Koolance 80mm Tube Res

[NaeKuh]

The 80mm tube res from koolance.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0680.jpg

Its modular in the fact you create it yourself.
The base is bought separate, as well as the tubes, as well as the middle section.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0682.jpg

I made mine so the return hits a melvin tube which has a kill coil to increase surface area contact:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0683.jpg

i may seal up the melvin tube.. add some coolant and dye so the tube looks radio active.


Can u guys tell i was bored when going though koolance? :rofl:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0684.jpg

And yes the sky is falling... im actually considering these:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0685.jpg

;)

Going to do a massive rebuild soon, but wanted to show u guys the Koolance 80mm Tube Res.

[matari]

Thanks for the pictures of the tube reservoir. How is the quality of the acrylic tube and POM base and top. I own the RP 402 X2 reservoir. On mine, they used a lot of lube to keep the o-ring in place and it gunked up the acrylic. I just had to clean it, but now, I cannot seem to get it back together without use similar process. Any ideas?

[NaeKuh]

Thanks for the pictures of the tube reservoir. How is the quality of the acrylic tube and POM base and top. I own the RP 402 X2 reservoir. On mine, they used a lot of lube to keep the o-ring in place and it gunked up the acrylic. I just had to clean it, but now, I cannot seem to get it back together without use similar process. Any ideas?

i havent opened them up yet... but im sure there are grooves which the oring fits into no?
In the case where the oring is streched out, that wont be good, as you will need to try to compress the ring back into the groove, and then seal it b4 it pops out...

And yes this can be a major pita, if you think that bay res is bad, imagine a full cover gpu block.

As fort the quality of the arylic.. its pretty good, but i wont be able to tell you for sure until ive used it live in my systems.

My systems are also very high flow, so im sure i'll put that res to a beating.

[matari]

The O-ring is over sized- and does not stay in the groove without some sort of lube.

[lowfat]

Although I haven't used my Koolance 80mm reservoir yet I've had one sitting around for a long time. It definitely is a fantastic reservoir. I like its footprint compared to all the skinny reservoirs out there.

[Aaronharmon]

The O-ring is over sized- and does not stay in the groove without some sort of lube.

I have several of the new Koolance res's too and posted a question about the size of the O-ring. Koolance responded that the O-rings were high quality material etc, etc. I just feel if they were a little meatier, they would stay in place better. They are very thin, almost like rubber bands. I had a EK multi-res too and it had a beefy O-ring on it with none of these issues. I'm not trying to slander Koolance here, I think the fix would be very simple. Just find a better suited O-ring to include in the kit.

[Martinm210]

I didn't know they made a top down tube or is that your own creation?

I like it..

[matari]

I did not see one on their website. Wonder the if the EK or BP one would work.

[Aaronharmon]

I did not see one on their website. Wonder the if the EK or BP one would work.

Nope wont work. The Koolance O-Ring sits in a small channel. I am 99.9% sure the EK O-ring would not work. Unfortunately, I got rid of the EK res when I bought the Koolance so I can't test the theory.

[Aaronharmon]

I didn't know they made a top down tube or is that your own creation?

I like it..

That's his own creation. The top is beefy enough to thread a fitting into the bottom side of the cap.

[ohms]

If you look at the instructions on the RP-402X2 (pretty sure it's the same as the 450X2) it says "Remove the original pump cover. Make sure the original o-ring stays seated on the pump. This o-ring is required for the RP-402X2".

The o-ring that comes with the RP series are only for when you use the cover plate when you are only using 1 pump. "The RP-402X2 is shipped with one pump side "blocked". Leave this in place with its screws and o-ring if you are only installing one pump".

[matari]

I am specifically talking about the two O-rings underneath the acrylic face plate. They are over sized or stretched out and do not stay in the grove without vaseline. Over time, the vaseline will spread across the acrylic face plate. I am looking for away to put the O-ring in place with little to no mess.

[NaeKuh]

I didn't know they made a top down tube or is that your own creation?

I like it..

u mean the melvin tube?

lol my own creation...

[MagisD]

Melvin tube...... For some reason I dont wana know how it got that name. I used bp ones from my old build there actually for that....I keep eyeing waiting for the plating to come off.

Sent from my X10a using Tapatalk

[barfastic]

yeah, i opened up my RP402X2 to insert the acrylic peice to make it serial loops, and i cant get the oring back in place either. im gonna try and freeze it in the fridge see what happens then... but its SUCH A PITA!

[RCG_Bex]

Let me know how it handles Naekuh, got 2x Koolance 450S with the 24v converter being delivered tomorrow and I can't decide which res / pump top I want to use!

~Bex

[Church]

Bex: Koolance's RP-452 X2? Maybe some other tops might squeeze out a bit more performance from pumps, but nothing will touch looks/space saving/loop configuration flexibility of that restop imho. You can check Martin's review of it for more details.

[PiLsY]

Barfastic has it spot on - fridge or freezer to shrink the o-ring slightly should make it much easier to get it to stay in the groove (unless its massively oversized).

I've got to say Koolance tube res's are the best ive used. The acrylic is massively thick but totally clear, no distortion at all. They cost a fortune here though, my PMP300 res top (on mcp355) cost nearly £60 all in. The BP res's are a close second but you get some visual distortion and of course not modular...

[Koolance]

Our current acrylic reservoir tubes are specially made. They should be very clear, smooth, and stronger than the typical manufacturing method. This does increase their cost somewhat, though.

The o-rings on larger parts are looser by design. I agree, they can be a pain to make sure they're aligned when you're assembling everything. I've done a couple where I noticed the o-ring had a lobe sticking out on one side, and I needed to open it and re-tighten. I believe larger o-rings are used there because they need to expand/contract more during normal temperature swings than smaller o-rings like nozzle collars.

We use o-ring oil on several products to keep the o-ring in the groove for assembly. It assists in preventing damage from getting cut, squeezed, or otherwise warped when being assembled, and can help form a better seal since the o-ring is allowed to relax in its groove during this process. You can wipe any access grease off where it's visible on an acrylic piece, but I would recommend leaving it in the areas intended. Aside from one poster I saw claim it "fogged the acrylic", I've not seen other instances of the oil causing any issues. It certainly won't react with our acrylic; we've been using it this way for over 4 years.

Tim

[matari]

It does not fog up, but the lube does spread from the O-ring area. Here is a picture of the amount of lube placed around the O-ring. Not the best quality, but you should be to understand what I am having issues with.

http://i54.tinypic.com/25j9mbb.jpg

Where can I find O-ring lube? Vaseline is simply too messy to use. Maybe I can make work with O-ring lube. The oversized O-ring prevents need for over tightening of the acrylic face plate to prevent leaking. Over tightening of the acrylic face plate can cause it to crack. Other companies are finding out the hard way.

[NaeKuh]

Our current acrylic reservoir tubes are specially made. They should be very clear, smooth, and stronger than the typical manufacturing method. This does increase their cost somewhat, though.

The o-rings on larger parts are looser by design. I agree, they can be a pain to make sure they're aligned when you're assembling everything. I've done a couple where I noticed the o-ring had a lobe sticking out on one side, and I needed to open it and re-tighten. I believe larger o-rings are used there because they need to expand/contract more during normal temperature swings than smaller o-rings like nozzle collars.

We use o-ring oil on several products to keep the o-ring in the groove for assembly. It assists in preventing damage from getting cut, squeezed, or otherwise warped when being assembled, and can help form a better seal since the o-ring is allowed to relax in its groove during this process. You can wipe any access grease off where it's visible on an acrylic piece, but I would recommend leaving it in the areas intended. Aside from one poster I saw claim it "fogged the acrylic", I've not seen other instances of the oil causing any issues. It certainly won't react with our acrylic; we've been using it this way for over 4 years.

Tim

The Oring would fall out once in a while, but they would go right back into the grooves.

I didnt see this as any type of problem.

The Res's are beautiful.
I mean my pictures of mass thread destruction cant portray the real quality in these res's.

Also You guys may think there more expensive then per say eK, or Bitspower, but there not.

http://www.koolance.com/water-cooling/default.php?cPath=57_127

22 for the base...
10-23 dollars for the tube
11 dollars for the top

This is the basic tube... which translates to about 56 dollars for the largest size.

Now comparing an standard tube res, over a koolance tube res, at that price... its a no brainer..
Add the fact u sell them as completely modular on top, and replacement parts are easy as pie to get, so is upgrades..

LOL...

Tim u guys won this one... I wish i honestly got these tubes sooner.

[Aaronharmon]

They are great. I have 3 of them to be honest; two to the smaller diameter ones and one of the 80's. They are all very nice and very well made.

The only issue I have had is with the O-ring rolling and bulging and getting pinched etc. I have had to watch very closely for leaks which can be very slow and difficult to detect early in the build. Draining, tearing down a res and refilling a system simply to reseat an O-ring is a real PITA.

@Koolance

If they need lube to hold the O-ring in place, no offence, but why the hell isn't a little included. I believe that vasoline will degrade O-rings over time, correct? Wouldn't a water based lubricant like KY jelly or Astroglide be a better alternative?

The best way that I have found to assemble them is to hold the res straight up and down, letting gravity hold the O-ring in the channel while you very slowly, thread the pieces together. I have not tried a lubricant, but I think it would work well. I will definitely be trying this in build I am currently working on.

@NaeKuh

I agree they are a very good value. I love that I can buy all the pieces separately. The modular aspect adds so much versatility and Koolance was very creative with regards to the options. You can create some pretty unique looks mixxing and matching parts to suite your needs.

Aaron

[PiLsY]

Naekuh - sadly £50 is as cheap as you can make it in the UK. £10 top, £17.50 120mm tube, £23 base. Exporting from the US to the UK sucks :(.

The BP/EK tube res's run around £25 - £35 small to large by comparison.

I still say its worth it given the quality, but at first glance its a big difference.

[NaeKuh]

I still say its worth it given the quality, but at first glance its a big difference.

u guys got VAT on top, which sucks compared to any sales tax we got here. :rofl:

More Pictures:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0697.jpg

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0698.jpg

LOLZ... says do not use Alcohol:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0701.jpg

And the More Melvin Tube shots.. :P
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p73/aigomorla/Koolance/RES/IMG_0700.jpg

You can see the wash directly over the coils.


The melvin tube got me thinking... you could technically make this unit into a micro Bong cooler, provided u used enough attachments.

[Koolance]

It does not fog up, but the lube does spread from the O-ring area. Here is a picture of the amount of lube placed around the O-ring. Not the best quality, but you should be to understand what I am having issues with.

http://i54.tinypic.com/25j9mbb.jpg

Where can I find O-ring lube? Vaseline is simply too messy to use. Maybe I can make work with O-ring lube. The oversized O-ring prevents need for over tightening of the acrylic face plate to prevent leaking. Over tightening of the acrylic face plate can cause it to crack. Other companies are finding out the hard way.

Those oil lines are basically hidden behind the aluminum faceplate on our RP-402/452X2 (and could be wiped off). You might have a little oil visible when assembled, but I wouldn't consider it excessive based on the picture. This is also what our FC video and motherboard blocks should look like if you opened them. I would have to see it assembled with the front faceplate to tell, though.

We source the o-ring oil in Korea. I think an equivalent from a hardware store is fine as long as it's safe for use with EPDM rubber (not likely a problem), acrylic, and acetal.


If they need lube to hold the O-ring in place, no offence, but why the hell isn't a little included. I believe that vasoline will degrade O-rings over time, correct? Wouldn't a water based lubricant like KY jelly or Astroglide be a better alternative?

Our cylindrical reservoirs and smaller fittings don't use the oil on the o-rings. We normally use it for complex o-ring grooves which don't keep the o-ring in a circular shape. The tank grooves are also wider, so I'm not sure if it would help in this case. Like some of you, I prefer to flip the reservoir upside-down while tightening so the o-ring sits in the groove. You still have to keep an eye on it during assembly, though (as really should be done with any thread, regardless of how much movement the o-ring has).

Tim

[matari]

Tim,

I would have never known that you used lube to hold the O-ring in place if it were not on the acrylic outside the Alu face plate area. Trying to whipe it off just makes it worse. Much easier to soak it in wurm water for a few hours and then whipe :D

Can you give me the specs on the size of the O-ring? maybe I can try to get another one or two.

BTW, that tube reservoir is my next reservoir that I will get. Wonder if the 80mm version will fit in my Corsair Obsidian 800D by the motherboard and drive bays.

[Aaronharmon]

I am putting it (the 80) in a TJ07 that I am building. It is going slow though. Real life is getting in the way.