Koolance Problem: Leaking 180 Degree Connector

[[AK]Zip]

So I purchased a 180 degree connector so I could connect 2 radiators together that are right next to one another. I know it wasn't designed for this, but should work just the same since the same fitting threading is used. I receive it after a week of waiting and I am greeted with yet another problem keeping me from completing my loop. The connector leaks from one side. If I move it at all it will leak. If I don't move it it will leak on and off as it damn well pleases. I want to mention that there is no leaking from the threaded area and that the shaft is extended all the way out. Regardless what I do it leaks from one side. Not impressed.... :down:

Will be calling Koolance to find out if they can get another one out to me quickly. Otherwise I will be going with the more traditional method of barb and tubing, but at least I won't leak...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bID3_g1EwRA

[jumper2high]

Could that be just a faulty link?

[Church]

Isn't it simple issue of damaged O-ring? You don't have some spare one around?
And WHY, why you didn't RMA first, and only IF there were problems in doing so, posted in forums?

I know, i know, it's popular to bash vendors these days :/

[OC Maximus]

Must be Koolance bash month......

[Waterlogged]

Does it stop leaking if you pull up on that side? These weren't really meant for this kind of usage, the res's have a side hole that these bottom out in that force them into the fitting properly...something the rads don't have.

[[AK]Zip]

Isn't it simple issue of damaged O-ring? You don't have some spare one around?
And WHY, why you didn't RMA first, and only IF there were problems in doing so, posted in forums?

I know, i know, it's popular to bash vendors these days :/

Do you have any idea how these are made? You can not change the internal o-ring without cutting / removing the brass tube and having to make a new one of these. I doubt it is a damaged o-ring. One side is rounded quite nicely with very little play and doesn't leak. The side that leaks is more oval and has more movement. Could be an improper size o-ring.

And the reason WHY I didn't RMA first is because I am getting tired of products being sold untested at premium prices. No quality control what so ever otherwise this would have been found and never packaged/shipped. I won't even mention that the plating and build quality looks like :banana::banana::banana::banana:. :rolleyes:


Does it stop leaking if you pull up on that side? These weren't really meant for this kind of usage, the res's have a side hole that these bottom out in that force them into the fitting properly...something the rads don't have.

No. Still leaks. Like I said in my original post this thing is pulled all the way out. See above for more info.

[Vicey]

I bet the o-ring inside has flipped over or curled up so there is a tiny hole when pressure is applied to the loop its letting water out.

Bottom line is things like this are going to happen from time to time unfortunately. Good thing you tested it before it was in your system! :)

[NKrader]

gawww RABBLE RABBLE RABBLE, KOOLANCE RABBLE
http://sodblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/rabble.jpg

Just figured id get in on this hate aswell :up:

[Wolf132]

Well you could always use 2 90's to connect them the exact same way.

[jumper2high]

Do you have any idea how these are made?

Exactly how ARE they made?

[OC Maximus]

Really? Its a hard pipe ment to be used for a specific purpose not what your using it for. Any flex, like moving the rads like your doing, should cause the fitting to leak. That is not a dynamic seal. Use the fitting for what it was intended for and you shouldn't have any issues. Anywho, suggest you go back to barb and tubing and close this thread, it makes no sense. GL

[Koolance]

OC Maximus is right. These connecting pipes were designed for a specific purpose on our bay reservoirs. Any small difference in surface height or thread angle won't allow them to seal properly. That's the nature of the design, the pipe must be just right for the o-ring to be evenly compacted against the pipe taper by the compression ring. If you used the pipe on a single flat (unmoving) surface with the same distance between threads, you shouldn't have any problem.

Tim