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Rubycon
02-28-2011, 06:34 AM
Anyone use a car radiator or evaporator coil from a central AC unit for a radiator before? How would it compare to something like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12551/ex-rad-210/Watercool_MO-RA3_9_x_140mm_PRO_Extreme_Radiator_-_Black_Powder_Coat_22120.html?tl=g30c95s667#blank

NaeKuh
02-28-2011, 10:51 AM
Anyone use a car radiator or evaporator coil from a central AC unit for a radiator before? How would it compare to something like this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12551/ex-rad-210/Watercool_MO-RA3_9_x_140mm_PRO_Extreme_Radiator_-_Black_Powder_Coat_22120.html?tl=g30c95s667#blank

ultimately i want to go on a cooling sump + offsite radiator.

Meaning.. have a 10-15 gallon tank on a short loop fed to a Koyo Pure Copper Racing radiator. And then have the tank feed each of my loops independantly.

That Mora would not get anywhere near close to a Koyo.

That being said, if your going to venture into it, go with a copper car rad, as its not an evaporator condensor style like the mora, and would be a lot more efficient @ the flow rate range we use.

Rubycon
02-28-2011, 11:04 AM
If you do a sump why not recirculate sump water through an inline chiller and choose a target water temp just above the dewpoint. (or use an enthalpy controller?) A 1hp Neslab will cool quite a bit of Xeons and 580GTXs in SLI! :D

Car radiators are fairly large and cheap and can cool 50+ kW. Not sure how they work with low flow.

Idea here was to mount the rad in a box about two inches from one side so there would be room to insert a disposable furnace filter (to keep dust down) and further down the box have a small squirrel cage blower say running up to 1500CFM (but variable speed!) and of course the exhaust side venting away from the work area. This would be bolted to a plate attached firmly to a deckplate.

Basically it would be like a horizontal flow air handler. Target opening size close to twenty by twenty inches. With a plenum and a squirrel cage fan mounting expensive 140mm fans to the radiator or shroud is unnecessary and the airflow to noise ratio would be much better.

NaeKuh
02-28-2011, 11:08 AM
If you do a sump why not recirculate sump water through an inline chiller and choose a target water temp just above the dewpoint. (or use an enthalpy controller?) A 1hp Neslab will cool quite a bit of Xeons and 580GTXs in SLI! :D.

the power cost @ idle is too costly.

Well not unless i end up installing the 5kw solar array @ my house by this year like i planned.

But even then, having a unit eat up 200-300W @ idle on just your cooling end, is not worth the ends.

Vs, having a 3amp car fan @ 12V = 36W and a 5.3Amp Industry pumps on a 5/8 tubing feeding the tank + rad.

If i want to get crazy and OCD, i can even throw in a inline UV steralizer, and a Ehiem Canister filter with carbon to keep the water super clean!

Rubycon
02-28-2011, 11:28 AM
the power cost @ idle is too costly.

Well not unless i end up installing the 5kw solar array @ my house by this year like i planned.

But even then, having a unit eat up 200-300W @ idle on just your cooling end, is not worth the ends.

Vs, having a 3amp car fan @ 12V = 36W and a 5.3Amp Industry pumps on a 5/8 tubing feeding the tank + rad.

If i want to get crazy and OCD, i can even throw in a inline UV steralizer, and a Ehiem Canister filter with carbon to keep the water super clean!

UV filters are for microbial control where chemical pollution is unacceptable. (i.e. potable water sterilization or water that supports marine life).

Granular Activated Carbon (GAC) is a powerful adsorbent that can remove lots of things dissolved in your coolant - including dye! For continuous coolant polishing a spun polyester filter cartridge with a 1-5 micron rating is plenty to keep the FOD out of your blocks. ;)

If you insulate your sump your chiller only runs when there is demand. Unless your room is warm your idle load will be handled by the coolth in the mass of the amount of basin water. Chiller compressor will only run very intermittently. Even at heavy load (if planned accordingly) the compressor will still have a fairly short duty cycle - four starts per 60 minutes is a good goal)

Also if you're doing a sump that's going to be a distance from your PC you would want at least 3/4" or even 1" ID hose or pipe. ;)

OldChap
02-28-2011, 11:29 AM
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=258475 and I just started one too http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=267018

Should have it running in a week or two then we will see about performance

Rubycon
02-28-2011, 05:44 PM
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=258475 and I just started one too http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=267018

Should have it running in a week or two then we will see about performance

Neat stuff. :) Central water cooling is a good idea especially when you're dealing with multiple computers.