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recent
02-27-2011, 06:43 PM
Hi, i'm about to do my first watercooling system, so i need youre advice :) ?
For start, i'm only planning to watercool cpu and mobo with 3 x 120 mm rad in Corsair 800D
And i would like to use clear 1/2" pipe.

Check ower what i'm planning to get and let's see what else do i need or can use?

CPU - Watercool HEATKILLER® CPU Rev3.0 link (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php? main_page=product_info&cPath=59_498_495&products_id=29058) order with backplate & "1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID Tube"
CHIPSET - EK-FB KIT EVGA X58 Full Board link (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_241_589&products_id=25278) order with "1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID Tube"
RADIATOR - Black Ice® SR1 360 Radiator link (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_200&products_id=25926) order with "1/2 OD"
PUMP - Swiftech MCP655™ Series 12 VDC link (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_201&products_id=28303)
RESERV - XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir ( Ball Window) link (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_665&products_id=22698) order with "1/2" Barb for 1/2" ID Tube"
PIPE - PrimoFlex Pro LRT Clear Tubing -1/2in. ID X 3/4in. OD link (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_241_589&products_id=25278) order 10 feet
FITTINGS - EK High Flow Fitting G 1/4 Thread - 1/2" Barb link (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_365&products_id=21945) order 12 pcs, 10 needed or can i use some other fittings, to avoid hose clamps with this pipe or should i use some other pipe ?
HOSE CLAMPS - Primochill Metal Reusable Hose Clamp [13mm, 1/2" OD] - Black link (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_953_954&products_id=24886) order 12 pcs, 10 needed or should i use something different ?

Ok, so what kind of liquid i should use ? i would like to use some clear and then add nice blue color with UV ? if thats possible.
And then, do i need to make somekinda fill and empty hoses ?
Do i need to use T or how should it be easyer ?

And where do i get longer bolts for adding the radiator to my 800D uppercase with fans.. i'm thinking of 3 fans. (fat fans or small ones ?)

And what else i am forgetting about ?

Conumdrum
02-27-2011, 08:00 PM
Distilled water and a biocide. Petra's PHN Nuke.

You don't want any odities in the liquid. Need proof posts? Buy colored tubing.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=260835
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4544766&postcount=1

recent
02-27-2011, 08:22 PM
Distilled water and a biocide. Petra's PHN Nuke.

You don't want any odities in the liquid. Need proof posts? Buy colored tubing.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=260835
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showpost.php?p=4544766&postcount=1

ok, thank you man, i will start looking for colored tubeing!

but, what is biocide ? and should i put distilled water half/half with biocide ? and then add drops of Petras ?

Blackstare
02-27-2011, 09:20 PM
The PHN Nuke IS the biocide, it prevents the grow of algae, you only need a couple of drops in your loop.

Conumdrum
02-28-2011, 12:44 AM
PHN Nuke has a label on the side. Your welcome to read it. Just a few drops, a bottle lasts a LONG time.

Buy distilled water at Walgreens/SVC pharmacy. Expensive. Maybe $1.20 a gallon, OMG. And a few drops of biocide.

Maybe you should read my well maintained NOOB WC link.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6489396&postcount=3

And Primochill LRT is very good tubing.

Johnny87au
02-28-2011, 12:46 AM
Pt nuke + distilled, everything else looks quite good, I'd ditch the SR1 as it really shines with around 600-800RPM fans, maby something like a PA or XSPC 360 with some gt-15's would be ideal..

jmn2519
02-28-2011, 06:23 AM
Is PT Nuke better than going with a killcoil?

zalbard
02-28-2011, 06:25 AM
Killcoil is better. Safer for sure.

theseeker
02-28-2011, 06:54 AM
EK will not warrant their blocks if you use PT Nuke.

recent
03-01-2011, 12:35 AM
EK will not warrant their blocks if you use PT Nuke.

Since i need to use EK waterblocks, then i should only use destilled water ?


PHN Nuke has a label on the side. Your welcome to read it. Just a few drops, a bottle lasts a LONG time.

Buy distilled water at Walgreens/SVC pharmacy. Expensive. Maybe $1.20 a gallon, OMG. And a few drops of biocide.

Maybe you should read my well maintained NOOB WC link.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6489396&postcount=3

And Primochill LRT is very good tubing.

i will do that ! nice reading !

Conumdrum
03-01-2011, 01:50 AM
LOL, forget what Eddie said. It's not an issue. It was blown way out of proportion. Have you YOURSELF gone to EK and read the info yourself? Your an consumer, this IS the internet. You believe all the outdated, non-up do date stuff people think they know?

EK direct.......... theseeker is just sponging from old posts, not doing the work.
The HF block warrenty. Copied RIGHT now from the site.
WARRANTY:
Our products are warranted against defects in materials or workmanship for a period of 24 months beginning from the date of delivery to the final user. During
this period, products will be repaired or have parts replaced at our discretion provided that: (I) the product is returned to the agent from whom it was
purchased; (II) the product has been purchased by an end user and has not used for commercial purposes; (III) the product has not been misused, handled
carelessly, or used in a manner other than in accordance with the instructions provided describing its installation and proper use. This warranty does not confer
rights other than those expressly set out above and does not cover any claims for consequential loss or damage. This warranty is offered as an extra benefit and
does not affect your statutory rights as a consumer. This warranty is voided if the product comes in contact with aggressive UV additives.

PHN or PT Nuke is NOT a UV additive. It is in the warrenty to prevent clogged up block issues from using other strange liquids. I saw Petra and Eddie talk it out, besides the MASSIVE fallout here from Eddies first idea. He just typed it really bad. Just protecting his product from silly misinformed folks.

Tackleberry
03-01-2011, 06:09 AM
EK will not warrant their blocks if you use PT Nuke.

that was issue for reservoirs not for blocks.
different material is in use.
dont pump

Tackleberry
03-01-2011, 06:17 AM
Is PT Nuke better than going with a killcoil?

Been looking into better option and came accross this statement on other forum.
quote:
The truth about using Silver Kill Coils and distilled water only:

"kill" coils are biocide replacement, they offer no corresion resistance.

Distilled water is used as ppl think it stays non-conductive and so will limit galvanic corrosion - the problem is, once the distilled water is in the loop and in contact with all the waterblocks, tubing and radiator channels, it quickly becomes conductive again.

While most metals used in waterloops these days are very close on the galvanic scale, the very use of silver kill coils can actually be the main cause of galvanic corrosion to occur in modern waterloops.

The problem:
Modern waterloops use copper, nickel plated copper and nickel plated brass components, and the anodic index of those metals are all within the safe 0.15V (they're actually close to 0.05V) which basically stops galvanic corrosion.

The introduction of the silver kill coil in the loop is the biggest problem and IMHO the cause of the corrosion that is occurring in some ppls loops. Basically, once you add silver to the water loop, it decreases the galvanic compatibility just enough to allow galvanic corrosion to occur.

Basically, the difference between the anodic index of the silver and the other metal components in the loop are just over the safe point and is now around 0.20V-0.25V - which is just enough for galvanic corrosion to start in extreme environments (ie. inside a water loop).

So by only using distilled water, which does not stop corrosion, and then introducing the silver, you are in fact creating an environment where galvanic corrosion can occur and since the liquid in the loop is just distilled water, there is nothing to stop it.

Now, lots of different data---> only one truth, which is...?

schoolslave
03-01-2011, 06:39 AM
Been looking into better option and came accross this statement on other forum.
quote:
The truth about using Silver Kill Coils and distilled water only:

"kill" coils are biocide replacement, they offer no corresion resistance.

Distilled water is used as ppl think it stays non-conductive and so will limit galvanic corrosion - the problem is, once the distilled water is in the loop and in contact with all the waterblocks, tubing and radiator channels, it quickly becomes conductive again.

While most metals used in waterloops these days are very close on the galvanic scale, the very use of silver kill coils can actually be the main cause of galvanic corrosion to occur in modern waterloops.

The problem:
Modern waterloops use copper, nickel plated copper and nickel plated brass components, and the anodic index of those metals are all within the safe 0.15V (they're actually close to 0.05V) which basically stops galvanic corrosion.

The introduction of the silver kill coil in the loop is the biggest problem and IMHO the cause of the corrosion that is occurring in some ppls loops. Basically, once you add silver to the water loop, it decreases the galvanic compatibility just enough to allow galvanic corrosion to occur.

Basically, the difference between the anodic index of the silver and the other metal components in the loop are just over the safe point and is now around 0.20V-0.25V - which is just enough for galvanic corrosion to start in extreme environments (ie. inside a water loop).

So by only using distilled water, which does not stop corrosion, and then introducing the silver, you are in fact creating an environment where galvanic corrosion can occur and since the liquid in the loop is just distilled water, there is nothing to stop it.

Now, lots of different data---> only one truth, which is...?

Pure silver should not corrode. Chem 110 :up:

theseeker
03-01-2011, 07:38 AM
LOL, forget what Eddie said. It's not an issue. It was blown way out of proportion. Have you YOURSELF gone to EK and read the info yourself? Your an consumer, this IS the internet. You believe all the outdated, non-up do date stuff people think they know?

EK direct.......... theseeker is just sponging from old posts, not doing the work.
The HF block warrenty. Copied RIGHT now from the site.
WARRANTY:
Our products are warranted against defects in materials or workmanship for a period of 24 months beginning from the date of delivery to the final user. During
this period, products will be repaired or have parts replaced at our discretion provided that: (I) the product is returned to the agent from whom it was
purchased; (II) the product has been purchased by an end user and has not used for commercial purposes; (III) the product has not been misused, handled
carelessly, or used in a manner other than in accordance with the instructions provided describing its installation and proper use. This warranty does not confer
rights other than those expressly set out above and does not cover any claims for consequential loss or damage. This warranty is offered as an extra benefit and
does not affect your statutory rights as a consumer. This warranty is voided if the product comes in contact with aggressive UV additives.

PHN or PT Nuke is NOT a UV additive. It is in the warrenty to prevent clogged up block issues from using other strange liquids. I saw Petra and Eddie talk it out, besides the MASSIVE fallout here from Eddies first idea. He just typed it really bad. Just protecting his product from silly misinformed folks.


that was issue for reservoirs not for blocks.
different material is in use.
dont pump

I found this from a link on their site http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/water-cooling/33772-water-cooling-guide-beginners.html#post97420 read it for yourself.

I was a little concerned as my nickel blocks did this....

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v421/theseekeroffun/Madness%20Continued/DSC03628.jpg

Since I am using EK blocks for my new build, I want to make sure this does not happen again.

I was trying to find out what EK does not recommend.

theseeker
03-01-2011, 03:32 PM
Not to hijack the OP's thread, but I was expecting some input.

Clunk
03-01-2011, 04:02 PM
Not to hijack the OP's thread, but I was expecting some input.

Seems to have been sorted, the info in the link has been updated, it was a little out of date. :up:

Panthols
03-01-2011, 04:14 PM
Considering Eddy said he was going to remove the news post referencing pt nuke, there is no mention of it anywhere on his site, and it was only in reference to the acrylic cylinder reservoirs, I don't think that the issue applies to anything mentioned here.

There are a lot of people that have been using killcoils with pure copper and nickel plated blocks for a long time now that have not shown any corrosion issues. I would even go out on a limb here and say that the majority of the issues caused by people assuming that "purified" water is the same as distilled, flushing / cleaning with tap water without rinsing with distilled, or not thoroughly cleaning their components before they use them (not flushing their radiators). If you rinse everything with distilled, clean out your radiator before use and run pure distilled water with a killcoil, you should not have any problems.

theseeker
03-01-2011, 04:47 PM
Seems to have been sorted, the info in the link has been updated, it was a little out of date. :up:

Clunk, thank you for the clarification. I never used PT Nuke, I was trying to find out if "any" additives would have caused what you see in my pic. I used Feser Base and I assume that caused the nickel plating to erode. Just a guess.


Considering Eddy said he was going to remove the news post referencing pt nuke, there is no mention of it anywhere on his site, and it was only in reference to the acrylic cylinder reservoirs, I don't think that the issue applies to anything mentioned here.

There are a lot of people that have been using killcoils with pure copper and nickel plated blocks for a long time now that have not shown any corrosion issues. I would even go out on a limb here and say that the majority of the issues caused by people assuming that "purified" water is the same as distilled, flushing / cleaning with tap water without rinsing with distilled, or not thoroughly cleaning their components before they use them (not flushing their radiators). If you rinse everything with distilled, clean out your radiator before use and run pure distilled water with a killcoil, you should not have any problems.

My last loop had six True Silver BP fittings and they show no corrosion at all. My H20 is as pure as you can get it. I know the source because I own the source. This H20 is so pure that it is not recommended to drink, as it has no minerals! The OP and I have one thing in common, we are looking for answers regarding the optimal H20. IMO, there is nothing better than pure demineralized H20.

As previously stated, I believe my problem was the Feser Base fluid. I carefully followed the directions and the only problem I had was with the nickel blocks. My copper block was clean, the rad was clean and the pump and res had no residue at all. I am just looking for solutions, answers and no desire for any flaming.

Sorry OP, I hope this will help both of us.