due to nickel plating?
That is something new:D
I think you skipped 1st point.
And what about all of those people who do not use EKWB blocks and their fittings flake.
Any suggestion for them?

Maybe a rainbow was too often over their house?

[ohms]

So I was asked to "polish" my block because some of the blocks that were returned just needed to be "polished".

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/7746/eksupremehfcorrosion1b.jpg

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/5730/eksupremehfcorrosion2b.jpg

What do you think guys? Need to be polished more?

[junkun13]

I emailed vincent and I think he's offering me a replacements for the fittings and he's also shocked after seeing their product look like that.

About EK still no word from them are they dead? lol

Yeah i heard EN products are a failure too I know someone who experience corrosion with EN


iPhone Tapatalk

[tiborrr]

You were sent an email at approximately 10.30PM CET. If you haven't received it please contact me via PM / email.

[ying]

Yeah i heard EN products are a failure too I know someone who experience corrosion with EN


I know some friends that in his work, add's nickel coat or other materials in different pieces. I think, if i got a problem like that, I will re-coat them in there. For the people who wants to have an ek safe nickel waterblock, a good option will be to buy the copper version and cover them of nickel in a company specialized in this type of things, probably the cost will be higher, but the end will be better and more safer.

But nowadays i got ek nickel coated waterblocks and no corrosion. I used for +1 year.

Hope you that Ek will replace your bad waterblock for new one's ;)

[Kallenator]

So I was asked to "polish" my block because some of the blocks that were returned just needed to be "polished".

What do you think guys? Need to be polished more?

I fail to see any significant corrosion on your block ohms. That looks like normal wear and tear over time to me. Might wanna take a look at your coolant though, but that is about it.
That is more than good enough polished, looks like new.

Took apart, cleaned and mounted my CPU block recently. Probably have had it running for around 1-2 year since last clean (Can't remember xD).
There was no build up of corrosion on the GPU blocks or brass fittings nor any residue on the pump and only some few particles in the coolant. The tubing was fairly foggy though.
(I use 60/40 Ionized water/Blue Radiator fluid.)

Btw, what is the point in plating copper? The copper is so versatile that if you pay attention to the metals in your loop you will hardly ever have a problem with it.

[ohms]

I fail to see any significant corrosion on your block ohms. That looks like normal wear and tear over time to me. Might wanna take a look at your coolant though, but that is about it.
That is more than good enough polished, looks like new.

Took apart, cleaned and mounted my CPU block recently. Probably have had it running for around 1-2 year since last clean (Can't remember xD).
There was no build up of corrosion on the GPU blocks or brass fittings nor any residue on the pump and only some few particles in the coolant. The tubing was fairly foggy though.
(I use 60/40 Ionized water/Blue Radiator fluid.)

Btw, what is the point in plating copper? The copper is so versatile that if you pay attention to the metals in your loop you will hardly ever have a problem with it.

Significant or not, the fact remains that there is still corrosion and if I continue to use it will only corrode more and potentially damage the rest of my water blocks. Bad nickel plating is bad nickel plating so telling me to give my block a "good polish" and clean it is a load of crap. I just want my RMA.

[mlwood37]

Got Ek's coolant here ... it is defiantly not none conductive and not 1 uS

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/9228/dscf8763jr.jpg

they need to reduce the red dye as well as it Stains every thing even my meter's....

Notice its 137 "x10" thats not 1us as very cleverly stated on there site (we use 1us Di water) ... its 1370 uS

Think its about time some independent real tests were run on coolants and what Companies are saying they are. because this is the same with nearly all makers of fluids. Very few are standing up to there "claims" ....

[MegadetHCl]

I wonder if anybody has ever tested using a buffered solution in a water-cooling setup... With all the talk about water becoming acidic and initiating corrosion of plated parts, maybe it's time we switch to something like phosphate buffered saline: "Phosphate buffered saline (abbreviated PBS) is a buffer solution commonly used in biological research. It is a water-based salt solution containing sodium chloride, sodium phosphate, and (in some formulations) potassium chloride and potassium phosphate. The buffer helps to maintain a constant pH." - Wiki

[matari]

First, There is absolutely no need for an anticorrosive in a typical water cooling loop. Second, unless you spend a lot of cash or give up performance, there is no such thing as a non/low conductive fluid.

I would suggest that you accept the copper blocks as replacement for the corroded nickel blocks. However, there is no real evidence (or even a correlation) that the EN blocks have issues. We just have to wait and see.

[Kayin]

If someone will link me to a place to get the stuff for PBS I'll put it in a test loop here...

BTW, the "polished" EK you posted would piss me off too. It's just not acceptable.

[matari]

If someone will link me to a place to get the stuff for PBS I'll put it in a test loop here...

BTW, the "polished" EK you posted would piss me off too. It's just not acceptable.

Ever since this issue occurred, everybody and there mother wants a new block. I am sure it is not feasible (monetarily) to replace every block, even the ones that don't have issues. You might argue that the blocks should be 100% recalled (I agree), but that is not method EK used. You cannot expect those blocks to look 100% new all the time.

[Kayin]

Under general wear circumstances I would agree. However, there is flaking nickel in the water path with that block. That means metal shards in pumps, in tubes, in blocks and in rads. That can't be good for cooling.

[tiborrr]

Got Ek's coolant here ... it is defiantly not none conductive and not 1 uS

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/9228/dscf8763jr.jpg

they need to reduce the red dye as well as it Stains every thing even my meter's....

Notice its 137 "x10" thats not 1us as very cleverly stated on there site (we use 1us Di water) ... its 1370 uS

Think its about time some independent real tests were run on coolants and what Companies are saying they are. because this is the same with nearly all makers of fluids. Very few are standing up to there "claims" ....
Read more carefully. The water used for coolant has electrical conductivity of 1uS/cm. Ofcourse the coolant itself will have much higher conductivy because of all the additives and dyes added.

[Vinas]

Bleach with warm water will clean it out of the res. Fill and plug the holes then do the shake dance a few times. It takes several rinses but that stuff WILL come out, I've done it before.

[zanzabar]

If this is a joke, then it is a really bad one!

i know im late to the thread, when i built my 1st loop i got a bits power crystalT, it broke on the seam within 2 days (i had it hand tight with BP fittings), i contacted bits power and they would not get back to me, i contacted performance-pcs.com and they said they would ship me a new one once i shipped it back and i had to pay shipping on the new one (more than a new fitting), so i drove down to petras and bought a DD acetal one and all was good.

its really to bad that petras is not petras anymore and they are not in SJ so u can just drive down and get replacements for things that broke and need immediate replacement.

[matari]

Why do we plate copper blocks with nickel/chrome? There are several reasons why. First, aesthetics. While oxidation does not really effect performance much, it simply does not look great on a copper block. Sure we can use a citric acid diluted with distilled water to clean the copper block, but that requires frequent maintenance to maintain. The effects of oxidation on nickel/chrome are not visible. Second, we use nickel/chrome plated blocks to help prevent corrosion of the copper underneath.

There are consequence of plating blocks. The plating on most blocks is only microns thick. Overtime, erosion will damage or remove part of the plating. Also, it can be difficult to plate the base plate of a micro-channel CPU block. The plating in that area is more than likely going to very thin.

[junkun13]

You were sent an email at approximately 10.30PM CET. If you haven't received it please contact me via PM / email.

Still no reply from ek, your inbox is full please pm me your email address


iPhone Tapatalk

[ohms]

Still no reply from ek, your inbox is full please pm me your email address

I put in an RMA form and opened up a ticket and I have not got a response back since they told me to try cleaning and polishing the block.

[tiborrr]

Oh hai! I've emptied my inbox, feel free to PM :)

ohms: Our mail server is acting weird the last two days, the guys from maintenance are working on it. Try dropping email again.

[tiborrr]

Got Ek's coolant here ... it is defiantly not none conductive and not 1 uS

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/9228/dscf8763jr.jpg

they need to reduce the red dye as well as it Stains every thing even my meter's....

Notice its 137 "x10" thats not 1us as very cleverly stated on there site (we use 1us Di water) ... its 1370 uS

Think its about time some independent real tests were run on coolants and what Companies are saying they are. because this is the same with nearly all makers of fluids. Very few are standing up to there "claims" ....
I've taken a picture of our label printed on the bottle:

You can clearly see we state 1.4mS/cm (which is 1400uS/cm) therefore we are not misleading anyone!

http://file.si/pfiles/204583/DSC_0038.JPG

Regards,
Niko

[mlwood37]

Cannot read my labels its all messed up. If you reduce the amount of dye your using you'll be able to get that right down.

Its grate having such a strong colour but its to much. If your after a deeper darker colour try cutting back on the red Dye and adding a smidgen of blue this will give you the same effect with less use of dye. this could half that value.

[tiborrr]

I wanted to share this information with you.

This is one of the cases where customer claimed corrosion on EN Nickel but in fact this was some kind of residue stuck to the surface of the waterblock. The residue could easily be cleaned away using just a tiny bit of metal polishing cream, the more narrow chambers of the waterblock would require some q-tip cleaning :)

http://file.si/pfiles/204729/en_rma2_false1.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204730/en_rma2_false2.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204731/en_rma2_false3.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204732/en_rma2_false4.JPG


Also, one more case of the EN Nickel block claimed to be corroded but was in fact just plain dirty.

http://file.si/pfiles/204721/en_rma_false1.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204722/en_rma_false2.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204723/en_rma_false3.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204724/en_rma_false4.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204725/en_rma_false5.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204726/en_rma_false6.JPG

http://file.si/pfiles/204727/en_rma_false7.JPG

[Church]

tiborrr: aye, EK Ni-block witch hunt hit high levels, no wonder that some customers might have produced false positives as well because of scare in forums. I'm curious though what might leave residue that to my eye looks rust alike. And even weirder for that residue to be in other but waterpath areas too (1st block pics). If such false positives make up big share of returned blocks, you might consider suggesting customers to RMA first to try cleaning, and if that didn't help and is indeed corroded layer only then to RMA.

[Sparky]

That's the problem, once there is a issue it gets blown out of proportion and suddenly everybody has issues.Toyota and their gas pedal problems for example (BTW I am not a Toyota fan personally), yes there was some sort of problem but it got blown so out of proportion and suddenly everybody and their brother had issues with runaway cars or whatever.

[tiborrr]

tiborrr: aye, EK Ni-block witch hunt hit high levels, no wonder that some customers might have produced false positives as well because of scare in forums. I'm curious though what might leave residue that to my eye looks rust alike. And even weirder for that residue to be in other but waterpath areas too (1st block pics). If such false positives make up big share of returned blocks, you might consider suggesting customers to RMA first to try cleaning, and if that didn't help and is indeed corroded layer only then to RMA.
Indeed there are a lot of false positives. I still don't know what the residue might be, perhaps an layer of sulphate oxide (which could come from Cu sulphate biocide) or some sort or reaction with flux and/or some sort of algae.

Customers usually reject the idea of cleaning though even though we propose it.

[ohms]

Oh hai! I've emptied my inbox, feel free to PM :)

ohms: Our mail server is acting weird the last two days, the guys from maintenance are working on it. Try dropping email again.

I got all RMA form with the number and instructions from Greg after you posted this. I shipped it back to PPCs this morning, thanks though Tiborrr. :up:


Customers usually reject the idea of cleaning though even though we propose it.

I cleaned my block as Greg requested, but in the end it was still corrosion :)

[zanzabar]

Indeed there are a lot of false positives. I still don't know what the residue might be, perhaps an layer of sulphate oxide (which could come from Cu sulphate biocide) or some sort or reaction with flux and/or some sort of algae.

Customers usually reject the idea of cleaning though even though we propose it.

dosnt ek void the warranty if u open up the block though. so if u clean it your screwed if u have a plexi failure or corrosion or metal failure (not sure on the numbers but i dont expect much) and if u dont then it could be corrosion and flake (dose it flake i was never sure on that)

[ohms]

Opening the block does not void the warranty.

[matari]

If you open the block, EK does not guarantee that block will not leak. That is all. I would hesitant to tell someone to clean their plated block without giving them instructions. They might do something like use vinegar and strip the plating off.

[tiborrr]

Opening the block does not void the warranty.
True! :)

@matari: This was already published on May 11th 2010: http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/support/index.php?act=article&code=view&id=12


When cleaning blocks please do not use any aggressive chemicals (neither vinegar) or rough materials as you may damage block and void warranty.

And yes, I know we must re-do our knowledge base to make it more user-friendly. :)

[matari]

Indeed there are a lot of false positives. I still don't know what the residue might be, perhaps an layer of sulphate oxide (which could come from Cu sulphate biocide) or some sort or reaction with flux and/or some sort of algae.

Customers usually reject the idea of cleaning though even though we propose it.

Please tell use what you consider safe to clean your plated blocks

[Church]

tiborrr: customers rejecting idea of cleaning first .. you might try to play a bit with wording how you propose. I haven't yet RMAed anything by EK, so have no experience and can only guess - probably you simply ask, if user tried cleaning first? Try in next RMA cases first telling that there been several falsely damaged Ni blocks, then describe benefits of cleaning - if it works = no need to wait days for RMA, block will be as new after short time + user will know culprit for that to not happen with replacement block as well. You can also suggest few effective to use and common/cheap enough to get cleaning agents. +Of course usage of copy/paste to not rewrite all each time :D.
Communication is two way road. Even if there is no fault on your side, if you wish for other side to do something, you have to use a bit of psychology from your side :)

[tiborrr]

Please tell use what you consider safe to clean your plated blocks
We use polish products from this manufacturer: http://www.arexons.com/
It works fine with us.

@churchy:
Thank you for that, we'll keep that in mind :)

[matari]

thanks

[junkun13]

do you guys think the ice dragon coolant ate my fittings? Of course ice dragon kept defending their product. I can't think of any other culprit. I really like that coolant because it looks good on my system/theme but now maybe I'll just use distilled or white tubing for the time being.

[Kayin]

No, the fittings broke down because of the issues in the block. It's not the Ice Dragon, and it's final proof there's a plating process problem-the simple fact is that nothing should be able to corrode in that stuff.

[Avathar77]

We use polish products from this manufacturer: http://www.arexons.com/
It works fine with us.

@churchy:
Thank you for that, we'll keep that in mind :)

I would love to know what we can use safely to clean in this side of the pond? (UK that is)

[Waterlogged]

I've taken a picture of our label printed on the bottle:

You can clearly see we state 1.4mS/cm (which is 1400uS/cm) therefore we are not misleading anyone!

snip

Regards,
Niko

According to the EK site you are. . ."low electrical conductivity". . ."extra pure distilled/deionized water of electrical conductivity of 1µS/cm used for the coolant", no mention of the 1.4mS/cm at all. Who cares what the uS/cm of the water was before you added the additives, that is meaningless after you add stuff.

[ScottyPimpin]

I purchased a mobo full cover EN block in August from PPC. Recently noticed some discoloration in my tubes so I gutted the WC loop to find out what the root cause was. The EN GPU WB had no issue but the new block I added on the mobo had started to flake and corrode.

EK was very prompt to give me an RMA number and instructions to send it back to PPC. I contacted PPC and they're out of the WB and said they have over 50 blocks on back order with EK and no eta on when EK will be sending replacements. PPC recommended I contact EK about the issue, which i've attempted to do but I don't expect an answer since there's already over 50 others waiting.

Now the big question is.. When will we get replacement blocks?

[lowfat]

do you guys think the ice dragon coolant ate my fittings? Of course ice dragon kept defending their product. I can't think of any other culprit. I really like that coolant because it looks good on my system/theme but now maybe I'll just use distilled or white tubing for the time being.

So far I've had no issues w/ my Ice Dragon Coolant. I'll be doing a rebuild at the end of the month so I'll be able to tell you more then.

[tiborrr]

EK was very prompt to give me an RMA number and instructions to send it back to PPC. I contacted PPC and they're out of the WB and said they have over 50 blocks on back order with EK and no eta on when EK will be sending replacements. PPC recommended I contact EK about the issue, which i've attempted to do but I don't expect an answer since there's already over 50 others waiting.

Now the big question is.. When will we get replacement blocks?
You have missunderstood PPC. They have 50 new waterblocks inbound and not 50 blocks for RMA :)

[ScottyPimpin]

EDIT: I was contacted by PPC and they clarified that they in fact have 50 items in general they are waiting for, not 50 other blocks on back order.

Sorry about the misunderstanding

[tiborrr]

The other customers that are waiting does not necasserily mean they wait for the RMA replacement waterblocks :) We collate orders for retailers like PPC and try to fullfill them completely in order to reduce shipping costs. I'm very sorry this is taking a long time for you, I'm sure our assembly line is doing everything to get this out of the house ASAP.

[Raul-7]

Got Ek's coolant here ... it is defiantly not none conductive and not 1 uS

they need to reduce the red dye as well as it Stains every thing even my meter's....

Notice its 137 "x10" thats not 1us as very cleverly stated on there site (we use 1us Di water) ... its 1370 uS

Think its about time some independent real tests were run on coolants and what Companies are saying they are. because this is the same with nearly all makers of fluids. Very few are standing up to there "claims" ....

It should not matter, all water will become conductive as soon as it comes into contact with the air. It is unavoidable.

I have RO in my loop with a TDS of 5 ppm out of the filter, a month later the water in the actual loop has TDS reading of ~126 ppm.

[thienloi]

My EK Supreme HF Full Chome:


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y131/thienloiVOZ/IMG_0328.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y131/thienloiVOZ/IMG_0329.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y131/thienloiVOZ/IMG_0332.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y131/thienloiVOZ/IMG_0331.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y131/thienloiVOZ/IMG_0330.jpg

It is not bad corrosion. I think it is a mistake in plating process.

I can send a PM or email to tiborr :(, his inbox has exceeded.

[PatRaceTin]

junkun13 <=== look like same corrosion as mine

but i got it near fin

[jumper2high]

thienloi, that Water block was plated by someone else, not EK, correct?

[PiLsY]

Yeah thats not an EK plating job. PPCs did their own in house plated version didnt they?

[thienloi]

I see: Custom Chroming by RRT Plating Service

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekwaekhffuch.html

[jumper2high]

I see: Custom Chroming by RRT Plating Service

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekwaekhffuch.html

Yeah, no way to blame EK for that..

[thienloi]

Yeah, no way to blame EK for that..

I don't blame EK for that :)

Just don't know exactly about this product.

[Sparky]

I see the problem, but I won't go into any details :para:

Personally, I think plating just asks for more trouble than it is worth :shrug:

[Kayin]

I should go back to doing my own plating. I have stuff from when I built Mithril that's still just fine, and that's silver, which is a lot softer.