First watercooling loop not working :(

[idkfa]

Hi all, I'm at a loss of what is going wrong with my Swiftech Edge H20-320 setup. I have set it up horizontally at the top of my new Corsair 800D. I have filled the loop completely, topping it up after turning it on for a few seconds 2-3 times. There are no components installed, just a PSU with the paper clip trick with the pump molex plugged in.

When I power on the PSU the fans spin up, then after 2 seconds there is a loud buzzing followed after another 2 seconds by clicking/grinding noise. I am worried this is killing the pump so its not been on more than 10 seconds at a time.

I have used standard compression fittings on the rad/pump and 2 45 degree compression fit elbows on the cpu block (Apogee XTL) due to the inlet/outlet holes being too close together. Is it possible these are too tight or not connected properly?

When filling the loop I could see the water filling the hosing and when tilting the case could hear the water filling all the air gaps in the rad. The hosing is not kinked in any way.

Is it just a case of letting it run for longer or have I done something wrong?

Cheers

[RCG_Bex]

Photo's of your setup would give us a big help and might be able to point you in the right direction.

[defect9]

the grinding is air bubbles in the pump (probably sounds like a combination of sand and small ball bearings, right?). this eventually goes away. run it for a couple minutes, watching to make sure that the pump doesnt run dry, top it off with more water if need be, and continue running. it should take anywhere from an hour to several hours to force the bubbles into the reservoir depending on the setup of your loop.

and I agree with Bex. we would like pictures.

[idkfa]

Thanks guys, photos attached. You couldn't get a more simple loop!

The noise was quite loud that why I havn't kept it running. I can honestly see no reason why what I've done would not work.

[zeropluszero]

I'd take it out of the case, put the rad vertical and try to get some more water in it.
These setups look so clean. Love them.

[Doglips]

try tipping your case on the front face to get air to rise to the top of your rad.

[idkfa]

I have tilted the case, even when the pump is on, I'm pretty sure its full. I will give a vertical mount a go.

A couple of other things I didn't mention, when the system is on as well as the grinding noise there is a constant double beep. Is this because the PSU is shorted with the paper clip or is there something else wrong? Also, I did not flush the rad, I have just connected all the parts and filled it, could this be the problem?

[kroks]

maybe the fitting thread is too long and is touching the pump impeller

[Soulwind]

I have tilted the case, even when the pump is on, I'm pretty sure its full. I will give a vertical mount a go.

A couple of other things I didn't mention, when the system is on as well as the grinding noise there is a constant double beep. Is this because the PSU is shorted with the paper clip or is there something else wrong? Also, I did not flush the rad, I have just connected all the parts and filled it, could this be the problem?

Wait a minute.

Where's the grinding noise coming from? (Can you isolate it? Pump, Rad, Block, Case Vibration, etc)

Where's the Beep coming from? (There's nothing on a normal pump that's going to Beep.)

Flushing the rad is needed to make sure all the manufacturing residues are removed so that they don't end up fouling your loop.

Unless you've actually got chunks of solder or something (highly unlikely) it wouldn't be making noise, just making your water dirty and contaminated (and maybe eventually gunking up the small fins in the water block)

[schoolslave]

Pretty sure you overtightened those bitspower fittings. The paint is worn away (as if you used pliers or something) and the o-ring is flat and visible, almost positive that is not good.

[idkfa]

All is running fine now:up: I ran the rad vertically for a while which must have helped the pump fill (odd though as Ive added no extra water). Its now been running 3 hours leak testing at the top of the case and all is good.

Next step is putting all the parts in, is it okay to rest the case on the side with the loop installed? Or do I need to install everything with the case upright?

I can't really flush the rad now as its been running for a while, I hope this doesnt come back to bite me in the ass!

[Kurz]

All is running fine now:up: I ran the rad vertically for a while which must have helped the pump fill (odd though as Ive added no extra water). Its now been running 3 hours leak testing at the top of the case and all is good.

Next step is putting all the parts in, is it okay to rest the case on the side with the loop installed? Or do I need to install everything with the case upright?

I can't really flush the rad now as its been running for a while, I hope this doesnt come back to bite me in the ass!

Then Dont let it bite you in the ass...
Do it right the first time.

[OC Maximus]

I can't really flush the rad now as its been running for a while, I hope this doesnt come back to bite me in the ass!
Why can't you flush the rad now? :shrug:

[idkfa]

Would draining the loop and refilling be enough then?

[Soulwind]

Maybe.

It really depends on how dirty the radiator was in the first place.

It would certainly be better than nothing though.

[gabe]

Excerpt from our QP series radiators page:

"Quality assurance: all radiators are ultrasonically cleaned to remove solder flux as well as pressure-tested for leaks."

Cleaning up your radiator at first installation isn't a necessity, and it is not recommended anywhere on our pages.

It is a procedure that user's may implement at their sole discretion as a precautionary measure to eliminate any possible human error that may have occured during our cleaning process.

For those who are interested, we just published a cleaning procedure here: http://www.swiftech.com/FAQs.aspx

[Conumdrum]

Thanks Gabe! Looking forward to being the beer guy next year at the XS party. Thanks to you and umm, the guy from Corsair.

Tell us more about this from your page please.

"What must be understood however, is that a copper plate treated with Tarn-X will immediately and very rapidly re-oxydize if the surface of the copper isn't treated (passivated). For this purpose, you must use a copper specific polishing compound; these can be easily procured online, or in household section of most supermarkets. The Brasso® brand is an excellent product for this purpose."

How do 'You' use this product to help prevent buildup? And after my cleaning below how would 'you' reapply the magic non-tarnish stuff. Your initial treatment surely didn't help on my block. Still, it wasn't clogged, just the expected black, seen it before.

For 'just your info', I'm happy with the XT.
Here is my XT with 6 M water changes and 17 months before my rebuild. Ketchup didn't help, with over 30 min of soaking. I had to revert to vinegar and did 3 soaks over 1.5 hours to get it to clean. I did nothing to the block except rinse it when I bought it. Looks all clean now though, just fine. I run distilled, proper amount of PHN Nuke, and a kill coil. Would using Hydrix (I hate to use it, supposedly it's just some sort of antifreeze) prevent this?

Before/after pics
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg49/Conumdrum_2007/PCrebuild%20060311/IMG_0856.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg49/Conumdrum_2007/PCrebuild%20060311/IMG_0863.jpg

[Phaseshift]

I had this sounds on my first loop, I had to siphon the tubes lol

[matari]

Gabe, is Pine-Sol safe in your micro res? \grins

[Little Man]

What tubing is that? Looks hell good.